chuck123wapati

140 bucks for something you can make with a file in about ten minutes. Actually looks like a dull chisel was used.

glue the two pieces together then take it to the belt sander and make a nice clean straight edge then mark and sew.

I'm wondering where you got this info. But it is a form of grease so if it gets hot it will undoubtedly soak through and stain your leather.

in more ways than one lol.. not much yet the wind here takes it away as fast as it falls.

dont bake it. Just let it dry

It's a great thing because if you break the awl you dont have to throw away the haft. Sharpening takes time and costs money, meaning the awl blades would cost alot more. Heres the instructions unscrew the tip stuff in the blade and tighten it back up. There is a learning curve for this craft much more than just leather you have to learn how to use and sharpen most of your tools at some point. I've found the easiest way to sharpen an awl is to set it in a small vise and sharpen it by gluing 1000 grit or so sandpaper to a popsicle stick. set each face of the blade flat, polish it with a sandpaper stick, rotate the awl blade, and do the next face until sharp keeping the faces straight and true. oh and just sharpen the tip you dont want the whole edge sharp.

yeah i'm a youngun at 65 lol I never quit using them thats all.

now thats the ticket!!!

i am going to make one like yours for my wood lathe work it will be handy.

excellent job indeed!!

lol they used to teach this stuff in grade school. a compass, ruler, protractor and square were basic tools back in the day.

yw

for those without welders here are a couple ways to find center without extra tools. Sorry for the light lines. 1. with just a square find the diameter then divide that number and mark both points on the edge of the circle turn the square over and align it with the marks and the measurments on the square. 2. use a compass , find the diameter divide in half then put thepointy end on the edge and draw an arc, move it anywhere basicly and draw another or a few. 3. The easiest way, buy a compass and blunt the point a bit so it doesnt poke a hole in the leather and draw on the back of you piece. In my case i simply installed the point backwards.

1 mm is pretty close especially for leather work. pretty cool!!

Sorry for the late reply, all is well here for a change that is if your not traveling, the roads are closed this morning due to wrecks on the ice. i took a nice spike elk this year and with the garden we are set in for the winter. Now maybe i can pound some leather lol.Take care and feed your dad well lol. We had a huge elk roast last night with our garden carrots and fresh idaho potatoes. Take care over there also!!!!

very nice !!! I like walnut.

interestingly stupid lol, so plate your atv, here you cant drive on the major forest roads without plates.

awesome

lol I wish my Rem 700 took one of those.

You can have ammo in the magazine can't you? I'm not too fond of that pocket problem as well, here is my fix for that.

actually, i misspoke i lengthened it so i didn't have to use a screw in my stock. Sorry I'm getting old lol.

Here is mine i used the technique on the original M1 scope risers, a slot is cut into the leather plus the string is wrapped, mine doesn't add rise because it is open-sighted but adds padding for a good weld. I had one stock-mounted bullet loop thing and lost to many shells with it so I tossed it out, they don't work well for rimless cartridges if your hunting requires more than sitting in a blind or tree stand.

Could have, check the unused part closely for contamination of any particles that may be causing the problem. iron reacts to the tannins in the leather when wet and causes staining.

Iron filings will cause that problem did you sand or sharpen anything near it?

you wet mold this type around the cylinder and trigger guard only, the gun should slip in easily/ fall into place but still fit snugly so the blueing isn't worn off by jostling around.