nylonRigging

Not a Tall extra high post, but the slight shim tilt forward modification to the sew head is more comfortable on sitting behind with eye-hand, and you dont find yourself leaning forward as much . - -

it is pretty cost effective, and common easy finding retail store, and I like the softer HDPE for punch, been using it for many years . HDPE is great and cheap for abusing for a backing when punching . But.. 'cutting' on HDPE surface, it takes a BAD beating . I was just at the supply warehouse yesterday picking up some more 4x8 sheets of ABS and HDPE, and while I was there was looking and pricing the Actalcopolymer sheets ( For Cutting ) not punching . If you ever are going to 'UpGrade' to a 100 x superior material for a 'cutting surface' board . Buy Acetal Copolymer ( Polyoxymethylene ) . Very Similar structure to Derlin, but it not Derlin and is a little cheaper in cost over Derlin. . OK, quick search . . here a simple vid. of what I am saying . the Vid. got A Lot of OP Jibber-Jabber knife talk . so I started into the Vid. 4: 17 minute . Cut Surface -

I tried blowing up the Pic. some to see. But still little hard for me to see exactly what you are talking about with a double-edge guild, on the Feed of that cylinder bed. A lot of Flat-Bed double needles come with a attachment slide plate, right in front of the Feed ( pic. below ) . I do have use that for securing different folders and such. I could just attach a 1" wide feed guild to that. I might end-up having to go that route . But I trying to keep it more visually clean for my eyes to follow pencil markings of where to hand guide the webbing on top the material as I laying down stitches. The 112/212 needle-feeds style machines keep the press foot really low also when stitching. They pendulum walk with the feed dogs. never high stepping like a Compound or a Drop-walk feed . So if there was both a L and R guide on both sides of the Presser Foot. It really never loos contact guiding 1"webbing under the 7/8" needle gauge Foot. - -

That good to know . I mulling it around in my head right now on doing a 7/8" gauge on an old 112 that is sitting not being used . Setting it up for stitching both edges of 1" webbing on a pattern I been doing . My personal quest/problem at this moment on the gauge setup is . On the 112/212 press feet . They offer Press Feet with a L-side and R-side edge guide, and that pretty standard ... BUT, What I really like to find is a Presser Foot with an ' edge guide on both sides ' so I can feed the strips webbing directly into/under Press foot . But most likely me getting double-edge guide is probably something that I am going to have to end-up myself Garage McGver'ing and soldering small thin strips of material to both sides of Foot for a double edge guide Foot . .

Any of the needle gauge sets for the mechanics of Needle-Feeds machines, like Singer 112/212 style feet and feed will go past farther than 1.5 inch wide. Real easy to set-up also. reasonable priced and easy to find. For newer machines I like the double-needle juki LH model in that foot style and feed. but I still got old singers to. example here .. offer up to .. 1 - 3/4" .

Shit gona happen if you are repetitiously doing same'o same'o every day, day after day . ( me ) working Real Tight Areas on occasion when hurrying to get things done the only that has really tagged my fingers ans knuckles over the years of sewing.are the needle clamp screws that stick out on the sides during shaft strokes . I also been tagged a few times over the years by the 'Toe' of the needle feed feet, and pinch the skin. .

LWcom link to older thread / similar discussion . - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95016-roller-foot-could-you-and-would-you/ -

I am always browsing in the local area Adds. here for machines. A lot of sewing going on here, so there always a lot of turnover for sales for used industrials around the NW Portland/Seattle area here, BUT... you dont see many of these Ever come-up for Sale . I not connected to this Sale . It a slow Sunday Morning, and I just throwing this up here based solely on --->clik on . Cool Factor -

DB-130G . millions of those Mitsu. DB models made, distributed worldwide .

looks like you spent time putting some thought into that overhaul . Very nice job . .

