Tastech

@kiltedkrafts As they don't have serial numbers i don't think you will ever know . All i can say is that it is pre world war 2 because the factory was bombed. Vihl perderson took over production after that and made them under their name . Both machines are identical and parts are interchangeable . Needles are still available from the link below but to get parts means to buy an old machine and cannibalise it. https://www.leffler.com.au/pederson-needle-ltr-for-309-machine/

Here is he previous post i was referring to . I am sure it is the same machine as this post mentions only a different brand name .

I have seen the same machine with a different name. The machine in question i have seen was a Hugo Wertheim Melbourne . From my previous research i believe the machine was made under licence in melbourne. Hugo Werthiem also made smaller domestic machines and even piano's. Its been 5 years since i saw the machine and i really regret not buying it for $1200. If memory serves correct there was a recent post which has a picture of the Werthiem patcher .

While on the subject here is another restoration . Its an Esto 3 in 1 . Similar to a Landis . When i got it it was seized from being outside for 20 years. I replace it with a new blade and had to make a crank handle for it . As a matter of interest to fellow Esto 3 in 1 owners . The rotary blade i replaced is a new Landis blade . Therefore an Esto round knife / blade and the Landis are interchangeable. I got my blade in Australia from Leffler and sons in Melbourne . The color choice this time was inspired by a Subaroo that drove by . Estos were originally and ugly green but i think i chose one a little more appealing to my eye . The green color of the 3 in 1 and the orange one in the previous post are both auto paints in a candy pearl . The auto paint shop down the road will mix any color i want and will put it in an aerosol can for so i don't have to clean a spray gun between coats . Both machines work perfectly and are in every day use . I believe the orange one is over 100 years old and the green one from the 1950's

I forgot about this thread , Here the story. I bought the esto skiver in a previous post from RoToMiMo. I stripped it down to bare bones and went the whole hog. Below is a photo of the finished job. I went full Liberace on the paint job inspired by a Ford ranger that drove by when i was thing about color. I know its a bit out there but why not .

@bruce johnson That's a pretty impressive collection you have there Bruce . Excellent job on their restoration . I have about 30 lasting pliers in my collection but have no cast bell type . To be honest i didn't even know they existed till a couple of days ago . I will now be looking out for a decent one to add to my collection .

@lhow I would take a punt and say they are pre 1900's. The later models with a bell shaped hammer had screw in hammers ,the one pictured is cast as a whole piece .The earliest reference catalogue i have is from 1910 and it shows the screw in bell style . In fact that is the first one by any maker that i have seen with a cast bell hammer . With a rust converter treatment and a going over with a wire wheel they could become serviceable again .

As mentioned the pin is tapered and can be knocked out pretty easy using the right size drift one way or the other. It is very important not to use a hammer to get the pulley off . The best and safest way is to use a 3 jaw gear puller . Without feeling or listening to the machine i cant really say if it needs any attention . Is it just a little stiff or does it actually bind to a standstill ? The groove in the pulley is CNC machined to a tight tolerance is i would not mess with it . The bearing that runs inside it is replaceable and is softer metal therefore sacrificial . I would just persist with running it for about 1/2 a mile of stitching and see what happens from there

There is a break in period with them , I am sure the binding is in the upper pulley wheel .On the machine side of the upper pulley wheel you will notice an elliptical groove . the needle lifting arm ( the see-saw bit across the top) has a little bearing that sits in side the elliptical groove and this is what give the see-saw its motion thus lifting the needle . This usually needs a bit of time to bed in. You will probably notice the tightness occurs when the bearing is in a tighter radius in the groove . Some older singers still have that tight spot even after 30 years . Technically the machine is a singer clone in every way and should perform as one . They have not been around for that long so no one really knows how long they will last . My bet is at least a lifetime, where a singer might last 3 life times . I have 3 singers and one clone . the singers are well over 100 years and work perfectly 99% of the time . The clone is 3 years old and still a little tight but prefers a thicker thread than the singer . i ended up putting an original singer shuttle and bobbin in it and works better . I think the clone bobbin shuttles are not that good especially the tension spring on them . I think oil and putting it to work should sort it out

What a grand old lady . The machine i mean .lol Did anyone else notice the wear on the outer foot pedal in photo 5 ? That probably took 30-40 years to get it like that . When i look at old machines like that i can't help wonder . Some one has made a living using it , bought a house and raised a family sent their kids to college and retired . The machine gets passed to a new worthy owner and the cycle starts again . I am sure the old girl has heard laughter and felt tears and no doubt being a Landis many a curse word has been spoken to it and in its presence . Still going though and by the looks of it still loved. makes me smile

@acem77 Below is a link to an English shoe making tool manufacturer called George Barnsley The catalogue is from the 1920's . Barnsley tools were probably the best in their field at the time and still used today . I still use vintage Barnsleys's everyday . I think the catalogue with help you identify what you have . But we still want to see photos . https://archive.org/details/barnsley-and-sons-shoe-tools-catalogue-1927/page/n1/mode/2up?view=theater Click the link and download . On the bottom right you will see left and right arrows .click the arrows to turn the pages . In there you will find a version of just about every shoe making tool and what they are called . Other makers have variations of the same tool but are generally named the same . I use the catalogue as a reference source but i am pretty familiar with most of it . I think i may even have a bout 70% of what is pictured , not because i use them but because i collect them . For those that a wondering what a welt mill looks like ,below is a photo . The teeth on the mill correspond to a height or thickness of leather . A skiving knife is held across the chosen teeth and the leather strip pulled through cutting it at the desired thickness . Essentially it is a leather splitter . Its not a big tool

I am intrigued please do post some photos . Brass welt mils were made of brass so they would hold up better in the salt water . Most other tools would be made of steel with wood handles . It would be interesting to see how these hold up over time . I would be fascinated in the the background story . Where were the tools found and what year did the ship sink . Where did it come from and where was it going . You would be surprised with the meticulous records kept by shipping companies . If you can find the records you can find out a full cargo list . ,where it came from and where it was going . I get excited when i find old tools in a long forgotten shed or in the back of an old shop covered in dust . Its like finding treasure . But actually bringing them up from a shipwreck is about as good as treasure hunting gets . The fact that you found a welt mill tells me a few things . Good year welting became fairly normal around the 1850's so it would be some time after that that there would have been a market for a factory produced welt mill . I have seen new ones for sale on etsy i think , but there would be limited demand for them now days . To be honest i i have never seen one come up for sale on Ebay in the last 10 years . I think the tool is so obscure that no one really knows what it is so mis-identify it. There was one owned by the master shoe maker who taught me but i never saw him use it because we would buy welts pre made in various thickness and widths . If i ever do come across one in the flesh i would not hesitate to buy it to add to my collection .

@susanjeanscott did you by any chance buy this machine in Canberra a couple of years ago ?

Perhaps 2 versions of motor 120 volts for north America and 220-240 volts for the rest of the world .

I would use a wooden dowel to repair the hole and then fix the screws into the same position. Select a dowel size .eg 1/4 " dowel . Drill out the existing hole with a 1/4' drill bit . Apply a high strength wood glue and knock in the dowels . When dry after 24 hours screw into original position . It's pretty much the same method a carpenter would use when replacing screws on the hinges to re-hang a loose door . The method seems to work well .