chuck123wapati

That is excellent!!! Stohlmans , The Art of Embossing Leather, is a good reference if you can find it. They use leather under the embossing to raise it. I, 've never tried i but i did get the ebook off of the Tandy site. I don't know if they still have it listed.

it also works on wood screws, tap and die sets, your awls and needles. Just about anything that needs some help against friction, weird, isn't it?

you may have to bend it first too, or your stitches will look loose no matter what thread you use. Once bent it's a shorter distance between each hole than when straight. so does the copper still work under leather? I hate washing my wrists three times a day lol.

Nice !!!!

cooool i,m droolin , I love makin tools!!!!

yea i got a couple in a drawer somewhere lol. I can sew a saddle stitch much faster with an awl and two needles.

you know a person can do either stitch by hand, so my question is how many of you use the lockstitch when sewing by hand? I've never even had the urge to try.

great job!! A bit heavy leather, IMO, but hey, they look fantastic and should work well. I would suggest,using these clips made specifically for the job if you do any more of them. I have had the ones you used snag the thumbpiece and open just on my suspenders. https://www.ebay.com/itm/171369888626?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&loc_physical_ms=101688&customid=32c1eb99c2f11fb7b82f83561eeeacea I always liked the 3-point sling for tactical carry, and I use the M1907 rifle sling on all my long-range guns, so they all fit the same.

excellent work for a very worthy reason!! great job on the hair texture.

You have a sewing machine, make cool cloth bags with your logo on them, they are eco-friendly, "sustainable", and blah blah blah LOL.

And artificial intelligence is learning from these people, don't our grandkids have a great future to look forward to? She actually replied to one person that she had been doing this for years. I love watching you tube it s a big part of my tv time. but darn you can get led into some bad info real easy if you dont have a good understanding of the subject. I've seen it here, people sign on the forum, lurk a while,ask a few questions, read a few threads and all of sudden they are putting out videos like they have been making bespoke watchamacallits for years lol. Saddles, some parts are repairable, some just arent and some saddles arent worth it to repair at all. Safety gear I won't touch at all. If it's worn out but so much of a cherished thing you can't get rid of it, then hang it in your den and polish it every day or something, but buy a new one to take its place. Bottom line the way i see it is fixing old stuff can get people hurt, so you have to think for them sometimes and say things they don't want to hear, because they won't accept the reality for whatever reason. A few bucks in your pocket for a quick repair isn't worth the risk to your customer or your livelihood, so there are some things you shouldn't even attempt, and your knowledge in the craft should lead you in that direction if need be.

Good job my friend, you got it!!! I've never had luck carrying tapered cartridges in a buttstock type holder so I quit even trying open type holders of any kind. You will have to let me know how it works on the trail.

I don't know if a dye shaker is a need or a want, lol. But you have built a really cool setup, and you can learn to paint in your off time.

looks like a round punch was used and a cut under it to relieve the wrinkling isssue with wet forming these small pockets. Use some scrap leather and quit with the almost-as-good stuff to work this out. just do one pocket first and pin you leather down along the sides, then measure about where you want your punched hole at the base punch it out cut a slit to the end and then wet it and form around the end and pin it down until dry. there will be over lap on the slitt you cut when dry cut straight down through both overlapped tag ends to get that straight clean cut at the bottom. use thin leather! The hole and slot thing is a really good way to solve that wet froming problem, very cool indeed. If you can't figure it out, then later today I might do one and show the pics i have a trap door on the wall and could use a good cartridge belt for it.

here is what works for me. I take a regular 5-gallon food-grade plastic bucket with a tight lid. Drill a hole to fit 1/4" tubing tight, then get a pint mason jar with a lid, drill a hole in that lid to fit the other end of the tubing into push it to the bottom of the jar fill the half full of water and you have your air lock and airtight fermenting barrel. you do your fermenting in this until it's complete. Then when its done press your mash and put the wine into the carboy with your clarifier. You're basically done now except for time. When it's clear, re-bottle it into your smaller vessels and enjoy it. you want your barrel and carboy as full as possible so there is little to no air, A hydrometer is what you needed for your water issue. You create your chosen alcohol content by the amount of sugar in your mash, if you want less alcohol more water type thing. You can add sugar to make stronger wine also. You do this at the start of your mash. And yes fix it!!!!

that small slot in the side port is for air flow the wood goes in above it, and the burn happens at the junction of the two. Then the gases/smoke burns also inside the flue part. Very efficient and hot.

piping always. There is a reason you use it in light leather goods, actually more than one lol.

Have you seen a rocket stove? It's the great-grandson of you BBQ lol? its on my bucket list of things to build.

I like it!! The expanded metal may be a trifle newer than medieval lol. heck yeah clean it up and season with oil.

Just my two cents, but here's how I see it. I've shot a lot of bp and been around bp folks. They are particular about their sport, they do it for a reason. You say this fellow is a collector and real bp buff. Well then i would scratch a big no about fixing this with plastic of any kind. I can tell you now he probably wouldnt like it. His double barrel is probably worth about 3 grand or so and he hunts and uses it specifically because it is a reminder of the past, he can buy cheap crap on the net, but he chooses not to for a reason. My advice is still thicker veg tan around the nozzle. I think it will actually be easier than plastic in the long run and will retain its shape if you seal it well. Taking the easy way out may shoot you in the foot on this one. Collectors are picky folk. Bp folk and their accouterments are in an era that didn't include plastic lol. Either way small shot and black powder will build up between the funnel and the leather if you don't glue it or get a really good tight fit and good luck on your project!!!

Beautiful work indeed!!!!!

That's some nice workmanship. Yeah, I like the color contrast too!!!

From what little I understand, I have braided exactly one hat band. it's a chapter on braiding two different braids or knots together in different ways. i think you need a pretty good idea of how to braid each separate knot before you can understand the diagrams or how they would fit together. If I wanted to finger it out, I would start with the easiest one, maybe joining two turks heads as i did a turks head for my hat band.

very cool !!!!!! and a very cool ride my friend, back in the day only the rich kids rode Schwinns and no one sold them around here, so there were only a couple in the whole town lol.

There is a guy here who has two of the wagoneers, both in perfect shape. man i would love to get my hands on one of them. I built this little 68 cj5 years ago, before i adopted my grandkids. I had to get a bigger truck lol. It had the Buick Odd Fire V6, and i added lockers in the front and rear end so all four wheels had traction. 4" lift and 35" monster mudder tires./ This little sucker was bad ass!!!! I even painted it lol.