Tastech

@SUP . Try getting the handles off the way i described . Iron in a vice and pull while jiggling the handle . The come off surprisingly easy . This is because over the years the have been heated and cooled and the only thing holding them in is old dried wax and some charcoal soot . As FredK said lemon juice will work slowly ,so will vinegar with a table spoon of baking soda . Even coca cola which contains phosphoric acid . Or get some rust converter from the hardware or auto shop and soak them in that . You don't need to buy a big bottle and you will find a use for what you don't use . While you are there grab some small wire brushes . they come in a 3 pack of nylon , stainless steel and brass for about 2-3 dollars . I often get asked where do i find these tools. My reply is " i don't find them .they find me " . I am sure everyone on this forum experienced this . I can be out looking to buy a cake and come back with some obscure tool that i found in a place that was totally unexpected. Before Xmas i was in a country town looking to buy some local honey and handmade soap for my wife . I came home with a Vihl Pederson 308 sole stitcher . for $100 , they go for 2 grand. Some times customers just drop off random things to me because their grandfather was a cobbler and they have had this tool in their shed for 50 years and had no idea what it was but want to give it a good home . In fact a random customer came into the shop yesterday and asked would i be interested in 2 singer industrial sewing machines . Free to a good home . He needs the space in his shed . Yeah why not . Despite what media tries to make you think .The world is a fascinating place . People can be extraordinarily kind and willing to share their time and knowledge to complete strangers for no reward . You have to be in the state on mind to give and to receive. That's what i love about this forum . Ask a question or need some help ,some one is willing to do so . when you are finished doing what you are going to do , Post the photo of the finished product so we can all enjoy the fruits of your labour.

@ Sup , I do what i do because i have the means to do and i enjoy the process and i like the finished product. If you don't have the tools and equipment to do it them just clean them up and oil the steel so they don't deteriorate and just admire them for their former past glory and place in the history of shoe making . Understand someone has spent countless hours with those tools in their hand and i believe that imparts a part of their soul in them . Don't paint the irons . Do a search on ebay for antique cobblers tools and you will see a lot come up. Some in very crappy condition and many in my view over priced . But they are collectible and sought after but no one really uses them any more . I have once to make a pair of shoes for myself using completely traditional methods and i enjoyed it . But with no reference on how to use them properly i am sure i got a lot of things wrong . But i just love old cobblers tools and try to save them when i can . The walls in my shop are full of old tools that i have collected and don't use but i just love having them around watching over me like angels . My customers are fascinated with them . I have only every had one guy come in who knew what everything was and its purpose . He was a 90 year old Hungarian guy . He told that he felt like he was amongst old friends when he saw them and spent about 2 hours studying every tool . I really get where he was coming from because i feel the same . Enjoy your tolls SUP and when you are ready pass them on to someone who is worthy .

That thread tension bracket looks like it was bent by using someones teeth or put in a vise and beaten over with a hammer . I wonder what they could do with 200 bucks or even 3 . Still cheap . The mechanical concept reminds me of an old werthiemer. I am not very familiar with either but they have some things in common. This old werthhiemer was going for $1200 And i passed it up because the seller would not budge $1 . I so out of spite i knocked it back . In hindsight it is a beautiful machine and worthy of a full restoration .

@ stampingdelight .Its called phosphoric acid. I noticed that most hardware store rust converters contain a high percentage of phosphoric acid. I had some laying around that i used for cleaning tile grout after tiling my bathroom and thought what can it hurt trying . It worked really well so now its all i use . Its much cheaper than rust converter . About $40 a gallon in Australia . I get it from a cleaning supplies wholesaler around the corner . They supply cleaning chemicals and product to commercial cleaners and detergents and stuff like that to restaurants . I used to be a stainless steel fabricator and noticed that phosphoric acid was in some of the weld cleaners i used . Its is also contained in stainless steel passivators which removes any iron on a freshly polished piece of stainless so it doesn't rust in a marine environment . One very important thing to be aware of is . Always wear gloves , simple nitrile gloves work fine and always protect your eyes . Phosphoric acid can absorb into your skin where it accumulates in your bones and makes them brittle . Like osteoporosis on steroids. So the safety sheets say . Use with caution .

