Tastech

On the subject of nails and in particular heel nails . Have you ever wondered how heels are nailed on from the inside of the shoe ? Or especially how boot heels are nailed on when you can hold the nail to start or get into the boot with a hammer ? We use a slide hammer . Every proper cobbler needs a slide hammer . They are specialized tool that not many people have seen or even if they have would have no idea what it is . I have never seen one for sale on Ebay or other sites . The only maker i know of is George Barnsley . They were out of production for over 50 years but they recently revived the old tool and did a production run . My old one had just about had it so i bought a new one . Not cheap but worth it . The tool is used on the inside the shoe to nail the heel block on . Photo #1 the tool . You lift the ball slide and drop a nail in the side hole . with one knock the nail gets set Photo #2 The nails . The nails are relatively thick with a spiral shaft for holding down and not becoming loose and even more important not squeaking Photo #3 You can see the slide mechanism. The business end has a tool steel replaceable tip for contact with the nail. I use this tool mainly as a Repair tool for shoe making i use a heel press which is a small machine in itself . The slide hammer is one of my favorite tools . Actually now that i think of it there is a cheaper generic one on the market that you have to pull the slide right out to drop a nail in but it just doesn't have the sexiness of the George Barnsley and unbefitting of a gentleman . LOL

@Mablung. The nails are temporary and get pulled out as the welt is sewn on . They are then hidden under the welt . I do a carved leather sole and try to get my nails onto the raised bit where i punch the awl through for the welt holes or right on the edge between the 2 edges . I don't know if you know what gemming is . ( not a word you hear spoken outside of a cobbler shop or shoe factory ) Its the factory way of attaching the welt to the inner sole . Rather than use a thick piece of leather and carve out what you don't need leaving a raised edge around the perimeter 6mm off the edge . Factories use gemming . Its a canvas strip folded and only glued to the innersole . The welt stitches go through the gemming picking up the upper and the welt . Any cobbler will tell you that when you resole a shoe the gemming will always need some gluing back specially the sides . I don't know why they just don't pass a stitch around it to hold it on . it would take about 30-45 seconds per shoe to do so . A welt does not necessarily go around the full outside edge of the Sole . 80% of the time it starts and stops about 10 mm under where the heel is I posted a couple of videos on the cowboy boot thread showing a shoe making process . There you can see the carved sole . The youtube channel is called Terry KIM there you will see the carved inner sole and how he attaches the welt .There are some aspects of the complete process missing because the editor either thinks it is boring or he has a trade secret he doesn't want to share. Shoe makers were and probably still are a secretive bunch . Some work side by side separated by a curtain ( like in a doctors surgery ) They have a little method or quirk they do't want others to see . But then again they are probably just wanking . lol Nails for lasting pre welt are 30mm long and 1.2 thick ( you dont belt your fingers with that length ). I use copper coated nails because the don't stain the damp leather . plain steel leave a black spot . Fun fact . You used to buy nails in a box by the weight not quantity . Certain nails were labeled "sterilized " This is because you would put a few in you mouth to have them handy . Either way you could still taste the steel . Some tacks came as sterilized as well because reaching into the the nail bowl you would prick you finger tips and they would become infected . Nails and tacks are 2 different things used for different purposes .

@chuck123wapati Are you volunteering ? Feel free . lol I am not one to move the furniture around . If need be i can just do updates as they are required . I am sort of hoping there are a few more shoe makers on this site or come in from elsewhere and we can all really get into it and chew the fat . I am on another forum , a shoe repair forum .which i wont name but they are a miserable bunch of geezers and all they want to talk about is keys . I mentioned some where on here that those kiosk cobblers are like fast food workers . Hardly masters of their trade . This is the place to be and i love the collective knowledge that gets shared around from professionals to beginners in all aspects of the craft . Its funny how i will do a google search about some obscure tools or machine and this site always seems to have a mention of it .

