nylonRigging

LOL.... Well he was asking about how/removing shuttle/hook ???? , easy to pull it out and remove replace what you want and put back . ( MaliMac said:  ) quote: ..." but still couldn't get the shuttle out, how do you remove it ? " And If nothing else .. It always good for him to see what the thing is and looks like, he is actually monkey wrenching on . .

it will slide strait-up and out, as it is all one unit on the shaft . look underside for a set-screw holding shaft position . should be very similar to this old Singer 112 bobbin assembly . - -

I opened your link . ( If this what talking about ? ) . The basket needs held for timing, You got to get a Needle Plate to hold the bobbin assembly in place from freely spinning . After than, then you can start to see if there are problems .

ya that Co. ( cutex sewing ) , i have bought a lot of odds and ends from them over last few years. Some are pretty good some not. I would guess about 1 or 2 out of 10 things are subpar on the quality, but the prices are China-Low so you can afford to just throw them away if they fall to far out of Spec. . That is a good price on the 'raised' single-needle plate and dogs . makes setting up single-needle Binding a much easier road on the old singers . I run a couple double-needle machines on binding and am pretty limited to where to get for, 'raised' dogs and plates for 2-needle Gauge sets . About only place I know of to get them is direct from Tenn. Attachment . Would love to find ? .. a less expensive alternative on the raised double-needles sets, so I could set-up several more gauge sizes on the needle spreads . .

That bottom Pic. . ( looks like ? ) You running a raised feed dog and raised throat plate, in conjunction with your Binders hardware . Once I started doing that it became much more easy getting the results I wanted . Your comment on ..." I can't find the odd colors needed in any purchased tapes or webbing ". .. finding that right color for your binding tapes I can relate to ..LOL . It can be a big PIA . That is a job in searching and sometime I just give up and just have a color dye run done at Bally Ribbon . If they don't have it in-stock, they will do you a color dye run for your binding or your webbing . there quality is always A+, and your get what you need. .

- Hows that Binder set-up tracking on the fold and feed to your materials ? With that Binder throat screwed down flat like that to slide-plate . Just wondering because I have set-up a lot of Binders on slide-plates, and looks like you have very little ways of changing throat angle positions ? talking about Deg. of angle changes, for throwing Binding feed, flowing top or Bottom side on the sew . --- I REALLY prefer a small swing bracket with 90 deg. throat, off the slide-plates for a 1st choice . But, If I had my mind made up for a larger hardware, bed-mount swing-bracket . The one that ( Gregg from Keystone ) put up in that pic. in his Post above in the Thread . I have had that larger swing-arm Bed mount, that Tenn.Attachment Co. set's-up . If going that direction... That would be my only go-to choice . as it a hardcore piece of craftsmanship they put out . .

So you do have a R-side slide plate . But you saying .." no holes drilled in it " ? All you have to do is just drill and tap your own holes in the slide plate to mount a fixed position or a swing-arm bracket for your seam binder . Then just drill/tap a keeper screw for plate hold down to stop any slide moment while sewing . It pretty straight forward to do and slide plates are cheap . It more compact than that added extra hardware, and all you do is remove the slide plate with binder , and slide in another plain flat plate if want to use machine other than binding . --- I have owned that exact larger bed bracket swing-arm years back on a seam binder attachment, along with the single smaller swing-arm bracket that is screwed to the Side slide plate in the Pic . and also still have and use a few binders with only using the slide plate mount swing brackets. In the Pic. by (mixmikr) . There is actually ( 2 ) swing-arm hinge brackets, there doing one job . a smaller swing-arm bracket screwed to the slide plate, and also a swing-away hing back on the Bed mount bracket attached to it . To each there own, but ( to me ) it a little redundant for 2 swing-arm brackets with using one binder attachment . I never liked that large hardware bracket and it did nothing but eat up a lot of room, and did not accomplish anything the small slide-plate mount swing-arm did with seam binding a job . The single smaller hardware, swing bracket on R-side slide plate, with seam bind attachment will do your work perfectly by itself . So Why ? then you join to a larger hardware, with swing bed mount bracket ? . . ( less is more ) and 1 mounted on the slide plate is better than ( 2 ) swing arms . . 2 swing arms is also double the hardware and it also leads to more adjustment moving movements, and added problems with hardware moving and falling out of your set adjustment . .

