nylonRigging

If ? .. in the end, you cant find a replacement screw with compatible Singer Co. thread pitch and proper length . You could just 'slightly' over-bore the original inside Diam. of the hole . and then just ( hand Tap with T-handle ) . Tap/cut the thread pitch to more common and easy to find thread size . Hand Tap is very easy to do, if the hole is easy accessible, or just remove the part and put in a vice to hold and drill and Tap . If the hole is a real small Diam. Just take it slow and easy, use plenty of fluid and keep cleaning Tap and chips out, so to not snap a tiny Tap off in the hole. .

I want to Bump Up this thread on 'snips ' . If you do go to the goldstartool website and buy snip. ( don't mistake ) those 'GS' house branded snips, for the Touro Tesoura snips . They look the same on the webpages, same price, But they NOT even the same quality of snips ....LOL They sell ( 2 ) brands of 4-1/2" snips . the Touro are 'GOOD' deal/good quality . Those 'GS' house branded snips are a BIG Step down below there quality . Using the two brands sideXside in the hand cutting and visually, those Touro Tesoura snips have better looking blade grind, better finish and obviously better quality control over those GS snips sold there. .

That is the main reason in getting delays on orders being put in . One person test positive, That person goes home for 14 days, and then everyone else that 'thinks' they had 'possible' contact can go home for 14 days. Seems like everyone is waiting for something that is not getting filled on-time with making an order. I been waiting since Nov. for an order of 1-k buckles from distributor, and they finally got they order going out to me ups today . From what they are saying to me on phone calls , It's just the normal quantity demand for the items, but Both, them/distributor and the manufacture have been running shorthanded on staff/employees from all the covid horseshit that is still going on. .

That machine has been sewing for how many years without having it ? ... So (IMHO ) you just over thinking it . Just Sew with it . It probably has no reverse lever, still it is a really good all-around machine to have in your stable. Easy to work on, and easy find and inexpensive parts also . .

I was going to say but forgot . are you using 135x5 needles ? . I think you can just set-up your machine with 135x17 no problem with raising the needle bar a tad bit to compensate for the little longer needle . Also .. ( if you don't already know ? ) . you can also throw a 'roller foot' on that bottom feed of yours with that presser rod and common high-shank split toe foot, and set it up in 20-30 minutes, and they really sew great. Those roller foot aftermarket kits for your Mitsu. and a Ton of other similar models are mass produced and dirt cheep . Come in small/medium/large rollers . The kits come with all parts dogs/needle plate/flip-up roller foot. all for less than 20-$ - -

Hey .. Thanks for the Post of the Link I do own good gingher and mundial's sheers as well as using the cheap snips , and these are good Snip's . I bought 4 of them to check out and use, and these snips are really good quality . ( just a heads-up ) The sale price right now probably not going on past the new year, but these snips are going for only $-9 .99 apiece . I do love the cheep eagle disposable snips, and I been buying them for Years, but a guy could get spoiled using good snips ....LOL . . Only 'time' will tell the true quality of the stainless blades, but they handle nice, the tooling and grind look GTG and they snip in close and tight on the smaller #69 as well as the heavier thread cord #277 and 346 . .

Poly. thread does stretch, it just that Nylon thread stretches more than Poly. like ( DoninReno ) saying, the general 'rule of thumb' is that Poly.thread tends to be more UV resistant and hold dye color better when getting a beating by UV . Nylon is better for holding up for abrasion and a little higher tensile strength over Poly. Nylon and Poly. thread both start melt right around the same Temp. , When burning each they also smell totally different . When melting thread tails, the Nylon thread melt a lot nicer than Poly thread . I like the way Nylon thread tails makes a nice little puddle. Poly. thread tends to just Flame-on pretty intense and quick . You also notice when hot knifing/cutting Nylon thread weave of webbing's and nylon fabrics, that it's a lot cleaner/nicer melt with Nylon. .

