cowboycolonel

Pay attention to how you cut your pieces. If you cut out one piece from the butt and then the second from the belly, they won't match. Also pay attention the moisture in the leather. Try to do your matching pieces at the same time so that they both have about the same moisture content. Don't pull and stretch the leather as you cut it. Rather sharpen your tools again, and again, and again! Practice cuts as much as you can.

I usually use a 3/8 indentation to the stitchline from the edge of the pieces, but inset the stitching to 1/2 on the gusset. That way the part of the gusset outside the stitchline can be trimmed to match the outside of the panels and can then yield a uniform edge when burnished and finished. If you don't allow a bit of exttra space on the gusset, then you won't get a good match around the corners of the bags.

go to oldcowdogs.com. I use his stuff almost exclusively because you can't get better quality stuff at anywhere near that price point. PLUS, he has all the old Bohlin-type patterns and dies.

Pretty good for a first pair. If you're going to make more, maybe you'd consider tapering the ends of the buckle strap so that they lay flatter. Also, unless you're going to use a center-bar buckle, you'd want a keeper on the outside of the buckle to tuck it away. Then, just for aesthetics, consider surrounding your carving with a crease instead of a single tick line. It will make a huge difference in the perceived quality of your work.

I used to have alignment problems with saddlebags too. This was because the gusset has more stretch than do the face and back panel. Here's my solution. Use rubber cement to hold the front panel in place over the back and then pre-punch all stitching. Take your gusset and pre-punch both sides using the same spacing, taking care to not let the leather stretch as it goes under the foot. Now mark all work centers. Beginning with one gusset and one front OR back panel, glue (if desired) a small range (20 stitches or so) and stitch. Continue doing this until the gusset is completely attached to one half of the panel. Then go back to the center and work the other direction. When you have finished stitching the gusset to the first piece, then go to the center mark of the other piece, align it with the other center mark on the gusset, and repeat the process. If you've taken care and marked your centers correctly, then you will be no more than half a stitch off of alignment when you're finished, and unless you're a TCAA guy, you can't get much better.

If you're serious about this, I suggest you get Al Stohlman's Encyclopedia of saddlemaking (3 Vols) and read Vol 1 prior to even buying leather. You'll only need Vols 1 and 2, but the whole set is cheaper and will be easier to sell if you decide to. There are many "right" ways to build a saddle, and many "wrong ways" as well. Comfort only counts if it is comfortable for the horse as well. Symmetry is crucial - don't worry so much about weight. Mine have been weighing between 28 and 35 pounds, but my first saddle weighed ove 60 pounds ( not one I made). The maker said it was for strength, but you can get a strong build at a lot less weight. If it's only going to "ride the pine" then you can cut corners, but I wouldn't, as it would have no sale value and, after all, would have your maker's mark on it, right? Sound off if you need any help at all. Rick

Grew up in Caledonia. 29 years in the Air Force and now in CA. The saddle I showed you (Cliff Wade tree with straight up cantle) took about 100 hours to actually build with about another 100 hours to tool and finish. It's built to be cowboy-used, so it is very strong and comfortable. Parade-quality and museum -quality will take longer, as would a grain-side out seat.

I do all of my saddle stitching by hand, For chaps, belts, etc I use a machine. Still, I use the machine to pre-punch the holes in the skirts and rigging, and then do the actual sewing by hand. Takes time, but yields a nicer product, I believe.

I have used Quality and Bowden. Watt Bros make a nice tree too.

Hey TB, I only use a latigo wrap for looks. I do NOT rope on one because the rope doesn't "bite". I have nor had any problem with the dye transferring from latigo to mulehide. Split that 8/9 down to about 3/4 and skive the edges. Then soak it and apply plent of saddle soap to the chinaman. Then go to work.

Nope

Hey Corporal, here's what I did for my first. find a slick fork saddle tree. I used a Cliff Wade from Bowden saddletree (saddletree.com) because you won't have to worry about welts on the swell. You can learn how to do that later after you've developed some skill. I used a stock saddle and put in a straight-up cantle (because that's what I like and it's easier than messing with a Cheyenne Roll (same reason as before) Plan on wasting some leather until you learn how to select the right piece for the right part of the saddle. I used 6 sides to make my first saddle and now do a complete saddle with two and have plenty of leather left over. Also, it took me about five months to do my first and now can turn out a fully carved and stamped one in about three weeks. Just the learning curve. Use only the best glue and Sharp Sharp Sharp cutting tools. Don't be in a hurry and enjoy the process - it will make for a better product and eventually, a better ride. This is a 565 Bowman tree - Also very easy and forgiving for a novice maker.

The tree is a Cliff Wade in 15 1/2 from Bowden Saddle tree in El Paso, TX. I use them almost exclusively because I never had had a problem with balance and symmetry and their customer service can't be beat! Go to saddletree.com to find them. Central Ohio? I grew up near Marion. Thanks for the compliment.

