Frank

I have talked to these people before about a bunch of different tools that they make and carry. I believe they also frequent this site, from previous conversations with them. I believe they have a full money back guarantee on all of their tools if your not happy with them. Their direct email address is: Dleibering at aol dot com and the woman's name is Donna. Frank

Weaver carries them in their new 2010 catalog. Someone else had a post on here similar to yours and named off a couple other places that carry them. You might want to do a search if you don't have an account with weaver. Frank

Thanks for the info. I was guessing as well that the rig was completely hand made but that was the other thing that I put in the first post. I wasn't sure if colt at one time had contracted any custom leather work out to anyone. I didn't think they had a production line of any leather products such as a rig like that. Both items were a pretty good find. The gun is about a 1958 and I figured the rig was about the same time frame. Somehow they ended up finding each other before I bought them.

As promised, here are a few pics of the rig that came with the gun, along with a photo of the gun. Frank

I will be posting pictures of the rig in a day or so. I just cleaned the leather today, re-burnished the edges as much as possible and oiled it. When the oil evens out a bit more then I'll get some posted. Frank

Hopefully someone out there has the knowledge to help me out on this one. I just picked up an old fully engraved Great Western Arms revolver this past week. What came with the gun intrigued me just as much. There was an old style 50's-60's fast draw holster and belt with the word "Colt" carved on the belt and the holster had the rampant colt carved on it. It fits a SAA with 4 3/4" bbl. While I was cleaning the leather the lexol foamed up on the backside and there were the words "Custom Made By Jeff Brown" carved not stamped into the back of the belt. I would never have seen the lettering if it weren't for the lexol. Has anyone heard of this maker, history, etc.? I wasn't sure if he made custom leather for Colt at one time, or even if Colt offered anything like that. I've tried googling the info several different ways, but couldn't come up with anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Frank

I just noticed in Bork's Saddlery Hardware catalog that the do make a few different models of horns, one being the nice domed exposed horn. If interested, email me directly at: frank@rockingksaddlery.com and I will get this scanned to the best of my ability and email you a copy of it. Other wise you can call Herb or Nadene at: (541) 276-5207 and request a catalog from them. Frank

They might be down to the 8-10 oz now but by June they'll have 8-10, 10-12, 12-14 listed again for the #3 grade. They will split them for you for an extra fee since they are the cheaper sides. I bought 7 sides the last time and I had 3 of the sides split and they didn't charge for it. Talk to Glenn at W/C, he is pretty good to deal with and usually goes out of his way to make you happy. Like I said, I have only had to send 1 of the #3 grades sent back because it was actually something that wasn't usable at all, so pretty good service that way.

What they don't tell you on their website is that the sale happens every month for the entire month. They just might not have same same weights in the same colors every month or they might add something different. Don't worry about not meeting the sale deadline is my point as it is an ongoing thing. Frank

I'm going to take a shot in the dark with this one. It really looks to me like a saddle that was mass produced "south of the border" and shipped up here by the truck loads and sold at horse auctions all over the place for around $200 at the time. I cannot attest to it but that is what it looks like to me from the photos. Sorry I couldn't be of more help. Frank

Their number 3 and their special is about the same grade. I order their specials all of the time, usually 6-7 sides. I ask Glenn (ext.222) to pick out some of their best special sides for me personally and so far I have had only one complaint on my end, which is pretty good. They do have some marks and blemishes that can usually be covered up once you add a finish coat to whatever you are using it for, the only exception being the russet carving sides. Those blemishes are nearly impossible to cover. I can get about 10-12 holsters from a side without any blemishes on them, which is still a pretty good profit margin. The scraps I can make coasters, etc. from. I hope that helps out a little bit. Frank

If you have the chance and the few extra bucks, order Chuck Burrows' holster making dvd, it will help you out quite a bit You can find them at: Burrows It is a great DVD to have in your collection Frank

