nylonRigging

On a stitch when needle is down, and you stop sewing . If you just lift needle from the material and try to freely draw the upper/needles thread . It not going to go even with you letting off thread tension . . ( just my guess ? ) .. When you stopped with needle plunged threw your material . Move your needles cycle with the hand wheel, up and past top of stroke and on it's way n the down-stroke, then Stop . You should be able to pull the top thread freely when tension is released . .

I questioned them about their ( ZZ 217 ) machine , and it being close clone/copy of the original 217-08 made in Switzerland . They told they will sell a cam box to me, but they will not guarantee it fitting to the original Bernina 217-08 . .

Well, when you find one, grab an extra one for me to ...LOL OHhhh, that 217 double needle clamp, and also grab me a Cam Reader Box .....HAHAHAHA There pretty much unicorns , and people who have them along with their old 217's never sell them, even though they never set-up with and use use for double needle work . Same as Cam Reader box. I know one guy with 3 of them, but only way to get one off him will be to steal one after he's dead . .

Size Needle ? . Size Thread used ? the machine just started doing this ? . or you just get machine, and just starting trying to get tension balance down for machine ? It sounds like just simple basic tension problem . with the Bobbin tension to Loose, with top thread to Much Pull/tension pulling bobbin thread proud, when the knot should be hidden . Have you been moving bottom tension higher or lowering the top thread tension to find a good balance ? .

The identity is in your picture . it a Consew, model 80 . .

I understand exact what you saying . I got that exact stand on a machine setup . I windup straddling the left front castor wheel and working both peddles with R-Foot . The stand is quality, but user friendly/ergonomics is lacking for sure . .

The little flat plate bed, that looks to make a slick little work platform . Nice job. .

Yes, for feeding materials it helps make sure that the binding's inside-outer edge is always consistently full and flush with the materials you feeding into it . It just one of those things that helps . ( my opinion ) you want push-tab to be at least as long, so matching where the machines Needle plunging stroke is . .

- Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material ? that looks pretty slick and clean . .

This particular 441 KH Binder that I set-up . I only have run about 250 yard of binding threw it so far, but overall I am pretty pleased with their hardware design . Setting up Binders is always a small pain in ass and eats up many hours of your time till you get it all smooth and GTG . Every guy out there that been sewing for years has their own techniques for Binder set-up and personal built techniques for Binding. Ok lets start here . how did you set-up your binder and swing arm ? , your binder set-up is going to make or break the finished outcome. also synchronized binder is not as easy as ( for example ) a Needle-feed . Unison Feed, you need to witness the feet movement with the swing-arm, but try to get the binder head slotted-in as close as you can . here a pic of what I usually do .. trim feet to get binder head in . I found their Foot in the set-up was really not what I prefer, so just grid/trimmed and Modified a stock Foot . & Also DON'T Ask ??? why . .. but this model KH binder set-up has NO push-bar at exit of the throat . it's pretty ridiculous that they did not, as you Very Much Need tracking of the binding material exiting the throat of held firm as you feed materials against it . ..but for the Good price of the whole set-up they offer .. I DID NOT Bitch to much about the it at all....LOL So I, Drill & Tap a small piece of angle then trimmed to work with the synchronized movement . I put a Red Arrow to show the piece of material push bar . - - and this, the 1st Item tried binding on the new Binder Set-Up . -

you were taling about Artisan . forgot.. was going to mention also have that Artisan 1541 , as well as their duel drive post, and the 3200 . The motor they use on that 1541 is a brushless servo, with a tiny around 30mm 35mm pulley. the motor is strong, machine runs great .. but ( personal opinion ) I think the Consew ' like a 206rb ' is smoother machine to run. definitely the Consew bobbin assembly/mechanics are more user friendly to. But the Juki copy/1541 is a good machine that has been made for a lot of years. lots of presser feet sets to choose from also. .

Hey.. was that in-stock @ Artisan ? , or did you order it up ? . if ordered for build and delivery , how long was the wait , ( months ) till was here in Frisco. US Port of entry/customs for there pick-up to the Artisan shop . Have bought a couple of machines from them in past, and they were always GTG for info and fast shipping to truck hub up I-5 here in Portland . Was thinking of ordering something specific from them , but was unsure with all the International shipping delays, what the ( Real Life Del. time ) was this year ? .....thanks .

You going to have to drill and Tap for best mounting results on the R-side slide plates. you will be guaranteed also to take it off, and re-drill and tap again, to fine-tune it's position . But if screw it up or not happy, is no biggie , because L and R-side slide plates are easy to get and cheep for the old singers . Start by trimming/notching the R-side of presser foot toe, to get a good starter point for the binders position . also dremel trim off flush, the underside of the bolt sticking threw . so plate will slide in and out , and also not to interfere with the bobbins movement . When you get Binder into working position, tight into presser foot Notch you cut . You will probably also cut/shorted the length of the material push Bar that tails off the exit of the binders Throat . and also might have to trim the bottom some to make sure it clean and not tagging the feed dogs on their up-lift movement . .

