HellfireJack

FYI: Mop -n- Glo is actually an acrylic. Gum tragicanth is a gum used for slicking not finishing. I wouldn't use plain oil a finish really. They're mostly for conditioning leather. Hope that helps you both. In order of effectiveness against moisture I would say beeswax then acrylic then lacquer. It's all going to rub off eventually though. I would use a mix of 50/50 beeswax/neatsfoot oil by weight. It's on the forum here over and over again. If I didn't have that then probably a few very thin coats of 50/50 resolene/water and If I didn't have that either I would go with a few very thin coats of wyosheen.

I keep forgetting to start buying these. So much to do so little time. GoodsJapan lists them under shaped hole punches. Tandy also sells a multi-punch set but it doesn't have as many shapes as GoodsJapan.

LOL! Remember the "Ease of learning" is completely implied here as neither person speaking about the tangleboss has any actual practical experience with it. You might find out it's actually easier to use a normal swivel knife. It would be like me saying: "A japanese hand saw is inferior to a basic handsaw based on the time it takes to learn to properly use one". If I had no experience with either that is. Trust me I totally get it. I just find it funny. It's almost like a bad commercial. Perhaps there's a Black River Laser template that might help?

O_o inferior swivel knife. LOL.

I believe Stohlman advises the use of a french edger, a steady hand, and a bit of practice.

Have you tried emailing them?

You could but you cannot finish the piece until it's all done and you'll have to wet the entire piece each time you work on it and with each consecutive wetting you're going to lose the crispness of your earlier work. If it were me I would make them separate pieces that you can then sew on like actual badges. Then you can work on, and finish, each piece in it's own time without fear.

50/50 beeswax and neatsfoot oil by volume will give you what you want. You still have to buff beforehand though. It's mentioned several times on this forum.

CO2 seems to be working fine so far. I have no complaints at all. Maybe if I increase my production I'll consider going to a larger system. I never used an nelspot 007. A friend of mine had one though. How about the NSG Splatmaster? Just as old and twice as ugly. It was a green plastic handgun looking monstrosity that was front fed via tube and cocked by pressing a plastic piston on the back of the marker. I played a few games with those things. Man they sucked.

One big problem with using a hand setter is when the post stands too proud of the leather. If too much post is showing it probably wont set right. In that case use a smaller snap. Inversely If you don't have enough of the post showing you'll have a problem setting that as well. In that case skive the leather down around the hole with a safety beveller or a french edger. Speaking of the hole, make sure to use the right size hole for the rivet post. The post should fit snugly with no play. If the hole is too big the post will bend when you try to set it. Don't try to bash it into place in one shot. Use multiple taps. In the video mentioned above you'll see Hurst hit the setter perpendicular to the anvil on the first one or two strikes and then he'll do many small taps angling the setter around post. You don't really need to do the angled taps. Just make sure the post curls down on itself straight. The setter is designed to do just that as long as it is perpendicular to the anvil face. If you hit it too hard you'll deform either the cap or base which may not effect the snap mechanism but will surely effect the look of the snap itself.

Sounds like you're being too heavy handed with the razor knife to me. It takes almost no downward force to cut leather with a razor sharp knife. Your first cut should be light and just score the leather with the knife. You then have a path for the razor to follow. Increase the pressure slightly and make 3 or 4 cuts to finish it off all the way through. Straight stamping just takes practice. I would recommend the late Paul Burnett's books on designing with stamping tools if you're looking for advice to improve border stamping when you can afford it. You can still get them from his website. http://paintingcow.com/content/index.php/publications/home_study_courses/designing_with_stamping_tools/

You can make soy milk at home. Here are some instructions. Been pondering making my own tofu. http://www.justhungr...part-1-soy-milk I can't imagine that this is waterproof though, so widespread use as a top finish isn't likely. If it were your friend would have probably already been using it as such. But could it replace gum of tragicanth? i.e. Can you die the edge through it? Does it work better than saddle soap as a burnishing agent? So many questions. hehe

Thanks for the input Stella. I already knew not to let the tank lay on it's side while in use. Right now it's chained to the leg of my workbench I'm considering making a stand for it. So far I've only used it to practice with on scrap and I have to say I LOVE it. There's no way I'll go back to using daubers to apply dies and finishes. At my current amount of usage I don't think I'll ever have to worry about freezing the guages. I actually thought that if I didn't like how CO2 worked with airbrushing then I'd use it for a home kegerator system.

