nylonRigging

Advertiser made a Typo with his fat fingers on keyboard , punching #6 instead of #5 ... as it does look like a factory w151 in the Pic. I cant see the prefix of the blurry serial #, in your Pic. .. but Have you checked singer serial # database ? .. for a w161 model and year . .

Or... ? you hit the button sequence to, ' run Reverse direction' in your Servo Drive . What Cylinder bed machine model, are you talking about ? . I not familiar with that model .. Is your Reverse lever in the UP position ? .

Is not the 1508 a Vertical 'top-load' . and the 1541 a Horizontal 'under table' side-load ? .. One is a LU/#model juki.. other is a DU/# model juki . The question you asked, sounds like you asking if you can convert the 1508 that you own. To a 1541's bobbin assembly ??? .

I used to buy a lot of SS longneck grommets from them. might try giving them a call to see what in-stock size#'s on Snaps . - -

' Zippo lighter ' .it a very High flash-rate, so it evaporates Super fast out of fabric, and I have never noticed it leaving any odor/smell afterwards . It a overlooked gem that cleans great, and not Hot that it remove any color or melts any synthetics/nylon or poly . Just spray some out of the can on a piece of fabric and leave it till Dry, and take a 'sniff ' . .

wow .. Acetone I would think be a little hot for nylon/poly weave . ( me ) I would recommend what I have cleaned a lot of Nylon gear and Para Gear fabric for stain, using Naptha/ Zippo Lighter Fluid . I have even had good luck even removing Black Creosote off of Nylon rip-stop fabric with it . .

several questions asked ... That particular machine has primarily only sewn 1-k denier Nylon and webbing it entire life . . Like I said, I never used # 138 on it before only text 70 and 90 . Right now today me sewing on it, and not really trying hard to tune it for everyday running #138 . The way machine is normally setup with 135x17 22 needle, strung up with #138 on top and bobbin . It has ZERO problems handling 1-k Den. Nylon heavy Urethane backed, ( 8-layer stack ) with good looking stitches top and bottom using straight and Zigzag . I running a 750W servo with no speed reduction setup on that machine . Not trying to compare fabric to leathers, but multiple fold layers of quality Heavy denier Nylon weave with Urethane back, can start putting a machine threw some tough work . . There really only 2 Hard drawback/limitations with the Consew 146RB . In It's design, it Can't stretch-out Big SPI length on the straight-stitch . . It is Very limited with what you can do for Feet Selection . 146RB is FAR from the your end search for 'perfect do all machine' . BUT.. I really see no reason you can't tune the machine for #138 , and then put it in a station to do certain specific jobs sewing Leather. It a good machine to have in your stable of collected machines. . Threading - I put a tall thread-post on top and use 2 hole . and on the 3-hole L-bar in front i use all 3 holes for 2-wraps . . You like pneumatic lifts ?? . I never really cared for them much, because it always 'all or nothing' with them when you engage, always a full lift with thread tension released . majority of the time sewing, I like to slightly knee lift not pushing the Disks Pin, and move material and not lose tension . . on ZZ-width . It might do 12mm ??? . but I never measure it for MAX width . ( for me ) My needles Scarf determines my ZZ width . When I tune it, after I center the needle . I only pay attention to the Needle on the Right - Left stroke move . I pay extremely close attention to the Hook passing back and forth in relation to the top and bottom of the needles Scarf . So when I see the Hook get to near touching inside top/bottom edges of Scarf.. That Where I Lock it Down on the width . I don't like tapping the Hook on each end of the Scarf cut-out, as it just promotes excessive Hook wear in the long run. So I Really Doubt, I am pushing the factory 12mm width advertisement propaganda ...LOL .