@Mulesaw , I posted at thread in the shoes boots and what ever title , i thought it would be more appropriate there out of the way . It was only 20 mins ago and have forgotten what i called it . lol Now go home and fix those boots

This is new thread dedicated to tools of the trade related to shoe making and cobblers . It appears that we get a bit side tracked on some threads and the shoe making enthusiasts and myself "hijack" some threads and start talking about shoes, so this thread is dedicated to the subject. I am a shoemaker and cobbler and have a passion for vintage tools and how they were used . I am also a collector of these tools and try incorporate them in my work . I am also a former metal fabrication and industrial engineer so i have the skill and means to restore them to their former glory . In another thread about cowboy boots i offered to explain shoe makers lasting pliers , the types and their uses so here goes . Lasting pliers are a tool specifically used by shoe makers for fitting the leather upper to a shoe last . There are various shapes and sizes including regional variations , shoe variations and for specific procedures . They all do pretty much the same thing but differently . Its not a tool that has multi function uses but you could extract nose hairs if you really wanted to . They are like pliers but most have a curved beak with a solid protrusion on the bottom side . They are used for pulling the shoe leather over the last and putting nails in place to hold it in shape while the welt is sewn into place They are also used for glue down construction . As i have mentioned at other times it is a process . the shoe upper ( the sewn leather bit) is put over a last of the correct size , lined up back and front and a nail is place through the upper heel part to find center . The toe area is then pulled over using the pliers and a nail place there. then back to the bottom of the heel and a nail placed there . The shoe is then eyed for symmetry and then the fun begins . Depending on what type of shoe will determine the ideal pliers. The pliers vary in curvature of the beak , the curvature of the handle and the width of the beak . For the toe and heel of the shoe a narrow width pliers is ideal because you make little folds to get around the curve of toe and heel . For the sides a lager plier can be used . The leather is pulled tight over the last using the pliers held in place with the spare thumb a nail is put next to the thumb and knocked in with the metal protrusion on the bottom of the pliers . So the lasting pliers are 2 tools in 1 . For pulling but also a hammer . The nails are not knocked in all the way because they are temporary . most shoe maker i know have 2 pliers , wide mouth and narrow . Most shoe makers specialize with a certain type of shoe or a similar style so their tools will be tailored to their specialty. A mens lace up shoe maker has different lasts to a stiletto maker and a boot maker has his own preference as well . But we are talking preference here . Once you get used to your tool you tend to use that and make use of what you got simply because you have a muscle memory . Posted below are a couple of photos showing some different types and different styles . Top from left to right German style marked 1 B narrow mouth Chinese made new . ( cheap and has a surprisingly good feel to it ) I highly rate it unknown English wide mouth English Timmins wide mouth , curved beak English George Barnsley medium /narrow mouth , moderate curved beak ( my favorite ) English George Barnsley wide mouth , Curved beak . (My second favorite) Bottom -Left to right . English George Barnsley Bulldog pliers . Very rare and unusual . Sought after and expensive . It is used to pull in the waist (shank ) area of heavy boots . The bottom handle straddles the last while you push down on the handle . Nordic / German pliers - wide mouth . They also come in various widths and slight variations Saddle makers pliers . Not exactly sure what they are specifically used for , but i think these too are referred to as bull dogs . My nieces lasting pliers - Narrow mouth -cut down . She can put a pro to shame . English Timmins . Wide mouth curved beak . Note the the hammer bit or anvil on the bottom . It screw out and can be tuned up or down to suit the weight you require . More of a boot makers plier but would use a narrow mouth smaller version if i find one . The second photo shows the various widths and beak tapers . Most of these were rusted heaps of crap when i got them and gave them new life . some would have spent a whole working career with the one person and even handed down to an apprentice . I really wish i knew the specific history of them all . The 2 barnsleys i use were handed down to me by Francesco Berlutti the master boot maker who taught me the finer details of boot making . he was the boot maker of none other than Benito Mussolini . Those pliers made boots for El Duce himself and i still use them to make my own . I feel like i channel old"Cranky Franky" when i use them . Any questions please ask . I got nothing better to do with my nights .lol

@Mulesaw and @MablungOk , good point , . Talk about fussy customers .lol No wonder i am a cranky bastard . I will post my promised lasting pliers rant some where but not sure where exactly so look for it .I will tittle the thread vintage cobblers tools .

