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DoogMeister

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, hunting, photography, radio-controlled aircraft building and flying, motorcycles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gun leather, belts, holsters, rifle slings
  • Interested in learning about
    Stitching, Sheridan carving
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

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  1. Ditto what Dikman said. Ammo looks like .45ACP to me. Definitely not .45 Colt.
  2. On the few I've used, a ball peen hammer and anvil have sufficed. I doubt that would be effective for any kind of volume.
  3. very nice work! I like the use of stamps on both sides of the border. Is the holster lined? A picture of the back would be appreciated.
  4. I use popsicle sticks and tongue depressors under plastic clamps from Harbor Freight. Spreads out the pressure from the clamps so there are no marks.
  5. Nice work.
  6. looks nice. Show a picture of the final product after you replace the scales.
  7. I use Feibing's Pro dyes and an airbrush. I spray 91% isopropyl alcohol (obtain at the drug store - don't use the more common 70%) thru the airbrush, then remove the spray tip and needle, and soak the tip and airbrush (stand them up in a small glass bottle or jar) in alcohol for a couple of hours. The alcohol can generally be re-used if only slightly stained. The key is to get all the dye pigments out. I've never had to use anything but soaking to get the airbrush clean. With water-based finished, such as resolene, I use hot water instead. Never a problem and have been using the same airbrush for several years.
  8. I wait until thoroughly dry - most often at least overnight. however, this would be a good time to do some testing on some scraps and post your findings.
  9. I prefer an officer's model 1911 in an OWB pancake-style holster. A double-stack gun creates a larger profile to conceal. Different body shapes and sizes make a difference as well. No matter what your preferred method of carry, you will likely need to adapt your wardrobe. Concealed means concealed, not showing the bottom of the holster or an obvious bulge.
  10. Thanks for the tip. I'll check them out.
  11. Made this as a project for myself. The Factory case is severely worn, and no longer provides adequate protection. I got he pattern in a Tandy holster pack, and had to adapt the shape for the 1911 (shorter and wider). First time using a gusset and a zipper, so that along with a pattern error cased some extra work. The pattern shows both ends of the gusset as a radius the same width as the gusset. However, the 'notch' in the body at the grip end is quite narrow, maybe 1/2". I did temp stitch the gusset in place (after installing the zipper) and found this out, so made a pattern that reflected the true shape and a 2nd gusset. Needed some practice doing zippers anyway. LOL Had some 1/2" hi-density foam that I used for padding, and some suede laying around from another project for the liner. Used some leather protector spray on the suede, so hopefully that will help. Drew a center line on the body, and another guide line for the side with the basket weave and stamped to that line. The visual that the basket weave is not straight puzzles me. It has its share of imperfections, but IMO is a pretty decent case.
  12. I have a light with a magnifying lens that mounts to my bench. It has a swivel arm so it can be moved around. Wouldn't be without it. Most on the market these days have an LED light. check out Hobby Lobby stores or Harbor freight. the big box stores - such as Lowe's, Home Depot, and Menards will have something similar as well.
  13. A successful event last night. The knife brought $120.00 for the local 4H. I was happy about that. Several other items did quite well. A hand made corn hole game decorated with a stars and stripes theme bought over $200.
  14. Thank you. Blade is 3", and the knife is 7 1/2" total. Fits my hand well.
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