Danne

Thank you for your compliment regarding my work. I will absolutely not mimic someone else. I construct my wallets in a way I like. But I constantly try to improve my construction. And I might pick up some tips and tricks. And also seeing how other construct their wallets can give me ideas how I can improve certain things. Chestermox products are really nice and really good attention to detail, but as example I personally don’t really like the look of full size pockets, because edges becomes thicker in the middle. So I will never do full size pockets stacked on each other. I think it can be good to take inspiration from other people but not copy someone else.

No, I have tried multiple times to order a Fratelli AV2 ME (On table without vacuum and two motors) but they keep recommending the version with vacuum even when contacted in fluent Italian. I really want the FAV, but might have to order a Fortuna instead.

Yes, you can reverse engineer something. But there are techniques for how you assemble and trim things. And I don’t talk about how to skive, I have no problem to feather skive edges on 0.5mm thin goat leather with really good precision. But there are lot more that goes into skiving, where to skive and how much. My goal is always to remove/skive edges in places where it doesn’t have a huge impact on durability. At the same time making sure the edges have a similar thickness all around the wallet even if there are more pockets on one side. look at the photos I shared from Danel. Download it and zoom in and you can see how well planned all skiving is. And this might seem easy in theory but a lot harder in practice. Maybe it’s just me, but I have spent A LOT of time figuring out constructions for wallets. And always try to find ways to improve. And I agree this book is certainly not for everyone.

Really nice of you to offer sending a sample. But I need product names of materials I try, it would be awful to find a material I like and then I can't source it again How would you describe the material, does it have any stretch? I need a small amount of stretch but with high strength for this purpose. "Velodon" is actually available in a thinner version also, produced by Freudenberg. (SH-5090) I will send Mt leather a message, he might either have a suitable material I should try, or have recommendations.

I'm quite certain it's Alran Sully goat on that wallet. I don't know what thread are used, but according to her website she use synthetic thread and you can upgrade to linen thread. The upgrade to linen thread is most likely either Fil Au Chinois or Meisi. Edge paint, I have no idea. But would guess either Fenice, Uniters, Stahl or Vernis 600.

I have watched some clips from Nigel on Youtube, and he is skilled and have a lot of knowledge. I see a wallet pack on his website with what he also say simple wallets. And when I look at his Instagram it's not really the same types of wallets. Her wallets have a slimmer style and involve quite a lot of skiving, and when you make really slim wallets it's very important to skive and construct it in correct ways to keep it durable. (This doesn't mean it's just one recipe for a good quality slim wallet) I don't think this book is for everyone, I feel confident in my construction of my wallets, which have a quite slim profile. And I feel like I will gain a lot of knowledge from her book. This doesn't mean that I will make my wallets as she does it. But when wallets/card holders and such gets thin it can get very very complicated. Here is an example from Danel (Work for Nitz, and former Hermès employee, and this is how he planned the skiving for the layers of a wallet) I see your list of things you would learn more about, and we all how different interests when it comes to this craft. Since I have experience working with very finicky machines the "Servicing and adjusting of band-knife splitters" book would be something I also would be very interested in, even though I don't even own a band knife splitter. The market saturation of wallets is true. That doesn't mean it's impossible to make a living out of selling leather wallets, but it's certainly a lot of competition.

Yes, I have no experience from woodworking except the tool board and jigs project I showed here recently. Yes I get what you mean, there will always be different opinions on how things should be made. I have never made a drawer cabinet, but I would like to do it. I would look through how other do it, and then decide how I will do it. I might not do it exactly like someone else. And I will have to sort through the information I can find and decide how I will make it. I have seen those sharpening debates, but I just find them silly in a lot of cases. If my tool is sharp enough for my purpose, and I'm happy with the edge retention then I did it in the correct way. If someone would say "Hey, I see you use this angle for your chisels, have you tried this angle instead, or have you tried a primary and secondary bevel, I think it will give you a better edge retention, then it's something I would consider to try because it could improve how I do it. But having access to information is good, then I can decide what makes sense and what doesn't. When I did my woodworking project I should have watched some woodworking clips on Youtube before. Because I bought a circle saw and a plunge router and some chisels and some router bits and wood drills, and if I would do this project again I would have a bought a smaller table saw, and a palm router with a plunge attachment instead. Does this mean I did use the wrong tools? Yes and no. I managed to achieve the result I wanted, it took a lot longer time than I would have done with other tools though. But it could also have been the wrong tools if I wouldn't have planned it well and felt confident using the tools in the way I did it.

