JSage

WOW! Outstanding! Thanks for showing.

Great idea! And impressive work! I've found brass washers at Lowes and True Value Hardware.

The ever lasting question. I am from and in Wyoming, AKA the "Cowboy State". On almost any given day you can walk into a local restaurant in any small town, even our biggest ones here, and see one or more folks with their spurs on. You will also see there is a wide variation of the of the buckles and location. There is no right or wrong. It is a personal preference of the owner and also up to the design of the maker. Some are on the outside, some are on the inside. A lot of them are more on top, to one side or the other of the instep. Its up to you, as the maker where you want to accent the strap, (Put the Bling). Do you want to showoff your carving? Buckle on the inside. Do you want to use a sparkly big buckle? Then its on the outside. How about a fancy Concho and sparkly buckle? Inside or top. What ever you, or more importantly the customer wants. Unless is for a US Calvary soldier or reenactor. As per US Army regulations - "The strap will be fastened over the instep of the footgear in such a manner that the buckles face the outside of the boot."

Thanks Dwight! I'll wear that handle with pride. "An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper

No, sorry OldNSlow, I didn't take one. And I don't know what I did with that "extension". It may have found the trash. "An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper

Although Dwight's Solution would probably be stronger, I too didn't want to permanently alter my blue gun. So, took a chunk of hard wood and rough shaped it ( on the belt sander) then finish trimmed it with my pocket knife to final shape so that when placed on the front of the round guard, it mimicked the Squair guard on my son's pistol. I temporarily attached it with contact cement and used black tape to secure it. Worked for me. The tape and glue came off without much effort and a little rub down with peroxide cleaned up what little residue that was left. "An unarmed man can only flee from evil, and evil is not overcome by fleeing from it." -Col. Jeff Cooper

OH MY GOSH!!! Unbelievable! What, do you sleep with those carving tools????

I'm no expert by any stretch, but I can attest that you would be surprised in the difference in the quality of good leather, (read spendy), and many of the cheaper imports. Yes, it's worth the cost. Even Tandy has varying leather quality and pricing to match. I would agree with Dwight, stay away from the shoulder for now. You can buy small sections of quality side leather in differing weights from places like Weaver. Or even cheaper, pieces of decent practice leather from supply houses like Tandy in project packs like their coster rounds. I use all three of the discussed methods of casing the leather. The bath, mist spray and damp sponge. Depending on the project or stage Im at in the project I may use all three. Usually at least the bath and damp sponge method.

Looking really nice!! Please post more photos of it when you have it finished. Oh, and ditto what Dwight said.

Wow! Just beautiful.

Absolutely Outstanding! May I ask, what die and color did you use, and did you die the ( very clean ) edges with the same die? JS

HaHaHa, I understand, but I can mess up real bad too, and I dont need a drill to do it!

Ohhh, OK I gotcha now! Makes sense. I woulda never thought of that, might have ta try it myself. I've been wondering about the ways to make a dyed item thats stitched with various colored thread, (ie, black or dark brown holster with bright red or light blue thread). Thank you sir!

OK, Make the video! Please?

dougfergy, I'm trying to follow you, but how do you form or wet mold a sheath or holster before you stitch, or even glue?

Constabulary, Thank you! I understand what your saying, and am afraid you may be right. I have not yet actually checked on Adler prices, but have read they are very spendy compared to others. I will have to look into the roller foot a little more. You cant really see it in the photos I posted, but the machine currently has a left zipper type foot on it. I would like to have both a right zipper type and a center foot to use as when the situation allows. I would also like to acquire a holster plate, or another standard plate that I can the build into a holster type plate. Just a few things on my wish list. By the way, I think your profile picture is great, always have gotten a kick out of it. Wiz, Great information, Thank you! I will get some measurements and contact them. Thank you for you writings on leather sewing machines. They are, honestly, a wealth of information! JD

If you haven't, read this post by "Wizcrafts" " The Type Of Sewing Machine You Need to Sew Leather" Posted under leather sewing machines. Its a wealth of information and may answer some of your questions. Was a great help to me. JD

Thank you Shoepatcher. Would you happen to know, would 205-64 or 205-74, or even cowboy 205 feet or plates fit?

Yup, I agree. But, you can get some good information, you just have to pick through it,

Bert51, Mikesc, I cant thank you enough. In doing some web research the past couple days I found you are absolutely correct, this machine is indeed an Adler 105. I don't know the dash number but possibly 64. I have found a downloadable copy of the operators guide and parts diagram ( in German, oh well, nice assembly diagram ) from the Adler site. There is a photo of this machine as new with the Adler decal, and on a stand like I have. Its on Pintrest and the unit looks new. There is also a Youtube video of one for sale with both the Adler decal and the Sutton badge on it. Its also on the stand. Unfortunately he does a terrible job showing the back of the stand where the drive components are. This drive uses a standard electric motor with a variable width v-belt pulley liken to a snow machine drive. This belt drives a two pulley speed reducer setup on a jack shaft that belt drives the machine head. The clutch is part of the large v-pulley of the speed reducer, you can adjust the speed of the motor somewhat by a knob on the front of the cabinet that rises and lowers the motor changing the diameter of its drive pulley. It sounds more complicated than it is. This machine was in daily use until about a month ago when the previous owner closed the doors of his saddle shop. I then got it at their sale. It has years of accumulated dust dirt and dried oil built up on the machine and in the stand and drive components. When I get it cleaned up and back in service, I'll post a couple photos. Now to figure out what makers accessories like presser feet or drive plates and such will fit an Adler 105. I'm going to have to find a Mercedes hood ornament and mount it on top. It'll be the closest thing to a Unamog I'll ever have. Thanks again for all the help! JD

Humm, always wanted a Mercedes, a Unamog. Thanks! I'll look up the Adler. Thanks also. JD

Here are photos of the Sutton. If a different view is wanted let me know and hopefully I'll remember how I did this. Again, thanks for the help!! And thanks to the "How to post pictures" topic! JD

Thank you Northmount. Yes, I'll put up some photos, ( soon as I figger out how). Cant believe I forgot the model number. Its "H-L", and the unique stand, also a Sutton is model no PMS-MH. JD

Hello All, I recently acquired a Sutton free or cylinder arm heavy duty sewing machine, manufactured by Sutton Shoe Machine Co. of St Lewis Mo. I am looking for any and all information I can get for this machine. So far internet search has given nothing except apparently Sutton used to be part of Landis. I have written Landis and am waiting their reply. I also hope to find what current brands parts would fit, that I may use for replacement or accessory (presser foot, bobbins, plates etc.). Oh and what needle system. This machine looks very similar to a Cowboy 4500, Techsew 5100 or Cobra class 4 with old singer body styling. Thank you, any help is appreciated. (Yup, second posting of same content, screwed up the first one)