nylonRigging

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder ? also what size thread you using on that canvas ? Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? . did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ? the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results . Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off . That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up . for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do . that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. Is binding threw .. 2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 . That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material . . working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius. .

from older thread here . - KeystoneMasterPagesScrews.pdf -

the sound is normal . I kind of prefer the 1st stitch crawl slow on the 1st stroke of the stitching . you need to find a down-load of the manual anyway to see all the setting choices .. but ( imho ) , I would just leave that program set the way it is . It is always nice to see the needle slowly plunge exactly where you want it, before it takes off on the run . .

Is that an action that is just programed in ? . I have a servo drive that giving the 1st stitch a , slow lagging RPM stroke , is an option that you can choose . .

You can try the Skunk spray wash . Never hurts to try before tossing it, or cutting it up for scrap . 1 Quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide - 1/3 Cup of Baking Soda - 1 Teaspoon of Dishwashing Liquid . .

If your talking about the Pic. on the 3rd Post down from top, on this page , poster Feb 6 2017 , made by ( gregg keystone sewing ) . ? . it is binder and Bracket, made by Tennessee Attachment Co. . He listed Part# in the post also . I have had that exact set-up once from TA, and if you prefer to go in that style direction for a swing-arm setup . it is a Heavy Duty and top notch hardware, along with their Solder work with the head/throat of the binder . .

And In a Ideal World , Both bobbins on my double-needles would always end-up empty, exactly same every time. ...LOL .

Your Question in your Post, ..." I was wondering if anyone knew how much I could sew with 1 bobbin on 5 SPI with this machine ". 'On average' How many 20ft. runs can you get from one bobbin of thread ? . your question revolves around ' knowing how many yards is on your full Bobbin ' . Then What Uwe, is saying .. figure out how many inches length, you can sew with a yard of Bobbin thread . Then 'know' how many yards are on a Bobbin your filling . Your question is something I never ever thought about finding , so out of curiosity I put a Yard ( 36") of bobbin thread in a 111 to see ? . with t70/69 , and 5 spi . with having a 2 inch of loose thread tail , I sewed about ( 28.5 ) inches of stitch length , for 36" of bobbin thread . .

How many 20 Ft. runs you sew with a bobbin of thread, ? . with sewing stitch run, 5 spi , ??? What size of thread ? are you rolling onto a Bobbin ? , How full do you wind your Bobbins ? , How long length of thread tails, do you pull to cut at the end of each stitch run ? .

I am assuming that both flatbed machines have a ' Knee lift ' for press foot raise up/down ? The one machine that does not have a hand lever lift, for presser foot . Is it missing ? . Or was Head, never produced with on ? You could always find the machine model that Mercury cloned that particular model from, and find if it ever had a hand lift lever . Or find parts #'s if it did, and add those parts, to your Mercury head . - hey ?? also in your website profile you write ..." interested in sewing Human skin products ". are you Jame Gumb, aka/buffalo bill ? “ It puts the lotion in the basket, or it gets the hose again ” ....LOL .

I have/use that Post Artisan model . Only job I use it for, is for bottom of bag seams I running right now . You get 2 bobbin size choices also in that 4618 from Artisan, or others selling . If you go the M-bobbin , just remember the feed end of Post is a tad larger in size , because it has to accommodate the larger bobbin assembly . That Duel-feed Post is a real smooth feeder, It has a small amount of Needle-feed motion in it also . also/no Reverse, but (for me) that is no biggie. The Artisan 4618 is same as the Cowboy 8810 , that Wiz posted link on . that Postbed body/sew mechanics is a real popular cloned model sold by several . Don't know where your US Area zip-code Is ? I heard that Artisan sell quite a few of those Postbeds to Leather Class down in Cal. area. . If you living in Cali. I would keep looking in used Craiglist for people dumping them when they get bored with their newfound hobby , If looking for a used Buy on the Artisan 4618 , I never seen used Artisan Post-bed around here . Seen a used Pfaff Post, dual drive last week in the craiglist , but it went pretty quick . Used .. Pfaff is another way to go if looking for used, and they are solid with several Post model choices, but Pfaff is a little spendy-$ on the OEM parts if needing . --- If you looking to buy New, Just call Artisan and talk to 'Chester' and ask if they have one in-stock . About a month ago, I called them and asked about 'time-line' on their next order for machines . Was told they are making up an order for machines for the end of Dec. or 1st end of January . So right now would be good to get on their list if wanting one. .