Just wondering . Do these machines perform as crappy as they look ? Man where is the workmanship in those machines . Looks like it was made by a one armed and one eyed grandmother with an irritable bowel living in a dumpster .

I forgot to mention , I use acid to remove rust and any other crap that is on them . Below are some photos of what each step looks like . the first is a rusted hammer head . the second is the hammer head out of the acid and finished with a wire wheel on a bench grinder . The third is the hammer after it has been ground back , linished and mechanically polished . The grinding and polishing takes about 1.5 hours . Heel irons take about 20 mins Also a i found some picks of my last batch of irons i got . First one as i got them , second cleaned and linished irons and stripped and ready for painting handles . the finnished product are in my previous photos .

I was wondering what sort of tools your were talking about . So its heel and welt irons i see . The black on the metal is wax . Easy to get off with thinners , paint stripper or white spirit . But to by pass all that give them a once over with a wire wheel on a bench grinder . I am a shoe maker and i collect shoe irons . I don't use them much but i just like them. I also like them to look nice and shiny . There are thousands of them in the universe with patina but that,s not my thing . Shiny is . I have perfected my method to suit me . First put the iron end in a vice with not marking jaws and with a twisty pulling motion remove the iron from handle . I put the irons in a solution of phosphoric acid about 10 parts water to 1 acid . ( available from an cleaners wholesaler ) while the acid does its work .( about 2 hours ) strip the handles The way i do this is with a stanley knife . The knife is held just of 90 Deg and pull the blade towards you . Sort of like peeling a potato . rotate sightly after each pass and everything comes off easy . I then lightly sand with 240 grit . Some of the original patina remains but that is ok . When the irons are ready take them out of the acid using gloves and wash with water and soap using a course scourer . this will take the blackness off and prepare the surface for polishing . You will notice the irons oxidize very quickly so you have to work them the same day . You can either wire wheel them and leave them at that or go the full mirror polish . To mirror polish require some equipment and only very little skill . If you want to know how to do the mirror polish let me know . Because that can be fiddly often just linish them . I do the same to my cobbler hammer collection Keep in mind the irons are just that irons . They were heated over a spirit burner and used to melt wax into the heels and edges of shoes . They were never painted and never should be . To seal the surface i use Penetrol which i wipe on with a rag . It stops rust and dries clear . On the handles i give them 2 coats of a satin clear coat .

For sewing shoe and boot uppers a post bed machine is the way to go T70 thread is standard but T90 might be at the machines limit . Alternatively A singer patcher 29K 71 will do the job and more However the stitching will not always be strait unless you are very careful. And depending on what leather you use the walking foot may leave an imprint . If you are making boots for yourself and not for sale then a few imperfections add character. It takes years to learn to make flawless shoes and even the best machine in inexperienced hands is really a waste . But even a crappy machine can do a presentable job in the right hands . Sewing uppers is only a small portion of the overall task of making boots and shoes . Because it is done in the early stages of construction if you stuff it up all is not lost . You go back and start again . A singer 29K is a versatile machine and will always be in your arsenal no matter which direction you take . Your next machines will be more specific to do a particular task A flat bed machine is not for shoe uppers . You can do some parts but not others . Cylinder arms can work well but Roller foot post bed is best . Speed is critical the slower the better . Thats where a treadle 29K is a magic machine. Goes as slow as you like and can sew in any direction . Its more of a donkey than a thoroughbred Buts it is a handsome donkey . In conclusion try and get a singer 29k71 . Parts are still available and there are plenty around so they wont break the bank . Avoid models with numbers less than 71 because parts are unavailable . Alternatives are Adler and Claes.

