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DoogMeister

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado
  • Interests
    Camping, fishing, hunting, photography, radio-controlled aircraft building and flying, motorcycles

LW Info

  • Leatherwork Specialty
    Gun leather, belts, holsters, rifle slings
  • Interested in learning about
    Stitching, Sheridan carving
  • How did you find leatherworker.net?
    internet search

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  1. Impact drivers are great, but there is considerable risk of bending in the machine if you hit it hard enough to dislodge the screw. A good soaking with penetrating oil followed by heat with a propane torch combined with an appropriate sized slot and good-fitting screwdriver should work. You may end up removing everything but the threads of the stuck screw with your Dremel tool. Go slowly, and have good light and magnification. Then pick out the threads with a scribe or similar pointed instrument. Run a thread tap through the hole to clean it out, and replace the screw. much easier said than done.
  2. The Economy and Craftsman grade sides I've bought from the Tandy store look better. Sure, they sometimes have a place you need to work around, or a brand - but that is to be expected with those grades. What you have may have been grade A at one time, but after having been left out exposed to light and what appears to be folded, rolled backwards, and whatever else, it isn't anymore. I agree with what has been said - if they don't make it right for you, name them so we can avoid your pain.
  3. Looks good. You may want to burnish your belt slots which will eliminate some of that fuzz. Much better than most first projects.
  4. Ditto what Dikman said. Ammo looks like .45ACP to me. Definitely not .45 Colt.
  5. On the few I've used, a ball peen hammer and anvil have sufficed. I doubt that would be effective for any kind of volume.
  6. very nice work! I like the use of stamps on both sides of the border. Is the holster lined? A picture of the back would be appreciated.
  7. I use popsicle sticks and tongue depressors under plastic clamps from Harbor Freight. Spreads out the pressure from the clamps so there are no marks.
  8. Nice work.
  9. looks nice. Show a picture of the final product after you replace the scales.
  10. I use Feibing's Pro dyes and an airbrush. I spray 91% isopropyl alcohol (obtain at the drug store - don't use the more common 70%) thru the airbrush, then remove the spray tip and needle, and soak the tip and airbrush (stand them up in a small glass bottle or jar) in alcohol for a couple of hours. The alcohol can generally be re-used if only slightly stained. The key is to get all the dye pigments out. I've never had to use anything but soaking to get the airbrush clean. With water-based finished, such as resolene, I use hot water instead. Never a problem and have been using the same airbrush for several years.
  11. I wait until thoroughly dry - most often at least overnight. however, this would be a good time to do some testing on some scraps and post your findings.
  12. I prefer an officer's model 1911 in an OWB pancake-style holster. A double-stack gun creates a larger profile to conceal. Different body shapes and sizes make a difference as well. No matter what your preferred method of carry, you will likely need to adapt your wardrobe. Concealed means concealed, not showing the bottom of the holster or an obvious bulge.
  13. Thanks for the tip. I'll check them out.
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