If you like a thread feeding hole on the sides of the barrel to poke the thread tail threw on the rewind , Don't order those China heavy steel chrome plated 441 bobbins off ebay/amazon . Good price, but they only notch them for the pin to set, but they don't drill a hole. You can drill your own holes in the sides, but I had to make a jig to secure them on the drill press because of bobbins shape . I bought a dozen of them and the shaft holes are hit and miss for constancy on size, some loose but some you can Not slide shaft into it. The lightweight Aluminum barrels work great, if you can find them ? , and when sewing, there the 1st one's I grab . .

That is it . I figured it at least was minimum of 25 year old machine ... ( shoepatcher ) said it looks mid 80's) Seller looks like they also bought it used over 10 years, and just been sitting neglected for several years, So it going to be dry/oil and filthy . All depends on how hard it looks like it was worked over it life, Bed looks pretty worn showing many years of materials run across it . Needs a good looking over before considering spending any money for it and a scrubbing, oiling then going threw and eye-balling the mechanics for possible problems. Also if buying, Needs a new good Servo motor ( another 200-$ ) Adler a good name, but Reality is 'maybe' offer 500-$ at the most, because it is a small project to make it even respectable enough, to set in with my other machines . .

1st I heard of this . Was sitting at machine tonight and was going to toss snips in trash . Tried it tonight on a dull Eagle .99 cent snips . Ran the channel side of old needle back-forth over edge and they Snipping Again . learn something new everyday ....thanks .

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What am I looking at here ??? . I not really a follower of Adler machines, because of the extra expense of buying parts here in the US. , but this one popped-up here Locally, so I looking for some Adler fanboy advice. Any guess of Model, and year of production ?? I have minimal information given. ( Just this crappy Pic.) . and say's ..." it been in storage for the last 4 or 5 years " . .....thanks - -

this one a DB170 .. the green color is just a Teflon coating . The only bitch I have about the old Mitsubishi's are the smaller bobbins . .

I would not know as this particular machine has never sewn leather, but if It was sewing thin leather I am positive the dogs would leave deep track marks on the underside . This machine is tuned for heavy nylon with the extra heavy set of feed dogs with raised needle plate and 135x17 needle . It also servo has a extra small pulley wheel and speed control, if needing it can punch real slow RPM . For these Mitsu DB's and other similar builds, there is a 'fine' tooth dog set that you can get also for delicate items . There are a lot of easy common obtainable parts and these parts like DB mitsu. bottom feeds and there parts cross over to a boatload of other machines under many names. Also the OP stated that , ..." It stitches perfectly on a broad range of fabrics, and I am happy with this. But there is still a problem! " He might or might not be using on leather or not ??? . he probably using mostly on synthetics . But if the OP was using on thin leather and that leather panel was getting a lining to hide the tracks. then would not be a problem. some Bottom feeds can actually lay down some nice stitching when you tune them for a specific need. also they can get into really tight places with using and narrow feet . .

I not a subscribing vendor of the site, but your DB bottom feed should look all trim like this Mitsu. DB . that looks really Macgyver'ed-up for sure . This one, I turned the needle bar 45 deg. to put the set screw in foreword position, from it being on the R-side . - -

Those are meant to be disposable, so the Riveting is always cheaply done. Snip until there dull and just toss in the can and grab another sharp snip . There not made to resharpen, but lightweight and fast, and if you have a bunch of machines, then it easy way to got, just throw one of them on every machine . I always buy couple dozen a year of ( eagle Brand ) snip's . Buy them bulk-packs off Ebay and there only 1-$ each & free shipping . The Snip's link that ( joon1911 ) posted, from goldstartool , right now are the Best bang for the buck-$ .

exactly what ( chuck123wapati ) is saying. the seam for your application is major consideration . Just running a straight double-needle run on a double felled seam, is strongest for your description . on the opposite end of the spectrum for weakest seam, it would be a butt seam It also Not the ..." pull strength". like in your thread title. You are dealing more with a ' shear loading ' and not a straight pull, for the breaking point on the thread type strength rating . Shear Loading multiples 'greatly' the structural breaking point on thread, because the greater force on the Seam sewn is pulling lateral on both sides of the thread and seam . .