With the stand you can do anything you like that you think looks good . Your frame is not the original pattern that was made when the machine was made . There are 3 versions, the one you have is the second generation which came out in the 1920's it is also the most common and in my view the best looking pattern . I will send you some photos of all 3 variations of my restored machines to give you a look at the differences . I think i have posted a few on this site somewhere before . I just got a new phone with a better camera so i will post some more on this thread using better lighting . I restore 29k's to suit my aesthetics black is not my preferred color . The way i see it is there are thousands of black originals in various conditions in the world but not many like mine . They are fun to work on ,simple yet functional and not at all hard to use . Although some parts look identical from different variations of the machine they are not . When sourcing replacement parts always make sure part numbers are identical .The part numbers are stamped on the parts. But most of all be patient , very patient . I waited 10 years to find replacement gears for a 29K53 , then found 2 complete gear boxes in the same month . Go figure .

And then there are these . 8mm , assorted finishes and dirt cheap https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005561736842.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.1.5aac3oGZ3oGZTi&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.327270.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:da3111b2-0e64-492e-8115-e09a55a7b3bb,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238110%231995&pdp_npi=4%40dis!AUD!3.55!2.02!!!2.25!1.28!%402103011017134353955501997ee7cd!12000033551098195!rec!AU!3945930413!&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202404180316355972629836174016563233_0

Hey steve , have a look at these . A little closer to home as well . https://www.birdsall-leather.com.au/Y1279_dash_00/Leather-Staple-SS-pkt-100/pd.php

A few years ago i did a repair on a similar machine . I used a handle from an old meat grinder ( meat mincer) . I had to drill it to size and drill and tap a grub screw to lock it to the shaft. Over all it was quite easy . If i see an old meat grinder at a yard sale going for next to nothing i buy it just so i have a few handles as spare parts . Note , most meat grinders have a square hole in the handle so take a measurement of your shaft and make sure the round hole you have to drill is compatible. Also take a measurement of the overall length of the original handle and find one that is close .

Made in 1947. The first 2 numbers are the year of manufacture . If the serial number starts with the letters RF it means the machine has been refurbished .

FDC, I have a Landis K . Not as sexy as the 12 . I have to change the color of the threads from white to black and to brown regularly . I dread doing so . I have decided to buy another identical machine set up with a different color thread . The reason i want the same machine is simply for reference mainly . I want to Clean , restore and paint my original machine but it takes time . What i fear is that from the time i pull it all apart and put it back together i forget where and how things go . Its always the case That you forget to take the photo of a crucial placement and you have to work it out . With a second machine close to it i can always use it as a reference . The problems with these machines is that nobody really knows how to repair and service them anymore and the people that own them just don't know how to look after them . I remember about 40 years ago the people that owned and operated them were very possessive and temperamental about their machine . You would get abused if you stood to close to them and shanked if you ever touched them . LOL These days we call them the angry machine . You say a prayer and make sacrifice each time before you use them because one day they sew like a champion and the next it will chew you up and spit you out . It can be quite soul destroying . Ask any one who has one and they will either roll their eyes or you will notice an expression of shell shock on their face . No one who has ever operated one knows the feeling . One thing i have found with mine is that because i use waxed thread i don't have to heat up the pot . If i do everything goes to crap . I now use a 5W30W synthetic engine oil for lubrication and everything seems to run more smooth . For now at least . I have some Questions . How long did it take you .? Did you have to replace or make any parts for it ? Did you make any dumb mistakes and if so what were they so i can avoid them? What would you do differently ,knowing what you now know ? Any tips you might have from hindsight ? Keep us posted on your progress with it . No one really talks about this subject and i wish they did . For therapy reasons . LOL Tas

As a machine man i commend you . They are a complicated bitch to work on at the best of times and it appears you have done an excelled job . They take a bit of practice to learn how to use it well but i am sure you will sort it out . Congratulations on your new born .

