tnawrot2

Have you lowered the price?

I am doing a Happy Dance, I just bought an Adler 205 for $1,200.00. The 600+ mile round trip doesn't bother me. Searchtempest is my friend.

This machine will not sew halters or bridles. You can get smooth feet that will not leave marks. You must hold/pull back both top and bottom thread for at least three stitches when you start sewing, if you don't you will get a bird nest around the bobbin.

This site list a wide throat Champion harness stlitcher http://www.proleptic.net/products/index/10?page=3

Don't be concerned with all the attachments now, learn the basics first and then learn to use the attachments. Make sure you are using the correct thread for your needle size, set it at 5 to 6 stitches per inch, and set the servo motor to go slow. When you first start stitching your leather, hold the top and bottom thread towards the back for about three stitches, this will eliminate a lot of thread bunching problems. Do not try to force your leather, let the machine go at its own pace.

The OP must remember that the 97 needles only fit a class 97 machine, but if you have a 97 class machine and found out that the original needles are hard to find, you either shortened a Landis #1 needle by 1/2" or adjusted the needle bar and use a 794 needle. When the price is lowered contact me.

I wold also be interested in the rest of the chisel point if any are still available, also what size are they?

That is what I thought the problem was, I put in a new needle and awl and still have the same problem.

I have a Landis #3 that I need help tuning up, I had a old copy of a manual that I can't find and I will order a new one on Monday. The trouble started when the needle wouldn't follow the awl, someone suggested that the needle bar was worn, at full top position there is a very small amount of play. I noticed that the needle wasn't in alignment with the awl. I removed the three large bolts with slotted head and kept adjusting the inner screws until the needle went through the same hole the awl made. Was this the correct way? The three inner screws allow for left and right alignment, is there a way to adjust the front and back alignment, looking at the back of the piece (I ran the machine without any thread so I could distinctly see the awl hole and the needle hole) it seems the needle is hitting a little back of the awl hole.

If you were to extend the lever that the "S" hook is attached to, by attaching a flat steel piece to the existing lever with two bolts and then attaching the "S" hook to the other end, you will increase the travel of the foot pedal that engages the motor.

I'l take the Barry King Maul tnawrot2@yahoo.com

Great pictures! Where did you find that great collection of old Landis #3, if it was at the King Museum I missed them.

I have a 111w155 and it is a great machine, parts readily available. I would find a used table and buy a servo motor. You will also need a bobbin winder and thread stand.

The bottom number is the month and year of production and the serial number. So it was made 10th month of 74. The top number is model number.

Your fringe looks great, how do you do it?

Here is some information I found about Bona Allen. Bonaparte Allen establiblished the company in Buford, Georgia in 1873. When he died in 1926, I think he left the company to his employees. The company was sold to Tandy corp., makers of TexTan saddles, around 1970 and moved to Sweet Home, Texas. For several years the saddle-making went dormant. At some point in the late 80's or early 90's, it was sold to Foxwood of Illinois.

I sent you the information, there is 15 hours left on the auction

There is one on Ebay, look under Vintage leathercraft.

Go plant a garden....you really have a green thumb!

I never seen front rigging that far forward on the skirts, it looks like if you get the saddle on the horse in the proper position the girth would be too far forward and interfere with the horse's leg movement (pinching the horse).

I have a pair of snippers at each machine, for the sit down machines I attach the a short piece of either heavy string/cord or light chain, to the right of where I sit, whenever I need the snippers I just drop my right hand next to my side, and they are there. Being attached they will be there every time, they wont walk off of be used somewhere else. For the Landis #3 and the Singer 97-10 it is attached about the same way.

From the near side, pick up the fender and flip it over, look for three set of numbers stamped on the fender/stirrup leather and post them here. The one set of four numbers with a letter at the end in the model number, another set of four number is the month and year of production, the final set of numbers is the serial number.

Sheridan Leather Outfitters carries this style of stirrup adjuster. I found the original patent application on google......http://www.google.de/patents?id=LGMmAAAAEBAJ&printsec=abstract#v=onepage&q&f=false

I talked to Bill Gomer today about his Saddlemaking DVDs, he is in the process of getting them duplicated and should have them around the middle of April. When I talk to him again I will find out how to order them, his website is of no help.