Leather Bum

That's quite a striking sheath there, Ed! This raises some questions I've had about welts(?) on knife sheaths. How thick should the welt be, and do you make it the same thickness the entire length of the sheath? On a pocket-style sheath like this (for lack of a better term), is the knife held securely by the leather molded around the handle, or is the leather also molded to the blade? Thanks for sharing, and again, the sheath is outstanding. L'Bum

Thank you very much, Kevin. L'Bum

Welcome to the forum, Bronson! While keeping in mind I don't really have any experience building holsters. . . . . . I would think that a little oil (Lobo here could probably expand on this) and no forced drying (hair dryer) would help keep the leather from ending out too stiff and brittle as you've described. L'Bum

Like everyone else said, many thanks for this fantastic book, Bruce! L'Bum

Maybe you could try securing a straight edge to the leather and lining up the stamps against the edge without scribing a line. . . L'Bum

I've never done something like that, so I don't know for sure the outcome, but it seems to me if you boil the leather after applying a sealer, the sealer may be ruined. Also the wax may not soak in properly through a sealer. . . L'Bum

Awesome wallets, KK! That dollar-print lining is too fitting. May I ask what the dimensions of the wallets are? L'Bum

Thanks, Peter; yeah that makes sense. It reminds me of a youtube video I saw about a certain . . . L'Bum

It's a very cool-looking holster, Ben! I've a question about what you guys are talking about molding behind the trigger, though. . . Do you mean when re-holstering the weapon? I'm just wondering as it didn't make sense to me. . . Thanks! L'Bum

Has anyone bought from Cops Plus? They seem to have a good selection of Blue Guns and also quite a few ASP Red Guns. . . L'Bum

I've only made one holster, but these Corian tools I made seemed to work fine. L'Bum

Thanks for the info, Dave. L'Bum

Outstanding work as always, Dave! I would agree: it's much better than the black. Where do you get those eyelets (or are they grommets), and what size are they? Thanks very much. L'Bum

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think Ray is referring to this device also available from Siegel of California: Jerry Stripper. I have not used this product. ETA: Luke, how do you keep the leather from stretching and making uneven fringe? L'Bum

I was watching this topic with interest because I, too, have had trouble with the Ohio Travel Bag Jiffy Rivets. I haven't used rivets much but wanted to be able to if needed. The OTB rivets look pretty nice, and I noticed they don't have any sort of crimp on the tip like the others I purchased from Montana Leather Company. I've tried following the instructions in the Stohlman Leather Tools book for setting double-cap rivets, but the result was practically never what I wanted. I've tried to flatten the caps while setting the rivets because I gathered from other topics here that that possibly made them more secure. . .? If nothing else, the cap (or post, I'm not sure) would always have a dent about in the center. . . not a pleasing look. Thank you very much for this information, Daggrim. So if I'm understanding you right, you're saying the OTB jiffy rivets are not meant to be set like other double-cap rivets by forming the post inside the cap? That doesn't sound very secure, but it does make sense because I never could imagine how the post on these rivets is supposed to be crushed inside the cap. . . I wonder if it would work very well to use some sort of glue or something on the post or cap to make the setting more secure. . .? L'Bum

Ian, you did a cool job on the video, and the bag is fantastic! Thanks very much for this. L'Bum

I don't think double-sided tape is necessary; I've never tried it, but it might be a good idea. The Scotch packaging tape should work well. Don't use the Duct tape; I tried it, and it left an awful sticky mess on the back side (although that was probably partly due to the hair dryer use too ) L'Bum

Good point, Dwight. Thanks for that tip. I would imagine it would be a good practice when using Chicago screws on a belt as well. . .? L'Bum

Well, it's about time I finally got that patched. . . Thank you Kevin for the advice. As you can see in the first picture, I roughly stitched the tear closed first -- yeah, I did a messy job. I glued (Weld Wood) the patch on and then used a modified nail to punch the holes (because I haven't gotten a proper awl yet). It's saddle stitched because I wasn't sure how to go about it another way. What do you all think? Thanks again, Kevin. L'Bum

I would be interested to hear some other views on this, too. I really don't know what would cause that problem. To my thinking (heh ), you might be right about the grain suggestion as I've noticed some leather will stretch better in one direction over another. Or perhaps the way the leathers are glued together could cause this. . .?? L'Bum

Hello there, and welcome to the forum, Fossil. If you're looking for tips, tricks, advice, and general leatherwork information freely-shared in a friendly atmosphere, you've come to the right place indeed. L'Bum

I don't know where I heard that, but that's what I had always thought, too. Check the "Ounce" listing at the bottom of the Siegel of California page here: L'Bum

Well, I don't build holsters, and I'm not sure I've seen directional snaps, but you can check out DOT Fasteners for some good-quality snaps. L'Bum

How about Wyoming? L'Bum

I'm sorry, guys. I did not know anyone had responded (I thought I had this topic listed in my subscriptions; maybe not). Thank you Kevin. I don't have any stitching machine, so I will have to do this by hand. From what you said, I'm assuming you mean to separate the part labeled "A" in the attached picture from the rest of the leg "B" (and I think you may be right that it's sheepskin), glue and sew a patch in place, and re-stitch "A." Is that right? What if I just glue and sew a patch on the white box area without un-stitching "A"? I'm thinking it doesn't seem like a good idea to put a stitch line across the heel like that, though. And what is a good way to punching the stitch holes? Should I use a small stitching awl. . . or glovers needles. . .? Thanks very much for the help. L'Bum