MBOGO

Off the top of my head, I think Keith worked with Lawrence(?), and his contribution was was a long tabbed strap with a snap to secure the sidearm.

That was made before I came into the knowldege that the strap is supposed to be secured with a snap, It is sewn inside. The toe plug is a flat tear drop shaped bottom, with the narrow end of the tear drop pointing at the sewn seam. Hang in there, your work is getting better.

Those are great.

What's next, Crazy 88's chimp, to follow the Resoveour Chimps, or is that Pulp Chimps? Great work.

Looks like a solid rig from here.

Here's a Threepersons style holster I made a few years ago. I used a toeplug, and wanted more flowing lines. If I had to do it again there would be no lining.

Great stuff, all around. Always loved the F-S knives. Huntback, you said your friends dad brought it back. From where?

You now are the proud owner of a future museum piece. Congratulations.

Beautiful

Al Stohlman referenced using a solution of it to prep projects before dying in one of his coloring leather books. That is where I learned of it. Larry, What is that leather gonna hold? Judging the shape, a revolver, what kind?

Looks great from here Larry. Keep working it, It would look even better with that beautiful Kimber in it. Look forward to the MK IV version.

As for that mold and other black marks that appear as a result of metal and wet leather contact such as tacks used to hold a piece down while drying, can be removed by the use of oxcilic acid. Not sure if I spelled it right. Not even sure where you are going to get it, maybe a pharmacy, or chemical warehouse. I have had a jar of it so long, I don't even remember where I got it. It dosen't take much, just use the directions on the jar, or read up on it in the Stohlman Saddle Making Encyclopedias. It does work, and I have used it for years. Bondo Bob I got mine at a good hardware store (not a box home improvement store) that has a good selection of wood finishes. It's used to bleach and clean wood when refinishing, I don't rembember the name brand off hand, but a knowledgable hardware person helped me out when I asked for it.

Looking good!

Quite a few of those have almost followed me home... Including a nice .455 new service. Don't want to be hijacking INDY's thunder, this just really got some nuerons firing tho. I highly reccomend reading up on Roy Chapman Andrews, if'in your a fan of Dr. Jone's http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Roy_Chapman_Andrews.

GUN GEEK POWERS ACTIVATE ; http://www.indygear.com/igguns.html I LOVE those old fixed sight N frames... In the thirtys you could get surplus 1917s for a song. Or Indy might've brought one back from the great war.

Larry, For your second holster you are doing great. You will learn with every project, just part of the learning curve. By the way, those grip panels really set it off, nice rig.

Where are the pockets for the snake bite kit and .45 ACP half moon clips? Great idea and execution, well done.

Well done, through and through

Ray, I will stumble through answering this, you seem to have a good understanding of the concept, and I don't want to make you think it is more complicated than it is. The tank is filled by the bellows (no idea if that is the proper term) to a predetermined pressure, for the sake of conversation lets say 120 psi (pounds per square inch). When that pressure drops below a predetermined level, lets say 90 psi, a switch kicks the motor, which refills the tank, and then the motor stops running. Some of the smaller airbush specific compressors I have seen were a direct bellow that had to run constantly, and some from my understanding would give the pulsating the madmax refered to. Normally you run an airbrush between 15-40 psi depending on what you are shooting, and the effects you want, in my humble experience. Some compressors have a regulator at the hose out point. My setup due to neccity when starting (which I am still using), was a hose to my regulator, which directly fed my airbrush hoses. In hindsight, I like this because the regulator could be adjusted or fine tuned on the fly, and I wasn't bound to the compressor. Some moisture traps have a regulator built in, but these pretty much have to be mounted. The Iwata Studio Power Jet Pro Professional Compressor, has all these bells and whistles contained. The airbrush compressors of this type seem to have a refrigerator type motor, and are silent, portable, and self contained, without having to mount thing's to walls (moisture traps, ect). If you have the space and need (car tires, HVLP sprayer for large projects, air tools, high production level) a larger tank is very useful, and the compressor won't be running constantly. Depending on the space you have available, your resources(cash flow), and needs (portability, amount of output, living in an apartment with thin walls and not wanting to anger the neibhors at 3AM) should determine your choice. You can easily set up a compressor for less than $200 US, http://www.sears.com/shc/s/s_10153_12605_Tools_Air+Compressors+%26+Air+Tools_View+All?sbv=Craftsman&sbf=Brand . It is what you prefer. The compressor that I'm using for airbrushing was given to me, and more than works. I grew up around an auto body guy, and got my first airbush in 7th grade, plugged into my fathers compressor to paint model airplanes (mostly WWII and Vietnam era camoflage). Since then I have done some airbushing on about anything that could be painted, died, or inked. I am not the best nor claim to be, these are just my experiences, though, I have made some money on it, and done some work I was more than happy with. There is a learning curve to airbrushing, there is good info to be had to help you out. Practice, and have fun. Marc

One of the reasons for the double loops is so that a belt loop on the pants can be placed in the gap, therby not allowing the holster to shimmy front to back. Find out what works for you.

I wore a belt for years before I outgrew it, the finishing I recall was dye, painted with liquitex, neetsfoot oil, then satin sheen. It wore great. The follow on I used Bag Cote in leu of the satin sheen, most of the paint has wore off.

I want to follow this...

I've never worked with the Iwata, but know it is a first rate graphic arts setup rated for working with inks and such. I've used various brands and types and made mistakes since the early '80's, and for ease of use I found the Aztek a great compromise, no needles to bend (the needle is in a self contained tip), ease of use, easy maintence, reasonable cost. Many moons ago I made a Franken-fitting on the end of my air regulator to run two airbrushes at once, with an air cut-off valve if I'm only using one during that shooting session. As for compressors, I've always used one with a tank, wether is had a 25 gallon or a five gallon tank, with an inline moisture trap and regulator. I know some of the airbrush specific compressors are using silent moters, and are less of a nuisance when they run. Right now I've got an old Craftsman with a five gallon tank, and if Working semi-stedy it kicks over maybe every hour.

Beauty.

very nice