@fredk, Ok ok dont shout .lol @RoToMiMo It's a beautiful machine . Mechanically it is the same as the American St Louis but has a different body shape , Dare i say more elegant . However it doesn't have the guard over the gears . I don't think they ever came with one . No OH&S back in the day . Not much is known about ESTO but i have asked a few old timers about them and they tell me this . Esto was named after and Estonian who emigrated to Australia in the early 1900's He made shoe repair machines and steel lasts for the cobbler industry . He was based in Woolongong New south wales where the was once a huge steel making plant . ( think Pittsburgh) Esto stopped production some time in the 1980's . I am not sure if it was because he died or it more than likely coincided with the demise of the Australian footwear and textile industry. I have quite a bit of Esto stuff but mainly steel repair lasts and lasting jacks . He also made a long arm trimmer and skiver known in Australia as a rough rounder . They still exist and are still being used in cobbler shops around Australia . Esto must have had some sort of licencing agreement with Landis because the rough rounder looks identical to the landis 5in1 and blades are compatible with each other . I have often wondered who Esto was and what his background was but can't find any solid information . Based on what he produced i have come to a couple of conclusions. He must have had a shoe making or cobbler back ground , Either him personally or his father and was exposed to the needs of cobblers . Through what ever circumstances worked in a foundry or was perhaps an engineer and when he came to Australia realized there was a gap and a demand in the market for his redesigned and improved products . I would assume he worked at the port Kembla steel works in Woolongong and had a side gig going . His products are not some backyard venture and would have required a blast furnace and sand molds . Therefore because of his background in both shoe making and engineering he combined the knowledge of both As would seem reasonable . His products are still around today and still widely used . And to Mr Esto i take my hat off to you sir ,you are a legend . Esto hold a place in my heart because i too am an immigrant ( from Greece ) I come from a family of shoe makers and cobblers ( 3 Generations at least ) because my family wanted a better life for me than to be another shoe maker the encouraged me to become an engineer . After 30 years of engineering i have come back to my roots as a shoe maker and cobbler . However because of my engineering career i have a love and appreciation of mechanical and and industrial machinery especially from the shoe making and cobbler trade . I feel a heart felt duty to source and restore old shoe industry machines and restore them to their former glory. It would be an honor to have it and restore it RoToMimo I will email you later . In the meantime some of the other members are expecting my lecture of shoe making making pliers and i can hear them yelling .lol

@Mablung, Here are some photos of some of the tools i use 1st one Basic essentials for removing soles and heels . Self evident accept the 2 on the right . One is a cold chisel with a fat handle that i poke under the heel rubber to lift it so i can grab it with the pincers , The other is what i use to remove heel blocks . It is an upholstery tool made by osborne. I have sharpened it to a fine taper . Osborne do make a heel lifter but i don't have one . Most cobblers just use a screw driver But not me . Because i have class .lol 2nd various knives . The knives start off full size and get reshaped as the get smaller from right to left plus a few others you will recognize them . 3rd hammer styles .left to right . London pattern , french pattern ( Napoleons hat ), traditional English, German . There are variations depending on the maker . The German pretty is much the same regardless of maker The English make 4 sizes of each as well as styles . For making i prefer a German , for repairs i prefer a London #2. But each to their own preference. I like a fatter handle on my repair hammers so i change them . There are also cordwainers hammer . Which looks a little wired to me but common in the US . Then there is a planishing hammer which is a double header , sometimes you see them sold as a panel beater hammer because people misidentify them . The one thing they all have in common it the have a slightly domed face . For a first hammer i would recommend a German pattern made by stahl because the flat end on the back is really good for starting small nails . They are available new for not very much . 4th top view of the styles 5th a few more variations From left to right . English x2 , German , French , London x2 All hammers have their niche but generally all do the same job , much like knives so pick a style and you will get used to it , Then when you see one going for cheap grab it . I buy mine from different online sources and usually just buy a rusted old head . I then acid bath ,grind them back to suit my aesthetic , polish and put a handle on that gives the hammer a good balance . I think the only new hammer i have ever bought was a German . The rest are about 100 years old maybe more . I know some purist will tell me that i have ruined the patina and to them i say F you . My hammers my choice . For my next lecture i will discuss the various makes and styles of lasting pliers .lol Just joking , but if anybody really want to know i will . Any one interested in cowboy boots needs to learn about pegging and the basic tools involved . (let the pegging jokes roll in guys ) Pegging is a US and Mexican boot technique that is no longer common in the rest of the world . Its a good way of attaching soles when nails or stitching is not the best approach for various reasons .

