AlZilla

I quit trying to follow this lengthy back and forth but I'll suggest looking at Blackrock's Leather N' Rich rather than DIYing it: https://www.amazon.com/BLACKROCK-LEATHER-CLEANER-WITH-COND/dp/B008NB5QC0/ref=psdc_15718541_t1_B0846TH772 I don't know exactly what's in it and I'm not interested in defending it. It just works for me. YMMV.

It's not a 201, if he has it listed that way. It's a Class 15. Not that it makes any difference to all the foregoing comments. It's still heartache waiting to happen. Your work looks quite nice. Keep saving! EDIT: Actually there are 2 different machines pictured. The bottom is a 15. Maybe the top is a 66? Regardless, doesn't change anything.

No, that would be a @SeanRoss217 alert. Hopefully he sees this and gets on it before it's too late! I'm just a curious onlooker in this thread.

OK, thanks. I see what you're talking about with the slider plate and spring. Looks like it's missing a cover over the hook/bobbin. Always something to learn here.

Man, there's a lot to love about that holster. The small kerfuffle with the stitching fades to insignificance compared to the rest of the details. And a P series Ruger, to boot. One of my very favorite handguns of all time.

@Wizcrafts , I'm curious if you knew just by the model number or if there's something you see that told you it's a binder?

Very good solution. Nice work.

No telling, for me,anyway. Apparently a binding machine has a different feed type and maybe other things I don't know about. There is not a binder on your potential machine that I see. The binder on the linked machine is all those cylindrical things on the cylinder arm between the needle and the pillar. Evidently, the feed on a binding setup just goes back and forth without going up and down.

The G means it has a bigger hook and bobbin. Other than that, someone else will certainly chime in. EDIT: Here's a more modern 335 set up for binding. It says it'll handle up to 207 thread, so I like that. https://sunnysewingcenter.com/index.php/product/pfaff-335-single-needle-cylinder-arm-walking-foot-sewing-machine-for-binding/

@SeanRoss217 I wouldn't think not holding the button would have anything to do with it. Not holding the button doesn't do anything. Pushing it locks that bottom shaft to allow the stitch length to change. I don't know if something else would be seized and somebody took a pair of pliers to the knob. If you want to get @CowboyBob 's attention you need to do the trick of starting with the @ sign and picking his name from the drop down list.

I thought it looked like some strong arm tactics got involved. Thank you!

I've been watching this thread, curious about the answer myself. So, I wonder why the provided manual page looks like a solid rod as opposed to the OP's part that appears to have a slot in the center. It looked to me like someone had brute forced it and twisted the rod, causing that wasp waisted look. I thought maybe the distortion was keeping the original part from going back in.

I like the kind of detailed simplicity of that bag.

There are about 6.9 billion threads on here about servos and speed reducers. You can spend a couple days digesting them all or you can go here and order one of each. The belt you'll get at the local hardware store, it's a standard 3L belt.

Wow, very much worth the wait. The eagle just rocks! Would that also be correctly called a "Possiblles Bag"?

I sometimes tell people I could sew a fender on my car with the 441 clone. Maybe I'm not exaggerating!

There's a youtube video of Alexander Dyer using a Cobra class 26 and sewing canvas to plywood. I think it'll sew kydex.

I'm not Walter but the answer is ... it's an undershot wheel.

And maybe 5000 meters of it?

I missed this back when it was posted. The toe loop and skirt is my favorite design. The strap is exactly what it ought to be for that holster, though I admit to liking Marshall Will's design. He keeps the design and changes the functionality. A thumb snap on the inside is going to be difficult to close. I prefer a deeper drop so my arm doesn't have to bend much to grasp the gun. I made a couple for a Glock 21. Totally out of character for that weapon but carries very well. Very, very nice work!

Yeah, @dikman is right, there are tons of threads about speed reducers. This page https://tolindsewmach.com/motors.html has the 2 basic styles you see at the bottom of the page. You can also DIY it with parts from the hardware store, an axle of some kind, a couple of pulleys and pillow blocks. Only limited by your imagination. For me, the cost of the parts is high enough that I've just bought commercial ones.

Sorry, I just don't see any flaws. I really, really like the stamping.

Maybe I'm wrong, I assumed the stitch length lever also served as the reverse.