No sure what you mean? I have no affiliation with Chestermox. Or if you mean I did this post in hope to get a free sample book. No thanks, I'm happy to pay for my book.

No, there seem to be so many different versions of Tyvek. Do you know any website where I can see a list and maybe specifications for materials used for leathergoods.

There are so much ”secrets” in leathercraft when it comes to construction and materials. I wish it was a little bit more like woodworking. Whatever furniture you would like to build, you would be able to learn the techniques needed on Youtube. And what makes you a good woodworker is to master these techniques and practice on your attention to detail. (Woodworkers here correct me if I’m wrong) But more and more really experienced crafters start to share their knowledge which is good. I even saw that Ondrej Sima (Sima Prague) have started with education. Study a week in Prague does sound quite nice

As a lot of you know I mainly focus on watch straps and card holders/wallets. I’m comparing and looking for the best possible reinforcement materials for different types of watch straps. I really like Velodon/Vildona (The two producers I know of is Freudenberg SH1220 and Jaeger 1961) I really like this for flat straps. With the reinforcement materials I have + samples, I have around 130 different materials/weights. But still looking for more to analyze. I’m very interested in thinner (0.3-0.5mm range) of syntethic salpa or other materials with the combination of high tear strength, thin and a low elongation value but not fully dimensionally stable as ”Velodon” Why elongation? Because a padded strap will fold nicer around a wrist. (My opinion of course)

I have analyzed enough of her photos to see how most parts of the wallet is constructed. But not the techniques used (Just like I do everywhere on Instagram) I have some things I would like to do different, but it would require me to be able to split leather. Since I never had any education I often do things in a very complicated way. And I’m certain there are a lot of tips and tricks on how to align things, flush cut and such. Two things she do that I don’t do. 1. Full size card pockets and fully lined. I do a relatively wide T-pocket construction and not lined. I will probably keep doing it this way but when I have a splitting solution I think I will line pockets. I personally don’t see any benefits of lining card pockets in the goat I usually use for my wallet interiors, but when combining with other types of leather like alligator I want them lined so at least for some combinations I will line all card pockets. 2. Her wallets are (X-stitched) I don’t know a better word. But they are punched with the same iron from both sides and stitched without casting the thread. The benefit with this is that it’s a lot easier to get a nice slant on both sides. On really thin leather when only punching from one side at least I have to choose which side should have the ”best slant” Another crafter that use this technique is Atelier Shiang. Also skiving is done different on her wallets, in a way I will be interested in learning because I would benefit from that construction method for other types of leather than what I use now. And I’m sure that book will give me a decent amount of ”wow moments” like ”oh I never thought about doing it that way” Most crafters do some things different. I feel confident in the durability of my wallets, but I still have a lot to learn before I would be able to do fully custom work and still keep a slim profile.

I did read through some posts here, and I'm not 100% certain but it seems like sharing this will not be against the rules. So I saw that Chestermox (Bellanie Salcedo) is taking pre-orders for a book that describes in depth how she make her fully lined bifold wallets. I think I have a quite good understanding how her wallets are constructed. But I still really want this book, because I know I will pick up a lot of techniques. The reason I share this here is for two reasons. I think a lot of other crafters here also might be interested in this book. I would say my construction knowledge is on an intermediate level, and wow how I wish this book would have been available years ago. The second reason is because I want this to be fully funded or otherwise I obviously can't get the book. I feel a little hesitant to post this. I don't gain anything from sharing this. And those who have been here for a while know that I try to answer questions and help other if I can. And I think this is a book that would be worth it's money for those interested in this type of wallets, so I think it's worth sharing. https://chestermoxatelier.com/products/the-art-book Her instagram where there are two posts about this coming book. www.instagram.com/chestermox

