Danne

This is how I would do it. Top layer skive the transition so they overlap each other. Reinforcement (Velodon/Vildona, or some nylon reinforcement) Lining

Yes, I think it’s mainly for dust collection. At least according to those I talked too. And that will not be a problem, I mean I do this as a hobby. No a Scharffix will not work. For stiffer leather used for watch straps it would work. But I need to be able to split for example goat leather for wallets down to around 0.5mm.

I have talked to a couple of crafters today who use skiving machines without vacuum, and one of them have even compared with a machine with vacuum and he didn't feel like he needed a vacuum, and he is one of the best crafters out there and use his machine a lot. So I think I will start with a machine without vacuum, and since I will buy either a Fortuna or FAV, I will be able to sell it for around the same money I payed for it if I would feel the need to upgrade. Also, I can't really see how it would be rocket science to just 3d-print an attachment for vacuum if needed.

Can you elaborate why you wish you had a vacuum?

So I have a hard time to decide if I should get a machine with a vacuum or not. And the reason is limited space. So I would appreciate some recommendations from those of you who have skiving machines. I will mainly use it with a rubber feed wheel to split leather for watch straps and for small things like wallets and card holders. (mostly combination tanned and chrome tanned, like Alran goat and Perlinger Noblessa and similar leather, but also some veg tan for watch straps. And exotics (Alligator/crocodile) This discussion is not meant to discuss how hard it is to split with a skiving machine, but if it's even an option with a machine without vacuum? The thing is right now I have space to "fold in" a skiving machine without vacuum to the left of the white cabinet (first photo) In case I would go for a skiving machine with vacuum, it will be too wide, and I will have to remove the white cabinet (where I have my computer) and in that case build a frame for my table and skiving machine, and also move my computer. A lot of work with welding, transporting the frame for powder coating and such. And with a machine with vacuum I will have to use 3-phase 400V and it's not really a problem except if I would move to another apartment without incoming 3-phase in the apartment (but not that common here) , unless I buy a new machine which I could get as single phase 230V , but would prefer to buy a used one since I feel it's a waste of money to buy a new machine, when it's a quite simple machine to service if needed (Or I don't feel intimidated by it) My desk right now: The plan if I will go with a machine with vacuum. (It will be either a Fortuna or a Fratelli Alberti.

You are looking for a roller presser foot? Since you are located in US I would check with https://campbell-randall.com/ Or since you according to your earlier post own a Consew. Have you checked with them? https://www.consew.com/

The sizing (#69, #92 and #138) is specific to sewing machine thread? I'm not familiar with that terminology since I don't use a sewing machine. Also not sure about suppliers and prices in US. But Amann Serafil have 240 colors, and prices are good (at least here in Europe) A very durable thread. I know it's a thread that is popular in the European automative industry for car interiors. https://www.colliniatomi.it/en/catalogsearch/result/?q=serafil

It took me years of practice before people where interested in buying from me, or at least willing to pay for the hours I spend on making something. Now I get requests now and then (even though I mention I don't sell anything and the reason is that I don't have a splitting solution, which I need to be able to stock a range of different leather to choose from) But as an intermediate crafter (I guess I fit in there) I would need to learn more techniques and being able to offer more custom products to be able to make a living out of leathercraft. With that said, I think just selling cheap to get their money back to be able to buy more leather can be a good thing, especially if someone is making larger items. But when it comes to more "simple constructions" there are so many crafters out there so the competition is hard. I think it can be a good choice to try to focus on being really good at making a certain products, and not trying to make everything. For me the main goal is watch straps, everything from flat straps, to padded straps, to straps with special inserts for watches with unique lug fittings. But it will take time, because even though it might look simple (which I thought in the beginning) making for example a durable but soft padded strap isn't super easy. And I want to make really high quality constructed straps, so I spend a lot of time trying different materials and construction techniques. But slowly I get better and better. And watch straps are a very good example of a product that doesn't require a lot of expensive tools. Sure you can buy expensive tools for quick release spring bars, you can buy electric creasers, expensive hole punches, but even with relatively cheap tools it's possible to make nice straps with practice. And the cost of leather is low.

