nylonRigging

- Did you prefab. that plastic routing for the binding material ? that looks pretty slick and clean . .

This particular 441 KH Binder that I set-up . I only have run about 250 yard of binding threw it so far, but overall I am pretty pleased with their hardware design . Setting up Binders is always a small pain in ass and eats up many hours of your time till you get it all smooth and GTG . Every guy out there that been sewing for years has their own techniques for Binder set-up and personal built techniques for Binding. Ok lets start here . how did you set-up your binder and swing arm ? , your binder set-up is going to make or break the finished outcome. also synchronized binder is not as easy as ( for example ) a Needle-feed . Unison Feed, you need to witness the feet movement with the swing-arm, but try to get the binder head slotted-in as close as you can . here a pic of what I usually do .. trim feet to get binder head in . I found their Foot in the set-up was really not what I prefer, so just grid/trimmed and Modified a stock Foot . & Also DON'T Ask ??? why . .. but this model KH binder set-up has NO push-bar at exit of the throat . it's pretty ridiculous that they did not, as you Very Much Need tracking of the binding material exiting the throat of held firm as you feed materials against it . ..but for the Good price of the whole set-up they offer .. I DID NOT Bitch to much about the it at all....LOL So I, Drill & Tap a small piece of angle then trimmed to work with the synchronized movement . I put a Red Arrow to show the piece of material push bar . - - and this, the 1st Item tried binding on the new Binder Set-Up . -

you were taling about Artisan . forgot.. was going to mention also have that Artisan 1541 , as well as their duel drive post, and the 3200 . The motor they use on that 1541 is a brushless servo, with a tiny around 30mm 35mm pulley. the motor is strong, machine runs great .. but ( personal opinion ) I think the Consew ' like a 206rb ' is smoother machine to run. definitely the Consew bobbin assembly/mechanics are more user friendly to. But the Juki copy/1541 is a good machine that has been made for a lot of years. lots of presser feet sets to choose from also. .

Hey.. was that in-stock @ Artisan ? , or did you order it up ? . if ordered for build and delivery , how long was the wait , ( months ) till was here in Frisco. US Port of entry/customs for there pick-up to the Artisan shop . Have bought a couple of machines from them in past, and they were always GTG for info and fast shipping to truck hub up I-5 here in Portland . Was thinking of ordering something specific from them , but was unsure with all the International shipping delays, what the ( Real Life Del. time ) was this year ? .....thanks .

You going to have to drill and Tap for best mounting results on the R-side slide plates. you will be guaranteed also to take it off, and re-drill and tap again, to fine-tune it's position . But if screw it up or not happy, is no biggie , because L and R-side slide plates are easy to get and cheep for the old singers . Start by trimming/notching the R-side of presser foot toe, to get a good starter point for the binders position . also dremel trim off flush, the underside of the bolt sticking threw . so plate will slide in and out , and also not to interfere with the bobbins movement . When you get Binder into working position, tight into presser foot Notch you cut . You will probably also cut/shorted the length of the material push Bar that tails off the exit of the binders Throat . and also might have to trim the bottom some to make sure it clean and not tagging the feed dogs on their up-lift movement . .

You say your doing/Binding Canvas fabric . What is the thickness of the material you are feeding into that 441 Binder ? also what size thread you using on that canvas ? Can you post a Pic, of the 'bunching' problem you get ? . did you buy the feet offered/supplied by KH on their 441 setup ? . or, did you cut/trim your own for the Binder ? the feet set-up is a fine point to complement the binder system and end result, also the angle that your feeding the material through the binders throat will change your results . Also for your learning technique with a synchronized binder and compound feed and feed/turn rhythm . slow the machine down on the radius and make a conscience effort to only feed-turn the material, on the needles down stroke, when the needles foot is down, with the outer feet off . That KH 441 machine and binder set-up is a brute for Binding, and you maybe able to get far better results with a smaller/lighter cylinder bed or flat-bed machine and binder set-up . for me sewing.. ( example Fabric ) .. On that 441 Binder set-up . I have a couple small outside corners on a closing flap of a bag that I regularly do . that is 'smallest ' I do on that machine and binder for ( thickness ) of material when Binding around radius lid and closing flap .. Is binding threw .. 2-sides of 1" type-ll nylon binding . 1 piece of webbing . 3 pieces of 1-k denier . and 3/8" foam . I have the machine dumb down with nylon #138 . That is NOT Even Close to workload that size of machine and binder can do and handle . It's nature is big tension, thick thread cord, big needle and thick material . . working with Good quality Binding tape material is a must , but I got to take a different view of binding material than RockAussie . Not that you can not turn a nice radius with gross grain , but I find that I prefer binding with a bias and herringbone weave over the gross grain when turning tighter radius. .

from older thread here . - KeystoneMasterPagesScrews.pdf -

the sound is normal . I kind of prefer the 1st stitch crawl slow on the 1st stroke of the stitching . you need to find a down-load of the manual anyway to see all the setting choices .. but ( imho ) , I would just leave that program set the way it is . It is always nice to see the needle slowly plunge exactly where you want it, before it takes off on the run . .