There is another type of leather suitable for heavy duty aprons call "KIP" leather . is doesn't have the pebble finish though. It's an open grain leather (matt finish ) and does have an oily feel to it and it is relatively soft for its thickness but tough as nails . It comes in various thicknesses . I have some 3mm that i use for sharp tool pouches , straps and heavy duty boots . From what i have seen , i thinks Nicks hand made boots uses kip leather for their boots . May i ask what is the apron you want to make going to be used for ?

@mablung Check out this George Barnsley catalogue from the 1920's . They made shoe makers tools in Sheffield . I use it as a reference for identifying vintage tools . If you are on a laptop turn the pages using the arrows if on a phone there is a slider on the bottom . I never knew there was so many awls shapes and sizes . Also check out the different knives and the hammer patterns . Many of these tools are in the US and UK and i think they are cheap . most are redundant but i still use quite a few of them . I have a huge collection of vintage shoe makers tools from all over the world . I have spent many an hour looking at them and wondering at the work they have done over the last century . I will some times do something in such a way as to be able to put some of the tools back to work for the day . I have over 30 cobblers hammers and try to rotate them but i do have my favorites but that can vary from year to year and from shoe to shoe . I also bought 11 Ebooks from etsy on shoe making that were published in the late 1800' and early 1900's . They are just a gold mine of lost knowledge and the best 11 bucks i ever spent . https://archive.org/details/barnsley-and-sons-shoe-tools-catalogue-1927/page/70/mode/2up?view=theater I hope other get the same pleasure i do from looking at this old catalogue

@Mocivnik You might want to take a look at shoe leathers called pebble grain . I am not sure if they come in the thickness you require .The soggy sides are somewhat greasy where the pebble grain shoe leathers are not ,also they are softer

Known is Australia as soggy sides https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/5CCSDSBw/Brown-Soggy-sides/pd.php I use it for heavy duty work aprons and boots . you are after 2.6 mm , I think that might be just a little too thick and heavy for an apron . Based on the 2mm i have used

