nylonRigging

I don't like the way that looks either . It all mounted on a flat backing plate, so you would think it would all be closer to being in-line to each other than that . Can you screw-in or adjust inward the tension disk assembly any more on that flat mount plate ? .

Your check spring on tension assembly is down to far, and you already are starting out with to much slop . No expert.. edit add : ...BUT . now that I look at your assembly , do you have a back-tab on the check spring assembly . that you need take thread over at the end of the wrap on it. 'before' you route threw check spring ? If you not over and on backside of the tab . then you will start out with way to much slop for your check spring to handle . My old consew single needle model has 'check spring' on tension assembly and not resemble yours . . ( this Pic. ) is old singer . BUT it same as your assembly for example . route behind the tab, before check spring . - .

i think ? , this model same spec's./as older GA5-1 model . i had a ga5 head a long time back and it sews good, and will throw down solid stitching to about # 277 thread . but I would not use for fashion quality items like belts, it will leave dog tracks on anything that is softer .. It is a good learning machine that is good for rougher side of rigging on leather and nylon .

Just on a note about those top and bottom , gear, grease pack covers . There not for just making extended lubrication maintenance . Those covers make for making a 'much quieter' operating sew machine . I was sewing on a cheaper Mitsubishi model that has no helical gear covers packed in grease . that thing is Obnoxiously LOUD .Those grease pack covers dampen out a lot of noise . .

Hinged corners heights and front corners . You can pull the rubber corner off . There probably a couple finish Nails or Staple, with the the head just buried below the surface . If it was routed a little to deep or the rubber bumper to low . pull it out and add a spacer under it to add little height 'till satisfied' , nail it back down and bury the the nail heads so the head not banging the head corners . .

Can see much with your pic's but ( industry standard ) almost all cutouts same , and you got Felt or Rubber corner tabs (bumpers) in the routed-out corners for riding flush height with table top . I see rubber corners up front there in your Pic. in the cut routing .

Yes, ..that be nice to have that drip pan, will be mess all over without . I don't see knee lift linkage there either for presser foot ? you can make some adjustments ( leveling ) to the way you Head height sits with table top cutout, by the felt pads bumpers in the corner cutouts up front . And there is a hole drilled on the table tops for a wood post back there somewhere to stick a post . .

Yes.. there suppose to be spring tension on the flip lever . If you talking about a 'backlash' spring inside bobbin cover ? some do and some don't come with . If buy an aftermarket bobbin cover, I see most of them come with a backlash spring . Yes .. my Consew ( manual oil ) , has a ( tin, grease-pack cover ) top and bottom over the gears . I have some machines 'not consew' that don't have grease cans, but my old RB model does have them . You can probably lookup the part# of the grease covers and get a couple . they keep the table drip-pan a lot cleaner with having them , but can do without the grease packs and just lube when you go threw and lube on your regular maintain cycle . I just pack the tin covers with that juki grease in a tube, or just Vasoline/petroleum jelly good also, as you not running a high speed sweatshop . .

those model bobbin cases are mass produced and plentiful . just grab one off amzon or ebay -10-$ . edit add : . . as long as your needle is ( Up ) and not sticking down into the bobbin assembly , your bobbin case should just pop in/out without a problem . takes quite a bit of force pulling on the lever to snap it off . Any idea why you had to pull so hard and the bobbin case would not slide out ? - https://youtu.be/SndtAjJ-pww?t=75 -

I have never used one without drilling and tapping somewhere . Drilling and thread tapping a machine bed is really easy, and even 12 year old Chinese girl working in sweatshop for a bowl of rice and pack of Marlboro's with a R-angle drill and t-handle Tap does it fast and right . I doubt you find any sold retail that are mass produced to match holes on the bed of that machine . You will end-up drilling and tapping for a binder where ever you choose, just for the fact of getting the binder hardware in proper positioning to feed correctly . Most I see, all the usual generic straight and 90 deg. binding attachment sold have mounting base on the R-side of the feed and throat anyway for mounting. For mounting Seam binder to that machine, the most preferred/desirable position is on R-side on that slide plate . and also you can simply just slide that binder off when not needed to change to another attachment, or remove binder by just sliding it off, and put another plain flat slide-plate on and keep bed clean to sew like usual . . Side-Plate mount that seam bind attachment . Front mounting any attachment items is best done with a front slide-plate. most of the old singers 112/211 211/212 and the current copies have the front slide-plates . ( Here are couple quick pic's ) old singer/new juki, as this about the usual average everyday working binder for seam bind . Also is example of the common ( front slide-plate ) that is used to mount different attachments . - -

For mounting binding attachment to that singer model, and other similar . I always mount them to the right-inside slide plate . .