My personal saddle is a loop seat half-breed with exposed leathers - just like you are describing except that I don't have square skirts. I have made some saddles with square skirts, however, and I have found that if you use heavier skirting for your plugs the skirt will stand up better. Eventually it will depend on how the saddle is handled and stored. Remember, even if you rid for eight hours a day (which I doubt) your saddle will spend three times as much time off the horse as on it. Go from there and invest in a quality saddle stand/rack. For an 'eight button seat " such as you describe, follow Stohlman's procedure for fitting a one-piece seat (six-button) and when you get to the base of the swell, cut a tab to match the ear at the corner of the seat and remove all the leather forward of this. Easier that a one-piece, if you ask me. My wife fought me from making her saddle with exposed leathers as she was afraid they'd pinch. Now she doesn't even remember that they'e there. I have never felt mine either, and I've had them on all three saddles I've made for myself. I make my own strainers and use four pieces of leather for the ground seat.

call the Hide House and ask for a bend. If you want quality gear, use quality leather. Stay away from cheap belly leather, no matter what the source. Have you seen George Hurst's video on holster making? Helped me a lot.

Go to your local paint store and ask for some sample daubers. They're made of sponge rubber and the paint shop has them by the thousands. Cut a piece of about 3/8 wide anda use it until it gets hard, then trim off the hard part and get back to work again. My guy gave me a dozen about a year ago and I think I have five or six left. They're great, and don't cost anything at all. They paint guy might even give them to you.

Radek, Here's what I can help you with. First, you need to know that Fiebings Black dye will NOT dye Black with even repeated applications. You need to lay down a base of another color, like dark brown or mahogany, and when that dries, top it off with black. how much dye you need depends on the moisture of the leather, the size of the piece, and how much you can control the application. As always, your best choice is to dye a test piece first. Dyeing the edges is a poor alternative to slicking and finishing the edges. It will look okay for a bit, but for quality work you're going to want to do a slick job. I gave up on Gum Tragacanth for saddle soap a couple of years ago. After you're edges and smootheed your work, take a piece of saddle soap and rub the edge until it becomes slick. Then apply the edgecote or edge dressing. It is different from dye and creates a quality finish. Many believe that the first indicator of quality is a finished edge, so don't start out by skimping here. Use the dauber for as long as it does the job. When it becomes hard and no longer allows you to control application, throw it away. I don't use them at all any more, as I have plenty of fleece left over from making saddles to last me for the next 100 or so years. Neatsfoot oil in not the same as Carnuba. Do not use them interchangeably. Oil your work prior to dyeing it, then apply Carnuba if you want. Think of the Carnuba as a finishing coat only. It will keep the leather from accepting the dye with uniformity. Use only 100% neatsfoot oil - not any of the neatsfoor oil compounds. If you only want to smooth out the "fuzz" then rub vigorously with your saddle soap and then rub with your rub stick. I use a piece of deer antler as a rub stick and it works great. Resolene will close up the leather and will not allow it to breathe. Resolene is good as a resist when dyeing, but I wouldn't use it to finish the flesh side - but then I'm not a fan of finishing the flesh side unless necessary. Hope this helps.

Tandy sells a combination pattern pack for chaps and chinks which comes complete with rudimentary instructions. You really can't do better for the money and you'll get some ideas of where you want to go with your craft. Don't expect to make show-quality or museum quality items off the bat. Pay close attention to your stitching lines, and don't be afraid to rip out a stitch line if you have to. Buy a couple of belt blanks from Tandy to start with. Then you can expand and will know whether to go thicker or thinner, broader or more narrow, depending on intended use. Until you get comfortable, go to Tandy -- THEN start looking for other options. DO NOT buy a whole array of tools that you don't need for starters! Best if you can buy only what you think you need for the job at hand, since you don't have a deadline to meet.

Thanks JL. I had a local guy make one for me, but he botched the job so badly that all I ended up with was a bad paperweight.

I'd like to find someone who could put me on the trail of an arch punch that could be used to make cutouts for rigging rings. 2 3/4 inch would be perfect, but with the taper on the inside. Or maybe someone has a better idea?

Great looking dragon! Now to put in on a belt -- Aye, there's the rub.

Go to any tattoo shop or look at tattoo patterns on line. For some reason those abound with dragons of all sorts. BTW, ask your buyer what kind of dragon he hants. I make a pair of chinks with ddragon designs only to find out that Chinese dragons are not the same as English dragon. Whodda thunk, huh?

looks like you're getting quite the following. Access too, please.

for those who might not have broken the code yet, here's the real gouge. Everyplace has a tombstone supplier, even if there's no readily available counter-top dealer. Now and again the engraver will make a mistake, and when he does, that piece of stone becomes an ideal tooling block. So what if you have to make do with one two inches thick and eighteen by eighteen while you wait for something bigger. The price will be right in the long run.