chuck123wapati

tallow, greases and oils all have specific melting points and is one thing that defines them as different. I think tallow melt point is about 104 or so. the addition of wax will raise the melting point a bit. I am in process of making soap with some of my Elk tallow lol. So far I have 36 bars of Lemon , Lavender and peppermint scented soaps with another 12 bars to be molded today. That will be enough bar soap for at least a year. I may make up a bit of conditioner just for shits and giggles. I still have several pounds to use up. I wonder now how hard it will be to render out some fish oils for experimental purposes lol.

awesome little bag you did great!!!! My only suggestion for your next one is maybe a liner.

I cant really see/understand adding a solvent/degreaser to an oil based product. The only thing i can see it would do is break down the oils and waxes to possibly help move them through the leather but they don't really need the help if mixed properly and at the proper ratios and applied correctly. Does it evaporate out at some point or stay in? I guess I'm saying, the two are opposite in the intent of keeping good oils and greases in the leather, why would you add a degreaser to grease?

In what book anywhere have you ever read that ash, lye and urine are used or ever were used as a conditioner? Is it in the one you wouldn't post because I prolly wouldn't read it anyway? Still waiting I wont let you down. BTW they are still relevant and still used in processing leather lol as well as many products people use daily. Just made some soap used 100% pure lye just like the big companies do. Haha and thank you for making my day as well. it also proves this "People tend to disagree with personal opinion, vague descriptions, misconception or misrepresentation. " no matter the venue! Here is the statement you wrote. "When it comes to leather work, it's no different, especially when some old guy in 1892 wrote down in a book that he used ingredient X ,because that's all they had at the time, so now it's considered gospel that cannot be questioned or a more suitable modern ingredient used in its place. One can slather just about anything on leather, but the old saying "just because you can, doesn't mean you should" should be kept in mind, even in this day and age." Clarify exactly how it logically says this. " there are indeed some recipes from way back when that are still good in this day and age. " Fact is it doesn't say that at all, doesn't even hint at that. I'll repost my response, it needs no clarification. " I'll demonstrate a misconception you made, here is a short list of old guys from 1892 who wrote books. https://www.thefamouspeople.com/19th-century-scientists.php They had everything in 1892 you have now to make leather conditioner except maybe a few synthetic oils of which I see none mentioned in this thread. Obviously people of that era also had the intellect and scientific knowledge to make it. " My point is and has been you want to make folks think that leather conditioning is some new found science, because its probably a marketing ploy for you. All conditioners are a mixture of fats oils and waxs and have been for centuries. As well all the "alternative oils" you reference were also used back then and as easily accessible as they are today. Olive oil, coconut butter and bee poop, or whatever buzz word concoction, conditioner isn't new my friend, the folks that buy it from you may think so but most folks here know better. I wish you well with that most of the newer leather folks provide a small tin of super secret, eco friendly, sustainable, special stuff to rub on their leather work. It gives younger folks that warm fuzzy feeling and makes them part of the process. she probably would want want the leather sandals either.

Excellent workmanship, they work well for rabbits also, keeps the fleas off ya. it will darken a bit but its better than getting ruined by water. Any good boot water proofing will work, except that spray sillycone crap. remember the straps are veg tan and if they get wet and left to dry they will get hard and crack unless conditioned well so get some nfo and a good coating on them.

I agree with your first statement. People tend to disagree with personal opinion, vague descriptions, misconception or misrepresentation. Facts are undeniable, the up side to disagreement is science depends on it. Its called peer review. Dubbin has been used for centuries. you call it conditioner. it was made from tallow , beeswax, and fish or animal oil. It was produced as a commercial product as early as the 18th century. I'll demonstrate a misconception you made, here is a short list of old guys from 1892 who wrote books. https://www.thefamouspeople.com/19th-century-scientists.php They had everything in 1892 you have now to make leather conditioner except maybe a few synthetic oils of which I see none mentioned in this thread. Obviously people of that era also had the intellect and scientific knowledge to make it.

that is a nice looking piece!! great looking tooling and a great project, i need a couple for my vehicles lol.

Depends on its use also and where it used and is also another reason why no one can agree. A working saddle in Arizona isn't conditioned the same as a pair of hunting boots in Canada. we often comment without regard to other variables but only on what we know works for what we make where we make it. Here in Wyoming a piece of leather could lay out on the prairie for 100 years, I have found such old shoe parts while metal detecting. While a piece of leather in Louisiana may deteriorate in a few months due to the different climate, humidity, molds and such.

those shoes look pretty darn good did you put a heel on also?

heck yea!!!! I'm working driving mocs today lol wish me luck.

very nice antique effect for sure. That is a great tip.

great work indeed I made one similar a few years ago and they work great. I can carry either my 44 mag , my 1911 or my g3 on the same harness and surprisingly they all are very comfortable and secure.

paint the veg tan white or whatever color you want after tooling with acrylics then seal it.

I've done bible cover, holster and purse size pieces with no problem and penetration is a matter of how many coats you put on i usually soak it pretty good side to side then top to bottom then diagonally, with light applications it comes out nice and even and wet enough to tool. An oz. of dye is an oz of dye no matter how you put it on the leather it will go the same distance.

i double checked the link those are hand carving gouges that go down to 1mm.

you can get woodcarving gouges for hand work as small as you need, not all gouges are for lathes. i use a small vee and a small round for skiving as well as cutting corners and curves.

mine is about the same temp in the green house is in the low 40s, no visible changes, no smells.

try find a wood carving gouge that is the correct size. https://www.woodcraft.com/categories/carving-gouges

beware of following the masses, sometimes the m is missing.

here is a start

Your opinion means nothing here friend go somewhere else like face book to spoils peoples day.

i have elk tallow that is over ten years old and still not rancid. leather shoes wo socks/ sandals will smell like the feet that wear them in just a few weeks more or less. They take up human oil s from the body as well

How exactly does quality and faux even go together in a sentence? You can buy embossed leather that simulates the hide from other critters if that's what you mean. Tandy sells it.

they are fantastic as well. beautiful rendition of a civil war era bowie.

excellent job of it!