DoogMeister

Have made several for my own rifles. All have cartridge loops. I mainly use a decorative border and some stamps like deer heads, etc. Did one with basket weave on a large magnum, that one tends to be a bit tough on the cheek. With cartridge loops, decorative carving would be on the inside - the shooter can see it and appreciate it that way. Just a thought.

Looks great! Glad the French Cleats worked for you. Great job with the detail of your project. Thank you for all the work you spent sharing it with us.

Ever try a French cleat for hanging something heavy? Love the sword idea.

Both colors can be orangey. Diluting 50-50with 91% Isopropyl alcohol can help. Also using antiquing compound (Feibing's paste) can tone down the color. Key is to practice on scrap. I find Feibing's Pro Golden Brown to have a pleasant warm color.

Try neutral shoe polish.

Looking nice! From one old Marine to another, who also makes knives, shoots, fishes, etc. I am watching this project. My wife was asking the other day what I'm going to do with all my knives. I give some away, did one as a donation for a 4-H silent auction fundraiser last year, and mostly just look at the rest. Your project may have given me something to do . . .

I make a few knives as well, also buying the blades. Gives me something to make a sheath for. My scales are from wood - ambrosia maple, curly maple, walnut, sassafrass, cherry, etc. From one Marine to another, bravo zulu.

very nice!

Wow.

stunning piece of work. Your step by step pics are greatly appreciated.

very nice work.

very nice! Do you have a pic of the back of the sheath?

I use a piece of old T-shirt to apply and buff the antique (Feibing's paste). I work it into carving with an old toothbrush. Much less getting too much of the antiquing compound into the cuts that way, then buff off. Feibing's Pro Resist, applies with a very damp piece of T-Shirt fabric.

nice!

Looks better than my early work. Practice smoothing out your beveling - such as around the dancer's head. Take smaller steps when moving the beveler and work at holding it absolutely vertical. You may want to obtain several bevelers in different sizes. Than has helped me, especially in tight corners. Also keep the beveling a more consistent depth. Compare the lower side of the dancer's arms with the top of her shoulders and around the back of her dress. You can re-case the leather and go over these areas, so nothing lost except for time spent, and you learn something while doing that. Practice on scraps. Above all, keep going and don't get discouraged.

Have used a small grinder to shorten the snap post when using lighter leather, such as 4-5 oz. Not the best solution for high-volume work, but it does produce a seated snap w/o the bend you have been experiencing.

very nice.

Very nice work. Like you, I am a retired Marine, and have taken to making knives the same way - buying the blades and adding scales and making sheaths. My wife keeps asking me what I'm going to do with them. Need to re-size some pics so I can upload.

I find the Adams Leather Works you tube videos quite helpful and informative. Have made several holsters - both pancake and Avenger styles - using his techniques.

I built this pony with scrap laying around the garage. Works quite well. https://www.instructables.com/Simple-and-Cheap-Stitching-Pony/ Or look at this: http://rogueleather.com/2010/11/project-stitching-horse/ There is a set of plans here:

I use a dremel tool with a felt wheel and jeweler's rouge to keep my edgers polished and sharp. Make sure the wheel is turning away from the cutting edge.

Awesome.

Been using a Badger airbrush and compressor (no tank) for models for maybe 30 years, no problems. Got a Harbor Freight airbrush to use for leather, so no potential of cross-contamination with paint thinner and alcohol used to clean them. I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol for cleaning out leather dye, and hot water for finishes such as Resolene (which I thin 50/50 with water). Always disassemble and soak the tool after running alcohol or water through it to clear out the residual. Have not had a problem in the 3 years or so that I've been doing that. Use a HF compressor that has air pressure adjustment (no tank). Haven't touched the pressure adjustment since I made the initial adjustment. I always test the flow to make sure it's what I want before spraying leather. Wipe the tip of the airbrush with a piece of tissue after you've set the airbrush down for even a few seconds, then test spray. No moisture trap, but where I live humidity is not an issue - we start complaining if it gets to 20%. I DO have one on the rig I use for models, as I used to live in a very humid environment. The only times my HF airbrush has puked on something were from the cup, which has no lid. I chalk that up to operator error. I suggest practice on something like cereal box cardboard . A bit of dye will buy a lot of learning.

Very nice!

Love the simplicity of the cartridge loops.