hidepounder

Denise......I can't speak directly to the use of Dawn in this instance, however I am an advocate in the use of Dawn or Joy dish soap (that's what I use the most) in the water that I apply to my leather for tooling. These soaps contain detergents which are surfactants. Surfactants break the surface tension of water allowing for a more complete absorption by the cells of the leather, enhancing the "casing" process. So I'm going to hazard a guess that the same or similar principles may apply with the fibers of the wool........I don't know if that makes any sense but it sure sounds impressive, don't you think? LOL!

Couple of comments. First it is very important to seal the leather with Neatlac or a similar sealer prior to applying the antique. The sealer is what allows you to get an even finish with no splotches. It also allows you to leave the antique on for a longer period of time without affecting the color. I clean my leather with oxalic acid prior to sealing it, just as John recommended. Secondly, Tan Kote can't be used as a sealer or "resist" for paste antique fiinishes. If you'll read the label you will see that Tan Kote is what Fiebings recomends for thinning the paste antique. A lot of makers do apply Tan Kote for a final finish....I happen to prefer NeatLac. I do use Tan Kote frequently when I want a more mellow finish and when antiqueing is not involved. I use it on almost all of my interiors. However I prefer not to mix the resist and finish products. I'm not sure there is really any justification for that, but it's generally what I do. If you watch Keith's video you'll notice that he uses Tan Kote as one of his antiquing steps and he mentions that it DOES NOT provide a final seal. I'm not critical of this step at all....I'm just not sure that I understand it. There is a possibity that Keith is actually removing any antique residue by applying the Tan Kote. There is absolutely nothing wrong with doing this of course....I'm just convinced of the value of this step.....it's something I think I'll try......

I don' think I can answer that question. You can use gum trag, bees wax or Casing Solution from LSI, but they all are difficult to dye through. A new product on the market that works pretty well is Quik Slik which is carried by Luke & Vandy at Sheridan Leather Outfitters 307.674.6679. It is a slicking agent and takes the place of wetting the leather and applying saddle soap. But if you are looking for a different source for glycerine soap, I can't help you. The thing to remember is that edges can be burnished by just using water, a piece of canvas and elbow grease. What I have tried to provide in my instructions is what works best for me. But it is only one of many methods. I just haven't been able to achieve superior results with the other methods I've tried. I'm always looking however and I'm not above jumping ship if I can find a better mouse trap!

LOL! I can confirm that the Best Western downtown is a very convenient place to stay. I missed seeing you too Johanna, I was sort of on my own over there this year! BTW....spoke with Dot, yesterday, looks like I'm going to be there again next year, but we made some changes and I'll get to spend some time with my friends at the show, LOL! Sheridan really is a fun town. I agree with all of the suggestions and would add the historic Mint Bar. If you have the chance to take a day trip, go see the memorial at the Little Big Horn...it's worth the drive! Bobby

Absolutely. Use whatever finish you prefer. I just happen to be a NeatLac fanatic. It is my favorite finish. If you prefer use, Tan Kote , Resolene, Saddle Lac, whatever. Bobby

Ken I get it from a plastics supplier. They are a wholesale outfit and they sell the High Impact Styrene in 4'x8' sheets.

If it's white it's probably High Impact Styrene which comes in many thicknesses. It's what I use use when I insert stiffeners. Isn't the inside layer a liner??? I have built belts on and off for 40 years and I install stiffeners fairly regularly. A lot of times customers are concerned about the tails breaking down and flopping and when that is an issue, I will install a High Impact Styrene stiffener between the belt and the liner. If I'm doing a filigree belt, sometimes a stiffener helps the leather from breaking down at stress points. However if your customer insists on wearing their pants three sizes too small then you will definitely have a challenge on your hands to prevent the center belt loop from folding the belt down and creating a "V". I'm sorry but that's just reality. I suppose a thin metal plate will do the trick and help to prevent or at least delay the deforming of the back of the belt, and there is nothing wrong with doing that....the tough part is deciding whether or not you will explain the problem and fix to the customer or just doing it to avoid insulting them!

Congrats Troop! Holsters look good too!

.....apply LeatherNew (it has liquid glycerine). It cleans and refurbishes the leather and can be buffed to a nice shine. I think it is common for people to over oil. They apply it when all they needed was a little saddle soap. You can re-apply NeatLac if you need to, but be sure everything that was applied prior is thoroughly absorbed and dry first.

..............what Pete and Spur2009 said!!!

Nice holsters Elton and I like the back belt too!

Hi Eddie! A busness makes a great strop. That's what Don Butler uses for his swivel knives. I am using a green rough fro stropping and for final polishing. I'm not sure exactly what it is....I bought a large bar and it was expensive, but I really like it. And I always use a jig to sharpen with. I didn't for years, but after spending a lot of money on custom made blades I started using the guide again and I don't have to resharpen very often.....just strop. The harder the steel the longer the edge lasts....especially if you sharpen with a jig. If you get a piece of leather that is acidic and your swivel knife get sticky quickly, try wetting a piece of woolskin and working up a little lather on a bar of ivory soap....then work it into your cased leather.....sometimes it really helps smooth out the cutting process......

