nylonRigging

For individual machine work lights I searched for longtime, those little cheep sold, flex-neck China LED light Really Suck. I used to buy them by the dozen. They have cheep thin, and short goose neck. The LED diodes are cheep, and get dimmer on the illumination by the month with use. I finally threw all of them in the Trash can. The only sew machine magnetic work lights that I plug into my machines now is the LED model sold by 'ArtisanSew' . Those are the Best available. The LED's are heavy magnet, 'Super Bright' Cob LED diode array, with 'Long Heavy-duty' quality flex goose-neck. - -

My flatbed/bottom feed, with presser-foot wheel actually does a nice job stitching also . I just keep it slow steady on the feed and it will lay down some nice stitches . Presser wheel with bottom feed is really still pretty smooth stitching and will do nice work. My Post Bed, I really have never used it for anything other than doing seams on the bottom of Bags that I do. but I really needed the Post bad if I was to seriously continue on with that particular pattern that I sell. .

- I think all the import ( 810 models ) Post Beds in your link share all the same drive, and that is just typical bottom feed dogs . the 810 import models 'have Reverse' like the OP is asking about, but No wheel Dog, and No presser-wheel drive . and that is why they are all sub-2-K in pricing . .edit add: The difference between sewing with, my flatbed with Presser Wheel, bottom feed dog . And my Post Bed with duel drive top and bottom drive roller. Is like night and day for Feeding . Nothing is smoother feed than laying down stitches with duel roller feed . Materials just glide . Turning radius stitch is also superior to just using a standard Presser-foot wheel, with typical bottom feed dog .

Edit Add: the US dealers doing machines under their own brand names . They seem to share this import build model Post Bed ( 4618 ) for sales . It about the most budget minded for a Roller-foot duel drive Post ... but No Reverse stitch . The price for the added Reverse model takes the price up over your 2500-$ limit . On a quick internet search, looks like .. Springfield leather, Artisan, Highlead, and most likely couple other US dealers carry the model . .

I have still got a couple machines without reverse in my stable, and old Singer 112, and a Roller Foot Post Bed 7-inch post. On the Post Bed, reverse would be nice, is not a 100% must to have, not having just adds couple extra moves for me doing a back stitch . But it has a Drive Feed, so i really not have anything to bitch about. IMHO, instead of concentrating on having a Post Bed with Reverse . As the priority, I would concentrate funds on getting one with Single or Dual Drive . 2nd priority is Reverse stitch you saying only ...( 2-k to 2500-$ ) for budget in getting a Roller Foot post bed . I would take a Post that has single or duel drive and No reverse any day . Over a Post Bed with roller-foot and just a Bottom-Feed that has Reverse . .

a Nice Find . -

Thank You . .

YES.... mine also has the motor cord off back of, that protrudes out past the table top dimension . table Rolls on the castor wheels and Power cord smacks against wall . It will eventually cause a malfunction if smacked enough. I was just thinking about that cord today when rolling it out and sewing on it . ( me ) , I am going to get a 'door stop' and mount to the back edge of the table top as a buffer/stop, before plug-in cord smacks against wall again . .

..." It's Not Rocket Science ....LOL unless your asked to design and rig for a parachute rocket recovery system . I have been asked to do that . Well obviously you know what your doing , So maybe ?? You want to use Nylon thread for strength and abrasion resistance on Rigging for the singular purpose of Pull/Lift . after you pull or lift, if dirty, wash or brush clean, store the webbing gear back in the Box . If you are Rigging for 'Tie-Down ' restraint, and it will be doing it's life 24-7 and continuously outdoors left out in the daytime Sun . Use Poly thread and webbing . For your wider, webbing heavy type rated . I would want more than a simple Box-X stitch than you mentioned doing . ( for me ) I would do no less than an 8-point stitch pattern, with the appropriate thread cord size. Also you also might consider incorporation a 'chafing strip' in the hardware wrap, as it makes for longer life for the friction point that is most important . . Also you said ..." At the 4-wheeling events they have people at them that cut and sew". If your there, that sounds like a good place for you to ask and get some advise. Ask them to show you stitch patterns they use for different jobs, different rated webbing's and thread/cord sizes used. Also watch them sew, and watch the ' proper order of completion ' used in stitching of patterns . .

