nylonRigging

Thank You . .

YES.... mine also has the motor cord off back of, that protrudes out past the table top dimension . table Rolls on the castor wheels and Power cord smacks against wall . It will eventually cause a malfunction if smacked enough. I was just thinking about that cord today when rolling it out and sewing on it . ( me ) , I am going to get a 'door stop' and mount to the back edge of the table top as a buffer/stop, before plug-in cord smacks against wall again . .

..." It's Not Rocket Science ....LOL unless your asked to design and rig for a parachute rocket recovery system . I have been asked to do that . Well obviously you know what your doing , So maybe ?? You want to use Nylon thread for strength and abrasion resistance on Rigging for the singular purpose of Pull/Lift . after you pull or lift, if dirty, wash or brush clean, store the webbing gear back in the Box . If you are Rigging for 'Tie-Down ' restraint, and it will be doing it's life 24-7 and continuously outdoors left out in the daytime Sun . Use Poly thread and webbing . For your wider, webbing heavy type rated . I would want more than a simple Box-X stitch than you mentioned doing . ( for me ) I would do no less than an 8-point stitch pattern, with the appropriate thread cord size. Also you also might consider incorporation a 'chafing strip' in the hardware wrap, as it makes for longer life for the friction point that is most important . . Also you said ..." At the 4-wheeling events they have people at them that cut and sew". If your there, that sounds like a good place for you to ask and get some advise. Ask them to show you stitch patterns they use for different jobs, different rated webbing's and thread/cord sizes used. Also watch them sew, and watch the ' proper order of completion ' used in stitching of patterns . .

Dude sorry, I was not trying to insult you at all with what I typed in the post . You asking about Poly. or Nylon webbing for you sewing a Tie-Strap ? . If you blindly sewing by example off one of your many tie-straps you own for your Quad hauling. Then you grabbing some 1-inch poly or nylon webbing off Ebay and sewing a friction buckle to one end with a Box-X stitch pattern, with whatever thread your using ? .. you will probably ??? be OK . Your Load will probably not be all over the highway . and Really ? . If all we are talking about here is you wanting just a tie-down strap for securing a Quad your hauling on a camping trip. it a lot cheaper for you to just go over to Walmart and buy a cheep Poly Chinese tie-strap, than sewing your own. ' Unless ' you are wanting to Rig something special for yourself ? You sewing a box-X is a good 'basic' starting point for you . box-X is just 1 basic stitch pattern, that is used for attaching hardware to any number of different type webbing's . This ---> Respectfully, I don't think you have any idea of just how in depth the subject goes . Sewing Rigging Lift/Load/weight/Stitch pattern, and proper material choice . And Dude.. there is a thousand years of formal technique and knowledge for proper Rigging Leather Lift/weight/Load, also with work Animal . There's a lot of people here with a lot of different sew knowledge that can help you . Especially if you wanting to prefab something you have never tried before. You not really saying what you are building ? for what weight load ?, or what size type/rated webbing you wanting to try/use ?, or what size of sewing machine you have access to ? .

Yes..What ( KGG say's ) . from all your questions asked . You don't have any knowledge of sewing, so you should not be doing Rigging for 'any serious' Lift and Load/weight Bearing . I NOT trying to be a A-hole.. but The subject is serious enough, that there is even a world standard and adopted proper techniques for Lift/Load/life saving device, and ' Sewing ' . I'm not even talking about big serious weight or life saving harnesses . Even a simple Tow-Strap under Load-stretch, when breaking can cause Very serious damage . .

Does the Amperage draw, have a play in the low end torque ? I would think it does. how many Amp's does this drive use ? . I know the Servo Drives don't use but small amount of Amp draw to run . it varies ( like about 3 to 6 amp ) depending on the make/models Spec's . .

Also.. pretty deceiving in the advertisement Vid. . I would have liked to see it punching thew some material that they actually could brag about with using that 750 watt servo drive . That stack of Poly Webbing is Not high density weave like they say . It actually really loose weave strap webbing, and super easy to punch . .

Your needle bar does very slightly pendulum/swing on it's Up/Down, but all 3 bars are in alignment ( Outer, inner and needle ) .. but like ( TrashTreasure ) saying, Only contact for feeding direction is center Presser Foot and Dog . With that moving centered between the 2-toes of your Outer Presser Foot, and it is only moving a up/down to hold material utilizing the Needle Plate to do this when the center foot is feeding with Dog's . OK .. Are you sure this is not just an optical illusion that the material is Not feeding straight as it's sewn ? You push materials into your Machines Feed . but Many times when sewing materials on machines . The materials being sewn will draw to one side ( curve ) with the added top/bottom thread, and tension of it being sewn . Only appearing to be moving off-center on the feed direction as you watch it leave your machines feed . .

last drive I got, This one I am pretty happy with . Japaneses brand, Nitron , NT-750 brushless servo , and with using a 'small' belt-pulley . very user friendly on the button controls also . Plenty of Punch power behind needle even crawling along slow . https://www.amazon.ca/NITRON-NT-750W-3500RPM-Sewing-Machine/dp/B07SRH41Y8 -

Cool background history on that machine . .

