Tastech

looks like fish to me , what species ? i have no idea

Reading these comments and the dilemma of the start up speed makes me appreciate the machines i have on treadles . mind you treadles are not created equal .Not essentially true but you need the right size fly wheel to suit the machine and your purpose . My favorite combo is my Pfaff post bed with a 29K patcher treadle which has been modified into a flat bed . The secret is the smaller diameter flywheel . 12 inches .. Nice and slow for doing the curves of shoe uppers . Above all they are reliable , 100 years old and still going . You also need the right chair /stool to minimize ass and hip cramps .

Very informative video Uwe . Is that a 45mm pulley on the motor ? That Adler runs at a perfect speed for doing shoe repairs You say you have 4 motors . The next time you fit one of the motors could you please make a video of how you installed the needle positioner .

Webicons. I am a shoe maker as are you . Although i have various machines the one i use for just about all shoe uppers is a roller foot post bed machine . The advantages are to many to name but mainly accessibility it also does curves really well where as a walking foot does not . When it comes to desired features i would go for a modern one with a servo motor that may have to have a reduction wheel fitted , Must have reverse and knee lift not a foot lift . Must be compatible with the fitting of a side guide ( the drop down roller wheel type ). The size needle i use is a size 16 with a T70 (# 30) thread . As for models .well they all seem to be clones of older machines with a couple of extra features . Go for quality rather than price . Consider buying local from someone who knows the machine and has the skill to service it as well . You may get lucky and find a second hand machine with all the feature you need close by . The seiko model machine you mention is to me a bag machine not really a shoe upper machine . The compound walking foot tends to leave footprints on the leather where a roller foot leaves minimum track marks that can be ironed out anyway . Maybe watch a few YOUTUBE videos of people using a post bead machine and it will dawn on you that it will do those tricky closing maneuvers that can cause you grief some times . There is still technique involved and you have to follow an order of process as in you do certain things in a particular order . You soon enough work it out and. then it becomes a no brainer . Cowboy might be able to better recommend a machine to suit you as he is in the machine game and in your neck of the woods.

I have never seen a 31K47 however the walking foot is an attachment to the 31K basic body There are a few variations of the 31K main body .I have a 31K20 and 2 31K48's . The 31K20 is just a run of the mill dog feed straight stitcher . The 31K20 is a roller foot with a roller feed . Looking at the photos of your walking foot mechanism it looks familiar to me . I am pretty sure the walking foot mechanism is the same as the singer 132K6 . Its a beast of a machine that can sew some hardcore materials . As with a lot of singer industrial 's the parts are interchangeable with other models or in other words they share common parts . Find a manual to a 132K6 and compare the part numbers to your machine and see what they have in common . The 31K47 is was not a common machine but the 132K6 was and there are still plenty around . Spare New spare parts might be a problem so are second hand parts from a dead machine , The K6 was built so tough they just dont die . I have waited 10 years to source a part so be patient . I agree with Cowboy bob . A high step is not a bad thing . If its working then just leave it . It wont be the first machine or last machine you own . But will be a niche machine as what it was intended to be

Who did you order the 120 mm pulley from? Hey Kgg .I got the pulleys on Ebay here is the link https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/314035306394?var=612710007766 Now in hindsight i should have got a few more in various sizes just in case . I have been using poly belts instead of fixed size V belts . They are a red color ,they come in various diameters can can be cut and joined with a little insert able 2 way plug . Pretty cheap at $3-4 per meter . They stick well to the pulleys therefore no slip and have a fair bit of spring in them so things are always tight . I measure the length i need and deduct 10%.and cut it at that . So far so good . I don't do astronomical speeds or use the machines for a very long time .However if i was working a machine in a sweat shop i would go the best belt i could get .

That is so cool. I love it . Thanks KGG dikman . I ordered the parts for 1 reducer last night after reading this thread . I have 12 machines with 5 different table variations . I have a plan in mind to make a "universal" type but i might opt for maybe 3 different varieties . I want to make them aesthetically pleasing as well as functional. I will road test the first one to make sure i have the pulley combination correct to suit the machine and base the others on that I am starting off with a 45mm and a 120mm pulley combo with my motor at 100 rpm i would be somewhere in the less than one stitch per second range which is ideal for wingtips and brogue stitching on shoe uppers .

