cowboycolonel

If Deuce doesn't work out, you can feel free to contact me

Depends on the thickness of the leather as well as the length. For saddle skirts, which come in at about 13-15 oz, I do twice the length, PLUS and additional 1/3 the length per side, when doing double needle stitching. In other words, 2 and 2/3 times the length to be sewed. It doesn't hurt to be come adept at splicing either. That way you end up wasting a lot less thread -- and I never throw away the "ends", saving them for tacking of sewing small items like keepers. That flax is expensive, so no need to waste it.

Let me know if you find them -- especially blades. I have a number 7 and a number 5, of which I use the 5 most often. .

A restaurant here makes a bid deal about their napkin rings. ...just punched and inserted the end of a strip of leather into the other side - looks like a "breast cancer" ribbon. They want "all" my scraps. Wait 'til I deliver a saddle box full!

For me the "design and layout is always the toughest part of any project. If he's wanting you to do the research, then let him pay for your efforts. If he's got something in mind and you don't deliver, it's on you (at least in his eyes). I recommend you ask your guy what he wants, then charge time and materials.

Go to saddletree.com. Bowden usually has something on the shelf in about 15 1/2 ready to ship. They are very fast - and good. I have been 100% satisfied with everything they've sent me.

I do not use Lexol at all. Skidmore's leather conditioner is my "go to" conditioner and Bentley's liquid glycerin saddle soap is my cleaner. 100% neatsfoot oil (Fiebing's) when needed. No need to buy any other product as far as I'm concerned.

suppose a picture might help.

I tried using a spoke shave, but found that the edges of the blade were a problem. On saddle seats and such, I use a heel shave, but am having trouble finding blades for them. Still, I use it for about all my seat work.

Ken, do you want to sell the 8" blade separately? Price?

I have used several programs either as stand-alone or in concert with others. I have settled on Illustrator, although I am not completely thrilled with their new (non) support mechanism,. You can take a photo of your pattern or image, then "place" that image into an open file. Use the guides to size it to what you want, then mask unwanted areas and change the remainder to grayscale to preserve colored ink. If you really want to get involved, you can add a layer and trace over the desired image, then remove the base layer. OR, after sizing, you can trace your image by hand and scan it back into the computer for resizing as desired. The real question is whether you want to work for the computer or have it work for you. So many options and variations.

I have done it, but ONLY in a pinch. When I have done it, I've folded and rolled the seams after coating liberally with rubber cement. If you don't do something to hold the fibers, the stitching won't last very long as everything will un-ravel.

Guess this would depend on what you mean by "here and there", your pattern or mine, whose ID stamp goes on the work, etc. Might be interested.

Here in the Peoples' Republic of California, where we're protected from ourselves, we can't get Barge's in any useful quantities, so I've had to go to Master's. It forms a strong bond, seems to grip more readily on moist leather, and doesn't give off such a strong odor, so it's what I use now. Doubt I'd go back to Barge's if I could.

Okay, Guys, A priority mail box measuring 5 1/2 X 12 X12 will hold 5 pounds of fleece. So there's your benchmark.

Smashy, I trim the fleece short before using it, so I wouldn't think that the length of the wool fibers is a player. It just lets you apply the medium (whether dye, neat-lac, Atom Wax, etc.) evenly

I just threw out five large black garbage bags full of fleece remnants. Can't find anyone to take them and I only use whole fleeces to line my saddles. Pay the shipping and I'll send you the stuff by the ton.

Let me see if I can find my pattern pack. I'll get back to you.

Did you not want to follow the advice from above? If not, Tandy sells full on pattern. I find that it's much easier to make you own, as you aren't having to modify a "one-size-fits-none" pattern.

Here's the deal. Woody. You want balance and proper weight. If it works for you, then use it. I prefer a maul. Using a mallet wears me out. You have to pay attention to keeping the face aligned properly and you want to use just the right amount of effort on each and every stroke. Once you get the feel for the maul, it's effortless and you can do it all day. Find what works for you and then go with it.

As I posted a month or so ago -- I use Everclear. It's cheaper than reducer and since it's durn near pure alcohol, works just fine. Normal precautions apply. Practice on a test strip first. AND ... I you're going to drink it, please do so prior to adding the actual dye.

I go for building the pattern around the weapon when given a choice. If you have your hands on it, it will take moments to do that.

The glass shop sells the stuff here. I just go down and have them cut it to size. Seems to me that tape is the better option for smaller pieces.