AlZilla

I'll second CKPSMS. They're on amazon or ebay. I've purchased quite a bit and always been satisfied.

Very nice. If it's in a shop I imagine it won't be inexpensive but I'd hope they will have gone through it and fixed any issues. In my part of the world, we find them anywhere from free to $30 or $40 from private sellers. I doubt a small shop would bother with one. My biggest complaint with any of those 70's and 80's machines is when they start slow and the motor grumbles and growls. It can be just a lack of lubrication or it can be the motor and/or foot controller. All fixable issues but take time and money. I would expect a machine from a shop to start smoothly and run easy.

Good point. Tandy has tons of leathercraft books for free on it's website. https://tandyleather.com/blogs/leathercraft-library

I very much like the 237. Straight stitch and zigzag. Some versions had a way to drop the feed dogs, some didn't. It sports pretty much the same guts as the Class 15 machines that have been sewing relentlessly for a hundred years, except they added the swing needle mechanics. When you say #45 thread, I assume you mean Tex 45, well in the range of a domestic machine. Another machine I like for that application is a Kenmore 158 or 385 series machine (though avoid the later, plastic bodied 385s). They have all metal running gear and you can find them in free arm configurations.

Nice. I don't seem to see a swivel knife. Not necessary unless you want to do carving, like a portrait or a floral pattern on a knife sheath or holster. Yep, understanding the many types of leather available is tough. Vegetable Tanned, or "veg tan" is the type you need to stamp and carve on. Chrome Tan is cheaper and available in an array of gaudy colors but is to be avoided for anything that will contact metal (as a knife sheath or holster). Then there's thickness. Learn the "ounce" system, would be my advice (for which you have not asked). An ounce of leather thickness is 1/64th of an inch. Wallet linings are often in the 2/3 ounce range. The outside can be up to maybe 4/5. Knife sheaths, I usually use 4/5. Many people go heavier. Gun Holsters typically run 8ish to 10 ounce. Belts can be 4/5 up to 12 or more depending on the application, sometimes 2 layers. If you ask 10 people for their thoughts on the last paragraph, you'll get a dozen different answers. For me, I keep 3 hides around, a 2/3 ounce, a 4/5 and something 8 to 10 or so. All undyed veg tan. And then there's a question of brands ... I'm lucky to have a very large leather/fur dealer close by and use whatever they have. Others are very loyal to a given brand (Wickett & Craig, Herman Oak, etc) and would sooner fight a Holy War than change. The Saddle and Tack people are a world unto themselves where types of leather are concerned. Looking forward to your progress.

@Bren2736 We probably need to know if these include shipping and what types of payment you accept. Don't forget we have a global reach so you probably should address international shipping or not.

You seem to be creating a niche. Not every newbie with an Amazon starter kit is going to be doing this but I don't think it's a big enough market for some Chinese factory to spit out 5,000 before lunch tomorrow. Plus, doing custom bespoke orders for someone's favorite book. You're on to something.

If you're sewing a few stitches, reversing and then sewing forward again, you're running over the same stitches 3 times. That is going to be messy. Plus the needle hole isn't going to accommodate 3 threads. On my big 441 clone, I start a few stitches from the beginning, reverse 3 holes and then stitch forward again. This gives me 2 locked stitches with 2 threads each. You could try this or follow Hildebrands method, which is how we do it on machines without reverse. I think this is likely your problem. I'd double check that the machine likes that 207 thread. My 111Ws cap out at 138. How about they bobbin thread? What size are you using there?

We are going to need pictures. You need to be very precise in how you backstitch because this bigger thread we typically use looks messy quick. Definitely a quick picture of what you're calling "bad", please. .

I've got a 78-1 just because it was unusual, fairly close by and inexpensive. It's really just a run of the mill needle feed machine. And it uses an unusual needle, but it's available. It seems like there were some feet or attachments available for it, that were maybe it's schtick? Look for the parts lists for the singer versions. They might give you an idea. Later this evening I'll get to a real computer and see if I can find them again. EDIT: Attached is the publication I found. I don't know if those attachments are specific to the class 78 machines. But I'd like to find the full set in a box some time ... Singer 78 Beschreibung.pdf

Assuming that's the usual swivel knife and stamp treatment, it's a pretty deft hand on that 2/3. Did you apply the dye with brushes and maybe some kind of pick in the knife cuts on the leaves? I really need to make effort and up my dye game. Very inspiring work.

Thanks, BossLady!

Something doesn't sound right about that. Maybe @Johanna could look into it. I don't think there's a lifetime limit or anything like that.

Wow. Stunning work!

Very creative. No kind of copyright issues, since you're just rebinding an existing book? Similar to repainting a truck? Looks like a satisfying project.

That second video really doesn't have any sound that bothers me. Assuming the clacking sound is just the gears changing direction. If you had to hop a tooth in one direction or another to get the hook timing right, then there's not much you can do about that. I suspect that sort of rushing sound when the gears are running will decrease, if it's a new noise. This opinion is worth less than you paid for it, but that's what it looks like from here.

You're in it, the Leather Sewing Machine sub forum. I'm seeing quite a few responses to your post.

@Beverly.deloach, I split you out into a new topic instead of tagging onto an old thread. Tweaked the title. Maybe we can get you some help. Welcome aboard!

Sad news indeed. I never had a dealings with him but it's obvious he was a true asset to the Leathercraft community. Condolences to his family and colleagues.

Yeah, this is the challenge. That 18-2 isn't one of the common machines that everyone's seen a hundred times. I'm hoping someone will check in who's done that job. Maybe @Wizcrafts knows something?

Ok, hopefully Guest Rob finds this post. I flipped it to the sewing machine sub forum where it should get some action. Later today I'll have time to come tell you a little unless someone else gets to it first. Let me strongly encourage you to join the forum as a regular member so you can get notices of things like this reply. Basically, you have a solid machine, assuming it's working well. The W series serial numbers are all 1940's production.

I do not have an answer. It looks like something happened to your upper tension as you navigated the turn. Looking at the top picture, did you sew clockwise or counterclockwise? If you lifted the presser foot when you turned, it might have been able to pull some slack since the tension discs would have released. That wouldn't explain the varying stitch length unless the needle was all the way out of the leather.

Very generous of you to share the print files. Almost sure to be of use to someone. Thank you!

I've been interested in these motors for a couple of years but this is the first actual report of one in the wild. Thanks for posting!

You need to have some patience. Nobody works here, it's just a collection of Leatherworking enthusiasts who check in when they have time. They answer these things out of a love of the craft and a desire to help. It's worth a lot more than you'll pay for it.