You saying .."40 TPI " . . I just checked on a Mitzu. DB on the factory tapped holes on it's bed top . I threaded-in some ( 6-40 ) and they threaded in and bottomed out holding firm . But they did feel a little tiny sloppy when I was threading them in . Cast metal Heads are kind of soft easy to drill/tap . So I cant tell if it just a sloppy Tap work at factory ? . . Or it is some proprietary Thread size/pitch, that Mitsubishi used, that is real close to 6-40 ? .

Backside Pin notches probably just worn pretty bad on the backside of your Dial knob . Does not take that much pressure of the spring/pin to keep it from turning . I would just get ta new turn dial . People man handle and force the turning of the Stitch-length Dial . It wears out the backside of the Dal . Always push down little bit on the Reverse Lever, to release pressure on that Dial spring/pin , so it turns smooth easy when changing stitch length's . .

Are you talking about the small / simple, single wooden drawer ? - -

I think they/Artisan only put speed reduction pulley w/servo drive, on their heavier duty machines . The drive servo and pulley reduction on my heavy Artisan Cylinder Bed, is a torque brute . - No , on the Artisan model 2618-1B . the pic is Drive on one of there dual drive Post Beds machines . but relevant because ( IMHO ) this Post Bed not heavy duty Artisan industrial machine, and this Servo Drive is probably same Servo used with their current lighter weight machines . - Have no complaints yet , they have pretty good customer service also, easy to contact and talk over phone . Have a crapload of hours on their 441 clone , and only had their Post Bed about a year . Both machines are pretty solid workers . And that is my biggest interest in any machine I buy .. It Has to be Dependable runner, or it going back out the door . Tables are set-up right and tight, and are good plywood/Lam. tops , ( No cheep Press board tops ) . Have other machines, Singer, Consew, Mitsu, Juki ...etc. ( my ) main reasons for going with them/Artisan, is their competitively priced . W. Coast US established, with me up North in W. Oregon . They don't take your payment till the machine is shipped . Good CS . and Trucking/Shipping has been under 200-$ usd up North to Oregon for me. .

I have 2 Artisan machines . in-house set-up . 'one with' reducer , and one 'without' speed reducer . When buying the Artisan machine with the spec's. that read 'without reducer' . That was also the 1st question I had, before I bought this last machine from them . So I called them and they reassured me that it not needed . . All I can say is that I have Zero Complaints with their drive motors they brand and install that have No reducer . programmable, and It adjustable to go as slow as you choose . I was pleasantly surprised that Low torque power is there also . So here is 2 Pic's. of the Drive 'without reducer' . pulley off the drive is a smaller 50mm Diam. . I don't know the Servo manufacture that Artisan put there brand on but they seem to make good choice on there servo purchase . - - -

IMHO .. that not looking to bad at all . I don't see any rust or pitting . as long as it not froze with old varnished oil ? . Just looks like it was neglected on any cleaning . Me .. I would just blow it all out with Air Hose, and then manual oil All friction points , taking my time and rotating the hand wheel . Then string it up, and turn-ON the motor drive . Run it for hour or so sewing lightweight scraps, then get a good feel for what you got going on mechanically . I would just lay a small towel in the bottom of the oil drip-pan , Then after you over-oil the whole machine, you can clean the drip-pan out latter. After blowing it all out with Air . If it tight rolling and sticking with rotating hand wheel . I would pump some hot air to it with Hair Dryer on Hot . or a heat gun set on 'low heat' . That will loosen all the old oil and lint and get all rolling smooth . .