OK.. I have a 146RB that I bought new about 22 years ago, A japan made, and Consew has made the 146RB for Loooong time, so it nothing less than a solid design straight/zigzag stitch industrial workhorse . I still sew on this thing regularly several times a week. I am only one who has ever tuned it up every few years, and about the only thing I changed on it since bought, is a few new needle plates, and I did put a fresh new Hook/bobbin assembly in it . On the tune-up . If the machine stitching will move threw Strait and Zigzag stitch, both forward and reverse, and in all the SPI adjustments, Without dropping stitches in any. Then it Good To Go . I have a couple other machines that I will sew # 138 thread with . The 146RB, I Only Sewn using text 70 and 90 nylon thread with it since the day I bought it. It lays down nice stitches on about everything you feed threw under the feet with 70 and 90 like a champ. BUT today .. I was curious about using #138 reading your problems. So today I stung it up with 138 to see if I notice anything obvious as your culprit . ( only using the straight Stitch ) not ZigZag stitch . The times I used 138 today it was always hit or miss on what your describing on the upper thread tension being constantly difficult to pull up a good centered knot . Sometimes the the knot was hidden, and sometimes it was sitting proud exposed when going threw some different bobbin and top tension adjustments. I don't exactly know what to tell you for a sure fix . The machine is heavy enough to handle 138 . ( I think ) if you wanting to it to sew 138, you can dedicate it to sew138 with the proper top thread tension adjustments . The machines top tension Definitely lacks the tension adjustment to do it properly . 146rb only has one tension disk assembly, It Is a little on the wimpy side for factory tension assembly, and factory tension, and disks spring ( for Sure ) is way to weak . The Bobbin Case is GTG with using #138 thread size going threw and under the leaf spring and routed across threw the bobbin case back-cut . The Feed design of 146rb is, Drop-Feed/Walking Foot . it not Unison/triple feed . But that the nature of the beast if you want a combo straight/zigzag stitch machine . The 146RB does not have a big foot lift height, and the center needle foots 'needle hole' is pretty big long and width . The Needle-Plate hole is the same with a wide long cut hole, It has to be because of being a Combo stitch . for leather I would bet that be another problem, as you going to get a lot of bottom pucker with that big needle hole on the needle-plate, with needle and thread pushing material on the down stroke . Also with Needles . I like to buy the ( Organ brand ) . The needle Scarf on Organ is cut long enough to take advantage of the full width of zigzag adjustment the 146 can give you . If you do sideXside comparison of different needles, the Scarf length will vary with the manufacture . .

Does your manual read like this ? - -

Your choices of 'lighter' 2nd machine choice . I have both RB and 1541 . Both good machines . Both will sew same as far as your 1000 den. or lighter weight. But both will easy sew threw multi-layers of urethane backed 1000 den. with #69/t-70 , Both lay down nice stitching. both have under-table bobbin load assembly . Between the two, RB feels smoother on sewing when you let it roll and punching . 1541 feels little different with tiny more 'lope' going into it's down-stroke when rolling . The 1541 has a double-tension disk setup, and the RB does not . 1541 will sew comfortably sew 138. just route the 138 over the other 2nd tension disk/change needle, and sew . 1541.. I never tried, but 'I suspect' will do 207 on some materials with taking more time for setting it up proper . if can be done ? , then I sure someone here on this forum has done it . .

For individual machine work lights I searched for longtime, those little cheep sold, flex-neck China LED light Really Suck. I used to buy them by the dozen. They have cheep thin, and short goose neck. The LED diodes are cheep, and get dimmer on the illumination by the month with use. I finally threw all of them in the Trash can. The only sew machine magnetic work lights that I plug into my machines now is the LED model sold by 'ArtisanSew' . Those are the Best available. The LED's are heavy magnet, 'Super Bright' Cob LED diode array, with 'Long Heavy-duty' quality flex goose-neck. - -

My flatbed/bottom feed, with presser-foot wheel actually does a nice job stitching also . I just keep it slow steady on the feed and it will lay down some nice stitches . Presser wheel with bottom feed is really still pretty smooth stitching and will do nice work. My Post Bed, I really have never used it for anything other than doing seams on the bottom of Bags that I do. but I really needed the Post bad if I was to seriously continue on with that particular pattern that I sell. .

- I think all the import ( 810 models ) Post Beds in your link share all the same drive, and that is just typical bottom feed dogs . the 810 import models 'have Reverse' like the OP is asking about, but No wheel Dog, and No presser-wheel drive . and that is why they are all sub-2-K in pricing . .edit add: The difference between sewing with, my flatbed with Presser Wheel, bottom feed dog . And my Post Bed with duel drive top and bottom drive roller. Is like night and day for Feeding . Nothing is smoother feed than laying down stitches with duel roller feed . Materials just glide . Turning radius stitch is also superior to just using a standard Presser-foot wheel, with typical bottom feed dog .

Edit Add: the US dealers doing machines under their own brand names . They seem to share this import build model Post Bed ( 4618 ) for sales . It about the most budget minded for a Roller-foot duel drive Post ... but No Reverse stitch . The price for the added Reverse model takes the price up over your 2500-$ limit . On a quick internet search, looks like .. Springfield leather, Artisan, Highlead, and most likely couple other US dealers carry the model . .

I have still got a couple machines without reverse in my stable, and old Singer 112, and a Roller Foot Post Bed 7-inch post. On the Post Bed, reverse would be nice, is not a 100% must to have, not having just adds couple extra moves for me doing a back stitch . But it has a Drive Feed, so i really not have anything to bitch about. IMHO, instead of concentrating on having a Post Bed with Reverse . As the priority, I would concentrate funds on getting one with Single or Dual Drive . 2nd priority is Reverse stitch you saying only ...( 2-k to 2500-$ ) for budget in getting a Roller Foot post bed . I would take a Post that has single or duel drive and No reverse any day . Over a Post Bed with roller-foot and just a Bottom-Feed that has Reverse . .

a Nice Find . -

Thank You . .

