nylonRigging

Was thinking you might check the Needle scarf size ? , Shorter length Scarf limits Hook travel, and some needle manufactures have longer length Scarf . Longer Scarf, the Hook will be able to move past the top and bottom of Scarf in little wider path on each needle stroke . Wider Scarf also lets you get more ZZ width without tapping top and bottom of the Scarf with the Hook, and help stop Hook wear. - -

I never have bought R-twist for the L-side needle on the double-needle machines . I just keep an eye-on that L-side when sewing and binding. I don't think any one man shops or small sew shops do. You just keep eye on the left side as you go and when you notice the thread twist getting shitty, You just drag-threw some fresh thread off the L-cone threw needle and keep going. That said, Not All threads are equal in the quality and twist and bonding. ( for example ) , I am just coming to the end of a case of A&E t70 nylon bonded, and good riddance. I won't run that A&E t-70 on the double-needles because the thread is inferior and the thread Twist and Bond turns to Crap Real Fast on the L-needles . So I picked up 20 lb. box of Coats brand t70 nylon bonded six months ago with the same Color Code# as the A&E . That case of Coats brand thread is So much better quality twist/bond, and it will run for long time threw the L-side needle before I have to drag threw some fresh thread . .

I grabbed some scrap and did a few quick and dirty finish on 3/4" tape ending for example with folding pieces of 1-k cordura . and there probably other techniques also. You can just Hot Knife, cut . . You can do a double-back fold, and do a quick little zigzag or bar-tack . . you can do an inward 'tuck' fold finish . The double-fold over, and tack is pretty self-explanatory for a finish on the tail-end . Hot Knife, cut-off takes a little practice to make look clean, and also a good seal/melt . Also Nylon hot knifes different than if you using Polyester. Polyester binding. You can make both look good, but they melt/act a little differently. Personally I think nylon cuts melts nicer. The inward tuck fold on the finish. That is used a lot with ending finish. Also on binding where you bind a circumference and finish off running on top your starting point. There a couple ways you can do it, and there is some technique involved that takes a little practice . Main thing is you have to stop the binding a couple inches from the finish. leave the Needle or Needles in the plunge holding down the material . Then slide or fold back you binding Folder out of the way, and cut the binding leaving some binding to work with for making the fold-tuck. Then just sew the finish without using the Folder. Also there couple ways to work the binding with your under-tucking . You can just fold it as is, and fold inward. Or you can do a 'split' center-lengthwise in the tailing piece your tucking . - - - -

Yep. It works and looks great with using a round-point/fabric needle. I do it once in a while with Leather piece panels stitched over Nylon Cordura on a couple patterns. .

Link to YouTube Video 287RB -

This is just suggestion, and everybody different in their setups and their techniques. This just my technique that been using for long time setting up and binding. and just my opinio for your binding using Cylinder Bed and compound feed, with syncro-move with your feed movement. Don't be intimidated by cutting and shaping both Inner and Outer Feet to make things work , Also Cut/trim that push-stop plate that leads out from the binder throat that you pushing your material up against on the Feed. Your length of that push-plate really does not have to be run out past the needle plunge to do it job with you pushing material against it. Leaving it long, is just working against you on your final results . Also, Your outer-press foot . Your inner R-side toe. ( me ) I like to 'leave it there' . but trim it off and shape it . Your outer L-side toe, just leave or trim to suit the need. Rather than just using only the L-side toe and foot-Heel . Keeping a little of that R-side foot ( even small ) is to your advantage in press/hold down and feed of binding and material. Very Rarely do I ever keep the outer press-Foot that is sold to me with binder kit. I end-up making my own off generic stock Press Foot. And, your inner Foot. I like to trim/shorten and shape the toe of it also . Needs to end-up as tight as possible, and trimming the inner foot and shaping toe let's the binder in more tighter/closer . Also when your holding and feeding your material into the binder and sewing with cylinder bed, make habit of, Don't let it sag lower than the binder. I like to hold and feed material into, on a little higher angle than a flat level feed to binder. Surprising how even angle of material feed can change the binding tracking on the cylinder bed. -- Not same cylinder bed machine as yours, but here in this Pic. this just my technique . In the Pic. The needle is just coming 'out' of it's plunge and just on the rise. Where everything is at it's tightest in it's syncro-feed movement . You can see where the outer press-foot R-toe just shy of touching/meeting the Press-plate tip/ending. With the press-plate length cut just a tad past the needle . Binding system, all has to end-up tight and smooth, movement back and forth. - - -