Thanks for your questions and i will try and answer them tailored to what i think would be of interest to you . First of all I am Australian so i will answer you questions with my experience and how it relates to me ,but i am sure it applies to Europe and the Americas . About 40 years ago Australia dropped the 200% tariff on imported footwear and textiles ( UK and US were always exempt ) This lead to cheap inferior imports and people got used to the cheaper price which in turn destroyed the shoe manufacturing in Australia . Factories received less orders , needed less staff and eventually closed down or manufactured overseas . This also made redundant the tanneries , machine suppliers and service people , rubber manufacturers and component makers . Because shoes were cheaper people valued them less because they could buy a new pair for a little over the cost of repair . Yet there were enough good quality repairable shoes around to keep cobblers busy for the next 10-15 years . Because good shoes used to cost the equivalent of a weeks wages people had less but made them last by looking after them and getting them repaired . In the last 40 years a generation has grown up not having an appreciation of quality shoes and focus on brand names not quality . I call them the sneaker generation . Enter fast fashion and you have another generation who doesn't have time to wear out a pair of shoes before the next trend happens because of this manufactures make even crappier shoes . As a result these generation never had the need to know how to look after a pair of shoes or how to make them more presentable let alone how to polish . When it comes to cleaning and polishing shoes it is a simple step by step process however the process and the products used depends on the material . Full grain , nu buck , nappa , suede , reptile and canvas all have their nuances and methods . most grained leathers respond very well to a clean with a damp cloth and a good quality conditioner . Then either a cream or wax polish and a good buff . too easy. But most importantly is knowing when to polish or clean . Unfortunately most people leave it way to late and some avoidable damage is done . For some good quality advice and demonstrations on shoe polishing i recommend a YouTube channel called "Elegant Oxford " just watch his transformations and simple and relaxing narrative . Often some of my older customers will tell me how it was their job to polish the family shoes on a Sunday afternoon so the family can look respectable for the rest of the week . What times they were when a family's dignity balanced of the respectability of their shoes .LOL. To get started in shoe repairs you have to be familiar with the process and it is 100% process . Each process has its tool and technique . Most of the tools are multi functional so you really dont need that many . For repairs some essentials are needed , A cobblers hammer to your liking . For general work and a good all rounder is a German pattern cobblers hammer Made by Stahl , I also love my #2 London pattern George Barnsley for some heavier sole beating . (Bet you didn't know cobblers hammers came in patterns and size numbers) . A decent quality utility knife ( Stanley knife ) is very useful . Look for one with minimum blade movement . A pair of large and small pincers for removing heels and rubber soles and for cutting off nails . A curved awl and a pair of small bent nose pliers for picking out stitches . I use a series of knife blade shapes for different purposes and each cobbler shapes them to his preference . You start off with a big blade and it gets reshaped as it wears down and replaced and it gets smaller and reshaped as you get a new one . You have to find a good supplier of shoe repair materials because you cant really improvise , Sole butt leather , heel rubber , sole rubber and glues are all specific to the shoe repair trade . you will be overwhelmed by how many tread patterns and rubber densities and thicknesses there are , As a general rule we replace like for like . If it was soft we replace it with soft , same goes for hard . You can't stock everything so pick a few and use what you have . When it comes to machinery you really don't need much for home repairs . A sewing machine and a finishing machine are essential. Probably the best sewing machine for repairs is the Singer 29k71 . It is a legend of a machine and rightly deserves its reputation . You don't need a full blown finishing machine but can get away with a belt linishing attachment fitted to a large bench grinder . 36 and 100 grit belts for roughing and finishing sole and heel edges , the rest can be done by hand . Outsole stitchers are and can be a major headache if you don't know the machine and how to operate one . They can be frustrating at best and soul destroying at worse. they are referred to as the devils machine . Learn how to hand stitch soles efficiently and stay away from outsole stitchers . Hand stitching a pair of resoles takes between 60 -90 mins . My advise would be to befriend a cobbler and tell him you want to watch and learn . he may refuse at first but keep pestering . You cant beat the hands on experience . you have to touch feel and smell whats going on and familiarize yourself with the process and see the tools and how they are used . Chances are the cobbler will be a grumpy old bastard but hold your tongue and keep focused . You may even like it and you may even get offered a job . if so take it , the skills are valuable and transferable to other trades . I have a couple of favourite YouTube shoe makers , They are true masters yet just follow a process Terry Kim is similar to they way i like to do things --- Terry Kim's Shoemaking (2020) | Short Film @gnno (youtube.com) Siroeno Yosui is next level he is 2024 shoe make of the year ---- Making HANDMADE Classic Shoes in a Vintage Freudenberg Leather (youtube.com) you may also find this inspiring--- How It's Made:Handmade shoes with Norwegian stitching [asmr] (youtube.com) with these videos pay close attention to their tools and how they use them . All of them true masters . Its late as i write this . Tomorrow i will try and post some photos of some of the essential tools so you know what i mean . chances are you already have some . Sorry for the long winded answers but they were actually short .lol