- That foot of japan Consew 146RB model of walker , your model Singer 153w103 high-shank feet are more common and better selection . that Consew model is good at what it does, but limited to feet selection . .

That knobby Elastic and the 'spongy' Hook all stacked together, look to be ' less than ideal ' for a nice stable surface for moving in between the feet and feed dogs . Stretchy Elastic with Knobs and spongy Velcro Hook ....LOL . . If you have a weird stack of unstable surface items together like that . It makes even tougher to do nice job, when you have a raised edge that your trying to sew the Needle close to the edge with your Presser-foot hanging half-On and Half-Off the material . Sometimes when you have a pile like this, you can put a spacer under one side of the Presser-foot that is exact width of the raised surface that your Presser-foot is on top of . That helps keep the uniformity your Foot to the the surface so you use all your Feed Dogs,and that makes far nicer stitching . ( for example) .. stacked ( 2 ) pieces thick heavy 2" Elastic, with fold-over Velcro Hook on top . then sew close to edge . For a spacer, take a piece of webbing that is same thickness of the folded Hook to . in the Pic. I pointing the pencil at the spacer . I using a walk foot here in Pic. but it really helps with all types of feed and presser foot . - -

It is said in the #2 post of this thread - ..."I would also place a sheet or two of regular paper ( on the feed dog side ) of what you are sewing". and I understand the concept that it possible to push materials being sewn thew a overly large Needle plate hole, by the needle itself or by using high amount of presser foot pressure . but I don't think the OP is saying is a problem he having ? . He not even saying what size# needle he using, or size of thread, mil thickness of Elastic, or if he has a huge needle hole that elastic is flowing ? He mainly was asking in #1 post about 'possible' getting/ using a rolled-edge foot attachment, for making a small 2" long fold on Velcro easier to and fast to do other than by hand . The 'silicon' bumps being described in #3 post from OP, on the Elastic is a little odd addition to that materiel ? , and he saying it ..." causes to much bulk ". ( I assume ) for him to sew threw ? I never have sewn Elastic with silicon bumps laminated to it's surface, that could be a learning curve ? . Never used lubrication ?. Don't know if I can add anything special as machine ?. I don't do anything special , I just sew many rolls of Elastic every year to Hook and Loop and other fabric using different machines daily with different machine feed types, without ever having problems . using majority of time a 135x5 and x17 and mostly E69 Nylon, but have used bigger threads and needles . the only bitch I ever have is maybe couple times a day I will get a little needle thread fray, from the sharp abrasiveness of the Hook side of Velcro . It also goes without saying you need to keep a new sharp fresh needle everyday for a nice smooth plunge up and down threw Elastic . OP never say's how long he been trying to smooth out his problems sewing on the project at hand ? . but repetitious practice never hurts to make things easier. .

Don't think you could make it more easy or faster or need a foot attachment for sewing rolled edge for just 2" of folded edge . As your just folding-over edge of a 2" edge of Velcro hook, sewing to topside piece of 2" Elastic . It pretty fast/easy to just use your hands to do this . also from other posts . I don't understand using paper under next to feed dogs ?, because material never gets sucked-in . or, Elastic stopping the loop forming that the Hook catches ? . I sew heavy Elastic and Velcro everyday with several different machines . your last post: ..." I am using a round point. I think I probably just have the wrong machine for the job ". A flat-bed machine or flat table attachment would be easier for you that doing on a curved surface needle plate on cylinder arm . .

- A good question on what Castor wheels ? . And I am slowly finding out there is a big difference in quality . Little wheel and the bigger wheels 2"-3"-4" . . Single-bolt post mount, or Flat-plate 4-bolt mount . . The cheap Castors you buy have a shitty friction brake lever, and the better one's have good quality friction-lever brakes that are more positive 'smooth lock/unlock , with better smooth tighter Bearings also . I use ( like using ) the 'flat base' ( 4-bolt ) , and I mount to 2"x4" and 2"x6" wood , between the machine table and Castors . I just use small lag bolts to secure castors to bottom side of wood . - -

You pretty much answered your own question ..." shorter table for better storage ". I keep 3 machines off to the side on castor wheels away from the rest, and one machine is on 1/2 flat-top table . 1/2 tables are great for saving space, or for machines that not your everyday workhorses at set stations . Also..I seen people put a hinged drop-leaf on the side of the 1/2 tables also, just swing leaf up for more sew table . .

he does nice work . I have a UT441, drilled and tapped to the arm of a 3200 artisan/Toro . His flat bed attachments are the best out there for, mounting , ruggedness ,and just pure aesthetics . .

