HellfireJack

The setter is a solid piece of steel that can be hit multiple times to form the rivet head. They will probably be putting more force than that press can in a single blow. You effectively deform the rivet a little at a time. The problem with using hand tools to set hardware isn't generally too little force but rather too much force and often times in the wrong direction to set the hardware properly. I've seen those presses at Tandy and they don't look like they'd be strong enough to deform copper. With a press you can only ever achieve the max force its rated for and once you reach that and it fails to deform you don't have much of an option. I can't say for sure but I would be surprised if that Crafttool press could put out more than a few hundred pounds of force. I could be wrong. You'd have to contact Crafttool to truly find out but I'm sure if it was anywhere near a half ton it would say it in the features. The 1/2 ton press is fairly small. I can crush a #9 rivet with a little work using one though. You want to be able to do the work with as little effort as possible if you're going to be doing a lot of them. I would not want to use a 1/2 ton on multiple rivets every day. The more force the better.

That little setter probably wouldn't handle copper rivets too well. I wouldn't use anything less than a one ton arbor press. Perhaps if ease and looks are what you're looking for Chicago screws might be easier an option?

Welcome to the board. I'm in between Allentown and Philly.

There are multiple sized tubular and ready rivets that press could be used for. It's not for copper rivets I don't think. Rapid rivets and tubular rivets can be pressed. Copper rivets need to be clipped and peened over with a hammer then rounded with the ball socket of the tool below.. For # 9 copper rivets the tool you need is this one. http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/search/searchresults/8110-00.aspx You can get it from springfield too I guess. search rivet setter rather than set.

You need a pinked scallop cutter. Hit up Bruce Johnson and see if he has any. http://brucejohnsonleather.com/content/index.php/leather_tools_for_sale/

You could probably get that using Tandy's pro waterstains mixed with the Pearl, Gold and Silver additives.

I find I constantly look for three types of new things: Tools, software and electronics. I use a four prong and two prong. The four for straight runs and the two for curves. In both cases I always put the first prong in the last hole. Best use for me is to use a heavier mallet and hit with enough force to put just the tips through the piece. Usually it will just pop right back out. The deeper you put it into your protective board the harder it is to remove from both the leather and the board. Waxing the chisel as you would an awl also helps.

Ah, I didn't think I was crazy. I think it may have been a case of "Not all chisels are made the same" as well. The GoodsJapan chisels and Pro series Craftool chisels are much better than the plain old Craftool chisels. They have far smaller prongs. I think you're probably right that using an awl on thick leather would be easier. I have an Osborne awl here that I stopped using because I didn't like the shape of the holes that it made. I think I'll reshape it and put some hours in with it but for double thicknesses of less than 9/10 ounces I'll stick to my chisels as it's way faster for me. Who knows maybe I'll eventually switch to the awl completely.

Yeah, you need to form those bottom creases better. Wetting the leather should help. You can also use a v-gouge on thicker leather to help get those 90° corners in there. Here's a tutorial on wet forming a pouch. You don't have to do all of that but it shows how to case the leather and what happens to it when you wet and dry it. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=19782 Hope that helps.

Here's an example of what an actual stitching chisel does. That is a size one harness needle in the image along with the chisel used to create the holes with 3 mm spacing. Do you guys really see these holes as being that much bigger that you could use them for lacing or am I missing something? Keep in mind that I'm not attacking you guys. I'm looking for actual answers. I see people who are die hard awl users complain about chisels a lot and having seen the neat orderly holes they can create I wonder why.

When was the last time you guys actually used a stitching chisel? I'm fairly certain my chisel will produce results comparable to Katsass' example. You definitely could not use them for lacing.

Tandy or Springfield carry them.

Technically you're correct. The math does work out to that. But in reality you're wrong because membership includes more than just a discount. Not trying to bust your chops but you've forgetten to include the multiple offers you recieve throughout the year. I get about four free stamps a year. You usually get multiple "50% off one item" coupons as well. You also now recieve free "gift cards" for the leathercraft library. At worst with the 50% coupons a smart shopper can recoup their membership by purchasing goods worth 70 bucks. At best with the free tools and gift cards you don't have to spend a penny to recoup it.

I'm not sure what a catch-all is but I assume it's a box of some sort. If you're using veg tan leather you should be able to just wet-form it over something (non-steel) roughly the same size and let it dry completely. That should help it to retain a square shape. You could also try heat hardening it.

Well technically you were correct LederRudi. Arbalet12's work would definitely remind you of arbalet12's work.

Great work Arbalet12!

Australian strander. Makes lace.

I agree on creating a start page. Joomla allows you to create a more tradition start page by moving posts on or off the index page. You can have a single artile represent your home page and make links to other pages to get to your products. http://docs.joomla.org/Managing_the_front_page That's a bit on Joomla's setup for the start page.

I believe every tool has it's use. The Power Mallet would be a good tool for someone not able to properly wield a mallet or someone who simply wanted to work faster. I could also see someone more comfortable with dremel use having an easier time with one as opposed to a regular mallet.

That looks very much like Arbalet12's work. Almost every time he's responded to what finish was used questions he says dark brown antique.

You should definitely make a post when they become available for purchase and download. Thanks!

Looks like you have training DVDs available on your website. Are they in Kazakh? And how can I purchase it from you here in the US?

Ha!! "closer" strap. Nice early moring spelling. Closure* I need more coffee.

Amazing work as usual arbalet12. You should be writing books on your design style.

You do very nice work. Clean lines and stylish. Nice engineering as well. I assume when you pull the closer strap it raises the cards for easy access?