Hey Steve. Because i spend so much time on the restorations i could never expect to sell them at i price that covers my time and expenses. I can spend between 10 and 20 hours on restoration plus the initial cost of the machine ,I am already about 2 grand in . They would reasonably sell for 1 grand but i am reluctant to take the hit . Send me a PM with your email and if i see one that i think is a bargain i well send you the details . There was one on EBAY from Tassie a few weeks ago that was going for $450 but i think its gone . It looked like it needed a new blade but the vilh perderson blade is no longer available . I can retro fit a Landis blade but need the machine in my possession to do it because i have to machine a new shaft and make some mods to the housing . Look for an ESTO or Landis because blades are available still . What specifically do you want the machine for ? This is the tassie one . It says ended not sold so he might still have it https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/204480802714 They can be hard to find in Australia but they do turn up . A lot of old cobblers have retired and died so these things are sitting in someones shed somewhere , you just have to find it . Sellers fall into 2 categories they are either asking a ridiculous price for a heap of crap or they go dirt cheap. I know of a RODI skiver ( not a cutter ) in Goulburn going for $50 but it needs a lot of work . It had a piece of fencing wire where a spring should be .lol. I didn't buy it a few weeks ago but i think i should have just in case i ever need parts . If its still there i might grab it and see what i can do . Regards Tas

I learned a long time ago that when it comes to sheds there is a fool proof formula to picking a size . what you think you will comfortably need and then double it

Match the leather color to the handle of the gun .As per photo above

Deboardp. Here is a link to the material i would recommend. Its a consistent thickness material called microcell. It is soft, flexible , easy to cut and glue and is relatively tough. It comes in multiple colours , multiple thicknesses and multiple tread patterns . Not that expensive either https://www.leffler.com.au/shop/shoecare-repair-orthopaedic/shoe-bag-repair/rubber-heeling-soling/rubber-soling-sheets/ You must have a shoe repair cobbler close by . They don't have to be high end , Even a retarded one will be able to show you some options . Cobblers are notoriously cranky buggers so go in there on the premise of getting some soles on sandals ,but you want to think about options . They will show you some different types . Make sure you feel them to gauge the material for softness . Below is a vibram tapered sole with the heel ready to go .(recommended) The other photo is various microcell . Your options are too numerous to list or show . Its all about what you want the sandals to look and feel like . You can also incorporate a layer of cork below the top layer which over time will mold to the contours of the wearers feet . All decent shoes have a cork layer under the innersole . If you want a seperate heel cut one out and glue it on top of the sole . Your sandals should be thus . leather upper sole (innersole ) ,cork midsole , And rubber or microcell or EVA bottom sole . Don't over do the leather thickness as this makes them to hard and uncomfortable . Go to a few shops and study the anatomy of a sandal all are different but you will see some thing you like and you can incorporate that feature in your design . https://www.ancient-greek-sandals.com/en/eur/mens-sandals Note the different soles on some of these sandals . Only women can wear flat plain leather sandals , Men need some contour and some taper. Be prepared to experiment , and don't be discouraged by failures .You learn valuable lessons . The greatest glory in living is not never falling ,but rising when we fall . Sorry for my long winded answers but i don't do things half assed . Balls deep or nothing .

