Hardrada

https://theleatherguy.org/blogs/leather-101/leather-101-thickness-and-temper

Why not use leather that's already pre-dyed and avoid all trouble? Chevre should be just the thing for a Bible.

Use copper/brass rivets. The leather will tear before those come apart. I too would also stitch the loop and reinforce with a rivet on each end. Place the flat end of the rivet inside so that it doesn't scratch the contents—better yet, line the pouch.

Agreed. Also, good tools last longer. Even in this era of cut corners–even from quality manufacturers–, good tools tend to be more durable. Durability is a key feature now that we're heading into scarcity, times when even dirt cheap sinojunk might not be available anymore.

I use Metal Glo for my polishing.

That's either a fluke or total merde de cheval. Mine came sharpened and fully ready to use. They're still sharp. They have to come sharpened because the thing with the KS Blade chisels is that the user can't fix them if there's issue with them: one has to send them back to them in order to get them serviced. This is a hassle that the founder of Sinabroks perceived and ergo he designed his chisels to have removable teeth, because most of the issues you're likely to have with a chisel is a broken tooth, and it's indeed a pain not to be able to change them yourself. Don't feel bad about your purchase. I wasn't trying to knock Sinabroks off. From what I've seen they're also top quality items, and made to last if not abused. I do strongly recommend to protect the tips as much as possible, because they're finer than your run of the mill diamond chisel, and even though they're good quality, they can dull and they can break.

I have chisels from KS Blade, the company the Sinabroks guy used to work at before starting his own (and copying the design, basically). They're excellent. Pricey, yes; but worth every nickel.

This: https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/hammer-mauls-and-mats/products/rocky-mountain-thick-punch-pad-many-sizes Before getting me a pair of those, I used to use a piece of ~10 oz old leather taken out from an old briefcase someone gave me. Haven't neeed to sharpen let alone regrind any chisels so far.

The leather scratch awl is much finer. I wouldn't use anything else for leather. Heck, I even use my leather awl for wood.

Wouldn't happen if stitched by hand. Smirking comments aside, that's a fantastic bag. Looks right there up with "designer" bags. Professional. Well done!

Scratch awl.

I think Tandy is full of BS. Methinks they just want to move their Eco-Flo subpar brand over anything else and are willing to self-sabotage some of the merchandise they carry in order to do so: case in point: Fiebing's. As long as it's ground-transported, any carrier can deliver Fiebing's "combustible" Pro dyes. Hare-brained shenanigans from Tandy. I'd NOT stitch before dyeing: you'll dye the thread! Thus, I'd dye, then wet mould, then stitch. Stitching would always be my last step—well, technically, the last step would be the edge finishing, but you get my drift.

Lonsdale Leather sells spirits-based dye. You don't have to stick with Fiebing's. https://lonsdaleleather.com/collections/supplies/products/l-l-roma-colour-premium-leather-dye

You could dip dye and wet mould at the same time. And I'd be using spirits-based dye.

Lonsdale's own: https://lonsdaleleather.com/collections/supplies/products/l-l-contact-cement?variant=36343930257574 I don't mind the smell. Only once have I gotten a headache from it.

Not in this lifetime. I cringe when I see such things.

Try Zelikovitz: https://www.zelistore.com/ Tandy is devoted to pushing their own house brand. Fiebing's is turning into an afterthought for them.

So far, pre-dyed veg tan is all I've used. Less risk of dye rub-off that way. Can you imagine a dyed-in-shop black belt smearing a customer's white suit? Yes, it can be wet molded without issue. I've done that too. For finishing, all I use is some Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax. No issues to date.

Fold the chrome tan edge over the lining and stitch in place. You don't mention the leathers' weights but you could additionally skive the edge of the chrome tan to make it easier to stitch and to reduce bulk on the bottom side (not that the dog would probably notice or care, but ah well).

Eco-Flo is Tandy's house brand. Yes, Fiebing's is alright for veg-tan. I even use it in my English bridle belts and it's fine as long as you burnish it well and finish it up with Tokonole.

Try a different browser?

It's right there with FirePoint!

Chrome tan's edges CAN be dyed and burnished if the leather is firm-tempered, such as Chromexcel. You may need to use something other than Tan Kote, though, such as Uniters. You'll also get better results with an electric filleteuse, but I've done it with wood burnisher and Tokonole.

Very nice, but I'd feel blasphemous sitting on it.