Chisel , They are the videos i was referring to . I now realize that the new servo motors are of a different type and this modification is not applicable . I guess the only option is to reduce the motor pulley size or fit a speed reduction pulley . In relation to speed reduction pulleys . Why are they so expensive . ? There is nothing to them really .By the time i get one sent to Australia i am looking at over 300 bucks . Twice the cost of a servo motor . I need about 5 of them .As i am also a mechanical engineer i might just make up my own using off the shelf components and maybe just a little machining. I think i can do it for under 100 bucks a piece . The way i see it i will need 2 pulley wheels of different sizes , shaft to suit .( might need machining ) 2 bearings and the bearing housings , some grub screws and maybe 2 hours .

I remember watching a youtube video where this guy worked out how to make a servo motor variable speed without a reduction wheel . From memory he used a specific motor which i believe was a consew brand . What he did was quite genius in that the tweek was counter intuitive and used a simple piece of paper . The basic principle of what he did was fooling the machine . The motor speed is activated with a beam of light . When the light beam is broken the motor activates . The way it is on a standard motor is a piece of metal cuts the beam and it activates the motor . What the guy did was to either replace or extend the metal with a simple piece of copy paper . For some reason the paper cutting the beam makes the motor start of slow like the accelerator on a car . I have made a half arsed effort to find the video over the last couple of weeks but i would like to do it to mine so i will have a good search and if i find it i will post it . In the meantime if anyone else finds the video please post it as i am sure 50% of us will find it handy .

I am pretty sure i saw some on aliexpress but can't find them because i don't remember what they call them However i did find these on Etsy not cheap but made in Germany. have a good look at them and i am sure you could make something functional a lot cheaper they are a simple device https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1209759850/clamp-for-upper-crimping-crimp-screw?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=shoe+maker+clamp&ref=sr_gallery-1-18&sts=1&referrer_page_guid=f6856ef47c0.979b900b7b87c285dae2.00&organic_search_click=1

I have been seeing some very nice singer glove making machines on ebay and etsy lately. They seem to all be in England . They are beautiful machines and relatively pricey .However if you can make money from them then is an investment and not a liability . Here's the link https://www.etsy.com/au/listing/1209196984/singer-91k5-post-extra-small-post-bed?ga_order=most_relevant&ga_search_type=all&ga_view_type=gallery&ga_search_query=singer+sewing+machine&ref=sr_gallery-3-5&referrer_page_guid=8704821a-3ea7-4f98-ab4a-5cf46da7c7db&organic_search_click=1

Necessity is the mother of all invention . Growing up with a tight arse old man ,If you wanted something you either saved up to buy it or you stole it . To save up was a lot of work for a kid and it taught me to think laterally ,be creative ,to believe in myself and just have a go . Once i got something i looked after it well . In the process you learn a few things and i think it shapes your thought process in the long term . I am sure just about everyone on this forum can relate . This is why we make things after all . The idea is conceived in the mind then broken down into components . The process becomes apparent and you have to do what you have to do with whatever means you have to make it happen . From fixing my own push bike to working odd jobs as a kid to doing my own mechanical repairs on my first car i learned things along the way . As i mentioned that my old man was a tight arse , I did not own a new pair of shoes till i was 16 . hand me down shoes , hand me down clothes , hand me down toys ,you name it . My first pair of shoes i had made for me in a style i designed . I paid for them by selling newspapers on a street corner after school . My second new pair of shoes i made myself under the instruction of the old guy who made me my first pair . Because i was footwear challenged as a kid i was attracted to the trade . With making shoes there is a lot of machinery that tends to break down and in my part of the world no one to fix them . So i would have a look ,find the problem and come up with a plan. The hardest part is finding parts . I love an old machine and can appreciative the work it has done and the money it has made over the years . I would not go as far as to say they have a soul but there is an essence to them . From the design and function to the people who made it to the people who use it . Keep in mind these machines were conceived with a thought , drawn on paper with a slide rule and pen . The measurements were calculated in someones brain and written down. The drawings presented to a foundry and machinist and everything was done by hand and brain .No CNC machining and robotics back then . When i see i tired old machine it gets into my head . I can see what it was , what it now is and what i can make it become . The machine possesses me and if i don't know what to do, the machine reveals its secrets and what needs to be done soon becomes apparent . The machine wants to be resurrected and i have no say in it . I am just the hands and the wallet that makes it happen .Along the journey you learn things about the machine and about yourself . The end result is very satisfying but what you always remember is the journey. Whether its a sewing machine , a motorbike ,a car or what ever . I try to apply every skill i have and then some . I like beautiful things so i try to make things beautiful ,not for anyone else but for me . Some how the machine finds its way to me and together we go on the journey . Its the state of mind i get into that is like a meditation and as a result is soul redeeming . Or maybe i just have a mental illness . LOL Reading what i just wrote i got a little philosophic there but i am not deleting . In short do what you love and love what you do .

