AlZilla

Interesting. I would have thought the Singer 111W series would be pretty comparable to the Consew 205's and 206's. Yet the 111W is nowhere on the chart. Maybe they're considered obsolete?

I think these are very, very close.: https://www.amazon.com/Bluemoona-100-Pcs-Leathercraft-connector/dp/B0719H615Y/ref=pd_bxgy_d_sccl_1/141-5165040-7656726?pd_rd_w=irXtr&content-id=amzn1.sym.2b132e63-5dcd-4ba1-be9f-9e044543d59f&pf_rd_p=2b132e63-5dcd-4ba1-be9f-9e044543d59f&pf_rd_r=B6ZZBB2WB44MS9PQXN26&pd_rd_wg=VVWdD&pd_rd_r=48aa5bb2-6032-42ae-8e83-fd8dd907f74c&pd_rd_i=B0719H615Y&th=1 There are 4 options and 1 of them is flat.

Search youtube. I remember seeing some real low tech ways to make lace. I seem to recall a razor blade mounted somehow and a circle of leather being cut spirally. Also a video or two about making round leather that involved rolling wet leather strips out. If you've ever seen a leather treadle belt for a sewing machine, that's what was being made. And second Chuck's suggestion above. The author is Bruce Grant, I also have a copy. You could spend years mastering all the techniques in that book.

Well, you're not getting much help here and I'm certainly not one of the resident experts. I suspect nobody is familiar with that motor. The specs look interesting, if it's a quality motor. Nobody seems willing to even list a price for it, but I do find a used one on ebay for $750! If I understand you correctly, you're not getting a range of speeds when you press the foot pedal. You are correct, there are a daunting number of electronic parameters on that thing and your problem could lie in there. But let me take a stab... All I can think of is to double check the adjustments for the control arm listed in the manual to be sure it has adequate travel (section 2.5, page 3, English section), then disconnect the Pitman Arm and see if you get a range of speeds just by working the control lever by hand. Maybe the Pitman Arm is out of spec or misadjusted. If not, you may just have a defective control unit - assuming there's not something buried in all those settings to make it a single speed motor. I could see that being desirable in an automatic sewing setup. Good luck with it. I'd be interested in the resolution.

Well, until the big dogs stop by and give real advice, the following thread is for a 111w machine, but I think it's close enough to yours that it should get you pointed in the right direction: Good luck with it. I dealt with a similar problem on one of my machines.

The Singer manual Constabulary dropped above says it'll sew a max of 3/16". I'd probably buy it if the price was real right, just because it's interesting. But it wouldn't be in the leatherworking rotation.

Walking Foot - One Needle. Max. speed 1600 spm. For lightweight work in imitation leather; upholstery. Automobile tops. Combined upper and needle feed. No under feed. From: https://ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/model-list/classes-1-99.html The 78-1 also says "For lightweight work in fabrics only." Between that and "No Underfeed" ... make sure this is the right machine for you. Needle feed and a walking foot should move the layers ok. Unless you're doing only garment weight leather, I just don't see this being useful for leatherwork. Plus that 250 volt thing bears investigation. Is it saying it HAS to be DC? Worst case, I guess you can throw a servo under it for $150 or $200US.

Is the back and the front one continuous piece? And the sides start out as sort of flaps that wrap around to the back? Maybe a picture of the other side would clarify the challenge. EDIT: "This is one piece" means the pattern is a single piece? Not that it's one of a given number you need to make?

WOW! ... Seems to cover it. Do you have a website? EDIT: OK, so a quick search turns up lots of stuff. A better question, is there a main (non facebook/instagram) website?

The video above shows a machine with a speed reducer. The thing we always see here is that Needle Positioners don't work with reducers. Seems like the seller would know what they're selling, but who knows?

I don't think you can build a PID for $35! I'm pretty sure I had at least twice that in the one I made. Here's George wiring up a 240V unit. He also has a 120V video:

The varying stitch length is the challenge for me. Practice, practice practice...

Very skilled stitch work. I recall you saying you used a Cobra Class 4 - it looks like at the beginning of your stitch line you must start with 2 or 3 stitches backtacking to the beginning? Both ends appear to be double sewn, if you started at the beginning, backtacked and then went forward again, you'd have a bulky triple stitch. Am I seeing it right?

Welcome back and God Bless you, too!

You must let one color dry before moving on to the next? I have a hard time waiting between steps on projects.

Looks like a lot of tedious work to get the colors and separation. Nice Job!

I've thought about it but never actually done it. To me, I just thought it'd be better than all that tedious hole punching!

How about installing the snaps and then cutting them out? Either individually or in bulk?

I don't see how die cutting is going to change the stretch when the snaps are installed. That sounds like a material problem to me. Mr. Customer may need to spec different leather.

Nice surprise. Looking forward to pics and a report. We're all living vicariously through you!

I have a 111W153 set up with 138. I have my eye out for something with reverse but in the meantime, it serves my needs.

I have both of those machines but have never sewn vinyl. I'd see no reason either one wouldn't do the job as long as the material to be sewn fits under the presser foot. Personally, among my particular machines, I'd use my 111W153 but the 151 should do as well in most cases. If you haven't read the post linked above (in post #2 of this thread), you really should. Finish it and you'll have a Masters Degree in leather sewing machines. As always, a new post about your specific question might get better replies than resurrecting a zombie thread. Welcome to the obsession!

The only way I'd try to ship a heavy machine like that is palletized via an LTL carrier. I've seen way, entirely too many sewing machines damaged and destroyed by FedEx and their ilk. Even then, I wouldn't ship it fully assembled. I'd have that head on its side,strapped like hell and probably build extra supports to keep it in place. Break the table down as much as necessary and give it the same treatment. Then a half mile of shrink wrap around it until it looked like a giant plastic blob. And the selling price would reflect the amount of work it would take. In truth, I probably wouldn't even try to ship it - I'd do a full court press of local classifieds, ads here, on ebay, craigslist and anywhere I could find, specifying local pickup. Then just be prepared to wait until the right buyer came along. Much better if they pay you in cash, load it themselves and drive off into the sunset than worrying about freight damage. Good luck with the sale!

I think we'll all be interested in a follow up report. $300 is about what a servo and speed reducer would run anyway.

Well, nice work getting that thing cleaned up. I would not have believed it could look that good. I was worried for you ... I can't answer the hand wheel question but it should just be a screw of some sort in the center. You'll get all kinds of advice about the servo motor. I can tell you my 111W machines work fine on inexpensive 550 watt motors I found on ebay. If I were using them all day, I'd buy high quality servos. But for my hobby level usage? They'll punch through as much vegtan leather as I can fit under the presser foot. You will probably want the speed reducer, basically a couple of pulleys to slow the machine down. Think of it as a torque multiplier. The belt will just be a trip to the auto parts store. If I recall correctly, it's a "3L" and then you'll need to get the length right. I think mine were in the 44-ish range, 3L44, maybe? Good luck with it!