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Hardrada

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Everything posted by Hardrada

  1. There are plenty available!!! Here, this is the bag in question: Here's how they did the strap: Not only did they cut a single strap and folded it and stitched it, but they actually put it together from two three shorter straps. Waste not, I guess. Contrary to my remembrances above, the glue didn't really go all the way to the centre or the edges—guess they only glued the area round the fold: At some point a wayward cut happened, maybe an accident? Still, waste not, just stitch it in place and carry on:
  2. Rocky Mountain Leather Supply and Buckleguy sell Calati gauges. Not cheap, though. I got one of the wooden gauges sold by Tandy: it's good for a rough idea, but if you're skiving or paring leathers to precise thicknesses—for things like watchbands, fine wallets, et al—you definitely need a gauge or calipers.
  3. That's how some manufactories do it. I've a bag that uses that method: fold at 1/4 of the distance from each edge, unfold, apply glue throughout the flesh side, fold again so that edges meet in the middle, end by stitching 1/8" (~3.5 mm) from the new edges.
  4. There are clamps that are non-marring. Irwin Quick-Grip come to mind. The only time I use bulldog clamps is when I'm wet-moulding and the stitch line will go right along and over the marks left by the clamps. Some time ago someone from Japan joined the forum and his YT channel had a tutorial on how to make leather covered bulldog clamp jaws, to prevent this problem, but I didn't bookmark the video, alas. ___________ Hah! What you know... I found it.
  5. This is mine: http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/hand-burnishers.html Posting as reference, since the OP mentioned he wants to turn his own. They make burnishers for machines too: http://www.proedgeburnishers.com/motor-burnishers.html
  6. Oh, no, no, no. @ ~5oz, that's super thick for this project, and so stiff the wallet wouldn't fold. That's the stuff I use for patterns.
  7. Yeah, cocobolo. I tried using brass with a burnishing attachment for my creasing machine, but it didn't really work that well with Edge Kote.
  8. I use digital caliphers.
  9. Those.... unfinished... edges.... AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  10. Goat skin. https://www.rmleathersupply.com/collections/vegetable-tanned/products/alran-chevre-chagrin-sully-large-and-x-large-sized-goat-leather-2-5oz-1-1-1-2mm-32-colors-made-in-france
  11. No pattern used or needed: Just wet moulding for the Bic sleeves.
  12. Last wallet I made I used 1 oz chevre glued back to back with the top edge on the front side cut larger so I could fold it over the back piece and stitch.
  13. I'd think the double caps would be used in applications where the rivet is gonna be in contact with, or rubbing against finished leather: the smooth cap would not mark or mar the leather, whereas the bases of other rivets might leave ugly marks.
  14. From what I gathered the viral thing killed his business. He started having issues sourcing acrylic since the companies making face shields were given preferential treatment by the supply chain. I ended up making my own pattern using bag stiffener. The results weren't half bad:
  15. Acknowledged. But, will those salts permeate through the wood to the steel?
  16. Hah! Apparently you can buy them here: https://www.herooutdoors.com/hungarian-leather-ak47-sling/ Only $34!
  17. LOL. I reckon the cost of shipping would be more than the item's.
  18. Thanks for the input, mates. Now the main challenge is being finding the snap hook. The ones Tandy sells are humongous.
  19. Yeah. A collector asked if I could make a replica of the old SKS/AK Russian sling.
  20. Say, I need to make adjustable slings, your slider and belt loop kind of strap. I've some 9 oz English bridle, but I'm wondering if it's too thick and firm for this purpose. I've also some 7 oz latigo that feels less rigid, but I wonder if it's good to support a load of ~8-10 lbs. I could line it with suede, but I'd rather not stitch 100 inches of strap. I know that for slings one would want leather that won't stretch, but I'm thinking I also want it quite pliable. What's the best temper then? Is firm too rigid? On a firmness scale of 1 to 10, down to which number is acceptable? TIA for any helpful input.
  21. Tyvek seems to be a popular material for pockets lately, so much so that Tandy is now selling it. For the last wallet I made I used Velodon from RM Leather Supply. To construct the card pockets I used the technique/arrangement used by this craftsman (@5:23 mark –he's using fabric instead of Velodon, but other than that...):
  22. What's the purpose of the brown plates? Are they structural or just cosmetic accents?
  23. The first thing you need to decide is WHAT you're gonna make. The product is what determines the choice of leather.
  24. What tsunkasapa said, only adding that veg tan is the way to go if you're doing decorative moulding; if you're not, it doesn't really matter, you can even use chrome tan if you want, which has the advantage of being more resistant to the elements.
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