My 10 cents worth . I have been pondering the servo motor versus the clutch motor for a couple of years now . I finally took the small plunge and got a servo motor . It took me all of 2 mins to realize i should have got one years ago . The clutch motor goes way too fast and even feathering the pedal it can still get away on me if i am not concentrating. I still prefer a treadle machine for detailed shoe upper work ( yes i am old school ) but my hip gets a bit crampy these days ,Actually it always did . I have 12 machines and i am going to replace 6 of them with servo motors because i am impressed with their variable speed and high torque . Your machine looks a bit tired and is definitely an occupational health and safety hazard with all those cables hanging down . By all means get the servo motor but i don't think the foot lift would be an issue unless you are doing a lot of production work Just use the hand lever on the back till you need a foot lift . keep the air lift fitting on there just in case you ever need it . I have an Adler 69 that has a chain to pedal lift , I think your machine might have the same set up . Have a look underneath and see if you can do it that way . My prediction is you will use the machine till you are confident in your ability then look into getting a better one with all the bells and whistles therefore relegating the current machine as a spare . I would not invest to much money into it but only some time to clean it up and making it functional and presentable . The machine is bullet proof but loves a good oiling .

Hey Glen. Yes its called a hammer tone finish . There is a hardware store type enamel but it is not as nice as the powder coat . The hardware store enamel has a bigger color range but lacks the depth or texture of the powder coat . Brush painting the enamel is more effective than spray painting though . If you are aware of what you are looking at you will notice quite a lot of machinery is painted in hammer -tone. I love the stuff especially on cast iron or metal that has flaws . There is also another similar type paint that is called "ripple effect" its usually available in auto shops but has a limited color range . The ripple is in a spray can and goes on like a normal paint it starts to ripple as it dries . Shake the can well for a long time or it may not ripple consistently as i found out once . I will attach a photo of the ripple effect so you can get the jist of it . Singer did a 29k71 in black ripple effect back in the 50's . You will see it on the rocker covers on engines built around the 60's-70's. I have only ever seen it in black . I just consulted my color chart and the Hammer tone silver/black is officially called Dulux " surreal effect" Aztec silver. There is an equivalent made by Interpon ( which is the one i had done on the frame ) called "interpon ripple Hammer mystique " If you have a powder coater near by go and grab some swatches , you will be inspired for sure .

Thats a nice color , Really nice . I see the machine like this . Main body and rocker arm in the bike color , Balance wheel and hand wheel in black . Treadle frame in black with the singer logo in the body color maybe even the belt wheel in body color . All the knobs , screws and shafts and cover plates in high polish metal . The make or break is balanced proportions . Too much of one thing is boring . What makes the bike attractive is the balance of color not the color itself . The treadle frame has it own problems with color as well because it is cast iron made in a mold it has flaws that cant be ground out and they will always catch your eye and annoy the crap out of you . Therefore i suggest a powder coated hammer tone which makes the flaws invisible . The frame needs a bit of grinder work to smooth out some burrs but not really that much . Break down the frame , get it sand blasted and under coated then hammer tone black . I have attached a photo of a frame i did which is hammer toned in a black/silver . It should be available in your neck of the woods .I believe it is a dulux color . the main body of the machine will also need some body filler to smooth out the casting flaws . That is easily done by yourself To show you what i mean about color balance i will post another photo of the aqua machine in full aqua , compare it to one of my previous photos and which looks so much sexier Chroming the parts would be expensive and over kill . Follow my acid tips and go the polishing process . I can explain the process and the materials you need on a later post . Anything you learn or have to spend would always come in handy for moto-bike restoration or detailing anyway so think of it as an investment . Don't worry if you balls things up , think of it as a practice machine for the next one that comes along . There will be another .lol You don't find the machines but they seem to find you . You are then obliged to the sewing machine gods to restore the machine or you will be forever tormented . Just one of those things .lol That poor old machine was just screaming out "Please love me ". looks like a few generations of spiders have been calling it home for quite a few years . Where did you find it ? whats the back story ? A good back story is just as good as the machine so always ask .