Not a Tall extra high post, but the slight shim tilt forward modification to the sew head is more comfortable on sitting behind with eye-hand, and you dont find yourself leaning forward as much . - -

it is pretty cost effective, and common easy finding retail store, and I like the softer HDPE for punch, been using it for many years . HDPE is great and cheap for abusing for a backing when punching . But.. 'cutting' on HDPE surface, it takes a BAD beating . I was just at the supply warehouse yesterday picking up some more 4x8 sheets of ABS and HDPE, and while I was there was looking and pricing the Actalcopolymer sheets ( For Cutting ) not punching . If you ever are going to 'UpGrade' to a 100 x superior material for a 'cutting surface' board . Buy Acetal Copolymer ( Polyoxymethylene ) . Very Similar structure to Derlin, but it not Derlin and is a little cheaper in cost over Derlin. . OK, quick search . . here a simple vid. of what I am saying . the Vid. got A Lot of OP Jibber-Jabber knife talk . so I started into the Vid. 4: 17 minute . Cut Surface -

I tried blowing up the Pic. some to see. But still little hard for me to see exactly what you are talking about with a double-edge guild, on the Feed of that cylinder bed. A lot of Flat-Bed double needles come with a attachment slide plate, right in front of the Feed ( pic. below ) . I do have use that for securing different folders and such. I could just attach a 1" wide feed guild to that. I might end-up having to go that route . But I trying to keep it more visually clean for my eyes to follow pencil markings of where to hand guide the webbing on top the material as I laying down stitches. The 112/212 needle-feeds style machines keep the press foot really low also when stitching. They pendulum walk with the feed dogs. never high stepping like a Compound or a Drop-walk feed . So if there was both a L and R guide on both sides of the Presser Foot. It really never loos contact guiding 1"webbing under the 7/8" needle gauge Foot. - -

That good to know . I mulling it around in my head right now on doing a 7/8" gauge on an old 112 that is sitting not being used . Setting it up for stitching both edges of 1" webbing on a pattern I been doing . My personal quest/problem at this moment on the gauge setup is . On the 112/212 press feet . They offer Press Feet with a L-side and R-side edge guide, and that pretty standard ... BUT, What I really like to find is a Presser Foot with an ' edge guide on both sides ' so I can feed the strips webbing directly into/under Press foot . But most likely me getting double-edge guide is probably something that I am going to have to end-up myself Garage McGver'ing and soldering small thin strips of material to both sides of Foot for a double edge guide Foot . .

Any of the needle gauge sets for the mechanics of Needle-Feeds machines, like Singer 112/212 style feet and feed will go past farther than 1.5 inch wide. Real easy to set-up also. reasonable priced and easy to find. For newer machines I like the double-needle juki LH model in that foot style and feed. but I still got old singers to. example here .. offer up to .. 1 - 3/4" .

Shit gona happen if you are repetitiously doing same'o same'o every day, day after day . ( me ) working Real Tight Areas on occasion when hurrying to get things done the only that has really tagged my fingers ans knuckles over the years of sewing.are the needle clamp screws that stick out on the sides during shaft strokes . I also been tagged a few times over the years by the 'Toe' of the needle feed feet, and pinch the skin. .

LWcom link to older thread / similar discussion . - https://leatherworker.net/forum/topic/95016-roller-foot-could-you-and-would-you/ -

I am always browsing in the local area Adds. here for machines. A lot of sewing going on here, so there always a lot of turnover for sales for used industrials around the NW Portland/Seattle area here, BUT... you dont see many of these Ever come-up for Sale . I not connected to this Sale . It a slow Sunday Morning, and I just throwing this up here based solely on --->clik on . Cool Factor -

DB-130G . millions of those Mitsu. DB models made, distributed worldwide .

looks like you spent time putting some thought into that overhaul . Very nice job . .

