cowboycolonel

Like most things, they have their place. They are particularly useful when you're trying to stitch something and don't have enough clearance to be able to pull your needles all the way through the material, like the corner of a Cheyenne Roll, for example. I have two of them (because a guy gave them to me) and haven't used them more then half-a dozen times in 20 years. BUT, when you need them, you really need them. I have since found that you can work faster with a simple hook in an awl haft, and these come in different sizes.

Dear J, You will need a pointed awl for anything you do. Tandy sells Osborne awls and they will work for what you want to do. I suggest you call Dick Anderson, number if you want through personal contact, and tell him what you're doing and he will set you up. Remember, the best awl in the world is dangerous unless you keep it sharp. Same goes for Head knives and, well, everything else. While you're ordering from Tandy, get a small Badmitten awl. It will come in handy. These things aren't expensive, so you can go wild and still not break the bank.

That is a tough one without having an idea of your budget for tools. I believe that money spent on good tools doesn't count, so I look for the best -- not necessarily the most expensive. Gotta have a good head knife and know how to sharpen it. Swivel knife if you're going to do any tooling. Dividers for measuring. Pointed awl, diamond awl and assorted needles. Maul for stamping and tooling and quality stamps to do the job you'd be proud of. A good source to start is Barry King in Sheridan. Hackbarth for some stamps, Osborne makes a head knife for starters, and you can move up if you want. Hope this helps.

Dear J, Stohlman's encyclopedia can explain this better and more succinctly than any of us could on a forum such as this. Tandy sells the three-volume set for a pretty good price, but IMHO you only need Vols 1 and 2, as Vol 3 is a variation on a theme, with 1 and 2 laying out the basics that you need. When I block my skirts, I wet the line thoroughly and then use a French Shoeing hammer and crease the skirt into the tree. Then I tack the skirt into place with a 3/4 inch wire nail. Put these nails about every inch amd a half to two inches all along the skirt EXCEPT where the stirrup leathers will run. DO Not Block This Area. When the skirt is dry, go back and pull the nails. Lay the skirts out and rough fit your plugs. I disagree with Toot on this, as you need a firm edge to help hold the shape of the skirt, but do not need all that weight and firmness under the tree at the top of the bars. I'd stay away from "bellies". Buy the Sides and you'll end up with enough belly leather to fulfill any need you might have. When you take the saddle apart, look to see what the last guy did. I've seen putative plugs using 5-7 oz leather which makes me wonder why they even bothered, and I've see skirts fully backed with 9-10 oz stuff, which adds SO MUCH WEIGHT!!! Who built your saddle originallyl? If you're still looking for sources, you might5 look at The Hide House in Napa, California or Goliger's in Ventura. Both sell Hermann Oak, which as you will hear often, is consistently good grade.

I agree with Ken for sure/ If you don't block and plug the skirts then you are wasting time, effort and leather. Do it to last!

where did you get those latches?

Gonna be awfully heavy fenders

I buy my plastic in 4' x 8' sheets. I also proof-test my patterns on card stock prior to making the hard copy.

might want to have new ones made. that way you can keep the longer ones for future use.

I use a thin gauge plastic to make some of my patterns. You can write on it with a magic marker and if you're punching holes, you can use your leather tools to do the work. It's not expensive and holds its shape when wet.

I went to Japanese Woodworkers in Southern California. As you probably know, the Japanese craftsmen have long been known for the sharpness of their tools, so I gave it a try. I bought two sharpening blocks, diamond embedded with rubber carriers, so they don't slide around as you use them. One is "Fine" and the other is "Extra Fine". I also bought a "DMT Diamond Sharpening System" set of three "steels", also diamond embedded, but with these, you stroke the sharpening tool over the stationary knife, punch, or whatever. These are really cool and well worth the money. Let me know what you think, The bench stones are "Dia sharp"

My opinion: Don't waste time using a synthetic fleece. DON'T use ring shank nails. They are too hard to remove and if you need the extra strength, you have bigger problems than a ring shank will solve. I use blue lathe nails 1 1/8". You don't want a permanent bond when installing the fleece, so use rubber cement around the edges and then stitch. Let the fleece breathe with the leather and it will last longer. Be sure to use the same stitch holes as doing otherwise will perforate the leather and ruin the skirts. Have fun.

How many do you want?

Saw the actual belt last week - SUPER!!!

Big Sioux, I do it that way because I use the guide on my Adler to align the stitches, and if I try to sew at the same time, I run the risk of having the fleece catch up in the feed dogs, which REALLY messes up a stitch line. Besides, I think a hand-stitched skirt looks so much better. As I said, I "tack" the fleece to the skirts with rubber cement then half a dozen randomly- spaced single stitches. The fleece can slip a bit and still come out right. If you trim it first and it slips, then you have a wreck to clean up. I hate wrecks!!!

I don't use Barge's any more, as I have found that replacing the fleece is more difficult because of the tight bond that results. And you WILL have to replace the fleece sooner or later. I have never done the "wet fleece" thing, as I have not had problems, but I can see where that would help.

Tandy sells zippers by the foot. Buy the pieces separately and build your own. It's really easy, especially if your zipper will be blind on both ends. It's a no-brainer.

Dam, There are "efficient" ways, meaning ways that don't take as much time, and there are "good" ways, meaning ways that create a product you will be proud of. If I'm fleecing a saddle for the first time, then I line the skirts up on my Adler and pull the threads out so that I am simply punching holes. I run a stitch line as if I were actually sewing the fleece to the skirt. Then I cut out the fleece over-sized and apply rubber cement along about a foot of each side - fleece and skirt. I tie a stitch on each end of this "tack" and several other places around the skirt so the pieces stay in place. Then I stitch in the holes I have pre-punched, using a diamond awl and two needles. When I get to the end of the "tack", I create another one in the same fashion and sew it, etc, until the skirt is done. Trim and edge, and you're done! When you are finished, you will have a professional job. I only apply rubber cement to about a 1 1/2 inch ribbon around each piece to allow for breathing and shrinkage of the dissimilar materials. Do Not glue the whole surface!!! When re-fleecing, your best looking job will be accomplished if you use the same stitch holes as the original saddle maker. Otherwise you will perforate the leather and the job will not only look tacky, it will not hold up. Some jobs just don't lend themselves to short cuts. This is one of them, if you ask me. Cowboy Colonel

Go to George Hurst's videos and he'll show you how to make a pattern and holster all in one - can't get any simpler!

So what is the prevailing wisdom out there? Do we shop for a new bed, try to get this one re-surfaced (and if so, how), or what? The clicker has been USED and is still in great shape, except that the bed has been worn down to the point that just about every "click" results in a stuck die. Of course this means that sometimes the piece gets stuck in the die and then possibly stretched out of shape on removal. Operating from the adage that "Money spent on tools doesn't count", where do I go and what do I do? Suggestions

Fleecing skirt for first time, or re-fleecing it?

Dink up George Hurst's video sets. Some Great info there

did you case it before carving? a dew seconds in warm water and let it dry overnight in plastic. Look up "casing"