I started my full time leather business right smack dab in the beginning of the recession. I started out with saddles and then diversified into gun leather and cowboy gear. I had a hell of a go at it for a while but then things started to pick up a little here and there. Mostly with SASS guys and Cowboy Action Shooters. One thing that happens when we elect a Democrat president is that gun sales always go through the roof. I'd go a month and maybe make about $200-$300 or so, just enough to keep my hopes up. This last week I did about $700 worth of business just in holsters alone. I think people are starting to come around to the "American Made Product" way of thinking. I let them know that the leather is from US hides and they are tanned here in the US, giving them a chance to keep their own people in business. I hear nothing but compliments from my customers. More often than not, they order 2-3 different items from me after they get their first custom made holster, belt, etc. I give them my guarantee which will outlast the guarantee you get from any "import, factory made" leather item. They really seem to cotton to that and are willing to listen. I've also been offering 10% off their second order up to $250 and 5% over $250, just to give them an incentive to come back. It's a give a little take a little situation right now since we are all feeling he push. And yes, I have traded leather work to get items I wanted/needed and didn't have the extra cash to pay for. Bartering works pretty well in some respects. Another thing I do that seems to help quite a bit is offer a Veteran's discount. Since I'm a Vet myself, I have heard nothing but great comments from people after they visit my website. Quite a few ordered simply because I am willing to give Vets a discount and they aren't even Vets themselves. I've had customers ask me to send them 20-30 business cards so they could hand them out to friends. Now it seems I am rambling a bit and could go on forever but I went to a trade show a few weeks ago. I met a lot of great people and took some orders and sold items off the table. The individual who ran the trade show flat out told me that my gear was too nice to sell there. He said that most people at the show were looking for well broken-in floppy type thin gun leather. He basically told me if I sold crap gun leather at the show I would do much better selling. I reminded him that if I wanted to sell items that were already broken in by me, then the people would have to pay $40-$50 more per item. Me being me, I cannot lower my standards just to sell because my name is on the product. If it doesn't meet my specs, it does go in the trash! Just my 10.5 cents worth there

Mongo, Thanks for the replies and info. That is exactly what I thought and needed. I do not have the OMV to mold with but will take your advice on the molding trick. I do appreciate it very much. Frank

Thanks for the info. I appreciate it. I am using 9-10 oz leather without a lining or a welt on most of the holsters unless otherwise requested. I'd like to wet fit the gun myself but without a molding gun I am at a disadvantage so the pattern has to be a very close fit. If you have a spare body pattern, I'd definitely pay you for it. Thanks again. Frank

Thanks Bobby. Do you think I should had a 1/4" or 1/2" onto the pattern? I planned on making a lower cut throat on the front of holster so I didn't have to worry too much about the rear sight being knocked about. Thanks again. Frank

Hey all, I have a question regarding the Ruger Blackhawk. I have had 2 requests for holsters for this gun but I do not have a specific pattern and purchasing a dummy gun is out right now. At least for another couple of weeks. Do any of you know if the Ruger Blackhawk and the Ruger Old Model Vaquero can use the same pattern? I wasn't sure with the target sights compared to the standard blade and notch sights if they would fit the same holster or if I should add a 1/4" or so to the pattern width. I appreciate any assistance. Frank

Paxton I'm not sure about using neatsfoot oil on the backside. I only oil the top side. The oil will even itself out by drawing further down in the leather. I think if you oil the back then you have a chance of oil seeping onto clothing if you end up oiling too heavy and not giving it enough time to even out and dissipate. Frank

Paxton, I usually use a piece of cloth like a shirt scrap or something on that line. As far as the second method, you can apply it to un-dyed leather too. It will darken it a little but not very much. I hope that helps. Frank

Not a problem Paxton. I hope it works well for you. I use the same method with most of my belts. It's quick and simple and seems to do the trick. Frank

There are a couple of different ways you can finish the backside even if you dye the back. 1.) Use Gum Tranc. and a cloth rag. Put a liberal amount on the backside of the belt and rub vigorously until you get a smooth finish. This will cause a little of the dye to rub off but it will seal nicely. It does take some time and elbow grease to achieve this. Do this before you put any holes in the belt. 2.) Easiest and Quickest method: Take a 1" foam brush and add an even coat of Fiebings Leather Balm with Atom Wax. Allow about 15-20 min. for it to dry and then buff it well with a piece of denim until shiny. Then add a second coat on top of the first. Be sure to use longer fuller strokes on the second coat to avoid and bubbles in the liquid. Also do this before adding any holes. I hope this helps out a bit. Just don't get either one of these on the front of the belt as they will alter the color of the finish. Frank

I've never used deglazer and everything seems to come out just fine. I use the Chuck Burrows method: 20-25% distilled water and 75-80% bag kote in a spray bottle. Shake it up well and spray it liberally on a rag and rub it in. It is a trial and error type thing. Try it on some scrap and see if that works better for you. Frank

Tony, I've heard of some guys using the resolene as a top coat finish. I have never tried it though. I have a side of black W/C and I don't have any problems with the bag kote sealing the leather. So far it has worked great for me. I switched from tan kote to bag kote a while back. What application method do you use? Frank

Not a problem. I hope he can help you out with that, otherwise I might have another contact for you. Let me know how it pans out and then we can go with the second one if need be. Frank

I remember my saddle making instructor having photos of a saddle he made for an individual in a wheel chair. I do not know if he added the attachments after the tree was made or if they were added when the tree was assembled. You might want to give him a call and find out. You can usually get a hold of him 11am-9pm Mountain time. He's a nice guy to deal with. His name is Dallas Stermon of Outlaw Saddlery. (605) 673-5316 Frank