Not entirely. It depends on the pony. If you have a small pony like one of the under the leg models then yes, you can only stitch flat pieces with it. If you have a larger pony then things will be different. In the best case scenario you'll have a form for whatever it is that you're making. You would then put the piece, form and all, into the pony and stitch it all together and remove the form later. If you don't have a large pony or a nice wide jaw stitching clam then I would do as Aaron suggests. Sometimes you just have to improvise.

I would just turn on compatibility for all sites if I were you. Here's a basic how-to. http://www.craigbailey.net/ie8-compatibility-view-settings-set-for-all-sites/

Haha My first marker was a Sheridan PGP. That or a P68 was my only real choice back then. A few years later the SL-68 became really popular along with some other "long ball" pump action markers. Then finally some decent semi-autos hit the market. The Autococker, and the Automag were game changers. All the other semi-autos were either garbage or took a 5 pound pull to release the trigger. Then came the days of spray and pray. LOL. Ahhh... the good ol' days.

Yep you are correct. I tend to think along the lines when I used to manage a field. They didn't have regulators so much as just a means to stop CO2 from dumping through the gun. The electro-numatic markers they use today do have regulators. The best you got before those came around was the Autococker which I would say was a (PITA) regulator in itself And naturally any marker running nitrogen is going to need a regulator because you can't be shooting paint at 3000 psi. But suffice it to say any marker that can dump CO2 out it's barrel when held in the wrong position doesn't have a regulator that's functioning.

TwinOaks, There is zero difference between releasing CO2 from a tank and releasing air from an air compressor as far as the Joule-Thompson effect goes. As long as it comes out at the same pressure the temps will be the same. Naturally I could tip the tank and allow liquid CO2 to course out (the snow from a paintball marker is usually caused by liquid CO2 hitting the air by the way) but then that's not the Joule-Thompson effect cooling anything. Paintball guns don't have a regulator. The regulator will not allow it to release quickly. This means the tank and hose will only change temps by a degree or two at most. I used to manage a paintball field in MN. I was an air-smith for numerous years. I've ran the airbrush for more than 5 minutes straight with little cooling of either the airbrush, the hose, or the tank. We're talking unnoticeable. I even tested with straight water in the cup. There is no freezing at all.

Love the seat. Great work. The heartagram isn't really a pagan symbol. it's just a logo for a band. Bam Margera from Jackass fame also uses it. The creator of the symbol, front man from the band HIM, gave him partial copyright to use it.

I just purchased my first airbrush. I needed it to be as quiet as possible and also be as portable as possible so I decided to power it with CO2. It took me some digging to figure out what I actually needed so I figured I'd post everything here in case others were interested in the same. I purchased everything online except for a couple of adapters. The airbrush is a Badger 155 Anthem. It's a double action with internal mixing bottom feed. It says it can spray everything. It cost me about 80 dollars. The tank and regulator were both purchased from a brew store. It's a 5 lb tank and it cost about 60 US. The regulator cost about 50 US. The tank cost about 20 US to fill. I hear you can also do exchanges at some brew stores as well. I have links below to exactly what I purchased. http://www.beveragef...ks/co2/C5.shtml http://www.beveragef...regulator.shtml After that I only needed to remove the brass hose fitting at the bottom of the regulator and replace it with a male to male compression fitting that I purchased for 3 bucks at my local hardware store. That's about it. For less than 200 US I have a whisper quiet 100% portable and electricity free airbrush set up. The only thing I plan to add is a quick connect for the airbrush so I can snap it on and off easier.

