PAMuzzle

I recently bought the Cowboy CB 4500. I watched as it was threaded and the thread was left in to follow when I got it home. To make sure I got it right I watched YouTube videos. This morning I watched 5 videos and saw 5 DIFFERENT ways to thread it. I had taken a leather holster class with Chris Andre “Slickbald” and used the Cobra Class 4. I found his video on threading the Cobra as well as Cobra Steve’s video. They were both the same. I decided to use the Cobra way. Question 1: Since the Cobra and Cowboy are based on the same style, is there any problem threading the Cowboy like the Cobra? Question 2: If I use #346 thread, can I use it for top thread as well as bobbin thread using a #26 needle? Thanks for any help.

I tried using Tokonole to smooth the flesh side of a western holster. It worked great, made it real smooth. However, when I wet the leather to fold it to sew the seam, the Tokonole turned liquidy again. It had been drying for over 3 days. I let it get tacky and burnished again. Should I finish it with Resolene or Tan Kote before going any further?

Hey guys thanks. I was thinking of going up to the 346 but did not want to use smaller thread on bottom. Prefer they are the same size. Glad I can use 346 in both. Got the machine yesterday and tried some samples. I thought they looked pretty good... for an amateur:

Thanks guys. I will be ordering the 4500 today. I will be sewing western holsters and gun belts. 9 oz to 16 oz. With hand stitching I was using 5 cord linen thread, similar to Barbours which shows as being .8 or .9 1. What thread/needle combination would you recommend? 2. Would you recommend same size thread for top and bobbin? 3. I read somewhere that a special needle is needed to sew straight stitch instead of zig-zag. Is that true?

Expecting to get new Cowboy 4500 soon. Is it possible to use this machine without thread to punch holes to hand stitch when desired? I think it would take less time than using awl or a drill press with nail or needle. Also, can linen thread be used? For making Period Correct Western Holsters

Thanks for your input guys.

Was told by a leather worker friend of mine to make the inner liner on a western gun belt rough side out so that it will not slip when worn? All that I have seen has been grain side out. Any comments for or against this theory?

thanks chuck123

Thanks Dwight, I have those DVD’s. I haven’t watched it for awhile and didn’t remember if he put a finish over the oil.

Thanks all. I have used Resolene before also but never 50/50. I will try that. Here's a pic of what it looked like before I oiled it.

I made this holster a couple years ago for mself but never finished it. I decided to try Pure Neatsfoot Oil. This is the color it came out. I like the rich brown color and the fact that it looks used. I have not put anythng on it except one coat of NF oil. What should I finish it with or leave as is?

Newby...it is a dark walnut color now after re-staining and finished with shellac.

Finishing up the gluing. I inserted 2 rare earth (molybdenum) magnets to each side, under the leather, for a way to hold needles when taking a break from sewing

fredk...yes it was a lot of work, but I enjoyed it...hardest part was removing clamp after epoxy putty set. It swelled and was very difficult to remove. I put plastic tape around so epoxy would not stick. Sanded it open so the clamp now goes in easily. LetterT: not sure. I have just seen/used veg tan. I have already glued the veg tan on....hmmm. Then again chrome would have allowed dyed color to match the wood color....hmmm.

Thanks fredk and Mattsbagger, will work on it tonight. JD62 I bought it at an antique store in Virginia. It is a J.D Randall Co. Cincinnatti, OH. Apparently it was a lefty... then someone drilled and chiseled the hole for the clamp post, decades ago, to make it a right handed. Seat was completely split down the center... they put metal bands around each end and across the bottom. leather strap was old and crusty. I removed the bands, glued the seat and used 2 part epoxy putty to fill in the big hole where the clamp post was. I formed the putty around the post now the hole fits it perfectly, instead of flopping around. I cut a new strap for it. Re-glued a couple loose leg cross members, restained and finished. Now getting to glue the leather on the clamp. Will post pic when done.

Fredk, Thanks. The adhesive that you use on top of PVA, is that also PVA or contact cement?

I Love the tooling and the color. What color is it and how did you apply? Full strength or diluted? Thanks Doug

I have an antique stitching horse that I am repairing and I want to glue leather onto the clamp. I am using 3oz/4oz veg tan glued with contact cement. Should I dampen the leather to form it easier around the sharp bends as I am gluing or just press and hold till cement takes hold. Also, should I use two coats on the wood as I do when just gluing leather?

Thanks to all. Think I will stick to less deep for more realistic Western period style. Found this on another thread From Steve 75 -

If making a "period correct" or wishing it comes out that way, how deep should carving go into the leather? Sheridan carving is fairly deep to my understanding and a lot of pull ups on leaves and petals. Did western holsters have that intricate work or was it less deep and closer to just scratching the surface. Similar to a cowboy scratching in a design in the bunk house or on the trail?

Thank you, both.

Does anyone know the part number for the screws that hold the Singer 29-4 to the treadle base and where I might purchase them? I am missing all 4 and would like to get originals. I am pretty sure they are 10-28 size, which do not seem to be available these days.

Looks like this equals about 1 oz dye to 15 oz oil. Also, I just played my John Bianchi holster video and he says to place Suntan Lamps over your finishing table, the same type used in tanning studios, and it will replicate the heat and UV factor of daylight and give your leather a nice finish. Anyone who has the video, it is on the last dvd when he is putting on the second coat of neatsfoot oil.

Dwight...couple a questions. When you sew the edges do you cut the groove with an edge groover or just emboss a groove without cutting into the leather? Also, I am getting ready to make holes in a 2 layer gunbelt (about 14 oz). The guy gave me his old belt with a shield buckle. The belt is 8 oz and measures 39 inches from the fold to the hole for the buckle (41.5 inches from the buckle prong). Would I just transfer this measurement to the new 14 oz belt, or is there some special math that I've seen on here to add for thicker belts? If I wrap the belts into a circle like around the waist, with his belt inside the new belt, the measurement changes by 1 1/2 inches longer.

hey JLS...question on stitch line comment... do you mean that you stitch right up tight to the gun? I'm still trying to learn.