Hey Joe ,Do you have a color in mind? I love the old school engineering and quality of workmanship of these old machine yet i am not a traditionalist when it comes to color . The way i see it is that there are 1000,s of standard black machines in the world and will be for a long time so when it comes to a new paint job i try to think outside the square and choose a color to please myself . In many cases i work backwards and discover a color i like then find a machine to paint in that color. I have already chosen a color for my next machine but do not have the machine yet . The color is a metallic orange called burnt orange . I have seen a few pick up trucks with this color and i love it . If your machine is going to be just a looker then go all the way or 'Fully Sick' as we say in Australia Consider automotive paints and their vast palate of colors . I am excited for you because i know it will give you great satisfaction when the job is done . The philosophy of my restorations is i want the person looking at the machine to get the urge to lick it because it looks so good .lol I have sent you a Private message with my email and some instruction so check you messages Cheers Tas Some 100 year old shoe makers hammers restored from rusty junk to back at working making shoes They are both George barnsley's

From left to right .A douveknakel , a doohickey and a whatchamacallit

Second machine weighs about 15KGS The second machine as it is would be worth no more than $300 . But that depends on how sloppy the gears are . Going by the looks of it i would say there is about $1000 in restoration to get it looking better than new and cutting smooth with a new blade . I have always hated the esto green colour there is just something about it that haunts me The esto machines are based on the landis machines and the blades are interchangeable http://landisaustralia.com.au/aus-en/parts-accessories/knifes-plastic-leather-cutter.html

Joe , No such thing as stupid questions only stupid people ,lol I found some water decals on Etsy from a small business in Brisbane Australia ,However they don't really stick that well to hammer tone powder coat . I found a retired sign writer who took a photo of the originals and some measurements and cut me some beautiful decals in various colors and sizes . Even the sticker type don't really like the hammer tone . The bronze machine was powder coated , Although i love the color i would probably not powder coat again for a few reasons . You have to mask up really well and the special tape is expensive . There is something about cast iron that makes the coat pop with pinholes . I think the cast iron is porous and the baking process expands the cavities and you can get a funny effect in some places . I knew this so opted for a hammer tone to try and mask these flaws . I can live with what i got but would not do it again . The treadle frame on the other hand come out fine . I have found that a good quality engine enamel and primer are the best combination . You may also nee to do some fine bog work which is not compatible with powder coating . My standard process is as follows . Spray the machine with penetrating oil to make disassembly easy Degrease all parts Remove any loose rust and crap with a wire brush or wire wheel in a grinder paint strip the main body and all painted parts In a tub large enough mix 1 part phosphoric acid with 10 parts water . you can go stronger . The acid will only dissolve the rust and only mildly etch the metal . Phosphoric acid sound dangerous and hard to get . It will burn the skin so wear gloves and eye protection and have a plan in case you spill some on you .Just be careful . Its is available from cleaning chemical suppliers or wholesalers and is about $80 a gallon . Mix a large tub for the main body and wheel and a smaller bucket for all the other bits and screws . 12- 24 hours is what it takes . once done wash off the acid with a hose and some soapy water and let dry . The metal will oxidize very quickly so act fast and go over everything with a wire cup wheel on a grinder and it will shine nice .this also buys you some time ti get the painting done. Paint all the parts you are going to pain and while the paint is curing you can work on polishing the bits . To polish the bits is an art but also just a basic step by step process . for this you need a bench grinder with a stainless wire wheel on one end and a woven polishing wheel on the other . you will also need a grey cutting compound . I also use a series of scotch brite belts and pads for the polishing of the arm and screw heads . You may or may not have these but are worth getting even for your motorbike work . The art is knowing where and how to hold the pieces when polishing because the can go flying and end up down the street . I use a cordless drill for the screw heads and vice grips for other parts . The parts can get a bit hot to the touch so wear gloves . Take photos over every part before you disassemble and label the parts so you don't have grief later. Take special note of the positioning of the gear box and how the bottom positioning relates to the bobbin carriage above it . Parts The cammed balance wheel can be retro fitted from a current machine or a 29k 71,72,73 The other parts can also be retro fitted from later machines also ,Search Ebay singer 29K and some parts will come up . If the machine is missing parts and not working then it is not of much value but only a donor machine for parts , So before you invest time and money make sure you are onto a winner . If you decide not to proceed with the restoration and decide to sell it for parts i want first dibs on the bobbin gear box and rake . I have a restored machine that needs the main bobbin gear and then its back on the road for another 100 years Attached is a 29k ready for painting I hope i got my sizing right or Wizcrafts the pixel nazi will be after me .lol

