hidepounder

Hi Mijo, For me the biggest reason to sand is to insure that two oieces glued together are perfectly smooth on the edge. Sanding also removes any residual glue that might be left on the edge. After I sand the glued edge, then I use my edger. If I have a single piece of leather I usually sand it also before I do my edging, just to insure that the edge is nice and smooth. I usually won't sand in multiple stages unless I am making a show piece. For me, sanding with multiple grits only makes a small difference and I'm not sure it is worth the effort on anything other than a show piece. Others will disagree with me and insist that sanding with multiple grits makes a big difference. I believe it all depends on the process you use and your sequence. I won't argue because there are a lot of different ways to skin a cat. My method is not necessarily the best method...it's just my method and it's an old and common one. When I sand I use a stationary belt sander with about a 150 grit belt that is fairly worn out. So I would think anything from 150 to 250 would be fine. If you are using a 600 grit belt you will probably burn the leather. If you are sanding with a dremmel I would think you would want a medium grit drum and I would error on the finer side rather than the coarse side. There is no real need to change methods on the latigo or bridle leather. However, just FYI, Gum Trag does a really good job on latigo as a slicking agent. Don't use it if you are going to dye the edges, but if they are to remain natural it works well. Also, I have been trying a new product from Sheridan Leather Outfitters called Quik Slik. It works pretty well and replaces the glycerine bar soap and the wetting of the edges, making it a little faster to use. The end result is pretty darned good. Also Greg Gomersall distributes a product which he uses as a slicking agent and it works well also. However, like Gum Trag, it is hard to dye through. I like it on latigo also! Hope this helps.... Bobby

This is a burnishing machine that is sold by Weaver Leather and I wrapped the burnishing wheel with canvas. I would guess it's running at 1750 rpms.

Hi Natalie, It appears to be the same can label as the ones I have so I am sure it is probably the same stuff. I would recommend the quart over the spray, however they are both good and I use them both. NeatLac is also available from Sheridan Leather Outfitters under their own label of WyoShene and it is also available through Panhandle Leather under the manufacturers name of ClearLac. They are all the same product that Tandy used to sell. I don't know about shipping. Hope this helps..... Bobby

Terrific thread! I have a number of unmarked tools that I would like to be able to identify. Some were sold to me as McMillans from a reputable source, but most of the others I have not idea. Like Ben, I have may that are nails which I accumulated in the late sixties and early seventies. I doubt I'll ever be able to identify their makers, but the knurled tools I'd like to know more about. Bobby

.....or you could just use NeatLac

Rondo, Here is a link tho the thread Kevin was refering to. It's definitely worth reading before you purchase a head knife. ROUND/HEAD KNIFE DISCUSSION Hope this helps..... Bobby

Thanks Warpe! Yes I do use stiffeners. I like high impact styrene and use 3, 4 & 6 mil thicknesses.

Hi Natalie and thanks! Whenever I create a new piece I make a template. Most of my bindings have the same basic shape which I freehanded and then fine tuned until I was satisfied. Then I made a template of that binding to use for layouts and for cutting pieces out of the side of leather. I'm staring to get tired of the current one I'm using and will probably make another soon, LOL! Take care..... Bobby

Just finished this pad folio. It's a roping award for the Rope Horse Futurity of America being held in conjunction with the Battle in the Saddle event going on now in OKC. The leather is 6/7 oz HO and the interior is 2/3 oz HO. Sewing is all 69 @ 11 stitches per inch. I also used a magnetic snap on the tab closure and recessed the magnet into the leaf so that it didn't protrude so high. I drew some new flowers and did some other experimenting with my vine work. The back is basket stamped and the interior has a couple of pockets and is otherwise pretty plain. All comments welcomed as always!

Here's a link to the method I use for burnishing. FINISHING EDGES 4/5 oz leather will burnish nicely. For lighter leathers I use Spinner's Dremel burnishers. BURNISHERS Hope this helps..... Bobby

Hi Ann..... I probably wait a half an hour or a little longer for the NeatLac to dry before I apply the antique and I often use a hair dryer to speed up the process. It's takes less time for the antique finish to dry. With it I continue to use clean pieces of wools skin to remove the residue until I can no longer get color off the leather. Because of the normal process of constructing the project, it is usually a day or more before I apply a final finish over the whole project. Hope this answers your question.... Take care.... Bobby

Thanks to all of you for the kind words. Your comments are truly appreciated!!!

