tnawrot2

Cowboy 2500

JoAnns fabrics normally have a 40% discount for one item, go to their web page.

You have a message.

There are two dealers that advertise on this forum, they are there to answer questions before and after the sale, they can suggest a sewing machine for your application. http://www.leathermachineco.com/pages/contactus.php http://www.tolindsewmach.com/cb4500.html

Is this in the Stillwater craiglist for $1,100.00 it was $995.00, the following is from ferdco website. Ferdco Pro 440 "Baby Bull" The Pro 440 is a Medium Weight Tack Stitcher $995.00 Complete with Table, Stand, Speedreducer & New 110V DC Servo Motor Reliability and Affordability Specifications: Model - 440 Style - Cylinder Arm 1/2 in of presser foot lift Sews up to 1/2 inch of leather or material. Feed System (bottom feed) Forward Stitching 11 & 1/2 inches of work space High Lift for sewing bulky materials Uses Thread Sizes, 99, 138, 207, 277, 346, 415 Needle System is a 328R for material or a 328LR, D or S for leather. uses needle sizes from #160 to #250 Oscillating shuttle - Barrel style bobbin Speed - up to 800 stitches per minute Attachment Package. Includes - left toe presser foot, right toe presser foot, roller guide assembly & 2 spools of thread. Deluxe Package includes all the above just mentioned attachments and the Wooden Flatbed Attachment. The Pro 440 is not equipped with the reverse stitching mechanism. The Pro 440 is designed for the leather industry to be used as a medium weight leather sewing machine, primarily as a tack sewing machine. The Pro 440 has a bottom feed for the feeding mechanism. This means the feed dog under the throat plate is the device that feeds the material. Although the Pro 440R is not a walking foot machine it still has the ability to sew those heavier projects. The Pro 440 is perfect for sewing or repairing leather bridles, halters, breast collars and most saddle work. We do not recommend this machine as the best machine for sewing saddle skirts but there are customers that do sew saddle skirts with this machine. they were $995.00

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Try sewing a piece of leather the same thickness without forcing it, just hold your fingers on each side to guide it. I believe the Cowboy cb4500 is a compound triple feed machine, and you shouldn't try forcing the material, the needle will feed the material at its own pace keeping the stitch length equal.

This should help you, it is in four languages, scroll down for English. http://www.bootmaker.com/adlernew.pdf

English saddles have adding between the tree and the leather we see, it is not tree covered with leather. Whereas a western saddle has tree, leather then the wool skin. So both English and Western saddles have padding between the tree and the horse if put on the horse without and extra pads or blankets.

Here is a link to Osborne oval punches. Some are within 1/32" from your measurements. http://www.csosborne.com/no158.htm

It was Ron's drawdown stand not Tom's. As long you put a metal plate on the ceiling, you can still use the Bushnell laser. Here is a picture of Tom's drawdown stand with the laser attached.

Rob, Last May, at the Sheridan show, Pete Gorrell was using a laser that was mounted on a hydraulic saddle stand, I think it was made by Tom leather tools. The model of laser was.... Bushnell 82897 Pivot Point Laser Level there was a square bushing mounted to the stand and an "L" piece of 3/4" that slid into the bushing. The laser has a magnetic base that is put on the side of the "L" that is over the saddle. You should be able to buy the laser for about $30.00.

You will need a sewing cylinder sewing machine that sews up the cylinder, like a Singer 11-17. http://parts.singerco.com/IPinstManuals/11_17.pdf

I used to use this technique years ago when I made a lot of geometric design belts, it is called dry block dyeing. Take a 6" piece of 2x2, wrap an old cotton t-shirt around it, staple it to the wood. Put some dye in a pan, lightly put some dye on the block, rub the block on some cardboard to get most of the dye off, you might want to tilt the block so you take more off one side than another. Try the block on some cardboard to see the pattern, once you have it like you want, use it on the leather. You want to keep the dryer end of the block in the direction you want less dye, and go in linear strokes.

It is actually called a bleed knot, the same knot saddlemakers use to attach saddle strings/conchos to the saddle. Here is a link to a similar question. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=34597

I agree with Randy, it looks great! I studied the saddle for a while, and couldn't find anything to critique on. That is the best sheepskin lining on a saddle I have seen in a long time. Keep up the great work, they get easier and better the more you make.

At least you will have a seat pattern for the nest two saddles. I like your seat rub stick, where did you find it? Terry

You have a PM.

I went to his blog and found out he uses many machines, the Consew, a 7 class Singer, and a cylinder sewing machine. You will need two sewing machines to make his type of bags, it looks like he sews the sides first on the Consew, and then sews the bottom with the cylinder machine. Could you attach the site to his video?

I didn't know the price when I gave the page number, you pay for convenience. When I started making hunting dog collars, I would punch the holes by hand. When I started to make 200 in a weekend, I had to find a better way. I bought a five ton punch press and had a die made where I could punch 5 holes at a time, either 1" of 3/4" spacing. I made a jig where when I fed the collar, it would be centered and the holes would be at an identical distance from the tip.

Look on page 248, this one does it all.

I have big fingers, and they won't fit in a lot of yokes. I am interested in your yoke, is it padded?

You can't get needles for a Singer 97-10.

Wizcrafts wrote a great article on leather sewing machines, take time and read all the responses. http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=25239

All "F" tools are used in Figure Carving, it doesn't have a flat face (it is curved) so it can't be used for straight line beveling, and being not flat, it isn't used for beveling. Get a copy of a Tandy catalog, all beveling tools are marked with "B" and the Matt tools are marked with "M".