Spyros

The box is where I keep my most used items, KS blades, maul, box cutter etc The other containers up top are mainly for sandpaper and canvas To the right is a rotary tool for polishing, electric creasing tool, brushes for glue, bulldog clips, press Boba Fett in the corner needs to get airbrushed at some point the tambour box is just for random other stuff And the drawers on the left are mostly hardware. Amazing how quickly hardware builds up Aaaand that's it pretty much I haven't actually done any leatherworking in here yet, I just finished it today. I hope it works well

These are the basic essentials. I'm a big fan of magnets The main surface is 12mm HDPE screwed on the bench. I haven't tried HDPE before, see how it goes. The floor is all epoxy so if anything spills it's easy to clean up I made the chair myself, it turns into a ladder if I want to reach something up top The main drawer is just for off cuts, cloths, towels etc To the left is my Flintstones tablet holder. I made it as a joke because the tablet is over 10 years old, but it's so practical that I've never stopped using it

4-5 years ago I built this shed in the back yard Until today the shed has been 100% for woodworking. But that had to change because my leather working kit has grown and it needs a proper home, I had to share the space. As you enter the right hand side is still woodworking, but it is now only a much reduced kit. Because leather working obviously doesn't mix well with saw dust, I can still use the space for drilling/gluing/assembly etc, but anything to do with cutting or sanding will have to be done outside on sawhorses. I'm fine with that, all my tools are portable anyway. The other side is now all about leatherworking

awesome All you need now is to find the right size padded dividers, B&H has countless of them https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/16065-REG/Domke_720_230_FA_230_Insert.html

Anyone from Australia ordered from Buckleguy? I've been sticking with other suppliers simply because I know how long it takes to receive something, with Buckleguy I have no idea (and would rather not find out the hard way)

I was thinking of making a jacket sometime in the future, my plan is to tear apart an old donor jacket that fits me nice and use the pieces as templates. Do you have something like that you could use?

If it works, it works!

It can happen even to the best suppliers, as long as it doesn't happen too often and they help out when it does, it's fine. If it was too much trouble to replace I'd make a toolbox out of it

Not my style either, but you have to tip your hat at the craftmanship!

Welcome aboard Whereabouts in AU? You might have more advice to give than receive considering what you've already made

I make bags, I don't do that. I'll keep it in mind if I start making... whatever it is that requires over a centimetre of leather.

10 prong KS Blades solved that for me. Not cheaply though...

Hey buddy can you set the bar a little lower pls I'm kinda scared to even start my wallet lol

Thanks Fred. I'm just gonna leave it as is, by the time it starts to get dry smoking will probably be illegal anyway LOL

oh crap I just tan koted the back side

It's this stuff https://www.austanners.com.au/product-page/large-glazed-grunge-kangaroo-in-tan-1-1-2mm I made a tobacco pouch with it and now I'm wondering if my usual routine (carnauba creme then diluted resolene) makes any sense. I'm not sure exactly what they use in the glazing process but it I'm leaning towards leaving it as is? What do you thing?

That's ok I'd rather not know

Ι've been buying Doc Martens for 32 years It was not a rite of passage but it was a bit of a statement in Greece where i grew up. Just finished the look for all kids who wanted to be a little different. Competition is just better at the mo.

Ι've come to the realisation that if I want something made in Australia I have to make it myself. Which is perfectly fine by me.

What do you guys have against chisels?

Solovair is head & shoulders better than Dr Martins, try them. I think they're made in England too (from what google tells me)

Average.

The broken part on drills is usually the chuck or the planetary gears for me, or the battery goes and it costs almost the same to buy a new skin+battery set. I go to great lengths to find light drills and usually go 12 volts for that reason. I would never touch an all metal drill but each to their own I guess, swollen wrists have been very convincing for me as to the merits of plastic. I love plastic on the handle, casing and battery, I cringe when I see plastic gears though. To be honest with you unless we're talking about some cast iron machine, or the type of hand tools whose design has been the same forever, I don't really want my tools to last a lifetime. I had drills 30 years ago, they were crap. Technology moves on and I want the new features every now and then.

your unpainted edges probably look better than my painted ones LOL

perfect.