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder ? also what size thread you using on that canvas ? Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? . did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ? the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results . Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off . That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up . for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do . that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. Is binding threw .. 2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 . That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material . . working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius. .

from older thread here . - KeystoneMasterPagesScrews.pdf -

the sound is normal . I kind of prefer the 1st stitch crawl slow on the 1st stroke of the stitching . you need to find a down-load of the manual anyway to see all the setting choices .. but ( imho ) , I would just leave that program set the way it is . It is always nice to see the needle slowly plunge exactly where you want it, before it takes off on the run . .

Is that an action that is just programed in ? . I have a servo drive that giving the 1st stitch a , slow lagging RPM stroke , is an option that you can choose . .

You can try the Skunk spray wash . Never hurts to try before tossing it, or cutting it up for scrap . 1 Quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide - 1/3 Cup of Baking Soda - 1 Teaspoon of Dishwashing Liquid . .

If your talking about the Pic. on the 3rd Post down from top, on this page , poster Feb 6 2017 , made by ( gregg keystone sewing ) . ? . it is binder and Bracket, made by Tennessee Attachment Co. . He listed Part# in the post also . I have had that exact set-up once from TA, and if you prefer to go in that style direction for a swing-arm setup . it is a Heavy Duty and top notch hardware, along with their Solder work with the head/throat of the binder . .

And In a Ideal World , Both bobbins on my double-needles would always end-up empty, exactly same every time. ...LOL .

Your Question in your Post, ..." I was wondering if anyone knew how much I could sew with 1 bobbin on 5 SPI with this machine ". 'On average' How many 20ft. runs can you get from one bobbin of thread ? . your question revolves around ' knowing how many yards is on your full Bobbin ' . Then What Uwe, is saying .. figure out how many inches length, you can sew with a yard of Bobbin thread . Then 'know' how many yards are on a Bobbin your filling . Your question is something I never ever thought about finding , so out of curiosity I put a Yard ( 36") of bobbin thread in a 111 to see ? . with t70/69 , and 5 spi . with having a 2 inch of loose thread tail , I sewed about ( 28.5 ) inches of stitch length , for 36" of bobbin thread . .

How many 20 Ft. runs you sew with a bobbin of thread, ? . with sewing stitch run, 5 spi , ??? What size of thread ? are you rolling onto a Bobbin ? , How full do you wind your Bobbins ? , How long length of thread tails, do you pull to cut at the end of each stitch run ? .

I am assuming that both flatbed machines have a ' Knee lift ' for press foot raise up/down ? The one machine that does not have a hand lever lift, for presser foot . Is it missing ? . Or was Head, never produced with on ? You could always find the machine model that Mercury cloned that particular model from, and find if it ever had a hand lift lever . Or find parts #'s if it did, and add those parts, to your Mercury head . - hey ?? also in your website profile you write ..." interested in sewing Human skin products ". are you Jame Gumb, aka/buffalo bill ? “ It puts the lotion in the basket, or it gets the hose again ” ....LOL .

I have/use that Post Artisan model . Only job I use it for, is for bottom of bag seams I running right now . You get 2 bobbin size choices also in that 4618 from Artisan, or others selling . If you go the M-bobbin , just remember the feed end of Post is a tad larger in size , because it has to accommodate the larger bobbin assembly . That Duel-feed Post is a real smooth feeder, It has a small amount of Needle-feed motion in it also . also/no Reverse, but (for me) that is no biggie. The Artisan 4618 is same as the Cowboy 8810 , that Wiz posted link on . that Postbed body/sew mechanics is a real popular cloned model sold by several . Don't know where your US Area zip-code Is ? I heard that Artisan sell quite a few of those Postbeds to Leather Class down in Cal. area. . If you living in Cali. I would keep looking in used Craiglist for people dumping them when they get bored with their newfound hobby , If looking for a used Buy on the Artisan 4618 , I never seen used Artisan Post-bed around here . Seen a used Pfaff Post, dual drive last week in the craiglist , but it went pretty quick . Used .. Pfaff is another way to go if looking for used, and they are solid with several Post model choices, but Pfaff is a little spendy-$ on the OEM parts if needing . --- If you looking to buy New, Just call Artisan and talk to 'Chester' and ask if they have one in-stock . About a month ago, I called them and asked about 'time-line' on their next order for machines . Was told they are making up an order for machines for the end of Dec. or 1st end of January . So right now would be good to get on their list if wanting one. .

You saying .."40 TPI " . . I just checked on a Mitzu. DB on the factory tapped holes on it's bed top . I threaded-in some ( 6-40 ) and they threaded in and bottomed out holding firm . But they did feel a little tiny sloppy when I was threading them in . Cast metal Heads are kind of soft easy to drill/tap . So I cant tell if it just a sloppy Tap work at factory ? . . Or it is some proprietary Thread size/pitch, that Mitsubishi used, that is real close to 6-40 ? .