craiglist is going to be a hit and miss for finding good clean cylinder bed in reasonable driving distance . If you wanting brand name, and will hold a better resale value over time . the Juki 1341 that ( kgg ) mentioned is ...Great . . You are living in NorCal. . if you do end-up buying new clone import . 'for Me' .. I would just contact Artisan Sew in Bay area Cal. , call and ask 'what is in stock' . You can get into walk compound feed, medium duty cylinder setup for 1800-$ to 2300 . along with consew/juki/singer... I run a couple of Artisan setups on cylinder and post machines , they run solid, and setup with a quality servo drive . Have good customer service . Shipping for me from bay area up to Portland trucking hub for me to pick it up, was about 190-$ last time I brought one up here . So you shipping closer in-state would probably far less-$ . .

Those, 3-prong/spur T-bolts . If you buying more than a few, . It is pretty cheep price and fast shipping from ' MonsterBolts ' . they have their website. and also sell of off ebay or Amazon . Last bags of, 1/4"x20 - 7/16" , were 16-$ shipped, for bags of 100 . .

The kwan Hing raised feed dog/needle plate fit pretty smooth easy, was really nothing that was off on fit and finish . Their feed dog change-out was just like any other feed dog on that model machine . - -

1st post ? .. 1st sewing machine ? .. You got a few things going on there ? . People on the forum could ( guess ? ) explain any number of possible different 'cause of problem' scenarios for you to pick and choose from . but .. Your already saying that your way over your head, lacking mechanical knowledge for the machine diagnosis and repair . Don't Punish Yourself . Fix it fast and correctly the 1st time , find/hire a Tech. to assess the problem and do what is needed . . edit add: Where do you live ? unless you are isolated area away from civilization ...LOL , and repair Tech. is impossible to find or you drive to his location . Get a factory model schematics parts diagram, then off the list of problem/fix possibilities you collect here . Start studying and take your time in finding and fixing the problems . .

The zigZags do pop-up here off and on regularly , and Speak of the Devil ... LOL.HAhahaha . and 1st thing I see when I clik on the Craiglist to take a quick browse .. and I see what you Jonesing For . A nice clean little ( 107w5 ) ... . . But it killing me a little to, as that machine model was the very 1st machine I bought to learn to sew . https://portland.craigslist.org/clk/for/d/vancouver-singer-industrial-sewing/7393692542.html . EDIT ADD : Craiglist will tease you.. cant beat it .. Just noticed this popup today .. If you in the N.W. , ( OR. WA. area ?? ) IF wanting a good buy on a , 40" Longarm ? Singer 144W302 compound feed . This machine Head is just begging for a fresh new table set-up . Looks priced to move @ 1500-$ .. or Best Offer . https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bfs/d/port-hadlock-singer-144w302-long-arm/7390184967.html .

( IMHO ) .. just start with the small fine tooth and smallest needle hole plate , then can easy move up larger, if you cant get the results you want . the dogs, plates, feet ..etc. are all pretty cheap cost anyway for that set-up . So no biggie on owning multiple Feed sets . I think if you play around for one day with sewing sample pieces of thin/lightweight materials . You probably make the fine fabric dogs work great on the Feed with your choice of press foot, pressure, and tension . ( same type yours ) . I use the largest/heavy feed dogs/needle plate on similar set-up on one of my bottom feeds , but I tuned it to thump threw thick and heavy with a, size# 20 and 22 needle and t-70/#69 . I would not use that combo if I sewing light and thin material, and it for sure be crappy results . .

Why ,.. Med. or Large feed dog and plate ---> If you sewing light/thin ? A 'smaller' size needle hole on the fine-tooth plate . You will get far less pucker, getting punched/shoved threw hole around the needle . .

The Craiglist here, 'industrial zigzags' and combo zigzag/straight-stitch . There been a few of them in this area popup steady . Industrial zigzags, They definitely not as prevalent as straight-stitch industrial. My area here I guesstimate it about 2% out of a hundred straight-stitch machines for sale are zigzag . Never seeing any in your AO is a little weird . .