tnawrot2

That's it, i have spent hours on my computer going back to history and bookmarks looking for it. Thanks

Your needle broke at the needles weakest point, the hole where the thread goes through. It is not solid like the rest of the needle. Look at the thickness of the needle at the sides where the thread goes through, the sides are a lot thinner than the rest of the needle. I would suggest never grip that area with pliers or you be breaking more needles.

Earlier this year i was on someone site and he was talking about a new strap cutter he was designing. A couple of months later I went to the site and it looked that I might be interested in buying one. I believe it had a canted handle, made of wood, had a better way of securing the blade and looked better than anything I have seen. The cost was around $35.00. Now I can't find the website and googled and can't find it. It wasn't a store but someone that was making saddles or horse tack. If anyone can help me locate it I would appreciate it.

I would clean the foot with alcohol to degrease it and then apply some JB Weld to the grooves. Try to form it in the shape you want, it dries as hard as a rock, you could further shape it with a file or grinder. Smooth it out with sandpaper and you are done. As you are not making the foot any thinner, you wont have to adjust the pressure on the foot.

Is the buckle light for its size, does a magnet stick to it?

A Singer 31-15 is a straight stitcher that can be fitted with a roller foot that would fit your needs. They are used on western boot tops sewing the intricate stitching. Make sure you use the smallest pulley possible on the motor, or get a servo motor. If you look hard enough you could find a 31-15 for about $200, I bought mine for less than $100

The CB4500 is basically the same as the Cobra 4. There are a couple of videos on youtube on the Cobra 4 . Go to the ten minute mark to find out about the bobbin. Once you put the thead in the hole you must pull it under the spring. And yes, you must hold both treads towards the back for at least 4 stitches when starting a new piece.

Your machine is primarily a clone of a Juki 441, the Cobra 4, Cowboy and others are also clones of the Juki 441. If you go to you tube and look up Cobra 4 there are a couple videos that will help..... http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=cobra%204%20sewing%20machine&sm=1

First of all, lets look at the first picture of the three your recently posted. Looking from the side you can see only two rods/shafts. One for the needle and one for the foot. If it was a walking foot machine you would have three rods/shafts one for the needle, one for the outer foot and one for the inner foot. The last machine that you posted looks like a double needle sewing machine, and it is not walking foot. Also it might not sew with heavy thread, and the height of the pressure foot might not be high enough for heavy work.

It seems the information I found is incorrect. Blowing up the picture, it shows that the Adler 204-64 is not a walking foot. Here is the blown up picture

I found some information on an Adler 204-64 that might help. It sews leather up to 5/8" thick, it has triple feed, sews in reverse, uses needle sizes from 160 to 230, can use thread up to size 386 and has a maximum stitch length of 12mm

You didn't mention as to what type of hardware you are looking for. What comes to mind when I see JWP is Jeremiah Watt Products http://www.ranch2arena.com/home.html

You can't go wrong with Barry King tools. http://www.barrykingtools.com/

You said you are using a piece of scrap leather, if you are using any belly leather it has different consistencies and firmness that would cause your problem.

When I went to the Ferdco site it mentioned that your machine is a modified GA5. I would contact Raphael Sewing and ask for instructions. It seems that when the knob fell off, the forward/reverse mechanism was disconnected. http://www.raphaelsewing.com/install_ga5/ga5-install.htm

Is there a tag on the servo motor which would indicate manufacture and model number. If so can you post it here>

If you have a servo motor, there should be a switch on the motor that changes directions.

Look up on Ebay singer 7 class

I just sent you a message.

There is one on Ebay.

Looks like a Drahthaar or a Griffon.

I would call BK and talk to him, nobody know his swivel knives more than Barry.

Sold

I have the series of three Cary Schwartz instructional DVDs. If you go to his website there are only two listed. There are two on Design and one on Carving. I paid $135.00 will sell for $100.00 plus shipping.

In a later post of Terry's he recommends Brownells Black compound.Here is the information from his post. I'm very happy its working for you! Yes, that edge should hold up for a long time just by stropping. As usual, I recommend the Brownell's 555 Black compound for that or for buffing on a wheel. Keep it as flat as possible while just making contact with the edge. Adjust the angle according to your preference, but too much edge into the wheel or on the strop rounds the edge over and though it still might cut, it won't glide through as effortlessly when you cut. That sweet spot has to be "discovered"...its nothing I can explain, but when you find it, you'll notice a big difference! When it comes time to hone it, try to keep that gradually tapered convex edge. Any shoulder from honing a flat bevel will tend to hang up and resist the cut... Terry