deboardp , I am in Australia and we use different name products so links to products from my supplier would be of no use to you . Find a wholesaler of shoe repair materials in your area and source your materials from there . They will have a few different brands of high strength contact adhesive and various types suitable sole material of various thickness and hardness . same goes for heel material . You may have to buy a full sheet of the material , but if you are making a few pairs then it is economical do do so . Go to your local cobbler and ask some question and get them to show you various materials that they use . That way you will become familiar with what best suits you and you can then contact a wholesaler . One product that may interest you is the birkenstock EVA sole . Its 8mm thick and relatively soft yet quite tough . Its a good sole for sandals . The brand Vibram is also worth looking at . EVA or microcell is probably the best material for sandals because it is light weight and shock absorbing . There is also another type of EVA material that tapers from heel to toe . The heel is about 15mm and it tapers down to 8mm one the ball and toe . You have seen this before but probably never noticed it . You will see it on UGG boots mainly . Using the tapered sole eliminates the need for a separate heel . Brand is not important because different brands use the same material formula . If you are not sure which material is better for you, experiment with different types. Keep in mind that you will need 2 coats of adhesive on the leather because the first coat absorbs into the leather . By all means stitch the 2 layers of leather together but only glue the sole material on so it is easy to remove when a resole is required . If you choose a separate heel of harder material then a few small nails for extra security is good . Allow me to confess my dirty little secret . I wear crocs . There i said it . LOL Australia gets damn hot in summer and you don't wear proper shoes if you can avoid it . I like crocs because they are anatomically correct therefore comfortable , However i wear out the sole in a couple of years . New ones take a while to settle in so i resoled my old ones with EVA . Specifically the birkenstock pattern sole . I also do the same thing for my wife . She has shown her friends and now i get asked to do it for others . Even though the cost of a" birkencroc" conversion cost more that a new pair of crocs people are loving it . Go Figure . Keep in mind that Crocs are not frowned upon in Australia like they are in the US . Flipflops are king and Crocs are legendary . Birkenstocks was the preferred foot footwear of lesbians 20 years ago but now they have mainstream acceptance and i resole them frequently . Fun Fact : Because Australians wear proper shoes only half of the time our feet are one size wider than the rest of the world .

the sole rubber from cobblers comes pre roughed on the glue side to make the glue stick to it . rubber that has not been roughed can come unstuck

May i offer my advice . As a shoe maker and repairer i glue rubber to leather all day every day . Its no big deal . Any contact rubber cement will do the job but some are much better than others . I use and recommend Renia Colle de colonge .Apply on both surfaces and let dry for about 30-60 mins . With a heat gun or even a blow dryer heat the rubber piece then apply to the leather . Cut the rubber larger than the sandal and trim the rubber with a knife . At some point you are going to have to replace the sole so you heat the rubber again and with pincers remove the rubber and replace . Using epoxy is not an option because it is brittle and will crack even the flexi stuff and will do damage when trying to replace the sole , Also you have to keep the sandal in a press for 12-24 hours . Another option is to use a product called shoe goo . It is flexible but needs to be pressed as it is not a contact adhesive . I use shoe goo mainly for hiking boots especially the toe piece that returns upwards . To keep it in place i wrap a cut down bicycle tube around the shoe for a day or so . Either way contact adhesive is the best option . Yeah its a bit wiffy but so what only smells for about 10 mins and it wont kill you . I would also recommend you get proper sole rubber from a cobbler as it has a different composition than regular rubber and comes in an assortment of treads .

Unfortunately new parts are not available .However i can still buy new needles. You best way forward is to buy a "spare" machine and keep it for parts . I believe that Pederson and Junker parts are interchangeable . I recently found a Pederson machine and bought it without hesitation . I knew what it was but the seller either didn't or did not value it as much as i do . My intention was to restore it and put back to work in my shoe making trade . I love the simplicity of the Pederson ( about 40 parts ) compared to my Landis (500 ) parts . The missing parts i made to suit my needs and the machine started its first day on the job today . I am very impressed to say the least . I will still be on the look out for a spare machine with all the parts . attached are some photos .

I just bought A vintage George Barnsley bulldog pliers in excellent condition on E bay for $50 Australian dollars That's about 25 British pounds . I saw them on Etsy for $455 AUD , so it was a no brainer to fork out for them . I will most probably use them every day till i retire . My lucky day . On another site today i bought 17 George Barnsley edge irons in various patterns and a welt plough for $150 AUD . 2 super bargains in one day , that never happens, to me at least . Now i'm looking at you Joseph Dixon .

Uwe , I just love your think outside the box mentality (pun intended ) Now you have opened up a whole new can of worms for me . Can't wait till tomorrow morning so i can go down stairs and see what i got and what i can do . I'ts good timing too .I am just about to order 6 new servo motors for a shoemaker friend of mine to upgrade his machines and if compatible i might use the UWE method .