Of course there will be things you can't do as a beginner if you start with a very limited budget. And for someone with a very limited budget (which this thread is about) it's possible to buy punches when they are needed. And not everything you do requires a lot of punches. I just recently bought a set of high quality hole punches, before that I had a revolving hole punch. Found it in a leather shop, the name is Stahl and produced in Germany, and I payed 20euro. The main reason I bought a set, was because I needed smaller holes than my revolving hole punch could make. I could have bought one SPC (Chinese made) hole punch, instead of a quite expensive set and it would have worked fine for me right now. You may find this a little bit rude, but I'm not really sure if you are living in the same world as I do. An example. Some of us who do this only as a hobby could buy a new band knife splitter, but choose not too because it's hard to justify for hobby use, but it wouldn't be a big investment. For a lot of people it would be a big investment though. And I don't think 500usd is a big budget for starting a new hobby. I just recently did a small woodworking project and had no woodworking tools. Just basic things in decent quality did cost a lot more (I didn't buy the cheapest tools, but not Festool either) But nothing of this matter for a person who doesn't have 500usd. As an example I think in Vietnam the average income is around 350usd/month. (Yes it's not the same CPI, and it's cheaper to live there) But i'm quite certain there are a lot of people there who can't pay 500usd to start with a new hobby. If we talk about US instead, there are a lot of people who need multiple jobs to pay for rent, and put food on the table. This was the reason I wrote this topic. Because I'm sure there are a lot of people who visit this place, and wish they could start this hobby, and practice and become good enough to be able to start selling, or just because they enjoy to craft things. And then they see recommendations of tools that cost way too much, and even a set of budget Japanese tools are over their budget. And they feel like they need those tools to start, which is not true. Is it better to spend a little bit more on beginner tools if someone can afford it? Yes, but buying really expensive tools as a beginner isn't the best idea either in my opinion. When I started this craft I bought cheaper tools (Mostly Japanese budget tools) not because I couldn't afford the expensive ones. But because I wasn't sure if this was a hobby for me or not. And if I would have bought for example a really expensive set of pricking irons instead of the ones I bought from Goodsjapan, I would have bought Japanese style pricking/punching irons, which would have been a mistake because I prefer the "European style"

But I guess you had to sharpen it? Because at least when I bought that punch set years ago, it was far from a hole punch. The "cutting edge" was 0.3mm thick.

Yes, I agree with you. But even though it might be cheap to spend let's say a 2-300euro to start crafting with some decent tools. That will be A LOT of money for someone who barely have money to buy food. And I'm certain there are people visiting this forum who which they could start crafting, but then they see expensive pricking irons, electric creasers, and they can't afford to buy these tools. So they look at budget Japanese tools, but still too expensive, and they see it as impossible to start crafting. But with very little money most people can start making small things like watch straps, and practice stitching/edge finishing/creasing on scrap leather. And it's certainly possible to make really nice things with those really cheap tools. And I wouldn't recommend people to start with these tools I posted if they can afford to spend 100-200euro. My whole point was that most people can start crafting, and once they sell a couple of straps they can buy nicer leather and invest in some better tools with the profit.

The main reason I did this strap was to push my limitations for cutting with precision. And I was absolutely not certain that I would manage to cut it with enough precision. But even if I would have failed it would have been good because then I would have to practice more and finding better solutions to solve the problem. That's one of the reasons I like watch straps. I mean making a prototype that have a high chance to fail on a large bag can be quite expensive in material cost. Also I like using scrap pieces for testing and learning. Let's say someone find it hard to cut rounded corners. If that person do it on wallets the result will be better with time. But also when you do it on a project you tend to stick to the method you feel most comfortable with. If that person would cut 10 small scrap pieces then different methods could be tried to see what works and what doesn't.

Thank you

Yes dark brown and orange goat leather.

When I make wallets I pre-punch the exterior before assemble and then use an awl to open up the holes when assembled. And which pricking iron I use wouldn't really matter. Sure I like the ergonomy or Ksblade, they feel good in my hand, and they are easy to align. But the only real time where slim pricking/punching irons where I can punch all the way through, and with polished teeth really shine is when I make thin watch straps and punch all the way through. When I use an awl I personally don't see any difference in the result.

I would put it on the edge of my desk, use a long ruler and a clamp to hold down the ruler at the start (and if you feel like you need too, a clamp at the end also. Then there are two choices. Make a secondary shallow cut and a primary cut, or use a rotary cutter. When you are cutting follow along with your hand and put pressure on the ruler right in front of where you are cutting.

There are a lot of high quality tools and other things made in China also. Kevinlee make and resell some really good tools as an example. One of the best leathercraft threads are made by Meisi in China. A lot of the parts in your Techsew is made in China. And there are a lot of tools made in other places that are more expensive and not suitable for a beginner. Let’s take an example, a Blanchard awl is certainly not Suitable for a beginner, unless that person have experience from other crafts and can reshape/sharpen/polish the awl. Yes the steel quality is probably really good, but a new awl from Blanchard is more or less useless unless before you have finished the tool. Let’s take another example. Without having used them, I would certainly buy SPC hole punches instead of a lot of European (Germany France) or made in US, just by looking at the photos (talking about hole punches for fine leatherworking.