Is your machine not have a R-side slide plate like singer 111 or 212, or another clone machine, like being discussed in thread topic ? . Because the R-side slide-plate, will completely mount/hold a ( swing away ) R-angle seam binder attachment you use. you don't need to use that bed attachment swing arm with mounting to your bed . .

Nice find . could use a couple sizes of those edge-guide Center feet . There is Something on there website you linked on there ( Co.main page ) about suspension of overseas shipping ? cant read Chinese for details ? . but if they not shipping at this moment, it probably only temporary till the Covid19 fiasco stops being the accepted normal . .

Don't know ?? if you going to find that detailed depth info with Leather and Thread . In the Para. Rigging industry there is books full of this mind numbing info . The Rigging topic has intense in-depth study of all, structural load strengths, shear strengths, shock load strengths, abrasion strengths and failures of fabrics, webbing's and all the Threads, and with all hardware's the fabrics and threads come into contact with being sewn . All done over the years because of aircraft air speed/exit speeds and structure and failure with parachute, harness container systems, cutaway systems, ejection systems ..etc. . with all the history with Gov. contracts and FAA TSO and other Certs. with all fabrics and threads involved used with constructed of life saving equipment . .

So .. your question is ? , Why Hook is dropping the # 92 thread on the stitch every time . But when rigged up with #138 thread, the Hook picks up that thread for complete stitch ? .

don't know what/which zippers you using, coil, metal tooth ? .. they make Locking sliders . .

in the vid. , straight run stitch, You dropping every stitch on the bobbin ? . is your scarf to hook distance to far ? . It should be ' @ minimum 'at least picking up, even if it looks like crap on the backside. So you really off on something if not picking up on the straight stitch . That machine model really closely resembles mine . I wish you were close to me I would help tune it up .

very nice longarm there to say the least, and the bed to head work clearance looks killer also . I won't ask what the gross weight of that head is ?? , as I most likely will never have the privilege to pick one up to sit behind. ...LOL .

I have to re-time my straight/zigzag, Consew 146-RB about every 2 years . it is pain and always eats up several hours of time getting it right, because it something that i never stay current at doing . you have to do trial and error to get it finally 'fine tuned' and run perfect in Strait stitch, and then zigzag,.. and then it has to do it all in reverse stitch also . mine is, turn the zigzag all way to the largest width ( 10mm ) @ needles 'Right' and lowest point . then set the Gib 0.5mm Right of the needle 'L' , ( but ), i find that the 0.5mm stated has some + - adjustment because it not a perfect measurement . then turn needle to ' L ' lowest position, with Hook point 1mm above thread hole . You are also going to find out that all needle manufacture have different sizes of Scarf Lengths . I find that Organ gives the most liberal Scarf length for your Consew to move and 'Adjust timing' to the Needles R & L side for getting your zigzag to factory 'suggested' width . . Organ give the most distance for you Hook to move up/down the Scarf on L and R timing adjustment . .

even if it is only a bottom feed, every time I jump behind my old swiss. 217 I am reminded of what old school smooth balance and craftsmanship is for a machine . If you ever manage to score on one, they are a keeper. they pop-up I see them around here in my AO, used/clean for sale , but they seem to hold pretty steady asking price anywhere from 800-$ to 1-k .

( you looking bottom feed ? ) .. It probably has best chance of doing what you are asking . is old Swiss. made Bernina 217 . It the best bottom feed machine ever made, smooth, balanced and superior with it's feed dog design . It one old machine I will never get rid of . .

( Tugadude ) said a lot of the reality of selling handcraft . You have to stand-out with a unique niche items that nobody offers, or If your selling something that is already mass produced, you have to make something special about it, to make people want to take the step to your handcraft . I find ' Word Of Mouth ' is still strong . Positive experience using, and positive with people sharing your craft. The world is diluted and impersonal with internet access at touch of a finger, So word of mouth is gold. along with people physically showing other's what you made for them. Make and work a website and push it . Or buy 'vendor access ' on a high traffic website that hold a lot of people of similar interest that need what you sell . take it to street like sales booth 'Saturday market' . take it to a brick mortar retail sales . Instagram good for 'sharing' peoples experience with 'Pictures' of your product, and post pictures of them praising what you sold them using internet/globally . but unless you 'sell' then there is no way for people to 'share ' your name and craft. .

I was strongly considering to Post a Vid. of my super Fast, bottom feed .. But I don't know if I own enough Gold Bling to come-off as a creditable source of machine knowledge ... .