I am the last Traditional cobbler in my city of 500,000 people . There are shoe repair kiosks in some of the malls but they know jack $hit . They can do some basic heels and not much else . An analogy would be . Kiosk shoe repairs are like a Mcdonalds and i am a qualified chef in a 5 star restaurant . I have always been suspect of a person who calls themselves a cobbler and cuts keys or does engraving . It means you do 3 things half a$$ed. I started as a cobbler then learnt shoe making and ended up as an engineer . After 20 years of engineering i went back to shoe making and being a cobbler simply because i love it . There is a big demand for it but no one wants to learn so i am pretty much the last man standing . Its not a hard job to learn but to learn and be good at it you have to have a passion for it . Therefore i think anyone here on the forum who wants to learn can easily do so by having the drive and just by watching a few videos on youtube to get the jist of how things are done and then practice . You do need a bit of a start up kit but that is easily obtained second hand on ebay because there are no more cobblers left and plenty of tools and machines to go around . One of the main contributors to the decline in cobblers is that shoes are not made they way they used to be and the quality of old is rarely seen anymore. One of the things that has changed in the 30 years is that 30 years ago people looked after their shoes and boots . I am disgusted in quite a few people and their complete lack of care . I can say with all honestly that 90% of people under 40 do not know how to polish their shoes . I only deal with high quality shoes and repair and charge accordingly . It is sad that the trade is on its death bed ,but i think there will always be some cobblers left simply because they love it as i do . Young people are just not interested in learning any trade so that only leaves immigrants . So if one opens shop in your town show some appreciation for the trade and give them some business . I could make a list of the country of origin of the immigrant cobblers and rate them but i know i would get into some sort of trouble but i will name 2 because i am impressed by their consistent work . Turks and Egyptians, i also hear Mexicans are born naturals . Ok thats 3 .

Do you want to oil them or condition them ? Personally i would condition them even if they are an oiled finish . Conditioning preserves the leather and keeps it soft ,Flexible and a good degree of moisture resistance . A neutral conditioner would be suitable . Conditioners are not created equal some are heavy and greasy some are light . In my opinion as a shoemaker a conditioner that contains Mink oil is probably the best because it easily absorbed by shoe leather and is a good base for polish . Mink oil will not darken the leather . When first applied the leather may have a darker wet look but in a few hours it goes back to normal . The good stuff is " renovatuer " By Saphir . If you want to maintain the color Saphir also have colored conditioner which also contains wax and it shines and protects very nice . Other conditioners that contain Jojoba oil , almond oil are also good If choosing a heavier greasy look then dubbin or a neatsfoot oil, or lanolin conditioner is the way to go . Probably the best oil for conditioning an preserving leather is Emu oil , but good luck getting that . I got a gallon of emu fat 20 years ago from a aboriginal hunter and was amazed by what it could do . I would joke that it would soften a brick . It's is mainly used in massage oils as a carrier oil because it draws the Eucalyptus oil ( for example ) deeper into the muscle . However it remains greasy . Having said that Goanna oil (Reptile fat) Has similar properties as a massage oil . Can you see where i am going with this ? Snake is a reptile and has similar properties to both emu and Goanna . So there is some truth to snake oil for therapeutic Purposes . In Australia it is illegal to kill goanna, emu and even snakes except if you are aboriginal and you are going to eat it and you are on your own tribal land. They tell me that they use the lighter emu oil to rub onto arthritic joints and the fat on their boots and harness leather . They also tell me that many a boot has been chewed up by a dog so they hang them up high on a hook when not being worn . I had never seen Elephant leather shoes ever . Until about a month ago where i resoled 3 pairs from 3 different customers in the one week . One of the pairs was a vintage pair and made from the elephants ears . Interesting . The other boots were only a couple of years old and if i wasn't told i would never have guessed elephant leather . I would have guessed soft buffalo . They were made in south Africa but i don't remember the brand . They were a lace up work boot style .

