chuck123wapati

your impressions aren't deep enough to hold antiquing, either to dry or to wet, not hard enough with the mallet or to thin of leather or any combination of those. Casing is very important to get a good impression.

yea its pretty much up to you to make your pattern, knives come in so many shapes and sizes that generic patterns are pretty plain. I do an image search then when I find something I like I adapt it to my knife. If you do have an idea folks here can help you along with the pattern making.

Finally fired up the forge for the year this is one of a few new knives I'm making. This one is a double edged lil guy 1/2" blade intended for the work you cant get a bigger knife into like filigree and also light leathers. Its d2 drill rod with a service berry handle and 45 acp ferrule. i have another one ready to install the handle with a 1" blade, chisel ground.

Storage is dependent on your local in the world. I just keep mine in the boxes they were shipped in but I live in a very low humidity part of the world so dampness, mold or humidity isn't a worry. You want your leather to stay dry and out of the sun, rather than wet or damp or it will mold.

aint she a dandy lol I've sewn a lot of stuff with it. My only problem with it is the jaws are almost to wide across the top to use them as a guide for my awl. I think making the bent wood jaws would solve that problem.

that's is a great tip to share thanks!!

That is an interesting way indeed to make that clamp piece, what wood are you using? I would love to try steaming and bending wood maybe this summer some time i will take a crack at a new stitching pony. Mine is very similar to yours in shape and function but just made from scrap wood.

First off have you tried the search function? I have seen quite a few saps on the forum. If I were to make one I would use heavier leather, hand sew or lace and not turn it inside out. I've never made a sap but most I have seen are flatter so you can put them in a pocket or hide them easier. Some even have spring steel sewn inside to give it some snap. You may even consider lacing instead of sewing. I haven't seen a pattern for a four piece sap you will probably have to think that one up yourself. This is a ball bag for lead balls I made 6/7 oz. leather to show you how much you could wet mold a simple two piece sap. I used bbs and just mashed them in with a dowel rod to get the leather wet formed. it is a three inch circle and formed to about 1 1//2" thick at the center, plenty for a sap.

yea dress it as any outdoor leather product would be or if the weather is really bade try one of these.https://www.bootbarn.com/boot-barn-hat-protector/2000213392.html?msclkid=fc136922fdd310ed4b160f0bf352467a&utm_campaign=Shopping&utm_content=hats&utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_term=4583176819036973

yea that's over the top!!!

i agree those are nice indeed.

you will just have to start with a courser stone. Not the coarsest for that small Knick but not the finest either, take your time. I sharpen a lot during my off time setting on my butt when time doesn't mean much.

i wanna see some of this. I just spent 30 bucks in leather and six hours of life to make a pair of three dollar mocs lol.

we all suffer that, when ya don't know ya gotta ask. That's why we are all here. Reading leather and creating work arounds is a skill born through experience more than anything else.

No piece of leather is without flaws. It comes from a critter that lives in the outdoors. Consequently there's a lot of waste sometimes if your project needs that type of perfection. Obviously more so in economy grade leathers. Buying leather first hand is my suggestion for decreasing those types of problems no matter the grade.

you like old books buy this one it will answer most of the questions you ask. https://www.amazon.com/Leathercraft-Tools-Al-Stohlman/dp/1892214903 yw good luck!

try a glass slicker. It may help some.

xactly that's why the awl rules in this case over trying to figure punch holes its a no brainer with an awl. As you can see its just a matter of marking the main body holes, a guideline in the bottom as dikman said then pushing the awl through towards the dead center of the bottom.

yes that would work well i think.

only conical lOl.

i watched the video and you can sew that up in minutes with an awl with nothing but a stitch marker around the outside piece. Even the video maker is making this way to hard. Make a form so you don't have to hold the thing and sew. I just had a thought for an accurate coozie form fill a can with plaster of paris or maybe even that expanding crack filler foam crap and insert a couple of pins, dowels or some such that you can clamp in your stitching pony. simply slide the sewn outer piece over it then you can easily glue the bottom in and start sewing. Step away from your calculator very slowly and have a beer instead. remember people made this stuff before rulers were even invented.

I fought this problem to the death on moccasin toes last month. you cant just glue up and sew those with an awl at least I couldn't figure out how to. yup you can mark the holes on the outside piece then draw the same diagram to find the inner hole spacing measure it and you have the answer pretty close. On 2 mil leather it would be a very small difference on a miter joint type. That's why I didn't draw the thing to actual proportions, probably should have.

You have it made then, mine work twice as hard as my gson lol, you could get some things done with five.

Its just another blade man sharpen it up.

lol must have been one snag to much for the guy.