You can try ( DJ Associates ) i used to by some SS and Nickle hardware from them . https://catalog.dj-associates.com/viewitems/buckles-loops-slides/alligator-clip#

Can you cut your pads, from Lamb Fleece hide to make your own ? .

1600-$ price is not on the high side for class-7 set-up . they pop-up around here once in while .I never see them below 1500-$ on a table & motor, and go up to 2500-$ on decent table set-up . Pretty over kill for what you want to do . And what 'constabulary' say's, they take up a lot of room (big table) and they are Big, not the machine Head you can just pick-up and throw around all by yourself . But they are a powerhouse for punching thread cord , I have sewn Para-harness container systems with class-7 and there about the only machine out there that can do the required 8-point stitch on the thick stack of webbing and confluence wrap doing the main lift of the harness . .

Shyster .....LOL , my grand parents and father Swiss. I guess that explain why you recognize it in German dialect, I use that word my whole life, as my oldman use to use the word all the time for the shady people description . yes i agree it not the host site, it the seller that using the Site to misrepresent items they selling and take advantage of people just for a few dollar profit. I wish the seller was only color blind, but the seller is premeditated in the act, as reason he strips all the ID. mill tags off bottom of cones identifying make/color/size ..etc There not worth wasting energy and time on. I got no time to waste and just throw the Cones on the thread shelves and move-on . It to bad there 'shysters' as I would have bought another 50 cones off them of that factory run if they were legit thread dealer and could snag more of it . They think there making a few dollars and laugh about it, but in reality they are screwing themselves out of sales . The legit dealers always deal straight and pull ahead with there good customer service for the long run . . edit add: . I never thought much about the word till you mentioned it, so I looked it up just a minute ago for it's original origin . https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shyster -

Been so long since I bought off Ebay, ' I forget ' the Shyster's that roam around that place ....LOL . Was a real good reminder to stick with your usual distributors . & will make this a quick read . . Was browsing on-line for some more nylon #69 in a specific color/tone few weeks back. Was getting low on 1 color, and could use another 15-20 16oz rolls of it . I really like a good color of light-medium Tan/beaver in tone, as it a real good 'Chameleon' color with stitching certain items . I do have a few 'go-to' dealers I usually buy from ..but , I got a bright idea to just go on-line to do a quick random search anyway . So.., I see and clik-on this one add and it gets directed to Ebay seller . So I look at that picture of the Thread they are selling on the 16oz nylon in light-beaver, and I like the Dye tone of that color he selling in that Pic. So I play it safe . ( I not to stupid..LOL ) ..before blindly buying a large # cones . I log-in and I order just ( 1 ) Roll .. to take a look at, and string-up on a machine and check-out with throwing down a few stitches down . The Color/dye tone is great ! .. and it nice and smooth and tensions great .. I SOooooo Happy ...WuHhoo . So I look at there ebay-Score and it really good, and they been selling there a few years . I message the seller and ask ..." Hey . How many rolls do you have of this particular color I just bought, in 16oz. size 69 nylon Thread " ? They says ..." I only have 14 rolls left ". , and throws me a price that is fair ( 18-$/roll, and free ship ) for taking all remaining rolls in that color . So I pop over payment to seller, Co. ( ThreadXXXXXX ) out of NC. . a week later, I get this 20-Lb. box delivered . I open it up and there are ( 14 ), 16oz rolls of Tan/beaver #69 in there . .... BUT . here's my yearly life lesson in colorblind shyster's .. They are in Different ' color Tones' , different Manufactures, and all Rolls have there manufacture Mill-tag on the bottom removed . With one roll of the 14 actually size #92 that has a grease spot on it . ( in Pic. ) , I stacked the Rolls that did match each other . -- I had to take and save pic. of them to share my forgotten .. Ebay Love .. -

What is your 'cutting table' top ? for running blade on for pattern template cutting . I like to use 4'x8' sheets 1/8" polyethylene sheets to cut/make all my permanent pattern templates . stays ridged , easy to cut even tight radius pattern designs . Just throw down on the material on the cutting table with weights on top, and trace, then cut . I buy plastics like abs in 4x8 ft. sheets from commercial warehouse in this area , and I use a nice size stack of 4x8' every years with internal stiff plates in items I sew/sell . For you to save money over a place like retail chain-store sales . Tap plastics (they are expensive) you have to buy from larger supplier . You are going to need at a minimum Acrylic hardness to run a blade around the edge . Sheet metal would be good for big large volume cutting with running a blade . .