cowboycolonel

Hannah, Here's a lengthy answer from one guy's perspective. When I built my first saddle (out of Al Stohlman's books) I chose a Wade tree because I wanted to eliminate as many variables as I could, ande thus could cut the cost of my learning. I used a Bowden Tree because of availability, reputation, and cost, figuring... well, what if I make a mistake. I studied the different types of rigging that I'd seen (I'd been repairing for about ten years before I decided to build) and chose Flat plate rigging for several reasons. It's stronger than in-skirt. It's straight forward, requiring fewer measurements, and if you have to tear it out and replace it, it won't cause a total re-build and possibly re-design of the saddle. One of the best, first lessons I learned was to talk to someone who has already built several saddles. Yeah, I know there are videos out there, but they don't answer most of the questions that a first-timer might have. For example, I decided to build everything out of leveled skirting, and started following Stohlman's recipe by cutting the gullet cover -- out of prime leather. After cutting out six of these, I decided to ask a maker and he told me that the gullet should be cut from the stretchy leather from near the belly - and unless it's going to be tooled, it doesn't make much difference how thick it is, because all it does is cover the tree - no weight or stress. I also fell into the trap that Sioux spoke about -- equating thickness with strength. Not True!!! Just like plywood, two layers can be stronger than one. Now I use 11/12 for riggings backed by 8/9. No need to go for 15 oz leather that's hard to work with -- especially for Saddle #1. I agree with Sioux on choice of suppliers as well. It might just be that the leather you get from Tandy will work and nobody else will know -- but you will always know, and you won't be as proud of your work. First saddles are not cheap! My first too 5 sides of leather and about six months. That's because I had no idea where I could recover or where the measurements were a bit less critical. Now I use two sides and build in about 100 hours, exclusive of tooling. I can build heavy on demand, but a working saddle (just like the one I live in for up to eight hours a day at times) comes in at about 33 pounds, and that's great for a saddle you rope and brand calves out of. I heartily suggest that you do the following. Even if you're only intending to build one saddle, buy a maker's stamp. Buy a quality tree, quality leather, and quality hardware. Then take as long as it takes to do a job you'll be proud to show off and put your stamp where it proclaims that this is your work and you're proud of it. Even if you have to tear out a stitch line a few times, make it something you'd want to show off. If you need help and no maker is available to you locally, then get back to this site and post your questions, You won't find a more handy resource. Squawk if you need help. Good luck, and happy building.

The first thing to do is sharpen that awl! It's amazing how much easier that makes stitching. Then follow up with armitage's video. Always use the same sequence when stitching: awl, back thread, top thread, pull tight. If you do it out of sequence, your stitching will show it.

I got one too. I replied to Weaver thanking them for chasing profits at the expense of the custom/small shop keeper. What a disappointment they have turned out to be. Guess we'll just have to spend our money elsewhere. ...and the are other places. just look on the home page and follow your nose. For leather, use Hide House or Goliger's. For dyes and care products, go straight to the manufacturer. ...and for the things you can't readily find, use this website. Weaver might have made a mistake, but they'll never feel it unless/until all of us non-production shops and hobbyists cut Them off from our money. We do have choices.

Are you looking for someone to make these for you, or are you looking for help to make them yourself? Will it have a hard spine, or will it be made of leather? How "tight" are the specs? Do you have a deadline? Will the books have pockets, or just front work? Will they be lined? Give me more to go on, please.

I don't know of anything that won't despoil leather to one degree or another. When I use fingernail polish, I apply a drop to the female thread end before putting the stud in thehole. Then I add a bit onto the male thread ends and screw them together. Has been working for me for years. Gotta be careful.

Chris, You aren't this first leatherworker to decide that his work is not as cosmetically appealing as he would like. Just like getting to Carnegie Hall, all it takes is practice. Practice stitching, practice pattern design, practice tooling, and the list goes on. But from what I can see, you're off to a good start. Two things mark the quality of craftsmanship above all else. Those are edging and stitching. Watch Armitage's videos on stitching, and rub your edges until your arm falls off. (I also like to dome all my rivets.)