Is that an action that is just programed in ? . I have a servo drive that giving the 1st stitch a , slow lagging RPM stroke , is an option that you can choose . .

You can try the Skunk spray wash . Never hurts to try before tossing it, or cutting it up for scrap . 1 Quart of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide - 1/3 Cup of Baking Soda - 1 Teaspoon of Dishwashing Liquid . .

If your talking about the Pic. on the 3rd Post down from top, on this page , poster Feb 6 2017 , made by ( gregg keystone sewing ) . ? . it is binder and Bracket, made by Tennessee Attachment Co. . He listed Part# in the post also . I have had that exact set-up once from TA, and if you prefer to go in that style direction for a swing-arm setup . it is a Heavy Duty and top notch hardware, along with their Solder work with the head/throat of the binder . .

And In a Ideal World , Both bobbins on my double-needles would always end-up empty, exactly same every time. ...LOL .

Your Question in your Post, ..." I was wondering if anyone knew how much I could sew with 1 bobbin on 5 SPI with this machine ". 'On average' How many 20ft. runs can you get from one bobbin of thread ? . your question revolves around ' knowing how many yards is on your full Bobbin ' . Then What Uwe, is saying .. figure out how many inches length, you can sew with a yard of Bobbin thread . Then 'know' how many yards are on a Bobbin your filling . Your question is something I never ever thought about finding , so out of curiosity I put a Yard ( 36") of bobbin thread in a 111 to see ? . with t70/69 , and 5 spi . with having a 2 inch of loose thread tail , I sewed about ( 28.5 ) inches of stitch length , for 36" of bobbin thread . .

How many 20 Ft. runs you sew with a bobbin of thread, ? . with sewing stitch run, 5 spi , ??? What size of thread ? are you rolling onto a Bobbin ? , How full do you wind your Bobbins ? , How long length of thread tails, do you pull to cut at the end of each stitch run ? .

I am assuming that both flatbed machines have a ' Knee lift ' for press foot raise up/down ? The one machine that does not have a hand lever lift, for presser foot . Is it missing ? . Or was Head, never produced with on ? You could always find the machine model that Mercury cloned that particular model from, and find if it ever had a hand lift lever . Or find parts #'s if it did, and add those parts, to your Mercury head . - hey ?? also in your website profile you write ..." interested in sewing Human skin products ". are you Jame Gumb, aka/buffalo bill ? “ It puts the lotion in the basket, or it gets the hose again ” ....LOL .

I have/use that Post Artisan model . Only job I use it for, is for bottom of bag seams I running right now . You get 2 bobbin size choices also in that 4618 from Artisan, or others selling . If you go the M-bobbin , just remember the feed end of Post is a tad larger in size , because it has to accommodate the larger bobbin assembly . That Duel-feed Post is a real smooth feeder, It has a small amount of Needle-feed motion in it also . also/no Reverse, but (for me) that is no biggie. The Artisan 4618 is same as the Cowboy 8810 , that Wiz posted link on . that Postbed body/sew mechanics is a real popular cloned model sold by several . Don't know where your US Area zip-code Is ? I heard that Artisan sell quite a few of those Postbeds to Leather Class down in Cal. area. . If you living in Cali. I would keep looking in used Craiglist for people dumping them when they get bored with their newfound hobby , If looking for a used Buy on the Artisan 4618 , I never seen used Artisan Post-bed around here . Seen a used Pfaff Post, dual drive last week in the craiglist , but it went pretty quick . Used .. Pfaff is another way to go if looking for used, and they are solid with several Post model choices, but Pfaff is a little spendy-$ on the OEM parts if needing . --- If you looking to buy New, Just call Artisan and talk to 'Chester' and ask if they have one in-stock . About a month ago, I called them and asked about 'time-line' on their next order for machines . Was told they are making up an order for machines for the end of Dec. or 1st end of January . So right now would be good to get on their list if wanting one. .

