chuck123wapati

lol you know what the difference is with the wind in your county and mine.............................................about ten minutes.

now this is a good idea!!!

once you get it figured out how to put it together then you will need to take it apart and polish the arms where they make contact as well as the cams and bobbin shaft. The hole in the arm where the thread goes through should be polished. The foot needs work as well they usually are so roughly made they tear up the leather. There are several ways that people have fixed the feet but what i did was to clean up the teeth with a jewelers file so they didn't have the ragged edges now they grab fine and move the leather but don't scratch or rip it up.

here ya go i can pull the thing apart if you need but you can just see the lower bearing in the first pic it rides about halfway out of the groove. The lower bearing runs the bobbin back and forth so it should slide easily back and forth while the bearing arm runs the needle arm up and down. You should be able to slide the bobbin shaft and bearing back or forward to get the bearing into the inner smaller raceway. If it wont move something is wrong. As Wyowally said these things need to be tinkered with a bit before they run smoothly and there are tons of youtubes on that subject.

you need an antler button but that rocks my friend, very cool

thanks neighbor, county 6 here.

thank you!

thank you.

thanks man! just coming out of hibernation lol weathers warming up and I'm in the garage playing with fire lol.

this one is a bit larger 1" blade chisel ground 3/8" d2 drill rod with an apple wood handle finished with Linseed oil. it is a plain knife meant for work but I love the handle shape and fit, I may end up changing the handle on the other one to this style. This thing goes through 10 oz like butter lol

thank you.

i can shoot some pictures if you need them.

there are two grooves in the hand wheel the lower bearing goes in the smaller inner groove the arm bearing goes in the larger outer groove. the two bolts adjust the timing. you may have to adjust that but not right now, It appears you have a c clamp holding the main shaft you need to move that to fit the wheel and bolt the machine to a table. There are tons of you tubes on adjusting and using this thing just look for Chinese shoe patcher.

lol I have one, my place is the garage or the basement.

Go on any site that sells holsters from a company like Hunters, click on a holster and you will see that they have several guns that fit the same holster, go from there. A 1911 pattern will fit some large frame autos, like a p92, to a point some looser some, tighter. Same with the smaller autos shown in the picture like Gc3 or a Glock 43 the fit difference in pattern of these two is about 1/4" inch so they could use the same pattern. Retainage for these types of holsters is a strap.

you got the stitching down great job.

after you soak it it has to dry back out to the right stage of dampness, the leather will look dry or almost dry but still feel cool to the touch and a fingernail will make a good dark and lasting impression when tested, beware it wont go away so don't fingernail test it where you don't want it to be seen. When I first started I would take a scrap piece and wet it along with my project and as it dried I stamped it every so often until it hit the correct stage of dampness then I started on the project piece. Don't be afraid of hitting the stamp a bit harder either. One good whack should set your impression deep and dark. Another thing i just realized is your deer stamp is larger than your background stamp so you need to hit it even harder to get the impression. I have that stamp and it isn't a deep stamp or an easy one to get a good impression from IMO.

LOl I sure cant do "it" in the garage its to full. I am blessed to have what I have for sure my friend. Also a basement for my leather, guns and bows wine making and a dozen other hobbies.

Thanks I'm working on some of those as well lol. I'm making me some goodies first. I have a nice old nicholson file I'm on the grinding stage in.

it is service berry a native fruit tree. It is very dense and hard wood great for these types of handles. I used dark oak stain and as you can its so dense it barely took any color.

thanks guys!

yours is looking really good. I have a one car garage also and i have all my wood working tools, bandsaw, table saw router table small lathe etc plus all my knife making tools forge welder anvil. two belt sanders and all my automotive tools to boot. I have to shuffle them around as i do projects lol then if i need to work on my car they all have to get moved to the side so I can squeeze in my car lol. Today its set up for forging lol.

your impressions aren't deep enough to hold antiquing, either to dry or to wet, not hard enough with the mallet or to thin of leather or any combination of those. Casing is very important to get a good impression.

yea its pretty much up to you to make your pattern, knives come in so many shapes and sizes that generic patterns are pretty plain. I do an image search then when I find something I like I adapt it to my knife. If you do have an idea folks here can help you along with the pattern making.

Finally fired up the forge for the year this is one of a few new knives I'm making. This one is a double edged lil guy 1/2" blade intended for the work you cant get a bigger knife into like filigree and also light leathers. Its d2 drill rod with a service berry handle and 45 acp ferrule. i have another one ready to install the handle with a 1" blade, chisel ground.