Hey Joe , I am sorry to inform you that parts are no longer available for the 51 and have not been for well over 60 years . However a lot of parts are interchangeable with the 29K73. The parts that will cause you sleepless nights are the bottom end where the bobbin goes in . There are 3 small gears and a rake that are hard to find but you can rob them from a donor machine. I posted a few photos of some restoration machines that i have done but i cant remember on which post so i will re load them here for you . Before and after . Having restored 6 29k's I have learned a few things . Stripping them down and reassembling them is not really that hard but you do need a few crucial tools . To remove the pins use a correct size punch and to remove the main balance wheel use a pulley remover . Take good photos of everything for reference especially the bottom end bobbin section and the alignment of the bobbin rotation in relation to the needle and rake . when you disassemble a section put the parts into a ziplock bag and label them . There really is no need to remove the main shaft and the cam gear inside the head .My first restoration took 40 hours but i have got it down to 16. There are PDF manuals online but the diagrams are of bad quality however the parts are listed with their numbers . As long as the machine has all the parts then you are good . If all the machine needs is a clean up and you are satisfied with that then go for it . If you need help or advice let me know and i will do what i can for you . I take great satisfaction in resurrecting a dead machine . There is a video on you tube somewhere of a guy cleaning up a 51 from memory it is a 3 part video . I go a lot further than he does simply because i can and i suspect i might have a touch of OCD .lol Regards Tas

Thanks Kgg. I see you are into sewing machines as well and you have a 29k71 This one is for you . from this heap of rust to this beauty .Its a 29K53

Here is another one which needed more work as the base was cracked , so i made a new base and did the same trick with the shaft machining. Lucky i made a spare when i did the previous one . I pull everything down to the bare bones the clean and paint strip the parts . I soak every thig in an acid bath to remove the rust . I use a 20-1 water and phosphoric acid solution which only reacts with the rust . I leave it in the solution for 12-24 hours . Next is a wash and a wire wheel on the grinder to stop oxidization. I mechanically polish all the gears ,shafts and scews while i am waiting for the paint to dry . Whole process can take about 20 hours but i have got my system down to about 12 . I love doing them and gives me great satisfaction seeing what i started with and what i finished with . The aim is to get a write off and resurrect it so if works for another 70 or so years.

I had trouble uploading the photos because they were to big so i had to reduce the last one so it would send . I had quite a few attempts . I have the photos on my phone which i had to email to myself and grab them off the computer to post here . Is there an etiquette on how big or small my photos should be ?

Eh while i am here . a couple of photos of a Viln pederson skiver and trimmer .circa 1950 The round blade on the top was done and also no longer available. A Landis blade was the right diameter but had a different thread so would not work . The easiest solution was to machine a new shaft with the Landis thread. The thread is a left hand thread . The skiving blade is a stanley hand plane blade that i ground and sharpened to suit . It works like new and i use it everyday for shoe repairs

Thanks , when i restore i like them to look like a museum piece so it was intentional. The color is an engine enamel in spray can form . In Australia its called ford blue . Pre 1980's ford Australia pained their motors blue . I sometimes also refer to it as royal blue but that is incorrect . I like the engine enamels because they look good but they are also very tough and impervious to oils . I have quite a few restored machines from skivers to sewing machines . In another post i have some photos of restored singer 31K48 machines . search 31K48 and you will find them . My real love is restoring singer 29K patchers . If i find a thread on here i will post some photos or i might even start a new thread . Cheers TomE