You saying .."40 TPI " . . I just checked on a Mitzu. DB on the factory tapped holes on it's bed top . I threaded-in some ( 6-40 ) and they threaded in and bottomed out holding firm . But they did feel a little tiny sloppy when I was threading them in . Cast metal Heads are kind of soft easy to drill/tap . So I cant tell if it just a sloppy Tap work at factory ? . . Or it is some proprietary Thread size/pitch, that Mitsubishi used, that is real close to 6-40 ? .

Backside Pin notches probably just worn pretty bad on the backside of your Dial knob . Does not take that much pressure of the spring/pin to keep it from turning . I would just get ta new turn dial . People man handle and force the turning of the Stitch-length Dial . It wears out the backside of the Dal . Always push down little bit on the Reverse Lever, to release pressure on that Dial spring/pin , so it turns smooth easy when changing stitch length's . .

Are you talking about the small / simple, single wooden drawer ? - -

I think they/Artisan only put speed reduction pulley w/servo drive, on their heavier duty machines . The drive servo and pulley reduction on my heavy Artisan Cylinder Bed, is a torque brute . - No , on the Artisan model 2618-1B . the pic is Drive on one of there dual drive Post Beds machines . but relevant because ( IMHO ) this Post Bed not heavy duty Artisan industrial machine, and this Servo Drive is probably same Servo used with their current lighter weight machines . - Have no complaints yet , they have pretty good customer service also, easy to contact and talk over phone . Have a crapload of hours on their 441 clone , and only had their Post Bed about a year . Both machines are pretty solid workers . And that is my biggest interest in any machine I buy .. It Has to be Dependable runner, or it going back out the door . Tables are set-up right and tight, and are good plywood/Lam. tops , ( No cheep Press board tops ) . Have other machines, Singer, Consew, Mitsu, Juki ...etc. ( my ) main reasons for going with them/Artisan, is their competitively priced . W. Coast US established, with me up North in W. Oregon . They don't take your payment till the machine is shipped . Good CS . and Trucking/Shipping has been under 200-$ usd up North to Oregon for me. .

I have 2 Artisan machines . in-house set-up . 'one with' reducer , and one 'without' speed reducer . When buying the Artisan machine with the spec's. that read 'without reducer' . That was also the 1st question I had, before I bought this last machine from them . So I called them and they reassured me that it not needed . . All I can say is that I have Zero Complaints with their drive motors they brand and install that have No reducer . programmable, and It adjustable to go as slow as you choose . I was pleasantly surprised that Low torque power is there also . So here is 2 Pic's. of the Drive 'without reducer' . pulley off the drive is a smaller 50mm Diam. . I don't know the Servo manufacture that Artisan put there brand on but they seem to make good choice on there servo purchase . - - -

IMHO .. that not looking to bad at all . I don't see any rust or pitting . as long as it not froze with old varnished oil ? . Just looks like it was neglected on any cleaning . Me .. I would just blow it all out with Air Hose, and then manual oil All friction points , taking my time and rotating the hand wheel . Then string it up, and turn-ON the motor drive . Run it for hour or so sewing lightweight scraps, then get a good feel for what you got going on mechanically . I would just lay a small towel in the bottom of the oil drip-pan , Then after you over-oil the whole machine, you can clean the drip-pan out latter. After blowing it all out with Air . If it tight rolling and sticking with rotating hand wheel . I would pump some hot air to it with Hair Dryer on Hot . or a heat gun set on 'low heat' . That will loosen all the old oil and lint and get all rolling smooth . .

craiglist is going to be a hit and miss for finding good clean cylinder bed in reasonable driving distance . If you wanting brand name, and will hold a better resale value over time . the Juki 1341 that ( kgg ) mentioned is ...Great . . You are living in NorCal. . if you do end-up buying new clone import . 'for Me' .. I would just contact Artisan Sew in Bay area Cal. , call and ask 'what is in stock' . You can get into walk compound feed, medium duty cylinder setup for 1800-$ to 2300 . along with consew/juki/singer... I run a couple of Artisan setups on cylinder and post machines , they run solid, and setup with a quality servo drive . Have good customer service . Shipping for me from bay area up to Portland trucking hub for me to pick it up, was about 190-$ last time I brought one up here . So you shipping closer in-state would probably far less-$ . .

Those, 3-prong/spur T-bolts . If you buying more than a few, . It is pretty cheep price and fast shipping from ' MonsterBolts ' . they have their website. and also sell of off ebay or Amazon . Last bags of, 1/4"x20 - 7/16" , were 16-$ shipped, for bags of 100 . .

The kwan Hing raised feed dog/needle plate fit pretty smooth easy, was really nothing that was off on fit and finish . Their feed dog change-out was just like any other feed dog on that model machine . - -