Boy I'll say i would have liked to have been there! And I don't mind admitting he is one of the artists who I watch closely...he is a real inspiration for me for sure! Bobby

That's right Ben, I was just going to mention that Troy West, for one, makes his own trees and builds and engraves his own silver also.

I'm sure you already know this, but in case someone reading doesn't, it is important that your stropping surface be very rigid. Like Jim mentioned, 3mm (or less). I like the really dense thin card stocks. They will hold rouge but won't compress causing rounding at the cutting edge. I have really noticed the difference on my swivel knife.....I have to sharpen substantially less since I've started stropping on thin rigid materials.

Craig....I think they are valuable tools. I don't know much about the different brands, however I use mine whenever I am using light lining leathers (such as chrome tanned leather). A head knife will do the job, but sometimes the rotary cutter is easier. Bobby

Antiquing is easy. Apply NeatLac or another sealer and apply to the leather. This seals the leather so that when the antique is applied it will have even coloring. When the NeatLac (resist) is thoroughly dry, apply Fiebings paste antique (which ever color you prefer) and wipe the excess off. Follow by polishing with a trimmed wool skin...insuring that all the residue is completely removed. When the antique finish has thoroughly dried, apply a final sealer (like NeatLac) over the entire project. NeatLac will remove some of the antique finish so it is important to wipe a light coat on...discarding the wool skins which have residue on them and replacing them with clean ones. Once you have a light coat of NeatLac applied and have allowed it to dry you can follow up with a more thorough coat which doesn't "lift" the antique finish off. This is the most common method that the pro's that I know are using. Hope this helps... Bobby

I'm with you on every count, Art! I never understood the point of offering a damascus knife that isn't damascus. When they first introduced the the Stohlman line of products I thought they were going to be much higher quality line than they turned out to be. That certainly was a disappointment! I have a friend/student who bought one of the Stohlman head knives and I have to admit I was pleasantly surprised at how sharp it was. The problem of course is that it won't stay sharp! The last time that I recall Tandy carrying a professional grade tool was when they sold the "Extreme Alloy" (Henley) swivel knives. Of course no one bought them because they were too expensive and so they dropped them.

Your blade position is critical and I'll bet you're right, that's probably the biggest problem. However, I also think you are stropping too much. You can dull your blade by over stropping as quickly as you can by splitting. When you strop it is pretty tough to not "round" your edge. The same thing happens to us when we strop our swivel blade knives, utility and head knives. The only real way to prevent "rounding" is to use a jig to strop with. So you really don't want to strop unless ytou really need to. That's frustrating.....it's happened to me too! In the long run I probably ended up learning more so that now I don't need the help, but that didn't make it any less stressful, LOL!.

I agree!

I certainly understand your disappointment with the Tandy knives! I'm with you on that. At the same time it's probably only fair to remember that Tandy is primarily an entry level provider. I'm confident that they just can't produce or carry professional quality tools profitably or they would do it. There just aren't many people walking through their doors who are willing to spend $200 on a head knife. The market for professional quality tools is tiny compared to the entry level and craft market. I think a lot of people think of Tandy as being the place where everyone including the pros go for tools and that just isn't the case. In this instance, everyone is discouraging you because the learning curve on a head knife is so steep and because sharpness is such a critical part of being able to learn to use a head knife. If we were talking about rivet setters, or punches, or shears, etc., you wouldn't have heard so many objections. So I just wanted to defend Tandy a little bit and while I don't use some of their products, I understand why they carry what they do and I am glad they are there. Just my viewpoint.... Bobby

I'm with you on the gloves, Mike! I discovered though, if I do happen to get a little dye on the gloves, it doesn't soak in like it did my fingers and it's a little easier to get some on your work.

I don't share your views on pull through splitters. I just used mine to split a 5" wide piece of leather down to about 4/5 oz last night. If you can't pull a piece of 2"-3" leather through your splitter with a minimum of effort then your splitter blade is NOT sharp. I split belt blanks a lot with a pull through style splitter with no effort. Of course if I could a find a band knife splitter that I could afford, I'd have one, but until then I'm splitting with a pull through style splitter. Bobby

Acohol is the best thing to use to remove spirit based dyes from your hands. Easily obtainable and very inexpensive! I use it all the time with Fiebings dyes.

Thanks! That flower center is one of Barry Kings and then I try to enhance it a little. I like the flower center, however it was a poor choice for that particular flower.