In a way, It is kind of like leather. as in soft and hard . Punching Nylon webbing is same. It Not necessarily how 'thick' a nylon webbing is, ..but It all really depends on just how tight 'dense' a weave is milled to . With the Adler 69 . I think you can do it with using 138 and using a type 13 webbing and be GTG with it in 2 layers . the type 13 nylon webbing, is a little softer weave ( not to say loose) but it not as hard to punch threw as some of the other heavier tight weaves of webbing out there . .

also.. Running different sizes of thread on your Nylon webbing for a Belt, is going make it less stiff or make more ridged depending on thread size. When your wearing and breaking the belt in to you body. Running heavy thicker thread and highs tension over time It will stay stiff ridged longer . I just did up a new 1.75" wide, 2-layers of type-13 a couple days ago for myself . Nylon heavy square weave webbing for belt, I usually just use 69 for just putting it together . If it a Belt for daily carry and adding stiffness rigidness. I run #207 or 277 down both side and two straight runs down the inside . For making less ridged and more softer after the break-in wear, then use 138 or go smaller size thread . Instead of just straight runs, you can trick it up a little bit also and do things like Diamond pattern and things down the center area in different color tones. .

90% of all Internet reviews ( like that ) are worthless and Shilled ...LOL .. also Every machine Links straight back to Amazon Sales . yes, was Rated 'Best' internet Shoe Cobbler by using intense research consisting of: ..." it has a high-gloss paint, with all metal construction ". .

Tough Neighborhood ??? ... LOL -

Ya the 269's cam 'fly wheel' underside horizontal is some type of lightweight composite, ( not sure exact materials ? ) .. but I been told a few times by tech's that Singer was Way Ahead of there time back then when designing that lightweight wheel . People don't think much these days on all the high-tech. lightweight composites out in year 2020 at there fingertip's for prefabbing an idea . from Poly's, Ti , carbon fiber ...etc. ' . but back then It must have been a huge hurtle to get over with a wheel that large diameter and weight, spinning that fast on the stitch cycle, and then trying to stop the weight inertia . That is what Singer came up with and a huge % of them are still spinning and stitching today 60-70 years latter. .

There are several of old 269's sitting around here in the NW. US. area . so parts are not to hard source. the NW was a pretty big outdoor gear, clothing manufacturing area at one time, we are blessed with a lot of old machines around and some good repair Tech's that are still breathing. the old 269 run fast and 'loud' , I don't think you can get them to cycle the stitch run slower ( guessing 1700 rpm ? ) I think that what factory recommends. my 269w is a ( 28 stitch) . the pneumatic set-up on it is pretty standard simple also. it just a single peddle, with heal-Down for pressfoot Up, and then tap the toe to top of peddle to start the cycle . Has good high lift on foot . and mine is using 135x5 needle, with 69E . Good machine is you not doing high volume production. The only pain in the ass with it I ever had, was always the thread cutter and it always was giving me fits. So it is No More and parts are laying in the drawer . .

I used to buy a lot of Nylon #69 and some #227 off Superior Thread Co. . I liked the quality of there nylon they sold, it was always nice and smooth thread and came of the rolls nice to. They used to have and mail-out, a specific color sample and thread size chart/card, they would send you for only Nylon/poly thread buying. Nylon is strong good for abrasion, and also in the terms of for specific application of static and dynamic, stretch is specified as very good thing. Looks like in this Vid. , Dr. Bob is a pedaling his goods for sale, to the neighborhood Quilting Bee . but.. Not making fun of quilting, as my Mom can kick my ass when sewing Quilts and crochet an Afghan. .

Raised feed dog and Raised needle plates, My go to, would be Tennessee Attachment, If anyone has them prefabbed.and in-stock for your model and all same design heads they would . I would just call and ask one of the Binder tech's there. . not something you going to find in a general internet sales search . Unless it for like a common singer 111-211 design head, and they are easy getting on ebay and amazon . .