Ya it meant for garment semi-high speed. I could only find one Vid. on internet of that exact DB model, and it looks like garment 'needle-feed' lockstitch . The ( -3 ) of ending I am not positive but just 'maybe' needle-feed . I looked at the manual for the -B763 minus/No '-3' , and it just a drop-feed . . edit add . This Only Pic. I could find of this exact OLD DB- model DB2-B763-3 . So it most likely just a plain Drop-Feed . -

I live just west of, and pretty close to Portland . There is a lot of sporadic machine turn over here in the NW area. also Lots of small sew shops tucked away, and also people sewing . If looking for a good clean used I see them popup all the time . You can run across some nice clean machines on the Portland Craigslist if check at it regularly . I not doing Facebook, but I here there some machines come up in the for-sales there also . .

Also, double check the tension you winding thread on your bobbin winder . things happen, and bobbin winder gets looked at very little when you working repetitious day after day. .

( Don't Oil Anything ) .. till you blow all sand and grit off everywhere real well with a air compressor .Use a Vacuum Cleaner or Shop Vac to suck out all the open hole spots and just generally everywhere . Being stored and pretty Dry is a Plus for you right now . If you Lube it only going to attract and flow the grit into places you Don't Want, while making it a real job to clean, rather than looking like a pretty easy job right now . .After you get it all blown off with Compressor, then you can do an assessment if the sand/grit is actually going to be a problem . It probably Not. If only sitting for a month, most likely all the contaminant is just laying on top surfaces only. Also.. that is a Real Nice cherry looking Consew Head for it's Age. It older Made in Japan and, ' It is a Keeper ', so get it cleaned up. .

what @constbulary said .. best guess is that the aftermarket Teflon press foot you running there. The foots 'shank angle forward' and hinge be totally out factory spec. That aftermarket mass produced generic Foot probably runs like a champ on a drop-feed with zero needle-bar walk/swing. but you stick it on a needle-feed motion and you are screwed. Also, forget about the Dial SPI numbers. what does the actual SPI Stitch per Inch measure on the material ? . I don't have a Juki DLN needle-feed , but I have a Juki LH needle-feed and the most I can stretch out is 5 per inch on thin material. Reminder of.. that it a pendulum/swing walk with the needle bar, so thinner material will give you a Max. on the SPI. .

So you saying have 2 issues ? Your needle not entering cleanly with the Feed Dog needle slot. hitting the Dog on it Walk/stroke? . Also Needle is banging the top of Press Foot ? If your machine sews great laying down stitches. and as long as your Needle stroke is timed well with entering Feed Dog ?. My 1st 'guess' off top of my head .. is You have Max out to far SPI, stretching out the stitch length, more than machine is capable . Or.. The Press Foot is not the proper length with it's needle slot to short length .? Slot is to short to match your your needle bars walk/stroke lenth. .

Cut a few . Nicest, cleanest, best way is to Cut on a Table Saw with the saw using a finish blade. You will be surprised how perfect and smooth clean the cut will be, even on the outside rubber bumper wrap. You can use hand circular saw, but you need to c-clamp a guide on table to run the blade guard against to keep circular saw moving in a straight square clean cut. You can clean-up any roughness with block sanding. . edit add: . Is that head and drive set-up just setting on-top a table ?. your cylinder bed machine, looks cantilever hanging the weight out over one side of table top . I would take time to determine all angles of maintaining good stability before removing any of the base it all mounted to. .

it would good to know what machine model you asking about ? , are you asking about a underside of head view window reservoir on gear box ? , Or you asking about view window on upper Head of inboard reservoir ? , Or other ? .

Motor pulley belts to the Large pulley reducer, Small pulley reducer belts to machine hand wheel . 1st align smallest pulley reducer to sew heads hand wheel pulley, and drill, and bolt down . Then move drive motor to the align to the Large pulley of the reducer and drill and bolt down . Also, don't forger that you always have option to flip-over the Servo drive to Right or Left, as you have option to switch drive direction on the controller. Edit Add: .. that extra small carrier pulley on the bottom of the Sew Head for factory drive belt routing . Do you actually need this now ?

