Frank

Chuck, Thanks very much for the assistance. I do have the packing iron book here and have utilized it like no other. I wasn't sure if the scanning would actually work. I'm not much of a computer guy here so just walking me through it helped a bit. I will make sure to do that tomorrow. I have friends that are pretty good with that stuff. I'm a big fan of the 1800's style carvings. To me they are very ornate and yet very simple. I really think simplicity is the best. Not that Sheridan style carving isn't nice, but it's definitely not me or what I would add to a holster personally. There are a lot of people out there that are very good at it, but I'm not one of them but I think that's because I never cared for the style enough to attempt it. Thanks again, I do appreciate it. Frank

I have been to her site before and she makes some very nice gear. I just feel like a total ass trying to copy someone's tooling style off of their website, this is the reason for me asking for any patterns. I feel better when people give me patterns to use, that way it is insinuated that I am allowed to reproduce said pattern. Plus my re-creation of patterns for the visual aspect does not work so well, again this is why I asked for a PDF or paper pattern of this style tooling.

Actually a great number of the 1800's style holsters were carved with simple floral patterns and leaves. Those specifically are the style patterns I am looking for. There generally wasn't much beveling or backgrounding done, if at all. I just don't have the knack to draw my own from looking at photos, or being able to carve them from memory. The Packing Iron book does have a lot of good examples, but nothing that I can work with on my own. I have 3-4 general floral patterns I use and the rest are all border tooled. I was just searching for some more patterns to throw in the mix.

Hey All, I am getting ready for a show in April. I just finished 32 different single action holsters for this one. The problem I am running in to, is coming up with different period correct 1800's style carvings for them. As far as drawing my own, I'm pretty handicapped in that area. If anyone can help me out, I'd greatly appreciate it. Feel free to PM me if you have a PDF format and I'll get you my email address otherwise if you have a hard copy (paper) pattern, I'll pay for postage and give you my address. Thanks in advance. Frank

One of the reasons you cannot re-apply the dye after using leather balm is because of the wax. Wax will not take any type of leather dye. The dye will just bead up on the surface. Frank

Not a problem at all. Everyone is here to become better at what they do, usually by the grace of others. Bob Parks has a post on here about the way that he finishes edges. I believe it is also listed on the home page under tutorials. I could be wrong though. No one really uses the exact same methods as another. They tend to use bits from one person and bits from another to come up with something that suits them personally. I have been doing my edges on the same line as Bob's because that is what I was taught to do, but I still don't do them exactly as he does, but bits and pieces here and there really help. Look up that tutorial when you get the time if you haven't already. It will help quite a bit. Frank

Howdy, I don't deal with too many concealed carry style holsters at all but the thing that jumped out at me (it could be from the closeness of the pics) was that your stitches seem very far apart. I'm not sure what size stitching marker/wheel you use, but I use a #6 stitching wheel for the holsters that I make. That should dress your holsters up a little bit more. The other thing that you might want to work on are smoothing and evening the edges of the holster. These really are the two things that jump out at most people when they look at the work. Frank

Barry King has a tool and size list on the website for different sizes of Sheridan carving. It might make things a little easier on you. Here is the link: Barry King

The video has been sold!

Hey all, I have a copy of Chuck's video, Frontier Holster making. I am looking to either sell it or swap it for another video along the same lines, either a holster or saddle video. If selling outright, I am asking $30 plus shipping, but would rather trade given the option. PM me if interested. Thanks much.

I've used the deglazer a couple of times before. Use a clean cloth and rub gently back and forth until all areas are covered. This stuff actually evaporates very quickly. A word of caution: do this outside if possible. The fumes are very strong and hazardous. Also, wear 2 pair of nitrile gloves when you do this as the deglazer will eat through at least the first pair!! You should be able to dye the leather within an hour since the stuff evaporates more than it is absorbed.

I'd also get the stirrup plate attachment as well. It brings the holster up off the plate, giving the holster a bit more clearance from the machine when stitching the holster together.

No problem at all. Thank Bob Stelmack for doing the tutorial. I'm just a pack rat for info so I had to save it even though I have no intentions of making conchos. I figured somewhere down the line someone could use it.

Talk to Gary about any old craftools. He is on this site but his screen name escapes me at the moment. Here is his website: Gary By the way, his user name is leatherman1457

Someone posted this on here a while back, not too sure who but thank him. I downloaded it when I saw it.index.pdf index.pdf

Yes, neatsfoot oil will work. I personally use the U-82 Saddlers oil from Weaveror a mix of the U-82 and NF oil. It is a lot thinner and evens out very quickly, without leaving a lot of the darkened areas like NF does.

I've never had any problems with the oil dye streaking at all, and I use it on a daily basis. That being said, this is the method in which I use it: I oil the entire project and let it set for 24 hrs to let the oil penetrate and even itself out. Next I use the oil dye and a shearling scrap and dip it into the dye so it is thoroughly wet. I then work it in a circular motion around the entire project. So far, using this technique, I haven't had anything streak. I hope this helps out a bit.

Sorry about that. I went back and checked, it is a Blanchard, not a Buchman but here is the link: Blanchard Frank

I think there is a 9 inch Buchman head knife on eBay right now. It's a biggun'.

Warning to anyone contemplating getting one of these knives. I did purchase one because I was allowed to use one prior and I found it to be super sharp right out of the package and never had a problem with it until today. While stropping the knife, the blade actually started to turn inside of the handle!! I'm damn lucky I didn't lose a finger or two. I called Tandy and he wants it back immediately. I'm guessing since they were a new arrival, pushing to get them out before the holidays, that some got overlooked on Q.A. I was extremely happy with the knife up until this point. If you have purchased one, check the tightness of the blade before an accident happens.

There is a tannery here in Milwaukee called Seidel Tanning Corp. I have a friend that uses them all of the time since he does a lot of biker chaps, leather jackets, and stuff like that. I've never used them but I should stop by there and see what they offer one of these days. Seidel Tanning

I had a chance last January to see these tools in person...I drooled a little!! I met Gary last year when I visited NM. If you haven't had a chance to say hi yet, do so. He's a very personable guy and made me feel right at home when I was there.

Just figured I'd add my 2 cents worth. I bought one the other day. I was given the opportunity to use one prior to purchasing mine. They are definitely worth a shot and I feel they are a lot better than the Osbornes. Yeah, there are a couple things that could be changed but they are worth the money in my opinion. I was shocked that out of the box they will cut Tandy's 13-15 oz saddle skirting with ease, and not to mention skiving it as well. I belive they have a 17 degree angle on the blade. I used the 50% off coupon and got it for $75 flat. Just check your local store and maybe they have one behind the counter they will let you use prior to purchasing.

The leather working manual by Stohlman does provide a lot of good tips for beginners. I highly recommend it. I have an old one, probably back when they were frst put into print. It shoul serve a person well, especially for the money.

The $200 minimum is still in effect but if you want only a few liners, they add 12% to the cost. The liners only take a few days to get since they have a warehouse in Arizona