My two cent's. I was an MP, and we were supposed to set the standard, and when we were up to full staff (almost never) the best uniform and boots would get the shift off. I like free days off.
For the GI silicone treated speedlace jeep soled boots, to get a good shine on them, the complete exterior grain had to be sanded off. Then a base of Kiwi black, and keep going until it was filled in. Usually about three or four nights process, as the Kiwi had to harden, and you had to use a lot.
For the jungle boots and Corcoran jump boots, I liked to start with a 400 or 600 wet sand to give the surface some tooth, to hold the polish (I had some auto body experience) otherwise it would flake off. They seemed to have a lacquer finish, or something like that.
Once you had a good base, of Kiwi black, using the lightly applied techniques described above (I used an old 100% cotton tee shirt, four layers thick), and a mister spray bottle (hair spray pump bottle works best). After I got the black good and shiny, I would do around two cotes of Kiwi clear. It would give it depth, and it seemed to be much shinier than the black, and it wouldn't "swirl" up as much. It probably had something to do with not having any pigment in it. I did experiment with Kiwi blue, and cordovan as a top cote, they worked good, but the clear is always easy to find. I tried the Kiwi parade gloss, didn't get any real "WOW" results. Lincolns seemed grittier, and was more expensive.
As for the cheats I liked the Chattanooga Fats' "Seal-A-Shine". The shoe shine shop in the PX sold it. It took out all the swirls, didn't turn milky if it got wet, held scuffs down, I never could find any negatives about it.
Before I used the Seal-A-Shine, as a rule my boots looked like mirrors, and I would spend 10-15 minutes to re-shine them when they got scuffed.