You tuned it to your specific needs . You now advanced feed dogs, and you slow-speed stroke the needle plunge thew thicker materials . now with your new tune-up . For my curiosity, what I would like to see .. Try sewing with lighter thread and using lightweight fabric with 'speed ' on a straight run stitching, like the machine was built for . .

hey, if you don't already know this . one more thing when you get around to dialing-in your tension release, with the lever/pushpin behind tension assembly . if you making a Pin or just cutting down a generic pin to length. 1st natural thing you going to do is make it all super tight ( but don't ) . You want to have a good amount of knee-lift play before it tops-out with push-pin engagement . and having a ( good amount ) , is having enough play to lift your presser-foot with your needle down and rotate your sewing materials under it, 'without releasing ' the thread tension on the partial foot lift . .

-edit add : ... Constabulary beat me to it, minute ahead of me on posting . . This is probably something easy simple fix that you just not seeing . you just over thinking it . Your saying primarily it's ( top Thread ) not wanting to just easy pull out . If the thread not pulling smoothly out of the needle thread when you release thread tension . Then the machine's not fully releasing tension fully . Can you visually see the tension assembly disks go limp when you fully push knee-lift all the way up ? When stopping to pull work out from under foot and needle . are you using the knee-lift for lifting the needle and tension release ? . Or just using manual lever ? Every sew machine I have, when I want to pull material away from under the needle . knee-lift is topped-out to fully push (push pin) that behind tension assembly, letting the tension assembly totally let loose . ( Your needle position ) . Needle has to be stopped on it's down-stroke after just moving past/threw from it's top center. For the thread to pull-out smoothly from Bobbin assembly, and when the tension is fully released on top thread . Material should all pull away freely from under foot and away from needle . .

- Closing flap/Lid systems on outdoor items like pouches and small packs . The only way to be better for the weather protection working into you than the 'side-ears' flap, on your fold-over closing flap you are showing in the Pic. . Would be to go for a 'box cover'-Lid , with back-hinge connect to your closing system, to totally cover on all 4-sides . It can be done in leather, if you do the pattern right in a ( one-piece ) and box your corner seams . the item in pic. 1-k den nylon inside and outside and heavy padded, but it gives you an idea of what talking about . ( side view ) . I dug this old sample out of one of the box's under the table . A box-cover Lid, they look like this with back hinge connect . - -

may Not be that plate ? . I just guessing .. but it just reminds of that flat plate-clip with 'screw slot' for sliding back and forth that is there on top by feed-bar link . Pretty Funny , if someone just throws extra parts in by your machine head, that are totally unrelated to your machine, just to screw with you .... LOL.. .

- Your Pic. ? question of the ' Plate '. Is that the Slide-plate, under the needle plate . the Plate slides slightly L-R and is held down by an adjustment screw . The plate used to limit horizontal Lash (back and forth slide) of the Feed Dog assembly . It looks like it . and with that little 'tab' (on left-side) that hooks over and hold the unwanted Lash . you loosen the plate screw , push plate to the 'Right' and tighten down screw to hold . .

You can find reference of Consew listing it online. CSM3000 is a Brushless, 750 watt 1hp . . the CSM 3000 is (without PS) , and the CSM30001 is ( with NPS) . The Consew , ( Brushless Motor User Manual ) , that came with it in the box is just simple single piece of paper with the usual .. speed setting / rotation change / needle position setting / return to factory setting . The control , is a 4 -Button control panel that makes It very easy to program the necessities . The 'return factory setting' is only for NPS, .. but i did still try that on 1st day I got it . It's rebranded . But the OP posted exact machine as the one I bought, and mine new out of box hammers-out 5 stitches on the power-up . So. I will Never buy another like this model and I will not recommend to others looking to buy . Like I was saying before I called Consew day after getting it, I explained the problem, told them what the new motor was doing, but all they suggested was I make a video and send to them . And that is ( All They wanted to hear from me ) . The factory help guy was offering nothing else but me making and download a video to him . So I just said ..." I will get right on that ". then just went back to work . After that experience with Consew CS ( my Opinion ) , If you have a problem with a New bought motor . Consew Customer Support phone # , pretty much worthless, they are Lazy with little to no skill, visualization of problem solving on the products they sell . .. But in all fairness, there customer service does like to watch video at work. Consew is dead to me . .