Technically I learned of them here after re-inventing the wheel. I had no idea there was such a thing as a casing box at the time and I wasn't happy with the way.the bag/fridge method left the leather after the first day. I actually looked up how to build a humidor on Instructables.com and thought I'd give it a shot for leather. The only thing I changed was adding a thin strip of leather along the lid's edge to act as a gasket to help seal it air tight when closed. Then afterwards I learned that I just built a casing box. I put a damp sponge in to help maintain the moisture content and I also put in some baking soda in a dixie cup to help kill any mold growth. Haven't had a problem with mold at all. I was told here that you could just sit it out open in the sun as well to kill any mold but baking soda works fine. I'm more of a hobbiest in leather right now as I learn more and more so I only use it when I fully case a piece of leather overnight or when I time things poorly and realize I have to actually sleep at night and can't finish something I've started. I assume that the "cardboard" feel I'm talking about is caused by the wax and oil in the leather cooling and thickening and stiffening the leather. Of course that could all just be in my head as well. All I know is that I don't like the way leather feels when it comes out of the fridge so much that I went to all the trouble to make the humidor. Yep, it's just a round top pine chest that I picked up at the hobby store. I purchased a couple of pounds of wax and melted it and brushed it thickly on the inside (and still had a pound and a half left over) to seal all of the cracks and added the leather lid gasket mentioned above. I don't see why you couldn't use a cooler as long as it seals air tight.

Bob Park has a stickied topic on casing leather here already. http://leatherworker...showtopic=19121 I use a casing box. Mine is just a simple wax sealed chest with a source of moisture. (Wet sponge in a bowl). I would consider it an alternative to the plastic bag/fridge method. It's just a way to store a piece of leather and maintain it's moisture content while working on it.. To me the bag/fridge method makes the leather feel like cardboard whereas the casing box doesn't. How you case really depends on what you're doing. Or at least that's what some people believe. If you're just stamping designs you don't need the leather to be wet through and through. You can quick case it. (Damp sponge to the grain side only). If you're carving, it should be fully cased. (Wet through getting all of the fibers moist. Most of it is just personal preference though. Some people fully case no matter what.

I just got a badger 155 myself. I'm going to power it with CO2 though so the setup will be completely portable. I just got the tank and regulator last night and was planning to post pictures tomorrow once it was tank was all filled and fully operational. I still need a small adapter or quick connect. Then I just need to learn to airbrush!!

That's a great looking bag. I normally don't care much for horsey/cowboy stuff but that looks fantastic.

If you used boiling water then you probably did very little research into cuir boulli other than sticking a piece of leather into boiling water. The tutorials and discussions on cuir boulli out on the interenet will almost always reference specific temperatures and if they don't then it's because it's already understood what method is being used. The name could have NOTHING to do with water as there is speculation that oil or wax may have been used histoically. Note that you can't boil either of these items because they will flash and burn long before they ever would boil but we still have historic terms like "boiling oil" and "wax boiling". We know today that water boils at 212° F. Different cultures historically also have different ideas of what boiling actually means so the term boiling can be applied to temperatures much lower than that. Water begins to bubble as low as 155°F. This, for some people, is considered boiling water and IS within the range people use today for cuir boulli. Some people would also bring water to a boil while doing other things, (no one likes to sit and watch while water heats up) and then remove it from the heat source and let it cool to the needed temperature. All of these could be sources for the use of the term boil in cuir boulli. It's just a term used for a process people are trying to recreate. Asking people for evidence that the desired results could come from a method that no one other than you are talking about is pointless. We may as well demand you show historic evidence that cuir boulli " is leather immersed in water until bubbles start coming out of the leather...which looks like boiling" as you've suggested. Neither is going ot happen. Now back to the topic at hand. I've been wondering about the glue that is being suggested. Is PVA glue being used for a specific reason? You may want to try a more natural glue rather than a synthetic. I've found some recipes for glue using gums or gelatins that may give better success for this. http://www.make-stuff.com/formulas_&_remedies/miscellaneous_formulas/glue.html I would try the basic waterproof glue or the gum arabic glue and dliute them down by degrees.