• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

About ABR

  • Rank

Profile Information

  • Location
    Coalville, Utah
  • Interests
    Leather and wood working, Hiking, camping, cross country skiing, shooting, photography, and fishing.

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    variety of leather work.
  • Interested in learning about
    Tooling, becoming more professional in all areas.
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?

Recent Profile Visitors

391 profile views
  1. ABR

    Threading the needle

    Get the book from Tandy Leather by Al Stohlman "The Art of Hand Sewing Leather" it gives detailed instructions on tapering the thread, waxing and threading the needles.
  2. Thanks bikermutt07, I figured these would be less work than sheaths made on the wood forms, but it is about sixes. I don't like the black thread on black leather as much as I do contrasting thread, but I guess if you like the subdued look it is okay. The drum dyed leather is pretty stiff to work with but after neatsfoot oil is applied it loosens up some. One thing about the Herman Oak leather the edges burnish quite easy. I am going to make some more with contrasting thread.
  3. Thanks for your reply Rockoboy, Here are a few pictures of my forms with the (HDO) High Density Overlay plywood. For the base I use 3/4" plywood and fasten the inside form to it. I use the center piece cut out for the inside form. For 6 to 7 ounce leather I make 1 table saw blade width on each side to allow for the leather thickness. If you use 7 to 8 or 8 to 9 ounce leather the cut will have to be more than 1 table saw blade width. Then using a band saw cut the inside radiuses to finish cutting out the inside form. Then cut the outside radiuses to finish cutting the outside form. A piece of plywood is fastened across the legs with screws to hold the outside form to the right width. The piece of plywood fastened across the legs also gauges the outside form to the right distance for the bottom of the leather sheath. I adjust the inside form to the thickness of the knife by adding plastic laminate (1/16")or Masonite (1/8" or 1/4") to the bottom of the inside form then screw it to the 3/4" plywood base. I use a 3/16" round over bit in a router to round the corners where the leather bends over them on the inside form. The rounded corners make a nice looking appearance on the outside of the leather. This is close cutting with the table saw so safety is a major concern. You have to mark where the saw cut should end on the bottom side on top so you can stop before the blade gets into the area for the radiuses on bottom. I case the leather over night then I mold it with my hands and rub sticks so it sits on the form where it should then I clamp it in place. If you are making a pancake sheath the leather needs to be wider to allow for the belt loops.
  4. I have used various methods of edge finishing over the years. On good quality vegetable tanned leather I have had good results with just dye and a wood burnishing wheel. Lately on leather that is harder to burnish and good vegetable tanned leather, I use an electric drill to power the wood wheels and I have used Barry King's Quick Slick. It works pretty good. Another liquid that I have found to work really good is Fiebing's Neutral Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Dye the edges (may take more than one coat) if needed and apply the Atom Wax with a dauber and let it dry for a little while then burnish with a wood wheel in the electric drill or bench grinder. Then I apply some Bee's Wax and run it again on the burnishing wheel. You can apply Resolene or Tan Coat over that. Thanks ABR
  5. I posted a picture of a shot gun shell belt that I made on March 24, 2018 under Gun Holsters, Rifle Slings and Knife Sheaths. Hand stitched and it holds 20 shells. You may be interested in it.
  6. I stamp the knife holders while they are on the forms, when the leather is dry enough to hold the stamp shape. My forms are made of maple or high density overlay concrete form plywood. I was a contractor for 40 years and did a lot of concrete work. I have a few scraps of the plywood left. It is available in 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4" and possibly 1 1/8" thicknesses, 4' x 8' sheets. It is pretty expensive. It would last for a lot of pours if taken care of. If you would like I can put some pictures of my forms on the web site. Thanks for your interest, ABR
  7. I looked at your youtube videos, you have a nice shop and your finished products on the Wild Harry web site are very high quality. . Mine shop is a small room in our basement, pretty crowded.
  8. That is a good looking rifle sling, The lining on mine was made from chrome tanned cow hide, tanned here in Utah by a tannery that is out of business now. We used to be able to have our own hides tanned there. The length and range should work good.
  9. Using Tyvek is a real innovative idea. It is a lot more durable than light fabric and holds a crease really well. You can buy a smaller quantity of Tyvek on Amazon so you don't have to buy a whole roll. There is no movement in the Tyvek so there is no sound or noise, it is creased real flat. There is a story about how I came to sew the way I do. I don't have as much slope in the stitches as the British Saddle stitch, but I only use a pricking iron on thin soft leather and I pierce the holes as I go one at a time using the smallest awl blade that will allow the needles to go threw leather without catching on the leather. I also taper the ends of the thread so I can use smaller needles. On the 277 thread I am using a #4 harness/saddlers needle.
  10. I used the card holder system that Aaron from Maker's Leather Supply uses. It is Tyvek Building Wrap bonded to the leather with 1/4" double side adhesive tape. Aaron doesn't sew the Tyvek to the leather, but I just want to make sure that the tape doesn't let go in the future some time. You can see the system Aaron uses on his Youtube videos under Maker's leather Supply. He also sells the acrylic plastic templates for 3 different wallets, very professional made with a laser. Here is a picture of the back. I didn't make the beat selection of the horse hide and there are a few imperfections in the leather. The Horse Butts are seconds so there are some grain issues in some of them. You can see a better example of Horse Butt leather on another post I make under Passport Card holder wallet. Thank you ABR
  11. I forgot to include in the description that I purchased the acrylic plastic templates for Passport Holders, Bifold Wallets and Roper Wallets from Aaron at Maker's Leather Supply. The templates save all of the time for trial and error and making prototypes. They are cut out with a lazer and are very high quality. He has an excellent system for card holders using Tyvek building wrap and 1/4" double stick adhesive tape. I sewed the Tyvek just under the card slot with #92 thread so it would never come off. That may not be necessary but just to make sure. Aaron has Youtube videos showing how to use the templates under Maker's Leather Supply. ABR
  12. Thank you. It came from Maverick Leather in Bend, Oregon. They substituted it for some other burgundy leather that I ordered, very good leather I not complaining.
  13. Thank you. The over all length is 41 3/8 inches/105 cm. Here are the width dimensions so you can get the same taper on the sling. The widest part is at 9 5/8 inches/24.4 cm from the top end and it narrows back to 1 inch at 30 1/2 inches from the top end. The widest part is 2 3/8 inches/6 cm. They are made for 1 inch sling swivels. Hope this will help you. ABR
  14. These are Black folded knife sheaths made from 6 to 7 oz. Herman Oak drum dyed leather from Springfield Leather. All are hand stitched, then cased and shaped to fit specific width and thicknesses of knives. Some knives are different lengths so the snap on the flap will be set when they are purchased.