Yes, and regarding skiving knives, we also have to consider how it will be used. As a hobbyist or for some skiving sometimes. If someone skive a lot everyday a good edge retention can be nice. The awl I use the most is a Kyoshin Elle I think. And it's modified from diamond to "flat" and it doesn't bend and it stays sharp very well. Now I only use it for thinner leather on wallets and card holders.

I see it like this, if someone can't make a decent quality leather product with cheap tools, then the problem isn't the tool it's the crafter. When someone can make a decent product with cheap tools that person can certainly benefit from more expensive tools. (Higher quality steel and better shaped tools and such) Regarding awls, I prefer Seiwa and Kyoshin Elle over Blanchard, and the reason is the blade is so wide on the smallest Blanchard so it takes so much time to reshape it. Sure it might be better steeel in Blanchard I have no idea, but I rarely sharpen my cheaper Japanese awls. The main reason for this post wasn't to recommend people to buy the absolute cheapest tools they can find. When someone have asked me for recommendations for tools for making watch straps as an example. And they can spend a little bit more, I often recommend tools from leathercrafttools. But we have to keep in mind, 100euro can be a small amount of money for someone, it can be a lot of money for someone else. And for someone who have very limited amounts of money to spend but still want to try this craft, and are willing to wait a little bit for shipping, it's still possible to try this hobby and make nice things on a low budget. You may have seen my post about my tool board and jigs I made. I could afford buying Festool machines, and a nice table saw and nice miter saw station. But I haven't worked with fine woodworking before. So I decided to buy medium quality circle saw and a plunge router. Even if I would keep making things in wood, I could still have a use for these tools if I upgrade. But buying those super expensive tools would have been a very bad move, because I don't really know what type of tools I would prefer. As an example, a plunge router wasn't the best choice, a palm router with a plunge attachment would have been better. Now it wasn't a big deal because I didn't pay for a "premium machine."

From me?

I have a couple of questions. How does the flesh side of your leather look? is it very "furry"? How do you apply contact cement? a thin layer on both pieces and let it dry until tacky? If you don't flush cut your edge and sand it, do you instantly start to sand after glue? and what direction do you sand along the edge or across the edge? Do you hammer down or press the edges after gluing together?

I have no experience with the #400 stone. And the stone I have might be a decent stone but maybe not suitable for the steel in my knives, hence the reason the 6000 side clogs up. I had to flatten my stone all the time, and if I didn't it took a lot of time to make it flat again. That Shapton set seems like something that could be suitable for me also. 320 for reshaping an edge. 1000 and 4000 for regular sharpening.

But not everyone have the money to spend on decent quality tools, but still want to try this hobby. It's certainly possible to learn and make nice things with super cheap tools, and then maybe sell a few items and slowly upgrade tools. But buying kits is usually not a good idea, usually a lot of tools you might not need. Better to buy the tools you need for what you are making. When I started this craft I could have made a huge mistake buying expensive tools and material. But I agree with buying decent quality, if you can afford it, it's a better choice. I still use a lot of the tools I bought from Japanese brands like Seiwa, Kyoshin Elle and such. The main reason I might update my skiving knives to Okada, Palosanto awls, is mainly because of nice wood and the feeling of the tools. It's not that I need that Palosanto awl, I buy Japanese budget awls and reshape them and they do they work perfectly. Another example when it comes to material. In the beginning I used Ritza25 thread, I was thinking about buying all colors in full spools, it would have been a mistake because I don't like that thread at all anymore. I prefer Meisi linen and Meisi Xiange twist, and in thinner versions than Ritza.

The prices of these tools are from Aliexpress. And I might have missed a usd on the skiving knife. Yes maybe I bought that wing divider somewhere else, it was a long time ago. I don't see it as the best option to buy these tools, I also don't see it as a good option to start with the most expensive tools. As an example if I would have bought Ksblade when I started this craft I would maybe have bought the Japanese style in 8spi, and the largest spi I use now is 9spi and European style, so it would have been a waste of money. The reason I did this post was because some people can't afford to buy medium quality tools from for example leathercrafttools.com and then they think they can't start crafting leather.

I never use manual creasers, and are used to heat with my electric creaser. But for veg tan I can see how it can be a good solution.