YES.... mine also has the motor cord off back of, that protrudes out past the table top dimension . table Rolls on the castor wheels and Power cord smacks against wall . It will eventually cause a malfunction if smacked enough. I was just thinking about that cord today when rolling it out and sewing on it . ( me ) , I am going to get a 'door stop' and mount to the back edge of the table top as a buffer/stop, before plug-in cord smacks against wall again . .

..." It's Not Rocket Science ....LOL unless your asked to design and rig for a parachute rocket recovery system . I have been asked to do that . Well obviously you know what your doing , So maybe ?? You want to use Nylon thread for strength and abrasion resistance on Rigging for the singular purpose of Pull/Lift . after you pull or lift, if dirty, wash or brush clean, store the webbing gear back in the Box . If you are Rigging for 'Tie-Down ' restraint, and it will be doing it's life 24-7 and continuously outdoors left out in the daytime Sun . Use Poly thread and webbing . For your wider, webbing heavy type rated . I would want more than a simple Box-X stitch than you mentioned doing . ( for me ) I would do no less than an 8-point stitch pattern, with the appropriate thread cord size. Also you also might consider incorporation a 'chafing strip' in the hardware wrap, as it makes for longer life for the friction point that is most important . . Also you said ..." At the 4-wheeling events they have people at them that cut and sew". If your there, that sounds like a good place for you to ask and get some advise. Ask them to show you stitch patterns they use for different jobs, different rated webbing's and thread/cord sizes used. Also watch them sew, and watch the ' proper order of completion ' used in stitching of patterns . .

Dude sorry, I was not trying to insult you at all with what I typed in the post . You asking about Poly. or Nylon webbing for you sewing a Tie-Strap ? . If you blindly sewing by example off one of your many tie-straps you own for your Quad hauling. Then you grabbing some 1-inch poly or nylon webbing off Ebay and sewing a friction buckle to one end with a Box-X stitch pattern, with whatever thread your using ? .. you will probably ??? be OK . Your Load will probably not be all over the highway . and Really ? . If all we are talking about here is you wanting just a tie-down strap for securing a Quad your hauling on a camping trip. it a lot cheaper for you to just go over to Walmart and buy a cheep Poly Chinese tie-strap, than sewing your own. ' Unless ' you are wanting to Rig something special for yourself ? You sewing a box-X is a good 'basic' starting point for you . box-X is just 1 basic stitch pattern, that is used for attaching hardware to any number of different type webbing's . This ---> Respectfully, I don't think you have any idea of just how in depth the subject goes . Sewing Rigging Lift/Load/weight/Stitch pattern, and proper material choice . And Dude.. there is a thousand years of formal technique and knowledge for proper Rigging Leather Lift/weight/Load, also with work Animal . There's a lot of people here with a lot of different sew knowledge that can help you . Especially if you wanting to prefab something you have never tried before. You not really saying what you are building ? for what weight load ?, or what size type/rated webbing you wanting to try/use ?, or what size of sewing machine you have access to ? .

Yes..What ( KGG say's ) . from all your questions asked . You don't have any knowledge of sewing, so you should not be doing Rigging for 'any serious' Lift and Load/weight Bearing . I NOT trying to be a A-hole.. but The subject is serious enough, that there is even a world standard and adopted proper techniques for Lift/Load/life saving device, and ' Sewing ' . I'm not even talking about big serious weight or life saving harnesses . Even a simple Tow-Strap under Load-stretch, when breaking can cause Very serious damage . .

Does the Amperage draw, have a play in the low end torque ? I would think it does. how many Amp's does this drive use ? . I know the Servo Drives don't use but small amount of Amp draw to run . it varies ( like about 3 to 6 amp ) depending on the make/models Spec's . .

Also.. pretty deceiving in the advertisement Vid. . I would have liked to see it punching thew some material that they actually could brag about with using that 750 watt servo drive . That stack of Poly Webbing is Not high density weave like they say . It actually really loose weave strap webbing, and super easy to punch . .

Your needle bar does very slightly pendulum/swing on it's Up/Down, but all 3 bars are in alignment ( Outer, inner and needle ) .. but like ( TrashTreasure ) saying, Only contact for feeding direction is center Presser Foot and Dog . With that moving centered between the 2-toes of your Outer Presser Foot, and it is only moving a up/down to hold material utilizing the Needle Plate to do this when the center foot is feeding with Dog's . OK .. Are you sure this is not just an optical illusion that the material is Not feeding straight as it's sewn ? You push materials into your Machines Feed . but Many times when sewing materials on machines . The materials being sewn will draw to one side ( curve ) with the added top/bottom thread, and tension of it being sewn . Only appearing to be moving off-center on the feed direction as you watch it leave your machines feed . .

last drive I got, This one I am pretty happy with . Japaneses brand, Nitron , NT-750 brushless servo , and with using a 'small' belt-pulley . very user friendly on the button controls also . Plenty of Punch power behind needle even crawling along slow . https://www.amazon.ca/NITRON-NT-750W-3500RPM-Sewing-Machine/dp/B07SRH41Y8 -