Ya it meant for garment semi-high speed. I could only find one Vid. on internet of that exact DB model, and it looks like garment 'needle-feed' lockstitch . The ( -3 ) of ending I am not positive but just 'maybe' needle-feed . I looked at the manual for the -B763 minus/No '-3' , and it just a drop-feed . . edit add . This Only Pic. I could find of this exact OLD DB- model DB2-B763-3 . So it most likely just a plain Drop-Feed . -

I live just west of, and pretty close to Portland . There is a lot of sporadic machine turn over here in the NW area. also Lots of small sew shops tucked away, and also people sewing . If looking for a good clean used I see them popup all the time . You can run across some nice clean machines on the Portland Craigslist if check at it regularly . I not doing Facebook, but I here there some machines come up in the for-sales there also . .

Also, double check the tension you winding thread on your bobbin winder . things happen, and bobbin winder gets looked at very little when you working repetitious day after day. .

( Don't Oil Anything ) .. till you blow all sand and grit off everywhere real well with a air compressor .Use a Vacuum Cleaner or Shop Vac to suck out all the open hole spots and just generally everywhere . Being stored and pretty Dry is a Plus for you right now . If you Lube it only going to attract and flow the grit into places you Don't Want, while making it a real job to clean, rather than looking like a pretty easy job right now . .After you get it all blown off with Compressor, then you can do an assessment if the sand/grit is actually going to be a problem . It probably Not. If only sitting for a month, most likely all the contaminant is just laying on top surfaces only. Also.. that is a Real Nice cherry looking Consew Head for it's Age. It older Made in Japan and, ' It is a Keeper ', so get it cleaned up. .

what @constbulary said .. best guess is that the aftermarket Teflon press foot you running there. The foots 'shank angle forward' and hinge be totally out factory spec. That aftermarket mass produced generic Foot probably runs like a champ on a drop-feed with zero needle-bar walk/swing. but you stick it on a needle-feed motion and you are screwed. Also, forget about the Dial SPI numbers. what does the actual SPI Stitch per Inch measure on the material ? . I don't have a Juki DLN needle-feed , but I have a Juki LH needle-feed and the most I can stretch out is 5 per inch on thin material. Reminder of.. that it a pendulum/swing walk with the needle bar, so thinner material will give you a Max. on the SPI. .

So you saying have 2 issues ? Your needle not entering cleanly with the Feed Dog needle slot. hitting the Dog on it Walk/stroke? . Also Needle is banging the top of Press Foot ? If your machine sews great laying down stitches. and as long as your Needle stroke is timed well with entering Feed Dog ?. My 1st 'guess' off top of my head .. is You have Max out to far SPI, stretching out the stitch length, more than machine is capable . Or.. The Press Foot is not the proper length with it's needle slot to short length .? Slot is to short to match your your needle bars walk/stroke lenth. .

Cut a few . Nicest, cleanest, best way is to Cut on a Table Saw with the saw using a finish blade. You will be surprised how perfect and smooth clean the cut will be, even on the outside rubber bumper wrap. You can use hand circular saw, but you need to c-clamp a guide on table to run the blade guard against to keep circular saw moving in a straight square clean cut. You can clean-up any roughness with block sanding. . edit add: . Is that head and drive set-up just setting on-top a table ?. your cylinder bed machine, looks cantilever hanging the weight out over one side of table top . I would take time to determine all angles of maintaining good stability before removing any of the base it all mounted to. .

it would good to know what machine model you asking about ? , are you asking about a underside of head view window reservoir on gear box ? , Or you asking about view window on upper Head of inboard reservoir ? , Or other ? .

Motor pulley belts to the Large pulley reducer, Small pulley reducer belts to machine hand wheel . 1st align smallest pulley reducer to sew heads hand wheel pulley, and drill, and bolt down . Then move drive motor to the align to the Large pulley of the reducer and drill and bolt down . Also, don't forger that you always have option to flip-over the Servo drive to Right or Left, as you have option to switch drive direction on the controller. Edit Add: .. that extra small carrier pulley on the bottom of the Sew Head for factory drive belt routing . Do you actually need this now ?