On a stitch when needle is down, and you stop sewing . If you just lift needle from the material and try to freely draw the upper/needles thread . It not going to go even with you letting off thread tension . . ( just my guess ? ) .. When you stopped with needle plunged threw your material . Move your needles cycle with the hand wheel, up and past top of stroke and on it's way n the down-stroke, then Stop . You should be able to pull the top thread freely when tension is released . .

I questioned them about their ( ZZ 217 ) machine , and it being close clone/copy of the original 217-08 made in Switzerland . They told they will sell a cam box to me, but they will not guarantee it fitting to the original Bernina 217-08 . .

Well, when you find one, grab an extra one for me to ...LOL OHhhh, that 217 double needle clamp, and also grab me a Cam Reader Box .....HAHAHAHA There pretty much unicorns , and people who have them along with their old 217's never sell them, even though they never set-up with and use use for double needle work . Same as Cam Reader box. I know one guy with 3 of them, but only way to get one off him will be to steal one after he's dead . .

Size Needle ? . Size Thread used ? the machine just started doing this ? . or you just get machine, and just starting trying to get tension balance down for machine ? It sounds like just simple basic tension problem . with the Bobbin tension to Loose, with top thread to Much Pull/tension pulling bobbin thread proud, when the knot should be hidden . Have you been moving bottom tension higher or lowering the top thread tension to find a good balance ? .

The identity is in your picture . it a Consew, model 80 . .

I understand exact what you saying . I got that exact stand on a machine setup . I windup straddling the left front castor wheel and working both peddles with R-Foot . The stand is quality, but user friendly/ergonomics is lacking for sure . .

The little flat plate bed, that looks to make a slick little work platform . Nice job. .

Yes, for feeding materials it helps make sure that the binding's inside-outer edge is always consistently full and flush with the materials you feeding into it . It just one of those things that helps . ( my opinion ) you want push-tab to be at least as long, so matching where the machines Needle plunging stroke is . .

- Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material ? that looks pretty slick and clean . .

This particular 441 KH Binder that I set-up . I only have run about 250 yard of binding threw it so far, but overall I am pretty pleased with their hardware design . Setting up Binders is always a small pain in ass and eats up many hours of your time till you get it all smooth and GTG . Every guy out there that been sewing for years has their own techniques for Binder set-up and personal built techniques for Binding. Ok lets start here . how did you set-up your binder and swing arm ? , your binder set-up is going to make or break the finished outcome. also synchronized binder is not as easy as ( for example ) a Needle-feed . Unison Feed, you need to witness the feet movement with the swing-arm, but try to get the binder head slotted-in as close as you can . here a pic of what I usually do .. trim feet to get binder head in . I found their Foot in the set-up was really not what I prefer, so just grid/trimmed and Modified a stock Foot . & Also DON'T Ask ??? why . .. but this model KH binder set-up has NO push-bar at exit of the throat . it's pretty ridiculous that they did not, as you Very Much Need tracking of the binding material exiting the throat of held firm as you feed materials against it . ..but for the Good price of the whole set-up they offer .. I DID NOT Bitch to much about the it at all....LOL So I, Drill & Tap a small piece of angle then trimmed to work with the synchronized movement . I put a Red Arrow to show the piece of material push bar . - - and this, the 1st Item tried binding on the new Binder Set-Up . -

you were taling about Artisan . forgot.. was going to mention also have that Artisan 1541 , as well as their duel drive post, and the 3200 . The motor they use on that 1541 is a brushless servo, with a tiny around 30mm 35mm pulley. the motor is strong, machine runs great .. but ( personal opinion ) I think the Consew ' like a 206rb ' is smoother machine to run. definitely the Consew bobbin assembly/mechanics are more user friendly to. But the Juki copy/1541 is a good machine that has been made for a lot of years. lots of presser feet sets to choose from also. .

Hey.. was that in-stock @ Artisan ? , or did you order it up ? . if ordered for build and delivery , how long was the wait , ( months ) till was here in Frisco. US Port of entry/customs for there pick-up to the Artisan shop . Have bought a couple of machines from them in past, and they were always GTG for info and fast shipping to truck hub up I-5 here in Portland . Was thinking of ordering something specific from them , but was unsure with all the International shipping delays, what the ( Real Life Del. time ) was this year ? .....thanks .

You going to have to drill and Tap for best mounting results on the R-side slide plates. you will be guaranteed also to take it off, and re-drill and tap again, to fine-tune it's position . But if screw it up or not happy, is no biggie , because L and R-side slide plates are easy to get and cheep for the old singers . Start by trimming/notching the R-side of presser foot toe, to get a good starter point for the binders position . also dremel trim off flush, the underside of the bolt sticking threw . so plate will slide in and out , and also not to interfere with the bobbins movement . When you get Binder into working position, tight into presser foot Notch you cut . You will probably also cut/shorted the length of the material push Bar that tails off the exit of the binders Throat . and also might have to trim the bottom some to make sure it clean and not tagging the feed dogs on their up-lift movement . .

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder ? also what size thread you using on that canvas ? Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? . did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ? the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results . Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off . That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up . for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do . that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. Is binding threw .. 2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 . That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material . . working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius. .

from older thread here . - KeystoneMasterPagesScrews.pdf -