Ya, you need to swap-out your 1/4" , to a ( 3/16") gauge needle setup for 3/4". But it pretty easy to do, if you ever decide to do it . Double-needle does look good though, It presents itself well in trimming out items with the 3/4" on raw exposed edges, pockets and things . So... I just planting the seed now in back of your Brain ...LOL Even the old Singer 112/212 'needle feeds' are pretty common, easy to find, and a lot of people overlook them in searching out a compound feed, Needle-Gauge sets are common found, and cheep for them. Just grab an old 112/212 when you run across one. Clean it up, set it up with a Raw-Edge 3/4" binder . The old Needle-feed Singers do a Very Nice job with both fabric and Leather. People really overlook them and never give them enough credit over compound feed with Leather. BUT they do an outstanding job . Here a good example in Pic. using needle-feed machine binding edge on leather. I just cut a scrap strip off 3/4", off some nice soft supple black leather, and threw it under one of my Needle-Feeds set-up for 3/4 raw edge binding . Also trimmed same cut of Black with some raw-edge Nylon grosgrain 3/4" . - -

You want some changes in making crawling low RPM speed to an already built and working Top table drive set-up . There is going to be some sacrifice to make something new work, like changes, moving things, drilling a couple new holes..etc . Like i said no biggie just drilling and moving things around on the table tops. and was just an alternative thought on using Box reducer , but sure it would probably work. Normally pulley reduction or the box style speed reducer are under-table mount. But the Box style is a 'stack' together with the drive motor. Rather than the pulley reducer that is off-set alignment to one side of the drive. So.. Instead of hanging motor off the bottom of the box style speed reducer under the table . You just reverse, mount Box style reducer to table-Top, and then drive motor on-top of box speed reducer. Take motor OFF . Align and mount Box . Mount motor on-Top of Box . Buy new V-belt to fit the new length dimension . Also you might try just buying another more powerful servo drive unit, that has enough low RPM power to move slow with little effort. Just a swap out with your existing servo drive and controller . - That hand wheel on the machine right now looks nice. and It looks to have a little weight to it also which is nice. but If wanting to change it out . I would just call Artisan. ( i think ? ) ask, talk to ' Chester ' , if i remembering right name from last time I ordered parts from them. Ask him if they could hook you up with a larger diam. Pulley/hand wheel to that model . .

For adding a speed reduction pulley that is meant to run offset to the side . You have to move the motor and you will also loose your belt-bobbin wind . It no big deal really to move things around and just drill new mount holes in table tops . If not wanting to move and re-drill a few holes, Possibly ? , is it possible to run a 'Box' style reduction system . ( Pic. Attached ) . Just reverse from hanging under, to stack on-top of table . I have never used a Box reducer style, only the traditional under table pulley reduction, But there a few people here that use one that could chime-in if it possible to box-motor stack on-top of table rather than underside . That does look like a 'Well Thought Out' , top table motor drive set-up that Artisan sent out to you. Did you just order this machine new from them ? . If you call and ask what machine design/model that Artisan Labeled this from . You could possible get a larger hand wheel.pulley ordered for it . - -

You can challenge yourself o do better.. LOL... now take 3/4" and turn multiple 90 deg. corners around object, were both sides must be finish look .. Then do same with double needle. .

I would not put so much of the decision on what drive each machine has under the table. But would make the decision on the condition of the Head. ( me ) , drive motors come and go, and can easy be changed out. Machine Pic's would help a Lot . Both are solid workhorse machines / The older Head is no doubt the 111w115., and it most likely does not even have reverse . If the Pfaff was pretty clean Head, and not beat to hell. I would take the old 145H3 on my 1st choice. .

That Pfaff is a L-hand machine . what does the front of the machine look like ? Is that the only Pic. that you have of it, of the backside ? .