I have been using my wife's discarded/no-longer-wanted nail polish for all my threaded applications for years. Never a problem with them coming undone. Has the added advantage of the brush applicator and sunk cost. BUT, there are Sam Browne studs with rivet backings. I have some in both brass and chrome finishes. I prefer them over the screw-backed ones, which I also have, but it takes a special anvil assembly to apply them correctly.

Talk to Ernie Grospitch in Florida and he'll make you one. My smallest is 4 " point to point. Sorry

So what is the real difference between a guitar strap, a banjo strap, a dobro strap, etc?

You could probably still take a groover and run it carefully down the intended hinge points on the inside. Then oil it again and when that's dry, coat the open (non-finished ) area with Skidmore's leather cream. Part of the reason for the cracking is that the outside leather has to travel further when opening and closing than does the inside leather. Grooving the inside leather will reduce the thickness and will provide some necessary relief. Your cover is beautiful.

Take a piece of scrap leather and place it between the saddle and a pair of nippers or side cutters. Use the nippers to grasp -NOT CUT - the nail and gentle pull it out, using the scrap leather as a shield. Note: Some people think they are doing a good thing by using ring-shank nails in building a saddle. These are a real pain to remove, and you often have to cut them off and the set them below the surface of the leather. Don't make that mistake.

Is this leather to leather? If so, either Barge's or Masters should work. Are you going to stitch the strips after the glue has dried, or does the glue bong need to "carry" the stress at the connection? If not, then rubber cement will hold while you stitch, but it will not work for long term or stressed applications.

I was told when I started that is would come of mottled gray if not applied over an undercoat, so have been doing that for years. Now that I have your experience on it, I will try my next project without the undercoat. Thanks Harry. I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out.

Hey Whistle, It would be helpful to know how it's made. Is it a single piece of leather, or did you make a front, back, and spine? Is there an insert, like a ring binder inside? did you bond leathers for the spine. I assume you want to "bend it" so it will close like a book. Might have some ideas if I know more about the work and what you want it to turn out like.

Does anyone have a source for instructions or videos on how to construct rounded work, like headstalls and reins?

When I do this, I put the adjusting buckle on so that when I'm done the pins will face the horse. If I'm building the saddle, I will often use a bag punch and tap through both the stirrup leather and the fender leather to get a good start. I use a 3/8 saddlestring and punch a hole in one end while tapering the other end and the sides of the string. Thoroughly wet the string so it will stretch and form a tight wrap. Wrap around both pieces, but do not tie them off yet. Put both assemblies on the stretcher and make certain that everything is properly aligned and then tighten the wraps and finish them off by pulling the running ends back down through the wraps (I wrap 5 times). Then tighten the stretcher as tight as you can get it and set it aside. I tighten it again the next day and the next. By then the moisture will be gone and your stirrups will be set forever. Please note that you should do all tooling, stamping and dyeing, and edging, including punching the holes for the Blevins or Kreger's or whatever you're going to use, beforehand. If you still need a photo of a stirrup stretcher, let me know.

Gte one of F. O. Baird's books, or Al Stohlman's. Check out Pete Gorrell's Floral Pattern Drawing for Dummkies. Don't feel constrained. Do what feels good to you.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Those look great, but I don't use them and nobody I know does, except for "show people". I too like larger stitching on saddle items. I use 5 stitches per inch and in this case, I'd be certain to cut a stitch groove. I also prefer white (natural) thread color on saddle items that are going to be saddle tan or lighter. These are beautiful.

I've seen this movie. A fellow gave me a saddle that was last ridden the year I was born - more than 60 years ago. The leather was harder than Chinese arithmetic. How to fix it? Time and patience. It took about a year of applying oil and conditioner until I could get the leather to a point where I could sew it. I started with Fiebing's salt remover (small amount) and then moved to neatsfoot oil. I worked some over the surface every day or two until it was obviously soaking in. Then I worked Skidmore's conditioner into the entire saddle about once a week. Whatever you do, DON'T soak the leather in oil hoping to fix the whole problem quickly. It won't work. Nor will the application of heat. Only time and patience will serve. Good luck.

I case everything but chap leather. Rubber cement works wonders, as it sticks, but not permanently, and the residue can (normally) be removed by rubbing. For a quicker match, use a surform tool with a curved face, then sand and burnish as required/desired. Double sticky tape might work on wallet pieces, but for saddle work it would be cumbersome and expensive when rubber cement is available.