Thank you Scoutmom. Yes, I have an album here from when I made the jigs, a tool board and some other accessories. I have no experience working with wood, so even though most things turned out quite good. I should have bought higher quality wood, the wood I bougt at the hardware store was probably not really dried (or not dried in the correct way) it didn't really cause any big problems, except that the tool board warped slightly, but I mounted some aluminium square tubing on the back side to straighten it out and also to attach it to the wall. But I planed down the thickness of the thinner jig with a plunge router, and after oiling it warped a little bit. It works just as a good, but it annoys me so I plan to redo that jig. Here is the build album:

Also Cordovan can look really nice without any lining at all.

Thank you for your nice comment

I use a wing divider

Thank you Spyros Yes, the external panel is lined (but only glued at the edges, which I like because it gives the wallet a less rigid feel when the veg tan is vegetable tanned cow) I wouldn't recommend to do this without a test pieces first, it needs to be glued in a fully closed position, for example around a cutting board from Ikea) I have a jig I made that is 10mm thick. It's hard to explain, but when glued it's important that the lining is slightly stretched when glued in place for it to fold in a nice way. And the dimensions have to be planned well for a correct gluing distance from the edge. I would recommend a 90 degree jig or a 60 degree like the one I have to the left. Yes, the "card panels" are lined 0.5+0.5mm at 00:14 in this clip you see the back side of those panels. https://i.imgur.com/keYbhE1.mp4 I haven't used it myself, but here is an example of a wallet that have been used for a year, dimensions are almost the same. Slightly more height on this wallet because it need to fit GBP currency also. And no complaints about how it holds bills. Btw, have you seen that Chestermox (Bellanie) is going to release a book (pre-order) for making a wallet. I think I have a quite good understanding of how her wallets are constructed, but I will certainly buy the book, there are so many construction techniques I will learn from that book. Even though I think I will keep making my wallets in the way I make them, I will for certain pick up a lot of tips and tricks on how to cut things, how to make templates, how to trim panels in a better way. I mean the methods I use for my wallets is a combination of doing prototypes, looking at other crafters progress photos, and figuring out ways myself, and from years of use by friends and myself I feel confident in the durability of my wallets. But I still have a lot to learn. Edit: I get what you mean with the possible problem when you open the wallet. I can see how a wallet that is a little stiffer could "push up" the bills when opened. But I don't think that will be a problem when the wallet have been used for a short period, because the wallet will be shaped around the cards and bills.

Oh, sorry. I misunderstood. And ps, I’m not trying to start to argue about this, I hope it wasn’t your impression.

But you did some ”advertisement” for Tandy recently.

No I don’t sell the edge paint applicator. but he doesn’t sell leather from Districtleathersupply?

I don't really see the problem here. Campleathergoods show what leather he did order from Districtleathersupply. I would say it's useful information. I often see people ask for good sources of leather, so good value for someone to see what you get when you order from in this example Districtleathersupply, and it opens up for discussion. I have never ordered anything from them since I live in Europe, but even though prices are quite high (here in Europe also when you buy smaller panels and with splitting) I wish we had more options here in Europe when it comes to buy smaller amounts and get it split, it's worth paying a higher price for in my opinion. But an interesting question for those who see this as advertising. I recently made a post where I talked about Ksblades edge paint applicator, was it advertisement? If I would tell someone to not buy a Regad Filetuse in US (because they are crazy overpriced) and instead buy from Mando in France, would it be advertisement for Mando? If I buy a leather machine and make a Youtube clip and show people here how the machine looks and what you get, is it advertisement or can it be useful for someone?

Thank you

I have no experience with making bags, but I have seen some crafters use Alcantara as lining. Maybe worth checking out some samples and see if it would suit your needs?

Thank you, On this wallet I "stabbed/punched" out the top of the pockets shape with a Japanese skiving knife, and cut the rest with a snap-off knife. (Olfa SAC-1)