Leather Bum

As far as I know, OTB means Ohio Travel Bag. Ohio Travel Bag website L'Bum

I've never really used undercutting tools, but here's a link to a lesson on the South Central Leather Crafter Guild website: Pro-petal Lesson Maybe you'll find something helpful there. . . L'Bum

I would like to hear everbody's sharpening process for edgers like the CS Osborne Quick Cut Edgers. . . I've attached a picture of the one I have (a size 3). I'm wondering what is the best way to sharpen the rounded edge in the narrow groove on the bottom side. Do you just basically use the techniques described in the Stohlman tools book with "slip stones" or jewelers files. . .? What's your favorite method? L'Bum

I think it kind of depends on the type of leather working you do. . . For leather carving/stamping tools, try Siegel of California or Hidecrafter for good quality (IMO, much better than TLF) at a reasonable-price. I don't think Hidecrafter has an online catalog yet; you can ask them to send you one. And be careful ordering on-line from Siegel of California. . . my orders are very frequently messed up one way or another. . . <_< As far as I know, both places also have a larger selection of higher-quality hand tools (not made in Taiwan/China) than TLF. Of course, many times the prices are higher, but I think the higher quality is worth the higher price. . . EDIT: Here's a topic that might give you an idea of what others think of some of the higher-quality tools as well. . . L'Bum

Here's just a note to keep in mind about the Leather Balm with Atom Wax. . . since you mentioned you used it on a holster. Fiebing's website describes it as, "A specially formulated liquid wax finish for coloring, softening and polishing articles of smooth leather. Can be buffed to a rich, soft, velvety lustre. Leather Balm with Atom Wax is not a water resistant top finish." [emphasis added] L'Bum

Hey, that looks like the same dog that Mike Rogers carved: Skidboot. Very interesting; he's even a member here. . . L'Bum

Yeah, that's definitely an eye-catching piece there. . . You did a sweet job on it! I really like the clean look with the contrasting colors -- natural background and lace, pleasant tan theme, and a nice highlighting antique. Well-done. Now what exactly was your procedure for antiquing it? L'Bum

I'm afraid I don't see anything wrong with it at all -- it looks like one of your usual fabulous pieces! Really, as I read your description, I started to think you had carved it all over again because the pictures look so good. . . BTW, would you run through the details of what exactly your coloring technique was for this piece? Thanks for posting this, Kate. L'Bum

Yeah, I'd like to know too. . . Is it to cause a darker mark (BURNish ), or. . . what?

I hope everyone else who knows of other colorful leather sources continues to post because I would like to have more options to consider as well. . . But here are a few places I know of that sell colorful leather -- keep in mind, however, that I have not purchased from most of them. . . Also, I don't think all of them sell automotive leather: Fox Valley Leather Global Leathers Leather Unlimited Hide & Leather House, Inc. Leather, Suede, Skins, Inc. Montana Leather Company Green Hides Leather Studio Rich Leather L'Bum

I would certainly like to see a picture of that! L'Bum

What is this stuff like? I mean, can you compare it to Fiebing's Edge Coat. . . or is it like a special edge glue. . . or what? How flexible is the smoothed edge? L'Bum

Has anyone else noticed that if you are not logged in, you can't view the pictures in the posts? I happen to notice this mainly because I'm not automatically logged in whenever I go to the forum, so I start browsing around as a Guest. I don't mind having to log in. . . it's just that it appears as though visitors cannot see the pictures this way. . . L'Bum

I believe JohnD posted this oak leaf picture. . . I've re-sized and cropped it a little to make it easier to view and upload. L'Bum

Like everyone else, I'm very much impressed with your work. It's incredibly well-done! I'm afraid I'm going to have to ask you to explain your staining technique on those pieces -- especially the last belt in the opening post. Thanks for sharing your fantastic artwork, L'Bum

Thanks for the how-to, Clay; you did a great job. What are the tool numbers for the cam and veiner you used? This brings me to my question of tool-order. If you pearshade before beveling, don't you find that, as Pete mentioned, the leather "bunches up against the cut line" -- making it more difficult to position the beveler IN the cut? You know, if the pearshader closes the cut, it seems easier to accidentally bevel either in front of or behind the cut (not desirable). L'Bum

Where can these modelers be purchased, Pete? It sounds really useful as small pear shader. . . L'Bum

Wow, JWU, that's really a cool project! So you made the whole bed part, too? Where did you get the shearling? Thanks for sharing; I like it. :D L'Bum

Ok, here's a really nice tutorial provided by the South Central Leather Crafter Guild about oak leaves and the pro-petal tool. However, it does include a little information on one use of one type of modeling tool, too ("ledder feddering"). Pro-petal and Oak Leaf As an aside, it seems to me as though if some pear-shaders (Craftool) didn't have such sharp edges, there would not be as much of a need to smooth their impressions. It's like making more work than there needs to be, IMLO (In My Leathercrafting Opinion ). . . L'Bum

I did not vote because I do not have a need for something like this. About the closest I can think of what I'd vote would be that I would need more information. However, if I did punch holes a lot and found that a tool like this would really make the job easier, I think price would definitely not be much of a deciding factor -- unless it was really expensive, like $150+; then, it seems it would mainly be a matter of whether or not you would use it often enough. Basically, if the tool would be really useful (it sounds like it is in your situation), I'd say the high price for a good quality product made in USA is probably well worth it. Also, has anyone ever seen or tried the C.S. Osborne self-centering punch set? It looks like the self-centering point would help in the situation of centering the punch over an awl mark, anyway. . . Heh, that sounds like regular Tandy quality! Far too many of their products are manufactured in China/Taiwan, IMO. I would guess that your rotary punch is made in Taiwan. . . And it still probably cost you ~$50. I would recommend that everyone stop buying these imported products -- absolutely regardless of the price. I'm really not certain of the quality of either -- or even where they are made --, but maybe you check out the C.S. Osborne TL155 revolving punch or perhaps the Vergez Blanchard VB3.7731 & BIS revolving punch, both sold by Siegel of California. Wow, it sounds like this is a somewhat common problem. . . Yeah, Pete, maybe you can get TLF to at least give you a workable tool (though, unfortunately, still imported from China/Tawian). L'Bum

Keep in mind that a complete (or strong) resist will keep the stain from soaking into the leather -- it resists the stain. As far as I know, the stain will then just sit on top of the leather instead of penetrating and actually coloring it. I wonder if a "partial" resist would do the trick -- something applied to the leather surface so it will accept the stain evenly. . . Maybe that's what the oil others have mentioned does. . .? Or perhaps a very thinned finish (Super/Satin Shene, RTC, Tan Kote, etc.) would work similarly. . .? L'Bum

That's kind of something I've thought too. I think it would be a good idea to have something like a temporary note at the top of the forum homepage for stuff like this because I think it would get noticed by more people. That way everyone knows right away if a contest has begun. And you know, I was just going to ask what the exact deadline is because I think I can get an entry in before the end of tomarrow (the 21st). . . Yeah, I really should have done it sooner, but. . . See, that's the thing about this forum! There are so many topics and interesting things here that I don't always get through looking at everything I'd like to! So I'm pretty sure I didn't find out about the contest right away either. Now why did Johanna have to start such a great place?! :scratchhead:

Has anyone been able to figure out the cause of the problem? Why can Dale get paint to work over oil dye but the Yak Killer cannot? :scratchhead:

Hey Coiffure, try this site: Grid Pattern PDFs. Is it anywhere close to what you want? L'Bum