Leather Bum

That sounds great, Ed. I wonder if there's any way to get LCI products in smaller quantities. . . L'Bum

OK, here are some pictures of what I have so far. How does it look? I wrapped the gun in plastic wrap; yeah, it's just a BB gun, but I think it will work anyway. Two of the pictures show the leather thickness (7/8 oz. I think); you can also see the tool I've been using to shape it (solid surface scrap piece smoothed and polished). How close to the gun should the stitches sit? Have I molded as far as the leather will allow? I'd like to hear everyones comments on what I could do differently to make it better. Thanks all. L'Bum

Thanks everyone; this is great. So maybe a 6/7 or 7/8 oz weight would be better for detail molding? Or perhaps you can just add simulated detail with a bone folder-type tool in heavier weights. . . How tight should a gun fit in the holster? I believe I've heard people here mention that their holster is tight enough that the gun will not fall out when the holster is shaken upside down. . . That sounds good. When is it advisable to have a strap at the back of the handle? Finally, what type of thread do you all like to use on these? Thanks again, L'Bum

Shorts, From what weight leather are those holsters made? I like the amount of molding detail you have attained. . . How do you guys make a pattern? Do you just draw it up on paper and then test it/trim it until you like it, or. . . what? Thanks for posting. L'Bum

I would guess these or similar questions have been asked before, but maybe everyone won't mind answering them again too much. . . I've never made a gun holster (where do I start?), but I've wanted to for a while and am most interested in making a molded style holster similar to those pictured below (pictures from other crafters on this board and elsewhere, though I'm not sure I remember exactly who. . . I think Randy Cornelius); the carry style, etc. isn't critical right now. The questions for now are these: 1. Are there any good books/videos that teach holster-making like this? 2. Is 8-9 oz. leather suitable for molding these; and will it make a long lasting holster? 3. Exactly how do you get those neat details from the gun onto the leather? Thank you everyone. L'Bum

That's an interesting formula. . . Thanks. L'Bum

Thanks for explaining how you do it, Gunfighter. To make sure I understand it right, do you put a 1/2 drop of super glue into the stitching hole(s) (2 or 3) before running the thread through. . .or after pulling the stitches tight? I want the end threads/stitches locked in place without having to use a bulky knot. . . L'Bum

Thank you very much, Jim, for that information. L'Bum

I believe Ace Hardware sells Smith's Honing oil (though I've not used it). I think I can understand the frustration of not knowing how to get a tool quite sharp enough, though. . . L'Bum

Well, this is an interesting point: what qualities does one expect from a bone folder? In other words, what do you like best about your bone folder, and/or what characteristics does a bone folder need to function as a bone folder? Does it need to be a hard, dense material, or. . .? What about solid surface material (such as Corian)? L'Bum

Thanks for this info, Ed. I didn't even know there was a neutral Edge Kote (Fiebing's right?). Where did you get it? How flexible is the finished edge (without cracking)? L'Bum

How flexible is the Edge Kote edge? I'm looking for an edge finish method/product/etc. that will not crack or anything when the edge is bent. . . such as on a wallet edge at the fold. What's a good procedure to get a really flexible, tough edge? L'Bum

This is by far the best leatherworking site I've ever been to! IIRC, I learned about it back when it was new from an invitation from Johanna on a Yahoo! group. . . I really like the fact that it's so open and friendly. . . without silly restrictions or hidden information archives. . . <_< I think I voted, "Yes, send me a banner," because it was the closest to what I meant: I'm glad to link to this forum on my (extremely outdated) blog and already rigged up an LW banner for it. :D Thank you, Johanna, and to everyone else who make this site what it is -- a fantastic leatherworking resource! L'Bum

Wow, so is there any way for anyone to get a hold of these LCI products? It seems like someone could somehow arrange to become a dealer to smaller businesses and individuals. . . maybe? Why wouldn't Tandy work something out? L'Bum

Yeah, here's the page with Siegel's metallic leather.

Tom, you did a fantastic job on that mask. . . Very cool. I'd almost like to build one like that. L'Bum

Thanks for explaining that, Art. What is the proper way to use linen to make it last longer than nylon or polyester? And what exactly is the "resin" that you apply to the thread? L'Bum

Speaking of thread types, what exactly does the term "bonded nylon" or "bonded polyester" mean? L'Bum

Zack White Leather Company apparently sells gold and silver "metallic lacing" here. I'm just not sure what's meant by "metallic". . . Although I've never purchased from ZW (others here have), most of what I've heard about them is that they are a good leathercraft supplier. L'Bum

Yeah, I've never tried them either, but here's a link to another source: Turtle Feathers. The don't seem to sell all of the Angelus products, though (such as the acrylic antique). L'Bum

I'm pretty sure Hidecrafter does ship overseas, though I don't know for sure. As I understand it, the Pro Crafter pebblers Hidecrafter sells are specially made for them. L'Bum (remember, these prices are not necessarily up-to-date)

The South Central Leathercrafters Guild has this page with patterns for a "Maverick" hat: Gambler There are also quite a few other patterns found on the FLASAH files page here. L'Bum

I'm setting them on the dished bar/"anvil" that's in the set. But as you can see from the pictures, the concave areas seem rather deep with sharp edges. . . I figured if I set them on a flat surface, the heads would flatten out, but I don't think my current results are much better. . .

But isn't the rivet post supposed to stick up above the surface a little bit? How much? L'Bum

How do you keep rivet heads from getting flat areas on them (same for snaps, now that I think of it). I have the "Deluxe" Snap-All-Rivet Setter from TLF (made in Taiwan, of course ), but here are some pictures of how the double-cap jiffy rivets from Ohio Travel Bag (purchased through Siegel of California) turn out. . . It looks to me as though the stem is not forming properly in the rivet head -- even though the rivet is the correct length for the leather (I think). Also, I'm pretty sure the anvil and setting tool are leaving marks on the leather around the rivet. . . So I'm wondering what tools/methods everyone else uses to properly set rivets -- in this case, double-capped jiffy rivets -- because mine are not turning out correctly. . . L'Bum