AlZilla

Not that I expect to ever have one of those machines, but I'm curious what got you to the 5mm stitch length?

Aha! This led me down the rabbit trail of Singer Class 7's and the ISMACS page for class 1 to 99. Well worth a persue and includes the Class 9-1. 18 feet long and sews 1.5" thick. I see a whole new vista of Singer sewing machine collecting for me. Thanks everyone for indulging my curiosity.

Just curious ... are there any machines that sew a thicker stack then the 441/clones? I haven't seen any references to needle systems bigger than the 794s, either.

OK, how about this ... does the machine have an automatic thread trimmer and it's activated by the cable when the presser foot is lifted?

Thanks, guys. I also think that on a straightline stitch with 2 layers of leather, I could leave enough tail threads and just tie it off between layers the same as a saddle stitch. Just depends on the job and aesthetic required. It'll be fun learning.

That, I think, is the key. I live in a very rural area and even though shoe manufacturing once thrived here, used industrial machines are few and far between. When they do appear, they seem to command much more than I'd want to pay. How long would you have to look in your area for a better deal? Forget the money and enjoy the new machine.

Well, after months of on and off tinkering with my 111W153 and a lot of reading this forum, I finally have my machine stitching nicely with 138, top and bottom. Ignore the chicken tracks on the sample pieces, that was something else I'm working on. This was basically the first sewing machine I ever worked on to any extent. It took getting it turning freely, putting it in a different table, re-timing the bottom shaft, replacing the hook, hours of cleaning, adjusting, re-adjusting, you name it. Now, I need to master locking the stitch without reverse. And I think it's going to get treated to a servo motor. The little run of sample stitches took just a few nanoseconds ... Thank you to all the sewing experts who contribute their knowledge, expertise and experience so generously to this forum. I've been reading threads that go back 10 years that are still like a masters thesis on these old machines.

I apparently also have too much time on my hands because I went and looked at the linked diagram, specifically page 7 and 8 (the list of part names), I see that the cable is obviously connected to the lifting mechanism but I don't understand why. Look at the full diagram, there's a handle on the back of the machine (part #22) that appears to operate the release mechanism directly and a couple of rods (parts 5 & 13) that appear to connect directly to the knee lifter from the release mechanism. I also notice that the mystery cable doesn't have a number, part number or name associated with it. And it doesn't show the lower end of the cable connected to anything. Very odd. (EDIT) I think we have the shoe on the wrong foot. Maybe operating the lift/release mechanism causes that cable to perform some other function.

I would not spend money on that site at the moment. It's surely compromised, see the image below. It's a spam link inserted by someone.

You know, my gut reaction was that it fit in the spec of the machine, so why not? @kgg and @TomE make very good points and I'm glad of the education.

Well, good luck with it. I found it about a year ago and it seems to be at either a major turning point or end-of-life. It has quite a lot of information and it would be bad for the sewing machine community if it were lost. Apparently, someone had a database of W&G (if I recall right) serial numbers that disappeared when he passed away. I still can't envision how a US based person could run a UK based organization, but I hope you get it stabilized.

Impressive work and the photography isn't too shabby, either! Thanks for sharing.

Red Nichols recommends horsebutt strips. I keep looking for some to order but the link below only has thicker pieces for now. https://maverickleathercompany.com/product/russet-horsebutt-narrows/

Reading through this thread, I'm wondering if it might make sense to have 2 or 3 shuttle hooks, preset to different threads for these big machines?

Let me give you a shortcut to the usual rabbit trail of inadequate sewing machines. Get some kind of flatbed machine that will do up to V138 thread and one of the large harness stitchers for bigger stuff. Tons of choices in either category for you to research. It's where you're going to end up anyway ...

I'd agree and I think laying out the grid was a stroke of genius. I always have trouble staying symmetrical when stamping. I'll be incorporating grid lines going forward ...

That is a beautiful piece, for sure. Echo that the signature is a great touch. How great is it that you not only get to make things like that, but that someone PAYS you to do it?!? Lucky guy ...

Well, that would be worthwhile just to have on hand. Maybe I should re-visit it. Nice find.

Nah, the last time I looked at prints larger than 11x17, it was $50 or $75. Not that I want to make that particular holster, I was just curious in general.

Nice stuff, but how would a person go about printing them to be a usable pattern? Looks like they're enormous.

Nice job on the pics. Thanks for the effort. Why 5 complete thread stands and guides? It only sews 1 at a time. Looks like you're going to have fun with it.

Not to me. You can stamp w/o carving, but not the other way around. Carving takes more hand/eye coordination.

I'd be interested. Sending a PM.

OK, gun belts and western holsters are all I need to hear. Those I have an interest in making. Thank you!

I' appreciate some examples of projects that can be done on a longer arm machine like the CB4500 that can't be accomplished on the shorter arm machines. Unless I needed to sew a seam down the center of a piece more than 9" wide, why couldn't I just put all the width to the outside of the shorter arm machine? I don't expect to make any saddles. Thanks for any thoughts.