Looks like a Half sole will do the job With a knife cut the stitching between the welt and outersole Remove the outersole with pincers . Under that layer will be cork . Remove the cork the best way you can .Screwdriver will do the job . Remove stitches from the welt using an awl to pick at them and tweezers to remove them . Replace cork layer. Cork floor tile will work if the real stuff is unavailable. I use a clear overhead projector plastic sheet to make the template for the cork . You will work out what i mean . Use a strong contact cement to glue the cork in . With a sanding block of about 36 grit Sand the cork flush with the welt and roughen the welt and any other areas where the new sole will sit as well to give some tooth for the glue . Sole leather is not you average bark tan leather so you might have to source a pair of half soles from a cobbler You will have to skive the sole leather where it will overlap the original near the shank . ( i Use a 30 mm overlap ) Apply contact cement to both shoe and sole and let dry and repeat . with a heat gun get the sole warm and put it in position then hammer it down , you will have to use the back of the cobblers hammer to push the welt against the sole ( yes that's what the other end is used for, That and for starting short nails ) Once all is good trim the excess using a sharp knife and sand the sole edge flush . A channel must be made on the sole to correspond to the distance off the outside of the welt to the stitching hole .(usually about 4-5 mm ) Wet the cut channel with a wet sponge or spray bottle and commence stitching following the welt hole as a space guide . You will need a curved awl , 2 needles and some heavy waxed thread . (The choice is up to you ) You start your hole from the welt side pushing out through the sole . Tighten each stitch as you go . How you finish the edges or sole is up to you but i recommend something waxy What i wrote above is just a summary not a concise step by step . You can watch a few youtube videos to see what i describe demonstrated and make up you own mind if you are confident to proceed . Or just take the boots to a cobbler and let him do what he does best . I do between 10-15 resoles a week but use specialized tools and machinery because i have to make it pay . But when i make my own shoes i hand stitch the soles because of the precision and finish but my fingers and tendons in the elbow ache for a month afterwards . By all means i encourage you to have a go , You will find it satisfying for sure .

Nice work and excellent design .

@Mulesaw. I found out what may parts are for . A victor outsole stitcher . The guys at shoe repair forum helped me out . Perhaps you should join the forum and ask for info . They have a few industry specialists on there . They have some uncanny info on there . They are a grumpy old bunch but helpful none the less https://shoerepairer.info/

@ mulesaw Can you recommend any steampunk lamp makers that might be interested? LOL

@Mulesaw. I checked my box of parts and took a photo of some easily identified parts . The parts seem to all start with the letters VSM then a number . I have no idea what VSM represents . I was hoping someone might know . I have taken some vernier caliper measurements in millimeters of the bobbin and listed the part numbers . The parts shown are definitely from an out sole stitcher but i have no idea what make. By looking at your photos and mine things look a little different .