Mijo.....I do not wait for the glycerin bar soap to dry before I burnish. Remember....we are using the glycerine bar as a "slicking" agent as opposed to what it was designed to be used for...therefore the instructions really don't apply. Also, when I add paste soap to my canvas, it is for the purpose of providing lubrication to the canvas so that I don't over burnish creating rough spots. I can't tell you why, but for some reason using just the glycerine bar on both the leather edge and the canvas, or using the paste soap only, just doesn't produce as good a result for me as using both. However, I think it is very common for a lot of makers to use paste only and they are content with the result. I probably go overboard....I think that's just my nature.....but I think my edges will stack up to most maker's results. In my opinion there is no real reason to apply gum trag if you've gone through the process of burnishing with saddle soap. After all, the gum trag is just used as a slicking agent like the saddle soap is, but it won't hurt a thing to use it. Maybe it will provide a longer lasting finish....I don't know.....I only use it on latigo where it does an excellent job. Hope this helps..... Bobby

I would really like to be able draw on the computer, however I'm not sure how practical it would really be. If I were only making items whose patterns fit on an 8-1/2" x 11" piece of paper then maybe it would be handy, however I find that an awful lot of what I do requires larger paper than what I can print on at home so I draw my patterns by hand. And when I do have a large pattern that I've drawn, It isn't very practical to try to scan it. I know it can be done, but not with the everyday home equipment that most of us live with and I can't see an advantage to running back and forth to Kinkos and paying them to print out or scan the larger patterns. So I've kind of given up on using the computer to draw with.......... Bobby

That's a fantastic case John! I know that took a long time to build. Especially because it's one piece. No way will that ever wear out....it's built to last! Great job on the pattern and the silver accents! Bobby

James, Here's a good thread to read regarding edges. EDGES Hope this helps.... Bobby

Ben and I have discussed this at some length. For me the looks of the entire "underneath" stitch line is a big issue that I'm fighting with and losing the battle on. I just can't get a decent looking stitch line on the bottom side when I'm using a liner and by stopping and starting, the stitch line underneath just looks worse. So I opt for option B, sewing over the edge. I think it is a more common practice than stopping short of "the edge" and restarting again, and I don't care much for the way that looks either, but for me it is the lesser of two evils. I think Bruce's idea of leaving the tag line long and then putting a needle on it and completing the stitch from the under side is worth pursuing! It will probably result in a long stitch on the bottom, which I don't like, but that frequently occurs when the presser feet travel over the edge anyway. I use a pretty short stitch, recently about 10 to 11 stitches per inch and so a long stitch stands out a lot more than if I was using 6 or 7 stitches per inch. I have also seen makers use the "stop and start" method at the edge and then use their overstiticher on the bottom side to create the illusion of a completed stitch even though it's really not there. Sometimes it looks okay, sometimes not....... Bobby

K-Man....thanks for posting photos of your burnisher and your results. I have seen the stainless burnishers but had no idea how well they performed. Bobby

the strap in this photo was punched....probably on a clicker where they can produce at lot of them at once. You won't be able to duplicate this exact look with your knife, but if you are careful you can still produce a nice clean cut that is very acceptable. Additionally...if you are making "custom" watch bands, you don't want them to look "manufactured". Bobby

I did glue the overlap with Barge initially but it came apart before very long. The thing is though, once the canvas conforms to the wheel and becomes saturated with soap it just sticks to itself. So there was a small amount of flapping, initially. Nothing that was a big deal, just something you noticed and it then it eventually stopped. The whole piece of canvas is just taped on with electrical tape.

Utilizing a Harbor Freight drill press like Chris suggests would be a quick and easy way to start burnishing with a minimal investment. But don't forget....you can produce "show quality" edges with a piece of canvas and a little elbow grease. In spite of all the burnishing equipment I have, I often have to burnish by hand or touch up by hand to get the final finish I'm looking for. Another way to go which I've considered messing with is adding arbor extensions to the Craftsman variable speed bench grinder. I have one that I set up for my sharpening wheels and I've always thought it would make a good burnisher. It adjusts from 1750 rpms to 3500 rpms. It's more expensive than the HF drill motor, but you would have the advantage of two burnishing wheels always set up and ready to use. I would put wood wheels on both sides and cover one with canvas....I have yet to see anyone produce better edges than what can be produced by using heavy duct canvas. Just some thoughts..... Bobby

I have never built a burnisher, but here are a couple of photos of the Weaver burnisher that I use along with a finished edge and a link to my process CLICK HERE . Hope this helps..... Bobby

Frank, You can do it either way. It's personal preference. I recommend applying a finish to your burnished edges however. Bobby

Rod & Denise... I can't tell you how much I enjoyed seeing those pictures and the different stages of production. Like everyone else I had no idea just how long and complicated the process really is. THANKS!!! Bobby

Hi Vince, It sounds like you are doing everything right. I am not familiar with Lac Kote from Fiebings. I use use NeatLac. Maybe the Lac Kote won't accept the color very well I don't know. It does sound to me like you might be putting the lac Kote on a little heavy. Most of us use a piece of trimmed wool skin to apply out Neatlac and work it in rather thoroughly. I noticed that you didn't mention oiling your project before sealing it with the Lac Kote. I always oil lightly and let it absorb for a day before sealing. That provides a little color also. I like olive oil. Many use neatsfoot oil. Which ever you use be sure to apply it very lightly and evenly with trimmed wool skin. I use Fiebings Antique paste....it sounds like that's what you are using. I apply it heavily, insuring that it gets into all the cuts and crevices before wiping it off. Some of the colors do not color the leather very much. Tan is way too light for me and Sheridan Brown doesn't make much color either. In order for those colors to show you must eliminate the lac Kote and apply them directly to the leather. That works fine except it is very difficult to even coloring. The colors have a tendency to blotch due to the various surface textures in the leather. They will also highlight any marks or scratches on the leather, which aren't so prominent when you use a resist (Lac Kote)first. I use Light Brown quite a lot when I only want to highlight the cuts and depressions without making a big change in the color of the leather. If I want a little darker color I will use Mahogany. So I think that if you apply your Lac Kote with a trimmed wool skin and use a darker color you outcome will be better. I hope this helps... Bobby