Leather Bum

Trevor, that looks like a neat way to install the snaps. What type of snap is that that you use (size or whatever)? And how thick is the strap at the buckle end when snapped together? Thanks much. L'Bum

Ok, what do you use to finish leather that's been treated with vinegaroon? My leather (after Lexol and Fiebing's Saddle Oil) seems to come out with a sort of flat black look, and I want to make it a little shinier and sort of seal and protect it. However, as others here have noted, after vinegaroon, the leather appears to achieve a somewhat water-resistant aspect. I've tried Bee Natural RTC, Fiebing's Leather Sheen, and Tandy Satin Shene, and they all seem to give a white/grayish look to the surface when the leather is bent -- making me think they are not adhering/soaking into the leather properly due to it's water-resistance. What can I do to fix the leather back so it will accept finishes the way it's supposed to? I'd like to have a good, protective, lasting finish on top. It's actually kind of strange the way the leather becomes after I apply the vinegaroon -- almost seems as if it isn't the same type of leather anymore. . .? L'Bum

I think Chuck Burrows says you need to clean the oil off of the steel wool before putting it in the vinegar. I don't know what the reason is for this; does anyone else? I don't have acetone (which I think is what he recommended for this), so I just attempted to wash off some #0000 steel wool with water and other cleaners. I don't think the oil was cleaned off sufficiently (I can now see oil of some sort floating on the top of the liquid), but I submerged three (I think) steel wool pads in apple cider vinegar anyway and covered the top of the jar with some folded plastic wrap with several holes in it. After just a few days, I could dip leather in or use a wool dauber to apply the solution to the leather, rinse it off, oil it, and it became quite black. It's actually a rather fascinating reaction -- a very cool process. Anyway, that's my experience so far. L'Bum

Ah yes, I should have been clearer. I meant, when using the sizing belt to obtain the proper size to make a belt for someone, do you have them tighten the sizing belt a little too tight or tell them to make it comfortable, in order to correct for any stretch in the new belt you'll be making? Thanks, Rayban, I was figuring it might work the way you said. I was just wondering if there's something else you might do to make sure it will fit right. L'Bum

The sizing belt seems like a great way to get the correct measurement. But how do you guys adjust for any stretch in the leather as the belt is "broken in"? Do you have the person buckle the sizing strap where it feels a little too tight, or do you go with the hole that feels just right. . . or what? L'Bum

Are there any advantages to using brass hardware over zinc? I'm just trying to get an idea if one type is actually better than the other for belt buckles, etc. I thought I had heard that brass hardware was stronger/tougher/better for using with leather, but I would like to know for sure. . . L'Bum

Heh, yeah I think that's a little too elaborate though. L'Bum

Thanks, everyone, for the responses so far. Here's a site that was brought to my attention, and perhaps others here might find it useful: Buckleguy. It's apparently operated by the International Advisory Service company as a means for people to buy smaller quantities of some of their products (exactly what I was hoping for ). However, I've been informed that the buckles are unfortunately made in Asia. L'Bum

Where does everyone get their belt buckles from? Does anyone know of a supplier for high-quality belt buckles? I've been looking for where to purchase roller buckles I can use for 1" and wider belts (1-1/2" work belts for example), but I do not want any made in China or someplace like that (I'd really actually prefer them to be made in the US). Any help with this would be appreciated. L'Bum

Here's a topic by Bruce Johnson detailing curved basket stamping: Curved Basket Stamping. It seems to me you would have to use a much smaller stamp for your piece. L'Bum

Thanks, Freak, for that great coloring step-by-step. So you used a brush to shade everything? Wow, I've contemplated that method, but it seems quite time-consuming. Yours certainly looks excellent. L'Bum

Freak, that looks like quite the exquisite paintball gun tank cover. . . It's quite nicely done indeed. How exactly did you dye it? Thanks for posting. L'Bum

Bruce, That's a very cool-looking holster. I really like the color and stitching. Can we see a picture of the back, please? Thanks for posting this. . . L'bum

Does anyone know where one can obtain the "colorless harness dressing"? L'Bum

I bought these wing dividers from Traditional Woodworker. They seem to be pretty nice so far, and they are not made in China or Taiwan. L'Bum

Thanks for the reply, Shorts. That sounds like what I want too, but I'm not sure how to do it. OK, this is sounding a little different than what I did. Yes, I molded the leather to the gun before stitching. So the front of the holster is completely molded and the back is flat. Is that a good way to build a holster, or are they supposed to have molding done on both sides (resulting in the gun sitting further from the body)? Yeah, I'm crazy; I just don't like the idea of soaking the stitches in water or applying a finish to the leather on top of the thread. Besides, how can I tell how much leather is needed between the stitch lines before molding? I mean, you must leave enough room between the stitches directly along the top of the gun and the stitches along the bottom to allow the gun to fit between the two pieces of leather, right? And then you wet the leather, insert the gun, and start molding? So is the back of a holster supposed to be flat, or should it be molded halfway and the front molded halfway? You see, mine seems tight enough when it lies flat. However, once it is bent, the gun becomes quite loose. Uh-oh, Shorts. How can you see the stitch lines before I post a picture?? I used a saddle stitch punch, and sewed by hand. Yeah, I thought they turned out all right too. Now here's a picture: I would appreciate all comments on how I can do this better. Thank you. L'Bum

Ok everyone, I finally finished my first holster. It felt tight enough (I thought) at first, but as expected with leather, it has loosened up somewhat. So I'm wondering, how tight is "tight"? How tight should it be in the end -- after the holster is "broken in," so to speak? I've looked at pictures of other holsters, and the stitching doesn't really look closer to the gun than mine (some of them look farther than mine even), so I'm not sure how you holster-makers make sure the gun is tight enough in the holster. . . I don't need the gun to be so tight you have to really pull hard on it to remove it, but on the other hand, I do want it to be secure. And again, I have no experience with this at all; I've never really even seen other holsters to be able to try them out. Maybe someday I will be able to see how tight other people's holsters really are. . . Thanks for the help, L'Bum

Here's the last Oils Test picture.

Here are some examples of "Old Time Coloring" techniques from the South Central Leathercraft Guild: Old Time Coloring. Also relevant are these tests performed using Neat Lac and two different oils. . . These are from the FLASaH (Free Leather Artisans Sharing a Hobby) Yahoo! group files area. I think they were put together by Hidehandler from the Nashville, TN TLF. L'Bum

Yeah here's the one I made shortly after I saw Peter's post about it. And mine really is somewhat narrower at one opening. No, the drawings don't mean anything. What I would just like to know is how I can make a wider one. . . L'Bum

Bruce, When you said, "slotted style edgers," were you referring to the CS Osborne-style curved-bottom edgers? If so, I think I can agree: I can hardly get the one I have as sharp as I want. . . L'Bum

You should probably also add a good cutting board (rubber or something) to punch on to protect the tips of the stitching chisels. . . L'Bum

I've also used the #1313 Krylon Crystal Clear Acrylic Satin Finish, and as long as I don't spray it on too heavily, it has seemed to work great. L'Bum

So does anyone know for sure if this method of blackening would be harmful to a gun (regardless of bluing, etc.). And if so, is there a way to get the same effect without the risk of harming the gun? I'm basically wondering if this is a safe method to use on a gun holster. . . L'Bum

IMO, Jordan's is a much better idea. They would actually be handmade in the USA. There are already far too many Chinese imports here. . . L'Bum