@JAM It depends on the leather you use . veg tan and chrome tan have different requirements . You can soften up the leather using a mink oil base conditioner and polish over the top . Or before you do that and you need to get them to a right fit you can spray them with water in the tight spots and then wear them just a little damp and they will mold to your feet . Most people have slightly different shaped feet and lasts come in identical pairs so a little tweeking is necessary .Take note of where there are any problems with your existing shoes you have made and adjust the last in that area . For tight spots on shoes i do what i call "breaking" depending on where the tight spot is i will use anything from a broom handle to a steel cobblers last and use a pushing and rolling method to work the leather . Alot of people have problems with the heel area which causes blisters i use the breaking method and it softens things up . When it comes to polish i think a cream polish is best because it contains conditioner . Wax polishes contain a solvent that over time can dry out the leather and it begins to crack . Think of it like this . Conditioner is like a skin moisturizer. Polish is like make up. They do 2 different things . If the leather is well conditioned then it does not need polish . A cream polish is midway between the 2 . It contains conditioning oils , color pigment and some wax that polishes up quite well . I prefer mink oil base conditioners because they penetrate well and offer water resistance and allows the leather to breathe . The saphir brand does this . Collonil is good too. Avoid things like dubbin . that is more suited to oiled leathers and work boots . Neatsfoot oil is ok but can leave a greasy residue it is more suited for saddles and harness. When it comes to custom boots the are misnamed they are made to order not bespoke . The problem is the place selling them takes 2 measurements . Length and width them passes them on to a factory . 2 measurements are no way near enough I take at least 6 and make a note of any foot anomalies and 3 calf measurements at the very least . I make shoes but not riding boots . If a shoe doesn't fit right a little piece of me dies , because i have to re make it and that could be 20 - 30 hours of my life i will never get back . So its the person taking the measurements that screws up not necessarily the shoe maker. I don't care what any one says but you can't self measure , you just can't .

Lol , Those pesky steam punk lamp makers , They have destroyed many a machine . I hope there is a special place in hell for them . @Mulesaw When your get a chance also post some photos of the bobbin and bobbin casing . I have some parts that might be for your sole stitcher . I got a random box of parts that are from an outsole stitcher but not sure what machine . Definitely not a landis or a british Victor so might be for a pederson

Good score ,i am envious . The 309 is a blake or mckay stitcher . Pretty reliable. The second is an out-sole stitcher . a predecessor of the rapid K. The rapid K was made by Pederson and branded as a Sutton in the US. I hope they don't need parts because they don't exist any more and the only source is to find an old machine . If you can show me a detailed photo of the outsole stitcher needles ,i think i have some .

@Jose4616 16oz leather is very thick ,too thick for shoes and boots .If you choose to proceed there are 2 things you should consider . 1 is to skive your overlaps and do 3 runs of stitching . 2. Or wet the leather before stitching . If you don't skive the overlaps will be felt by the wearer and cause discomfort at the best or make the boots unwearable at worse . Then there is the lining to consider . As a shoe maker ,the thickest leather i would ever use is 8oz with the same thickness if reinforcing the the toe or heel. I have never seen or know of boots made with 16 oz . Nicks boots might come close but i doubt it . Having said that a roller foot post bed is my machine of choice for upper sewing . However a walking foot machine might be better suited to your needs You may also want to give some thought to post height There is a machine that i saw about a year ago that had a side mount motor with a digital screen read out where you make your adjustments. This particular machine had a feature for reverse where it will track into the same holes for locking off the ends of the stitch . From memory it was about 5 grand Australian dollars so might be just over 3 grand US . Take your time and learn about the nuances of different machines before spending the big bucks .

looks like a job for a curved shoe makers awl and 2.5 inch curved needle . I would use veg tan leather wet molded over where you want to put it trim it down to size . Pre awl the patch. Place it back on the saddle with some glue (temporary ) awl the saddle using the same holes as the patch using the patch as a template . very loosley stitch the patch About 2-3 inches loose .Once you have gone around once . you can pull the stitching tight and conceal most of it . I use a similar technique of loose stitch when making or repairing soccer and footballs . I saw a greek cobbler making soccer ball 40 years ago . and after inserting the bladder he loose stitch the last panel in . I am not sure if thats the way they are made around the world but it worked for him and has worked for me . Another method is to wet mold veg tan leather over the area as well as you can and then use cobblers nails . You can even hide the nails by using the blind stitch trick where the edges if leather is sliced about 1/2 inch deep through the side folded back , nailed then glued back over . I am a shoe maker so i think like a shoe maker . I am sure a saddler would have his method . I am actually interested in how a saddler would tackle it . I will keep watching this thread and see what evolves .