Dude sorry, I was not trying to insult you at all with what I typed in the post . You asking about Poly. or Nylon webbing for you sewing a Tie-Strap ? . If you blindly sewing by example off one of your many tie-straps you own for your Quad hauling. Then you grabbing some 1-inch poly or nylon webbing off Ebay and sewing a friction buckle to one end with a Box-X stitch pattern, with whatever thread your using ? .. you will probably ??? be OK . Your Load will probably not be all over the highway . and Really ? . If all we are talking about here is you wanting just a tie-down strap for securing a Quad your hauling on a camping trip. it a lot cheaper for you to just go over to Walmart and buy a cheep Poly Chinese tie-strap, than sewing your own. ' Unless ' you are wanting to Rig something special for yourself ? You sewing a box-X is a good 'basic' starting point for you . box-X is just 1 basic stitch pattern, that is used for attaching hardware to any number of different type webbing's . This ---> Respectfully, I don't think you have any idea of just how in depth the subject goes . Sewing Rigging Lift/Load/weight/Stitch pattern, and proper material choice . And Dude.. there is a thousand years of formal technique and knowledge for proper Rigging Leather Lift/weight/Load, also with work Animal . There's a lot of people here with a lot of different sew knowledge that can help you . Especially if you wanting to prefab something you have never tried before. You not really saying what you are building ? for what weight load ?, or what size type/rated webbing you wanting to try/use ?, or what size of sewing machine you have access to ? .

Yes..What ( KGG say's ) . from all your questions asked . You don't have any knowledge of sewing, so you should not be doing Rigging for 'any serious' Lift and Load/weight Bearing . I NOT trying to be a A-hole.. but The subject is serious enough, that there is even a world standard and adopted proper techniques for Lift/Load/life saving device, and ' Sewing ' . I'm not even talking about big serious weight or life saving harnesses . Even a simple Tow-Strap under Load-stretch, when breaking can cause Very serious damage . .

Does the Amperage draw, have a play in the low end torque ? I would think it does. how many Amp's does this drive use ? . I know the Servo Drives don't use but small amount of Amp draw to run . it varies ( like about 3 to 6 amp ) depending on the make/models Spec's . .

Also.. pretty deceiving in the advertisement Vid. . I would have liked to see it punching thew some material that they actually could brag about with using that 750 watt servo drive . That stack of Poly Webbing is Not high density weave like they say . It actually really loose weave strap webbing, and super easy to punch . .

Your needle bar does very slightly pendulum/swing on it's Up/Down, but all 3 bars are in alignment ( Outer, inner and needle ) .. but like ( TrashTreasure ) saying, Only contact for feeding direction is center Presser Foot and Dog . With that moving centered between the 2-toes of your Outer Presser Foot, and it is only moving a up/down to hold material utilizing the Needle Plate to do this when the center foot is feeding with Dog's . OK .. Are you sure this is not just an optical illusion that the material is Not feeding straight as it's sewn ? You push materials into your Machines Feed . but Many times when sewing materials on machines . The materials being sewn will draw to one side ( curve ) with the added top/bottom thread, and tension of it being sewn . Only appearing to be moving off-center on the feed direction as you watch it leave your machines feed . .

last drive I got, This one I am pretty happy with . Japaneses brand, Nitron , NT-750 brushless servo , and with using a 'small' belt-pulley . very user friendly on the button controls also . Plenty of Punch power behind needle even crawling along slow . https://www.amazon.ca/NITRON-NT-750W-3500RPM-Sewing-Machine/dp/B07SRH41Y8 -

Cool background history on that machine . .

On a stitch when needle is down, and you stop sewing . If you just lift needle from the material and try to freely draw the upper/needles thread . It not going to go even with you letting off thread tension . . ( just my guess ? ) .. When you stopped with needle plunged threw your material . Move your needles cycle with the hand wheel, up and past top of stroke and on it's way n the down-stroke, then Stop . You should be able to pull the top thread freely when tension is released . .

I questioned them about their ( ZZ 217 ) machine , and it being close clone/copy of the original 217-08 made in Switzerland . They told they will sell a cam box to me, but they will not guarantee it fitting to the original Bernina 217-08 . .

Well, when you find one, grab an extra one for me to ...LOL OHhhh, that 217 double needle clamp, and also grab me a Cam Reader Box .....HAHAHAHA There pretty much unicorns , and people who have them along with their old 217's never sell them, even though they never set-up with and use use for double needle work . Same as Cam Reader box. I know one guy with 3 of them, but only way to get one off him will be to steal one after he's dead . .

Size Needle ? . Size Thread used ? the machine just started doing this ? . or you just get machine, and just starting trying to get tension balance down for machine ? It sounds like just simple basic tension problem . with the Bobbin tension to Loose, with top thread to Much Pull/tension pulling bobbin thread proud, when the knot should be hidden . Have you been moving bottom tension higher or lowering the top thread tension to find a good balance ? .

The identity is in your picture . it a Consew, model 80 . .

I understand exact what you saying . I got that exact stand on a machine setup . I windup straddling the left front castor wheel and working both peddles with R-Foot . The stand is quality, but user friendly/ergonomics is lacking for sure . .

The little flat plate bed, that looks to make a slick little work platform . Nice job. .

Yes, for feeding materials it helps make sure that the binding's inside-outer edge is always consistently full and flush with the materials you feeding into it . It just one of those things that helps . ( my opinion ) you want push-tab to be at least as long, so matching where the machines Needle plunging stroke is . .

- Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material ? that looks pretty slick and clean . .